SKETCHES  OF  TRAVEL  IN  THE  OLD 
AND  NEW  WORLD 


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SKETCHES  OF  TRAVEL 


OLD  AND  NEW  WORLD 


BY 

G.  W.  W. 


CHARLESTON,  S.  C. 

WALKER,  EVANS  &  COGSWELL,  PRINTERS, 

Nos.  3  Broad  and  109  East  Bay  Streets. 

1-871. 


TO 

MY    BELOVED    WIFE 

AND 

PRECIOUS     CHILDREN, 

THIS    VOLUME 

IS 

AFFECTIONATELY    INSCRIBED. 


PREFACE. 


This  volume  is  intended  for  private  circulation. 
It  is  made  up,  as  the  reader  will  perceive,  of 
familiar  letters,  written,  for  the  most  part,  during 
foreign  travel,  and  published  originally  in  the 
Southern  Christian  Advocate  and  the  press  of  the 
City  of  Charleston. 

The  author  is  assured  that  the  perusal  of  these 
Letters,  as  they  originally  appeared,  gave  pleasure 
to  his  friends.  He  has  reason  to  hope  that  their 
collection  and  perpetuation  in  the  present  form, 
will  be  gratifying  to  many  beside  his  immediate 
family  circle. 

No  pretension  is  made  by  the  writer  to  artistic 
merit  in  point  of  style.  He  has  been  accustomed, 
however,  to  see  things  for  himself  in  his  travels, 
and  has  attempted  to  describe  faithfully,  and  in  as 
clear  a  manner  as  possible,  whatever  has  struck  his 
attention  or  awakened  interest  in  his  journeyings 
in  the  Old  and  New  World. 

He  owes  it  to  the  taste  and  skill  of  the  Printers, 
Messrs.  Walker,  Evans  &  Cogswell,  that  the 
Letters  appear  in  a  form  so  attractive. 


TOUR  OF  TWO  MONTHS 


IN    THE 


Queen  of  the  Antilles. 


CUBAN  CORRESPONDENCE. 


LETTER    FIRST 


Leaving  Home — The   Voyage — Key   West — First 
Impressions. 

Soon  after  we  parted,  my  dear  Mrs.  C,  at  20  George 
street,  accompanied  by  a  group  of  loving  friends,  I 
made  my  way  to  the  good  Steamship  Isabel.  I  was 
very  sad,  as  you  may  well  believe,  in  bidding  you  all 
farewell !  but  the  word  had  to  be  spoken.  My  physi- 
cian said  I  must  go  abroad.  I  felt  as  if  parting  for- 
ever from  the  shores  of  my  beloved  country,  to  wander, 
a  stranger  in  a  strange  land.  At  2  o'clock,  A.  M., 
we  sailed  for  the  "  Queen  of  the  Antilles," — the  fruit, 
as  Mr.  Calhoun  phrased  it,  forbidden  us  to  covet. 

After  leaving  Charleston,  we  had  a  rough  sea,  and 
cold,  boisterous  weather.  On  Friday  we  entered  the 
balmy  Gulf  Stream;  the  weather  became  clear  and 
mild,  the  deep,  blue  sea  was  comparatively  calm. 
Once  more  I  feel  like  living.  M'lle  Rachel,  the  great 
French  actress,  was  one  of  the  passengers,  and  had  the 
captain's  room  on  deck.  She  is  looking  quite  feeble 
and  low-spirited;  her  acting  in  this  world  will,  doubt- 
less, soon  be  at  an  end.  She  goes  to  Cuba,  probably, 
never  to  return.     She  is  now  in  the  prime  of  her  age. 


2  Cuban  Correspondence. 

Although  very  young  she  has  seen  much  of  this  world 
and  its  vanities.  It  is  possible  you  may  not  know  her 
history. 

When  a  little  girl,  she  was  picked  up  in  the  streets 
of  Paris,  half  dead  with  cold  and  hunger;  now  she 
is  crowned  with  gifts  from  kings  and  queens.  Few 
women  are  so  distinguished ;  but  she,  like  all  persons 
of  genius,  has  enemies,  and  the  tongue  of  slander  fol- 
lows her,  even  in  her  wanderings  for  health. 

The  French  troupe  gave  us  nightly  concerts,  which 
those  who  were  able  to  remain  on  deck  seemed 
greatly  to  enjoy. 

We  stopped  ten  hours  at  Key  West.  I  was  glad  to 
have  an  opportunity  of  once  more  standing  on  Ameri- 
can soil.  Before  reaching  this  point,  I  had  made  the 
acquaintance  of  several  of  our  fellow-passengers,  and 
we  strayed  through  this  tropical  town,  plucking  the 
beautiful  flowers  which  were  hanging  profusely  over 
the  side-walks.  Here,  for  the  first  time,  I  saw  the 
palm-like  cocoanut  tree,  laden  with  fruit. 

Key  West  is  on  a  small  Island,  seventy  miles  from 
the  main  land  of  Florida,  and  eighty  miles  from 
Havana.  It  has  a  population  of  three  thousand  souls. 
The  inhabitants  live  mainly  by  the  misfortunes  of 
others. 

It  is  said  to  be  an  ill  wind  that  blows  no  one  any 
good ;  and  so  think  these  wreckers,  who  are  always 
looking  out  for  vessels  in  distress.  Many  a  gallant 
ship,  which  hath  withstood  storm  after  storm,  has 
been  wrecked  on  the  dangerous  keys  and  reefs  of  the 
Florida  coast. 


Cuban  Correspondence.  3 

Fort  Taylor  commands  the  entrance  to  this  harbor. 
Government  has  been  ten  years  at  work  on  it,  and 
money  enough  has  already  been  expended  to  make 
it  a  strong  tower  of  defence.  It  is  constructed  of 
granite,  in  ten  feet  of  water,  some  four  hundred  yards 
from  the  shore,  and  is  designed  to  bear  an  armament 
of  three  hundred  guns.  Should  our  country,  unfortu- 
nately, ever  be  engaged  in  a  maritime  struggle,  this 
will  be  an  important  rendezvous  for  the  commerce  of 
the  Gulf  of  Mexico.  Through  this  Gulf  Stream,  a  large 
portion  of  the  cotton,  sugar  and  other  valuable  crops 
of  the  country  must  pass  in  seeking  a  market.  Hence 
the  importance  of  completing  these  works  at  once; 
and  they  should  be  defended  by  all  the  resources  of 
modern  military  science. 

We  are  now  nearing  Havana.  At  3  o'clock,  this 
morning,  I  went  on  deck  to  get  a  peep  at  old  Moro 
Castle.  As  this  great  wonder  of  the  Western  world 
burst  on  my  vision,  how  my  heart  throbbed!  I  felt 
thankful  to  a  kind  Providence  for  protecting  me  thus 
far  on  my  journey,  and  permitting  me  to  look  upon 
such  interesting  objects  as  were  spread  out  around  me. 

We  were  not  allowed  to  enter  the  harbor  of  Havana 
until  sunrise;  but  the  bright  moon  shone  as  it  can 
shine  only  in  this  tropical  region,  presenting  a  scene 
far  more  beautiful  than  I  had  ever  before  beheld.  I 
was  not  sorry  that  we  were  detained,  surrounded,  as 
we  were,  by  so  much  that  was  new  and  interesting 
to  me. 

The  Spanish  war-trumpet  could  be  heard,  and  the 
watchful  soldiers,  stationed  in  the  strong  fortifications 


4  Cuban  Correspondence. 

of  the   Cabanas,  were  to  be   seen  on  duty  guarding 
every  point. 

At  sunrise  the  signal  gun  from  Moro  was  fired,  and 
we  gladly  sailed  up  the  magnificent  harbor — large 
enough,  it  is  said,  to  hold  all  the  ships  of  Spain. 

We  passed  the  vessels  of  every  nation,  and  I  was 
proud  to  recognize  the  stars  and  stripes  of  my  own 
native  land. 

I  have  only  taken  a  bird's-eye  view  of  Havana,  and 
cannot  speak  of  things  positively;  but  the  people,  the 
houses,  the  gardens,  and  nearly  all  the  surroundings, 
are  very  different  from  what  we  are  accustomed  to 
look  upon  at  home;  and  the  climate  is  delightful  be- 
yond anything  that  I  had  imagined. 

I  am  inclined  to  think  the  Island  an  Eden,  with  all 
the  snakes  driven  out.     Of  this  I  am  not  sure,  but  will 
see ;  then  you  shall  hear  from  me  again. 
Ever  yours,  truly, 

G.  W.  W. 

Havana,  December  22d,  1855. 


LETTER     SECOND 


Sightseeing — The  Sabbath — Looking  for  a  Hotel — 
Invalids — Dominica. 

Since  my  last,  my  dear  Mrs.  C,  I  have  been  almost 
constantly  on  the  go,  sight-seeing  and  looking  up  the 
wonders  of  this  marvellous  city.  To-day  I  climbed 
one  of  the  high  hills  which  command  a  splendid  view 
of  Havana  and  the  surrounding  country.  Nothing  can 
exceed  the  beauty  here  presented  to  the  eye.  The 
magnificent  harbor,  filled  with  ships ;  Moro  Castle 
standing  proudly  on  an  opposite  hill ;  the  Cabanas, 
stretching  along,  forming  a  continuous  range  of  forti- 
fications ;  the  ancient-looking  walls,  houses,  churches, 
and  towers,  and  the  luxuriant  verdure  of  shrub  and 
tree  natural  to  this  tropical  region — these  are  a  few 
of  the  interesting  objects  which  present  themselves  to 
the  eye  almost  at  a  single  glance,  and  on  which  no 
eye  would  ever  tire  to  gaze.  Havana,  with  its  beauti- 
ful flowers,  and  groves  of  orange,  lemon,  banana  and 
palm  trees  ;  its  balmy,  delicious  climate  ;  with  its  rich 
fruits ;  its  bright  moonlight  nights — no  wonder  it  is 
considered  a  paradise  !  But  let  me  tell  you  that  this 
Eden  has  the  foot-prints  of  the  Old  Serpent  in  every 
nook  and  corner.  I  have  seen  them  ;  alas  !.  yes,  and 
under  many,  to  me,  at  once  new  and  painful  aspects. 
Here  the  Sabbath  morning  breaks  upon  you  with  the 
ringing  of  bells,  beat  of  drum,  firing  of  cannon,  and 
march  of  soldiers  in  every  direction. 


6  Cuban  Correspondence. 

Then  you  see  a  general  move  of  white  and  black, 
old  and  young,  rich  and  poor,  wending  their  way  to 
the  cathedral  and  different  Romish  places  of  worship. 
They  have  no  pews  or  seats,  as  with  us ;  those  who 
can  afford  it  sit  or  kneel  on  rich  rugs  and  carpets. 
The  darkest  son  of  Africa  prostrates  himself  by  the 
side  of  the  fine  lady,  in  pearls,  silks  and  satins.  Scat- 
tered through  the  church,  I  observed  a  number  of 
priests,  sitting  in  cane  chairs,  with  persons  kneeling 
on  each  side,  speaking  gently  into  their  ears,  confess- 
ing their  sins,  and  receiving  from  them  spiritual  ad- 
vice, consolation,  and  the  like.  There  seemed  to  be 
much  seriousness  among  the  worshippers.  From  the 
confessional  they  go  to  their  wordly  occupations  and 
amusements.  The  shops  are  opened,  buying  and  sell- 
ing is  carried  on ;  and  the  Sabbath  seems  to  be  the 
great  day  for  display  in  business  as  in  amusement. 

Last  evening  (Sunday)  I  wandered  alone  to  the 
Paseo  de  Isabel.  Here  was  one  general  turn  out  of 
volantcs,  filled  with  the  gay  and  fashionable  people  of 
the  city.  Near  this  garden  is  the  Tacon  Theatre,  into 
which  I  saw  crowding  hundreds  and  thousands  of 
Catholic  Christians  (?)  in  this  nineteenth  century,  on 
a  bright  and  lovely  Sabbath  evening.  I  thought  if 
this  was  the  road  to  Heaven,  we  poor  Methodists  cer- 
tainly were  not  journeying  in  it.  But  it  is  the  broad 
road  in  which  millions  of  our  fellow-beings  are  travel- 
ling, both  in  Papal  and  Protestant  countries.  It  is 
the  road  in  which  the  Old  Serpent  has  been  winding 
his  way,  scattering  mildew  and  poison,  since  Adam 
and   Eve  were   banished   from   the  Garden  of  Eden. 


Cuban  Correspondence.  7 

Why  send  Jenkins  and  Taylor  to  China,  when  "  the 
Greeks  are  at  our  very  doors  ! " 

It  is  said  that  "  distance  lends  enchantment  to  the 
view."  This  is  emphatically  true  of  Havana :  here  is 
a  rich  and  ancient  city,  with  a  population  of  two  hun- 
dred thousand,  and  not  a  decent  hotel  to  be  found  in 
it.  Men,  women  and  children,  of  all  colors,  grades 
and  conditions ;  horses,  mules,  cows,  dogs,  monkeys, 
baboons,  pigs,  fowls  and  lizards,  (to  say  nothing  of  the 
smaller  reptiles,)  all  inhabit  the  same  house,  and  sleep 
on  the  same  floors.  The  inhabitants  (in  the  hotels) 
laugh  and  grow  fat  on  dirt  and  filth. 

If  you  were  to  see  the  people  driving  the  cows  from 
door  to  door,  and  performing  the  operation  of  milk- 
ing, you  would  take  leave  of  butter  and  milk.  I  have 
not  touched  either.  Our  party  was  very  careful  to 
seek  a  "first-class  hotel."  We  were  directed  to  the 
Revere  House,  kept  by  Madame  Raymond.  Here  the 
charge  is  from  three  to  five  dollars  per  day,  accord- 
ing to  the  size  of  your  purse  and  the  color  of  your 
room-mate.  My  hostess  showed  me  a  chamber ;  but 
it  required  only  a  cursory  view  to  convince  me  that  I 
could  not  occupy  it.  Immediately  under  the  dining- 
room  was  a  stable  filled  with  horses  and  cattle.  This 
I  might  have  stood ;  but  in  front  of  me  was — the 
kitchen !  I  was  too  fresh  from  the  blue  sea  to  endure 
that  scene.  My  hostess,  (a  Louisiana  lady,  thor- 
oughly Cubanized,)  kindly  proposed  to  make  a  bed 
for  me  in  the  parlor. 

Our  party  held  a  council  of  war,  and  we  decided  to 
change  our  lodgings.     Two  of  us  spent  half  a  day  in 


8  Cuban  Correspondence. 

search  of  a  better  hotel;  but  after  a  dreary  and  dis- 
appointing quest,  found  we  were  '  in  snug  quarters, 
compared  to  other  houses. 

I  have  found  my  "Isabel"  acquaintances  pleasant*; 
and  as  some  of  them  have  been  here  before,  they  are 
of  great  assistance  to  me — Colonel  C.  and  his  wife, 
from  Ohio,  have  been  exceedingly  kind.  Mrs.  C.  is 
an  elegant  lady.  She  has  an  eye  to  my  room,  and 
takes  care  to  see  that  it  is  kept  clean  and  comfortable. 
She  is  now  arranging  to  make  our  tea  and  coffee ;  and 
says  if  I  get  sick  she  will  watch  over  me.  So,  you 
see,  wherever  I  go,  I  find  "guardian  angels." 

Havana  is  crowded  with  Americanos,  as  the  Cubans 
call  us,  but  they  come  here  mostly  from  the  Northern 
States,  to  avoid  the  bitter  cold  winters  of  that  region. 
The  hectic  flush,  quick  breathing,  hacking  cough,  and 
emaciated  appearance,  indicate  that  many  of  these 
persons  have  delayed  too  long  their  visit  to  this  mild 
and  genial  climate.  Those  who  are  feeble  had  better 
remain  at  their  own  homes,  where  they  can  receive 
the  delicate  attention  they  so  much  require,  and 
which  cannot  be  had  at  the  hotels  here.  In  my  hum- 
ble opinion  the  Island  of  Cuba  is  not  the  place  for  one 
far  gone  in  consumption.  The  wet  northers  that  fre- 
quently sweep  down  the  coast,  are  often  quite  too 
severe  for  a  delicate  constitution  to  bear. 

No  stranger  visits  Havana  without  paying  his  re- 
spects, and  his  dimes  too,  to  the  world-renowned 
Dominica.  Here  you  find  a  decoction  of  the  berry 
and  chocolate  that  would  make  a  Frenchman  laugh. 
I  have  seen  the  lars^e  marble  hall  crowded  with  visi- 


Cuban  Correspondence.  9 

tors — judging  from  the  babel  of  tongue,  they  are  from 
all  parts  of  the  globe.  The  Dominica  is  a  kind  of 
exchange,  where  strangers  meet,  eat,  drink  and  smoke. 
The  dense  smoke  arising  from  the  rich  Habana,  makes 
my  head  swim.  I  fear  I  shall  be  compelled  to  use 
La  Habana  in  self-defence.  Even  some  of  the  daugh- 
ters here  do  not  object  to  the  mild  cigaretta.  It 
amuses  me  to  see  the  smoke  curling  in  the  air  from 
their  delicate  coquettish  lips.  But  such  is  life  in  this 
Spanish  town — men  and  women  are  free  and  easy  in 
their  manners,  especially  the  married  ladies.  The 
habits  and  customs  of  the  people  are  so  very  different 
from  what  we  are  accustomed  to,  one  can  hardly 
realize  that  he  is  living  in  the  nineteenth  century, 
and  almost  within  sight  of  his  own  native  land. 

I  am  invited  to  spend  the  evening  in  a  native 
family,  and  will  have  an  opportunity  of  seeing  how 
they  live  in  their  homes.  Wishing  my  friends  a 
happy  new  year, 

I  remain  yours,  very  truly, 

G.  W.  W. 

Havana  y  December,  1855. 


LETTER    THIRD 


A  New  Years  Visit  to  Cerro — The  Cap  tain- General 's 
Garden — Ride  on  Horseback — Cuban  Ladies  and  their 
Amusements. 

Happy  new  year!  yes — I  have  been  very  happy, 
yet  sorrowful  too  to-day.  The  new  year  opened  bright, 
calm  and  lovely  as  a  May  morning.  I  set  out  early 
to  make  a  visit  to  Cerro  and  its  magnificent  gardens. 
"Never  before  did  my  eyes  behold  such  beauty,  gran- 
deur and  loveliness.  I  have  not  words  to  express 
what  I  saw  and  felt  in  this  earthly  paradise.  It  would 
not  be  difficult  for  one  to  imagine  himself  in  Fairy 
Land.  I  could  only  ejaculate — "O  Lord,  how  mani- 
fold are  thy  works :  in  wisdom  hast  thou  made  them 
all:  the  earth  is  full  of  thy  riches." 

I  wandered  through  the  private  and  public  gardens, 
in  groves  of  beautiful  trees,  flowers  and  fruit,  inhaling 
the  sweet,  balmy,  pure  air.  It  has  awakened  new  life, 
love  and  joy  in  my  soul:  my  heart  was  filled  with 
devout  gratitude  to  God  for  permitting  me  to  enjoy  so 
much. 

I  should  have  been  perfectly  happy  if  my  friends 
could  have  been  with  me,  and  shared  in  the  delightful 
scenes  presented  in  my  rambles.  On  Friday  Mrs.  C. 
accompanied  me  to  the  Captain-General's  garden,  the 
most  beautiful  in  the  city — the  gates  were  opened — 
the  water  let  into  the  fountains — a  guide  furnished  us, 


Cuban  Correspondence.  1 1 

and  we  were  loaded  with  beautiful  flowers.  I  also  pro- 
cured a  large  variety  of  seeds,  and  will  try  my  hand 
at  making  a  Cuban  flower  garden  when  I  return  to 
Charleston.  During  Christmas  holidays  the  rich  go 
to  their  estates  in  the  country,  and  the  plebeians  come 
to  the  city.  I  have  been  struck  with  the  sobriety  of 
the  inhabitants  of  Cuba.  -  Christmas  week  they  are  all 
free,  and  do  pretty  much  as  they  please;  and  yet  I  have 
not  seen  a  man  the  least  intoxicated.  I  wish  I  could 
say  as  much  for  Protestant  America.  On  a  recent 
visit  to  Washington  City,  I  saw  so  much  drinking  and 
drunkenness  that  it  made  me  blush  for  my  country- 
men. 

Mrs.  C.  and  I  took  a  ride  on  horseback  before  break- 
fast, to  avoid  the  hot  sun.  It  was  our  intention  to 
climb  the  picturesque  hills  which  lay  so  beautifully 
around  Havana,  and  get  a  view  of  the  harbor  and  sur- 
rounding country. 

You  may  not  be  aware  of  the  fact  that  the  city  is 
enclosed  by  a  high  wall,  entered  only  through  massive 
gates,  which  are  guarded  by  Spanish  soldiers.  One  of 
these  suddenly  brought  us  to  a  halt.  Our  entreaties 
to  permit  us  to  pass  were  unavailing.  We  returned 
to  the  hotel,  not  in  the  best  humor,  especially  as  we 
were  followed  through  the  streets  by  a  dozen  boys 
shouting,  "Americanos,  Americanos!''  When  one  is 
in  Rome,  I  suppose  he  should  obey  its  laws;  we  did 
so,  but  it  was  at  the  point  of  the  Spanish  bayonet. 
Cuban  ladies  seldom  ride  on  horseback;  hence  the  ex- 
citement over  my  friend  increased,  no  doubt,  in  con- 
sequence of  our  being  foreigners. 


12  Cuban  Correspondence. 

I  should  like  to  see  a  volante  filled,  as  it  often  is, 
with  three  black-eyed  Creole  girls,  driven  through 
King  street,  with  a  fantastically  mounted  African,  with 
scarlet  jacket  trimmed  in  gold,  wearing  high  jack 
boots  coming  about  his  knees,  with  silver  buckles,  and 
spurs  on  his  heels  more  than  an  inch  long.  I  imagine 
they  would  attract  even  more  attention  than  the  party 
who  were  screamed  at  so  this  morning. 

Cigar  smoking  is  universal  here.  Men  and  boys 
smoke — smoke — smoke.  I  have  seen  them  asleep  on 
the  sidewalk  with  cigars  in  their  mouths.  Having 
visited  nearly  all  the  places  of  special  interest  here,  I 
shall  go  into  the  country,  visiting  Guines,  Matanzas, 
Yumuri  Valley,  ("The  Valley  of  Death,"  of  which 
there  is  a  gloomy  legend,)  Cardenas,  Trinidad,  and  I 
know  not  yet  what  other  places.  I  am  on  the  broad 
ocean  without  anchor  or  rudder,  subject  to  the  tides 
and  winds — occasionally  I  see  breakers  ahead — but  I 
have  my  eye  fixed  on  the  good  star  of  Hope. 

Before  leaving  Havana,  I  must  speak  of  the  ladies. 
I  have  looked  in  vain  for  the  beautiful  Spanish  and 
Creole  women,  of  whom  we  hear  and  read  so  much. 
You  seldom  see  a  lady  walking  in  the  streets ;  their  vis- 
iting and  shopping,  is  done  in  the  volantes — they  drive 
in  front  of  the  stores,  and  the  silks  and  satins  are 
brought  out  to  them.  There  are  no  King  street  prom- 
enaders  here.  If  a  display  is  to  be  made,  it  is  in  the 
ugliest  of  all  carriages,  the  volante.  You  may  see  a  few 
elegantly  dressed  ladies  walking  in  the  Plaza  de  Armas. 
There  is  no  grace  or  elasticity  in  their  movements; 
they  drag  themselves  along  very  clumsily,  not  unlike 


Cuban  Correspondence,.  13 

the  Chinese.  The  majority  of  the  women  seem  to 
live  an  easy  life;  they  do  not  appear  to  work  either 
with  their  hands  or  heads.  I  have  watched  them  from 
early  morning  till  late  at  night,  and  coquetting  with 
their  fans  is  about  all  that  I  have  been  able  to  see 
them  doing.  Sitting  in  front  of  the  tall,  prison-barred 
windows,  with  chairs  arranged  to  catch  the  breeze, 
looking  at  every  passer  by,  is  a  favorite  occupation — 
seldom  do  you  see  them  reading.  A  characteristic 
anecdote  is  related  of  an  American  sailor,  who  saw 
several  ladies  looking  out  upon  the  street  through  their 
grated  parlor  windows,  supposing  them  to  be  prison- 
ers. He  told  them  to  keep  a  good  heart;  and  then, 
after  observing  that  he  had  been  in  limbo  himself,  he 
threw  them  a  silver  dollar,  to  the  great  amusement  of 
the  "prisoners,"  and  the  spectators  who  understood 
the  position  of  the  inmates.  Young  ladies  are  not 
permitted  to  be  alone  with  gentlemen.  I  do  not  know 
whether  this  is  due  to  a  want  of  gallantry  on  the  part 
of  the  men,  or  to  the  great  caution  of  prudent  mothers. 
You  occasionally  see  the  gentlemen  talking  to  them 
through  the  iron  bars.  Ladies  do  not  wear  bonnets 
as  with  us;  a  thin  veil  is  usually  thrown  over  the  head. 
I  have  been  to  church  daily  since  I  came  to  the  Island, 
and  I  have  not  yet  seen  a  lady  accompanied  to  the 
house  of  worship  by  her  husband.  It  may  not  be 
fashionable  for  them  to  do  so — or  I  may  say  custom- 
ary— for  never  was  there  a  people  under  the  sun  (the 
Chinese  excepted)  who  cling  with  a  stronger  grasp 
to  old  customs  than  the  inhabitants  of  Cuba.  They 
think  their  way  of  doing  things  is  right,  and  all  the 


14  Cuban  Correspondence. 

light  and  reason  you  can  bring  to  bear  upon  them 
would  not  convince  them  to  the  contrary.  They  are 
very  fond  of  amusements,  and  many  engage  in  those 
of  the  most  exciting  kind;  but  the  theatre  is  the 
ladies'  evening  home.  Most  of  them  play  at  cards, 
and  this  article  is  a  prominent  ornament  in  nearly 
every  parlor.  It  is  surprising  in  a  hot  climate  like  this, 
that  they  are  so  fond  of  the  dance,  but  dancing  is  a 
favorite  amusement  with  the  Cubans  of  all  classes. 

G.  W.  W. 
Havana,  January,  1856. 


LETTER    FOURTH 


Sight-seeing — Lost — A  Negro  Ball — Stinglcss  Bees. 

My  Dear  Mrs.  C. :  I  am  still  busily  engaged  in 
looking  upon  the  interesting  scenes  of  this  wonderful 
country.  And,  as  I  become  accustomed  to  the  habits 
and  manners  of  the  people,  I  enjoy  my  visit  more  and 
more.  The  letters  of  introduction  from  my  Charleston 
friends  to  commercial  houses  here,  have  procured  for 
me  those  courtesies  which  the  Spanish  gentlemen  so 
well  know  how  to  bestow.  The  French  have  the  rep- 
utation of  being  the  most  polite  people  in  the  world, 
but  I  like  the  native  politeness  of  the  Spaniards  better. 
Through  the  kindness  of  my  friends  here,  I  have  had 
access  to  public  and  private  gardens,  and  other  places 


Cuban  Correspondence.  15 

of  interest  in  Havana  and  its  suburbs.  I  average,  in 
my  rambles,  about  twenty  miles  a  day.  I  ride  in 
volantes,  omnibuses,  steamboats,  and  on  horseback. 
When  night  comes,  I  find  myself  so  wide-awake  that 
sleep  seems  almost  impossible.  I  seldom  sleep  more 
than  three  or  four  hours  a  night. 

Tuesday  evening  I  went  to  Principe,  a  little  moun- 
tain not  far  off,  to  get  a  night  view  of  the  surround- 
ings of  the  city.  The  omnibuses  go  only  half-way 
up  the  hill ;  the  rest  of  the  journey  has  to  be  per- 
formed on  foot.  At  9  o'clock  I  concluded  it  was 
time  to  go  home,  and  returned,  as  I  supposed,  to  the 
same  line  of  omnibuses  in  which  I  came.  You  may 
judge  my  surprise  when  I  ascertained  that  I  had  gone 
in  an  opposite  direction,  and  from  home. 

I  found  myself — I  knew  not  where — not  a  word 
could  I  understand.  I  asked  a  Cuban  how  far  to 
Plaza  de  Armas,  (the  place  from  which  I  started,)  and 
held  up  three  fingers,  supposing  it  was  three  miles.  I 
was  shocked  when  he  held  up  both  hands.  It  was 
now  10  o'clock,  and  I  was  outside  the  walls  of  the 
city  without  a  passport.  The  police  regulations  here 
are  very  strict,  it  being  a  violation  of  the  law  to  allow 
a  foreigner  to  remain  in  a  public  or  private  house 
without  a  permit  from  an  officer  in  Havana. 

How  much  I  then  regretted  that  I  did  not  accept 
your  kind  offer  to  teach  me  the  Spanish  language.  I 
was  well  punished  for  my  indifference  and  ingratitude. 

A  little  after  12  o'clock  I  found  the  "  Revere 
House,"  but  it  was  closed  and  all  was  darkness.  I 
commenced  hammering  at  the  door,  and  soon  drew 


1 6  Cuban  Correspondence. 

around  me  more  watchmen  than  I  cared  to  see,  espe- 
cially as  I  could  not  understand  what  they  were  jab- 
bering about,  so  I  left  for  the  "  Dominica."  On  my 
way  I  heard  an  unearthly  mixture  of  discords.  I 
very  cautiously  approached  the  place  from  which  the 
sounds  proceeded,  and  was  delighted  to  find  myself 
at  a  negro  holiday  ball! 

Such  a  wild  scene  never  before  presented  itself  to 
my  astonished  eyes.  Some  thirty  negroes  were  en- 
gaged in  the  dance.  They  looked  to  me  like  wild 
Africans,  just  dropped  down  from  the  spicy  land — such 
uncouth  music,  and  unearthly  noises,  and  frightful 
countenances.  Briefly,  the  miserable  creatures  were 
perfectly  frantic — quite  a  number  were  almost  in  a 
state  of  nudity.  I  do  not  know  much  about  balls,  but 
it  seemed  to  me  there  was  no  order  in  their  dancing 
or  music — all  was  one  hideous,  wild,  yelling  scene  of 
confusion.  It  looked  as  if  the  dark  pit  had  been 
opened,  and  these  people,  in  the  shape  of  women  and 
men,  had  been  permitted  on  this  Christmas  holiday, 
to  have  one  grand  blow  out  on  earth.  Their  coun- 
tenances were  horrid,  frightful,  and  unhappy ;  they 
danced  all  night,  and  then,  I  suppose,  went  to  mass  in 
the  morning. 

This  is  life  in  Havana !  When  a  boy,  I  had  wit- 
nessed negro  balls,  and  wild  Indian  dances,  in  the 
mountains  of  my  own  native  land;  but  never  had  I 
seen  anything  that  could  compare  with  the  scenes  of 
Tuesday  night.  I  was  well  compensated,  by  the 
gratification  of  my  curiosity,  for  the  loss  of  a  night's 
sleep. 


Cuban  Correspondence.  17 

What  will  my  good  Methodist  brethren  say  when 
they  learn  that  I  have  been  to  a  dance?  I  apprehend 
when  I  return  they  will  lecture  me  in  downright  ear- 
nest :  before  I  left  home,  if  I  looked  sad  it  was  "  wrong 
to  do  so."  If  I  laughed  and  seemed  happy,  there  was 
danger  of  my  being  "  led  astray  by  fashionable  so- 
ciety!"  Don't  open  your  eyes.  I  do  not  mean  you. 
Since  I  was  a  wee  mountain  boy,  I  have  been  my  own 
guardian,  and  I  don't  feel  like  applying  for  one  just 
yet. 

I  came  to  Cuba  to  see  the  elephant!  and  if  I  live 
long  enough  I  am  determined  to  accomplish  my 
errand.  I  have  no  fears  that  I  shall  suffer  either 
morally,  mentally,  physically  or  spiritually.  I  wish  to 
observe  critically  the  manners,  customs,  and  morals 
of  a  nation  under  Romish  influences.  I  will  do  so 
and  run  the  risk  of  being  stung,  as  I  was  this  morn- 
ing, by  believing  one  of  Frederika  Bremer's  bee 
stories.  You  know,  she  says,  there  are  no  poisonous 
reptiles  on  the  Island  of  Cuba,  and  that  the  Cuban 
bee  did  not  have  a  poisonous  sting.  I  caught  one 
and  paid  painfully  for  my  credulity.  Ah  !  Frederika, 
this  is  not  the  only  mistake  you  have  made  in  your 
"  Homes  of  the  New  World." 

But,  the  "  Black  Warrior  "  is  in,  and  I  must  close. 
Adieu,  my  friend.  G.  W.  W. 

Havana,  January,  1856. 


LETTER    FIFTH 


Trip  to  Guines — Chinamen — Spaniards  and  Creoles — 
John  Bidl — Cuban  Gentlemen — Lotteries — Travel. 

It  would  be  impossible  for  me  to  describe  to  you 
all  the  objects  of  interest  and  beauty  that  present 
themselves  on  every  side  in  a  railroad  ride  from  Ha- 
vana to  Guines.  I  looked  with  more  than  ordinary 
interest  on  the  broad,  green  fields  of  sugar-cane,  now 
and  then  interspersed  with  coffee  groves  and  tobacco 
plantations. 

The  production  of  sugar  is  increasing  rapidly,  and 
the  yield  this  year  will  be  unusually  large.  Many 
coffee  estates  are  being  abandoned.  It  is  thought  the 
present  crop  will  not  supply  the  home  consumption. 

It  is  very  difficult  to  realize  that  you  are  in  mid- 
winter, when  you  look  upon  the  fields  of  corn  now  in 
silk  and  tassel,  and  see  the  people  dressed  in  their 
summer  costume,  and  the  earth  clothed  with  green 
grass  and  fresh  flowers.  The  weather  has  been  charm- 
ing, no  rain  or  frost.  I  have  found  it  delightful  to 
sleep  with  the  windows  open  under  the  lightest  cov- 
ering. 

It  is  amusing  to  see  the  agricultural  implements  in 
use  on  the  farms — old  ploughs,  with  one  handle,  such 
as  were  used  by  the  Egyptians  several  centuries  ago, 
drawn   by  two  creeping  oxen,  and    guided   by  dull, 


Cuban  Correspondence.  19 

stupid  negroes.  But  what  they  lack  in  art,  nature,  in 
her  fertility,  has  supplied.  With  the  rudest  labor,  the 
country  produces  an  abundance  of  the  richest  produc- 
tions, and  "  blossoms  as  the  rose." 

Guines  has  a  population  of  eight  thousand  persons. 
It  once  had  a  good  hotel,  but  now  they  put  you  in  a 
dirty  Spanish  fonda,  with  horses  and  dogs. 

To-day  we  visited  a  coffee  estate  near  Guines,  and, 
as  everybody  is  interested  in  this  tree  of  Arabia,  of 
course  I  looked  with  more  than  ordinary  interest  on 
its  growth,  culture  and  products.  The  large  fields  of 
the  luxuriant  coffee  plant  are  divided  by  avenues  of 
stately  palms  and  cocoas;  here  and  there  are  to  be 
seen  the  orange,  covered  with  fruit  and  flowers;  here 
you  also  find  the  double  jasmine,  white  tube  roses, 
and  night-blooming  cereus,  such  as  only  grow  to  per- 
fection under  a  tropical  sun. 

The  air  was  fragrant  with  the  mingled  perfumes 
from  these  flowers,  and  from  the  flowers  of  the  almost 
perpetual-blooming  coffee,  lemon  and  orange.  No 
wonder  this  gem  of  the  Gulf  is  called  a  paradise!  but 
I  imagine,  like  the  homes  of  our  first  parents,  there  is 
concealed,  in  this  bed  of  roses,  the  cunning  serpent. 

This  coffee  plantation,  although  covering  some  two 
hundred  acres  of  ground,  is  not  much  short  of  a  well- 
cultivated  garden,  producing,  as  it  does,  almost  every 
variety  of  fruit  and  flowers.  The  coffee  plant  does  not 
grow  much  taller  than  the  peach  trees  with  us. 

The  blossoms  look  like  white  jasmine,  and  form 
thick  clusters  around  the  branches.  It  has  successive 
crops  of  flowers,  blooming  monthly,  in  the  winter  and 


20  Cuban  Correspondence. 

spring.  The  berries,  when  ripe,  are  red,  resembling 
the  cherry  in  size  and  appearance.  They  ripen  from 
September  to  January,  and  are  gathered  by  the  hand, 
and  conveyed  in  baskets,  when  dried,  to  the  mill, 
where  they  pass  through  a  roller,  for  the  purpose  of 
removing  the  rough  hull.  The  next  process  is  to  pass 
them  through  a  fan  mill,  and  the  husk  is  separated 
from  the  berries.  This  coffee,  when  kept  for  a  num- 
ber of  years,  is  regarded  equal  to  the  celebrated 
Mocha.  It  is  exported  in  bags  made  of  manilla  hemp, 
and  weigh  from  one  hundred  and  fifty  to  two  hundred 
pounds. 

I  am  surprised  to  see  so  many  Chinamen  scattered 
throughout  the  Island.  They  are  brought  here  by 
the  cargo,  in  English  and  Yankee  ships,  and  sold  into 
ten  or  more  years  slavery!  These  poor  fellows  are 
made  to  believe  that  they  are  on  their  way  to  the  land 
of  gold,  (California.)  You  see  them  loaded  with  the 
cruel  Spanish  chain,  for  rebelling,  when  they  ascertain 
how  shamefully  they  have  been  imposed  upon.  Oh, 
for  a  Harriet  Beecher  Stowe,  to  write  a  Chee-Chow- 
Wang  romance  upon  the  cruelty  to  this  deluded 
people!  It  is  a  horrid  thing,  according  to  modern 
philanthropy,  to  steal  wild  Africans,  but  a  blessing  to 
kidnap  the  educated  Chinaman,  and  sell  him  into 
slavery.  Consistency  is  a  jewel.  Some  twelve  thou- 
sand have  already  been  brought  here,  half  smothered 
and  starved  in  crowded  ships,  and  the  cry  is  "  still  they 
come."  They  work  in  the  sugar-mills,  steamboats, 
and  anywhere  in  the  shade,  as  well  as  the  negro. 
They  are  doffing  their  cues,  and  falling  into  the  habits 


Cuban  Correspondence.  '  21 

and  costume  of  the  Cubans.  No  females  are  brought. 
It  is  difficult  to  teach  them  the  language,  and  they  do 
not  engage  so  readily  in  the  ceremonies  of  the  Catho- 
lic religion  as  the  Africans. 

The  slave  population  is  decreasing  rapidly.  Those 
who  are  smuggled  into  the  Island  are  of  the  male  sex. 
The  negroes  have  many  more  privileges  than  with  us. 
On  the  sugar  estates,  at  this  season  of  the  year,  they, 
however,  work  very  hard. 

On  the  Island  you  find  a  variety  of  characters.  The 
Spaniards  are  the  best  educated,  and  hold  all  offices 
of  honor  and  profit.  The  Creole  has  not  much  love 
or  sympathy  for  the  Spaniard.  The  foreigners  who 
live  here,  are  generally  adventurers,  and  come,  simply, 
to  make  money.  I  find  a  large  majority  of  them  bor- 
dering on  infidelity.  They  become  disgusted  with  the 
religion  of  the  government ;  and,  having  no  place  of 
worship,  they  give  themselves  up  to  the  worship  of 
Mammon.  Those  who  reside  here  more  than  three 
months,  are  required  to  swear  allegiance  to  the  gov- 
ernment, and  the  Roman  Catholic  religion.  You  may 
be  sure,  that  before  I  take  any  such  oath,  I  shall  de- 
mand my  passport,  shake  the  dust  from  my  feet,  and 
leave  this  natural  Eden  to  its  serpent. 

I  left  Havana  in  company  with  two  German  and  two 
English  acquaintances.  There  is  a  frankness  and  can- 
dor about  the  German  character  that  I  admire;  but 
John  Bull,  what  shall  I  say  of  that  gentleman  ?  I  take 
him  into  my  heart,  nestle  him,  imagine  that  I  begin  to 
esteem,  if  not  to  love  him,  and,  the  first  thing  I  know, 
John,  like  the   frog   in   the  fable,  begins  to  swell.     I 


22  Cuban  Correspondence. 

open  my  heart,  and  out  he  comes.  I  have  almost 
come  to  the  conclusion  that  the  only  way  a  full-grown 
British  subject  can  be  made  social  and  Americanized, 
is  by  marrying  him  to  a  daughter  of  the  House  of 
Jonathan.  I  know  it  must  be  deeply  mortifying  to  his 
national  pride,  to  enter  into  such  an  alliance,  but  he 
occasionally  does  so. 

In  Havana  I  made  one  acquaintance,  fresh  from  her 
Majesty's  dominions,  whom  I  rendered  furious  by  my 
Americanism.  He  was  talking  largely  of  the  "  mis- 
tress of  the  world,"  and  said  if  the  United  States 
attempted  to  buy  Cuba,  England  would  whip  her  as 
she  had  whipped  Russia !  I  told  him  it  appeared 
to  me  that  the  people  of  Havana  did  not  know  that 
England  had  been  engaged  in  a  war  with  Russia, 
judging  from  a  large  exhibition  that  I  had  seen  repre- 
senting all  the  battles  of  the  Crimea,  the  taking  of 
Sebastapol,  and  the  like.  The  English  did  not  have 
a  showing  in  the  picture,  unless  those  men  in  the 
trenches  were  intended  to  represent  the  British  gene- 
rals !  He  talked  about  French  humbug,  and  was 
angry  enough.  Nevertheless,  with  all  the  British 
Lion's  roaring,  swelling  and  blustering,  I  rather  like 
him.  He  has  shown  himself  to  be  powerful,  both  in 
war  and  peace.  It  is  wonderful  to  see  what  his  little 
corner  of  the  globe — somewhat  larger  than  a  few 
Georgia  cotton-fields — has  done,  and  can  do ;  and, 
loving  my  own  country  as  I  do,  I  must  yet  recognize 
the  English  as  a  great  and  powerful  people,  who  have 
given  to  the  world  some  of  its  most  glorious  examples 
and  noble  lessons. 


Cuban  Coitespondence.  23 

The  gentlemen  of  Cuba,  in  many  respects,  are 
superior  to  the  ladies.  They  are  an  active,  working 
set  of  men,  and  generally  are  much  better  informed 
than  the  other  sex. 

I  have  never  found  among  our  merchants  so  much 
politeness  and  accommodation  as  here.  Time  and 
again  have  strangers  left  their  business  and  gone  with 
me  from  place  to  place,  without  compensation,  never 
expecting  to  see  me  again.  A  gentleman  leaving  the 
United  States  for  Cuba,  only  requires  a  good  introduc- 
tion to  Havana  merchants.  I  had  letters  to  Spanish, 
Creole,  American  and  English  .  houses.  They  all 
seemed  to  take  pleasure  in  offering  me  every  facility 
for  visiting  their  friends  (merchants  and  planters)  in 
the  interior. 

Havana  is  the  New  York  of  Cuba.  Nearly  all  the 
imports  come  here,  and  the  banking  is  done  entirely 
in  Havana.  Their  currency  is  still  gold  and  silver, 
but  a  bank,  with  three  millions  capital,  will  go  into 
operation  soon. 

The  floors  in  Cuba  are  never  carpeted,  in  conse- 
quence of  the  heat  of  the  climate.  Thick  slate,  also 
marble  and  jasper  of  various  colors,  cut  in  squares, 
are  used  for  floors  in  most  of  the  dwelling-houses. 

You  are  much  annoyed  wherever  you  go  with 
applications  to  buy  lottery  tickets ;  and  I  have  been 
surprised  to  see  respectable  merchants  and  ladies  en- 
gaged in  this  species  of  gambling.  The  Queen  of 
Spain  draws  fifty  thousand  dollars  a  month  from  the 
lottery  office,  which,  it  seems,  does  not  keep  her  in 
pocket  change. 


24  Cuban  Correspondence. 

The  travel  on  a  Cuban  railroad  is  poco  a  poco,  six 
to  ten  miles  per  hour ;  but  the  scenery  is  so  magnifi- 
cent you  do  not  wish  to  move  faster. 

I  have  seen  mahogany  used  as  fuel  for  the  engines. 
It  is  surprising  that  the  Yankees,  who  build  their 
roads,  do  not  teach  them  better  economy.  I  should 
think,  from  what  I  have  observed,  it  is  much  easier 
for  an  American  to  fall  into  their  habits  than  to  ele- 
vate them  to  ours.  They  have  first,  second  and  third 
class  cars,  and  charge  three,  six  and  nine  cents  per 
mile.  Seventy-five  per  cent,  of  the  travel  is  on  the 
third-class  cars. 

I  leave  to-morrow  for  Matanzas.     Adieu. 

Guines,  February,  1856.  G.  W.  W. 


LETTER    SIXTH 


Matanzas — Friends —  Yumuri  Valley — Blood-hounds — 
A  Cave — Lopes —  Cardenas — •  Consistency. 

Well,  my  friend,  you  see  that  I  salute  you  from 
another  quarter,  have  changed  my  base,  and  am  now 
pleasantly  enough  situated  in  the  beautiful  City  of 
Matanzas.  My  room  opens  on  the  fine  bay,  and; 
after  a  hot  ride  on  the  railroad,  the  refreshing  sea 
breeze  is  delightful.  In  this  spacious  harbor  I  see 
"Young  America"  represented  in  the  shape  of  a  score 
of  ships,  hailing  from  Charleston,  New  York  and  Bos- 
ton, loading  with  the  products  of  this  rich  Island. 


Cuban  Correspondence.  25 

I  like  Matanzas,  in  many  respects,  better  than 
Havana.  The  inhabitants  look  more  comfortable,  and 
the  streets  are  wider  and  cleaner. 

The  country  from  Guines  to  this  city  is  very  pro- 
ductive, and  the  hills  and  valleys  through  which  you 
pass  make  it  a  most  picturesque  ride.  On  either  side 
are  large  fields  of  orange,  banana,  cocoanut  and  royal 
palm  trees,  loaded  with  fruit.  Matanzas  has  an 
active,  thriving  set  of  merchants,  and  carries  on  a 
brisk  trade  in  sugar,  coffee,  molasses,  etc.  I  am  now 
travelling  with  a  Boston  merchant  and  a  New  Orleans 
physician,  and  here  I  meet  a  Charleston  friend,  C. 
E.  M.,  whose  agreeable  phiz  looms  out  to  me  more 
pleasantly  than  ever  in  a  foreign  country.  We  Ameri- 
canos stick  together  like  brothers.  I  have  been  quite 
fortunate  in  making  acquaintances  in  this  land  of 
strangers.  I  do  feel  specially  grateful  to  God  for 
having  given  me,  among  other  blessings,  a  social  dis- 
position, for  it  gives  me  kind,  good  friends,  from  whom 
I  derive  much  information  and  happiness. 

I  must  now  tell  you  about  the  celebrated  Yumuri 
Valley.  Having  procured  four  fine  Spanish  ponies, 
and  friend  M.  for  our  guide,  we  started  for  the  moun- 
tains. On  we  marched  in  regular  Indian  file,  ascend- 
ing hill  after  hill,  until  we  reached  the  summit  of 
Cumbre  Mountain.  Here  let  us  rest,  and  behold  the 
most  magnificent  scenery  in  the  world.  Now  imagine 
yourself  on  a  lofty  pinnacle,  without  tree  or  shrub  to 
obstruct  your  view  in  any  direction,  and  see  the  won- 
drous panorama  that  delights  the  vision  on  every 
hand. 

4 


26  Cuban  Correspondence. 

Cast  your  eye  to  the  north,  and  you  see  the  broad, 
blue  Gulf  of  Mexico,  and  there  comes  a  steamer  from 
Havana.  Those  ships  which  are  sailing  so  gracefully 
into  port — where  are  they  from  ?  They  have  not  yet 
hung  out  their  flags,  and  I  cannot  tell.  To  the  west 
and  east  is  the  harbor  and  beautiful  City  of  Matan- 
zas  ;  to  the  south — ah  !  here  is  the  picture  which  fills 
the  soul  with  rapturous  delight.  Look  upon  Yumuri, 
the  most  beautiful  valley  on  the  globe  !  I  had  always 
thought  there  was  no  land  so  lovely  as  my  own  dear 
Nacoochee,  the  Tempe  of  the  South, 

"  Where  the  zephyrs  perfumed  as  from  the  Spice  Islands, 
Mount  up  from  the  valley  to  welcome  the  morn  ; 
Where  the  gale  robs  the  zephyr  to  gladden  the  highland 
With  sweetness,  that  e'en  to  proud  Yonah  is  borne. 

'Tis  a  valley  of  peace,  rich  in  every  soft  feature, 

In  sunshine  or  shade,  in  its  own  verdant  green  ; 
'Tis  Georgia's  Egeria,  most  lovely  by  nature, 
Carved  out  of  a  chaos  of  wild  mountain  scene." 

Yes,  for  once  in  my  life,  have  I  beheld  a  valley 
beautiful  as  the  "  sweet  vale  of  Nacoochee."  These 
rich  and  varied  scenes  have  produced  a  well-spring  in 
my  heart  from  which  I  can  ever  draw  happiness.  As 
I  looked  forth  on  the  natural  beauty  that  lay  spread 
out  beneath  and  around  me,  O,  how  I  did  wish  that 
all  my  friends  could  be  with  me,  and  feast  on  the  rich 
scenery  of  this  charming  valley  !  Far,  far  below  are 
broad,  green  fields  of  sugar-cane,  now  in  full  bloom ; 
and  on  the  sides  of  the  mountain,  standing  in  glorious 
beauty,  you  see,  in  thick  groups,  the  majestic  Royal 
Palm.     On  the  quiet  and  peaceful  banks  of  the  Yu- 


Cuban  Correspondence.  27 

muri  River,  which  winds  its  way  through  the  valley, 
are  beautiful  groves  of  orange,  banana,  lemon,  and 
almond ;  and  here  and  there  peep  out  farm-houses, 
almost  hid  by  luxuriant  vines,  trees,  and  flowers. 
We  could  not  leave  this  enchanting  spot  until  the 
sun  had  dropped  behind  the  distant  mountains,  and 
warned  us  that  darkness  would  soon  be  upon  us. 

This  lovely  valley  has  a  sad  history.  It  was  here 
that  the  natives  were  cruelly  massacred  by  the  Christ- 
ian (?)  Spaniards.  Only  a  small  remnant  were  left. 
These,  finding  themselves  pursued  by  the  blood- 
hounds, threw  themselves  into  the  river,  shouting, 
"  Yo  Moir !  Yo  Moir/" — I  die,  I  die:  Ever  afterwards 
the  river  and  valley  were  called  Yumuri. 

As  we  were  returning  to  the  city,  a  pack  of  fierce 
Cuban  blood-hounds  attacked  us,  and  it  seemed  that 
we  should  be  torn  to  pieces ;  fortunately,  the  largest 
and  most  desperate  fellow  was  muzzled.  They  seized 
our  Boston  friend  by  the  foot,  and  I  thought  would 
unhorse  him.  They  chased  us  nearly  a  mile.  I  do 
not  know  when  I  have  witnessed  a  more  exciting 
scene.  Nearly  all  the  planters  keep  these  dogs,  and 
train  them  to  catch  runaway  negroes  that  hide  in  the 
caverns  of  the  mountains.  Near  this  valley  is  a  cave 
worthy  of  a  visit.  The  entrance  is  rather  narrow  and 
difficult,  but  after  you  have  gone  some  hundred  feet  it 
becomes  wider.  You  find  it  necessary  to  carry  lamps 
and  matches,  for  if  your  light  should  become  extin- 
guished, it  would  be  very  difficult  to  find  your  way 
out.  The  cave  penetrates  the  mountain  half  a  mile. 
The  drippings  through  the  rugged  cliffs  become  pet- 


28  Cuban  Correspondence. 

rifled,  and  hang  down  in  clusters  resembling  icicles. 
Owls  and  bats  inhabit  this  dismal  abode  in  great  num- 
bers ;  and  it  was  formerly  a  safe  hiding  place  for  the 
highway  robbers  who  committed  many  murders  in 
this  region,  and  were  the  terror  of  the  neighborhood. 

We  left  Matanzas  in  the  steamer  which  carried  the 
unfortunate  Lopez  and  party  to  their  last  home  on 
earth.  The  engineer — an  American — pointed  out  the 
place  on  deck  where  three  young  men  from  New 
Orleans  were  shot.  The  poor  fellows  were  sent  into 
eternity  without  a  moment's  warning  or  preparation. 
The  prisoners  were  all  treated  with  the  greatest 
indignity.  After  a  pleasant  sail  up  the  coast  of  six 
hours,  we  reached  Cardenas.  This  is  the  city  of  eight 
thousand  inhabitants  taken  by  Lopez  with  five  hun- 
dred men  !  Their  shot  and  shell  marks  are  still  to 
be  seen  on  the  houses  and  doors.  Here  I  find  a 
great  many  persons  dissatisfied  with  the  tyrannical 
government ;  but  they  were  too  cowardly  to  join 
Lopez,  or  they  might  now  be  free.  Lopez  finding 
himself  surrounded  with  twelve  thousand  troops,  was 
compelled  to  leave  for  the  United  States.  But  you 
are,  no  doubt,  well  informed  in  relation  to  the  wretched 
history. 

Cardenas  is  located  on  the  coast.  As  a  place  of 
residence  it  is  uninviting,  but  a  large  trade  is  carried 
on.  One-fourth  of  the  sugar  crop  is  shipped  from 
this  port.  Here  you  find  Massachusetts  and  Maine 
merchants  buying  the  "slave  molasses,"  and  shipping 
it  to  Boston  and  Portland  to  be  manufactured  into  pure 
New  England  rum,  and  sold  to  Southern  heathens  for 


Cuban  Correspondence.  29 

"slave  money."     This  is  a  beautiful  sort  of  consistency 
for  your  spiritual  education. 

I  have  letters  of  introduction  to  the  proprietors  of 
Flor  de   Cuba,  Ponina,  Alva  and  St.  Helene,  four  of 
the  largest  sugar  estates  on  the  Island.     When  I  have 
visited  these  places,  you  shall  hear  from  me  again. 
Yours,  very  truly, 

G.  W.  W. 


LETTER    SEVENTH 


Flor  de    Cuba — Sugar-making — St.  Helene — Society — 
The  Lower  Classes — The  Spanish  Rule. 

I  am  now,  my  friend,  in  the  richest  and  most  highly 
cultivated  districts  of  the  Island,  receiving  the  princely 
hospitalities  of  the  kindest  people  it  has  been  my  lot 
hitherto  to  meet  abroad.  Flor  de  Cuba  (flower  of 
Cuba)  is  one  of  the  largest  and  best  regulated  sugar 
plantations  in  the  wide,  wide  world.  It  belongs  to  the 
family  of  Arriettas,  a  family  which  would  be  a  credit 
to  any  country.  Before  delivering  my  letters  of  intro- 
duction, I  must  confess  that  I  felt  more  than  ordinary 
concern  about  the  reception ;  but  I  carried  a  request 
from  Havana  friends  that  I  should  receive  those 
polite  attentions  which  these  planters  so  well  know 
how  to  bestow. 

"  You  are  welcome,  sir;  and  we  hope  you  will  make 
our  house  your  home,"  was  said   in  such   a  manner 


30  Cuban  Correspondence. 

that  it  made  me  feel  at  home.  It  was  no  mere  pro- 
verbial and  superlative  compliment  of  the  Mexicans. 
Mr.  Victor  Arrietta,  the  head  of  the  house,  after  the 
courtesies  and  graces  of  hospitality  had  been  duly 
considered,  proceeded  to  show  me  the  utilities  as  well 
as  beauties  of  the  place.  He  showed  and  explained 
to  me  all  the  processes  in  sugar-making.  These,  as 
you  may  well  conceive,  from  your  knowledge  of  my 
practical  tendencies,  interested  me  very  greatly,  and, 
for  the  benefit  of  my  friends,  who  have  never  visited  a 
sugar  estate,  I  will  endeavor  to  give  them  some  idea 
of  the  "Flower  of  Cuba,"  and  its  productions. 

This  estate  contains  five  thousand  acres  of  produc- 
tive lands.  We  rode,  for  hours,  through  an  immense 
field  of  sugar-canes,  growing  from  twelve  to  eighteen 
feet  high.  These  fields  are  divided  by  beautiful  ave- 
nues of  royal  palm  and  mango  trees.  Many  of  the 
trees  are  sixty  to  eighty  feet  high;  in  the  distance 
looking  like  white  marble  columns.  The  planters 
commence  cutting  the  cane  in  December,  and  the  top 
is  used  as  food  for  cattle.  In  Louisiana,  the  cane  has 
to  be  renewed  annually;  here,  once  in  ten  or  fifteen 
years.  It  is  hauled  in  carts  drawn  by  oxen  to  the 
sugar-mill,  which  is  usually  located  in  the  centre  of 
the  farm.  The  cane  is  passed  between  two  large  iron 
rollers,  and  the  juice  is  pressed  out,  flowing  through 
troughs  into  tanks,  to  be  purified.  It  is  next  pumped 
into  cisterns,  and  boiled  to  the  consistency  of  a  syrup. 
On  this  estate  they  make  both  clayed  and  Muscovado 
sugars.  The  former  is  made  in  tin  moulds,  in  the 
shape  of  a  funnel,  holding  fifty  pounds.     These  vessels 


Cuban  Correspondence.  31 

are  filled  with  green  sugar;  on  the  top  is  placed  a 
layer  of  clay,  two  inches  thick,  and  they  are  left  three 
weeks  to  drip  and  dry.  The  pipe-clay  is  mixed  with 
water,  to  the  consistency  of  cream;  and  the  water 
from  this  clay  filters  through  the  sugar,  and  carries 
with  it  the  relics  and  tinge  of  molasses.  The  clay 
serves  no  other  purpose  than  to  retain  the  water,  and 
prevent  its  percolation  too  rapidly  through  the  sugar. 
The  clay  is  then  removed,  and  you  have  a  loaf  of 
sugar,  which  is  divided  into  three  qualities.  The  top 
being  the  whitest,  it  is  packed  in  boxes  of  four  hun- 
dred pounds  each,  and  is  known  in  the  commercial 
world  as  Havana  box  sugar. 

The  best  quality  of  Muscovado  sugar  is  made  by 
the  centrifugal  process.  The  raw  material  is  poured 
into  a  machine,  which  is  turned  by  steam,  with  great 
rapidity.  In  a  few  minutes  you  have  a  well-grained 
dry  sugar,  which,  packed  in  hogsheads,  is  the  quality 
shipped  to  the  United  States,  while  the  clayed  article 
goes  mainly  to  Europe.  Lime,  blood,  and  animal 
bones,  are  used  in  the  manufacture  of  sugar.  The 
crushed  cane  is  dried  and  serves  as  fuel  to  heat  the 
kettles,  in  which  the  sugar  is  boiled;  wood  being  a 
scarce  article  in  this  part  of  the  Island.  Formerly, 
the  grinding  was  done  by  ox-power,  but  recently  the 
American  steam  engine  has  been  introduced.  The 
buildings  and  machinery  on  this  estate  cost  three 
hundred  thousand  dollars.  The  owners  work  eight 
hundred  hands,  and  about  one  thousand  oxen;  for  five 
months  in  the  year  the  mill  runs  night  and  day — 
Sunday   and     Monday.     Three    hundred    acres    are 


32  Cuban  Correspondence. 

planted  in  vegetables,  fruit,  etc.,  for  the  negroes. 
They  will  make,  this  year,  twelve  thousand  boxes  and 
two  thousand  hogsheads  of  sugar,  beside  several  thou- 
sand hogsheads  of  molasses.  The  products  of  this 
farm  would  be  worth,  in  the  Charleston  market,  one 
million  of  dollars!  The  good  people  of  the  Palmetto 
State  have  to  pay  a  duty  of  thirty  dollars  per  hogs- 
head, to  protect  the  Louisiana  sugar  planters,  before 
they  are  permitted  to  sweeten  their  coffee  with  Cuban 
sugar. 

The  family  were  invited  to  a  dinner  party  at  St. 
Helene,  and  said  they  would  be  pleased  to  have  me 
accompany  them,  assuring  me  of  a  welcome.  It  suited 
my  humor  and  objects  to  see  all  that  could  be  seen, 
and  I  went.  There  I  had  an  opportunity  of  observing 
and  hearing  much  of  the  manners  and  customs  of  the 
Cuban  ladies.  I  found  them  intelligent  and  educated, 
and  as  they  spoke  English,  I  spent  several  days  at  St. 
Helene.  We  discussed  Cuban  manners  freely  and  un- 
reservedly. I  was  pleased  to  be  corrected  where  I 
had  formed  erroneous  opinions.  When  introduced  to 
a  Creole  lady,  you  think  her  decidedly  flat  and  unin- 
teresting. It  is  the  fashion  to  appear  as  indifferent  as 
possible;  she,  however,  soon  becomes  animated,  and 
then  look  out  for  those  dark,  bewitching  eyes,  and 
that  soft,  sweet  voice.  The  education  of  the  females 
is,  however,  too  much  neglected;  and  then  they  are 
much  restricted  in  their  intercourse  with  the  world. 
A  very  intelligent  gentleman  told  me  that  the  men 
did  not  wish  to  have  their  wives  know  as  much  as 
they  did.     I  told  him,  in  our  country,  ignorant  wives 


Cuban  Correspondence.  33 

were,  but  too  frequently,  the  mothers  of  worthless 
and  stupid  boys.  There  is  a  custom  here,  among 
some  Cuban  mothers,  which,  I  think,  might  be  imi- 
tated by  our  own  people.  At  sunset  a  bell  is  rung, 
which  is  a  summons  for  the  children  to  ask  a  mother's 
blessing.  They  each  affectionately  kiss  her  hand, 
the  hand  is  then  placed  on  their  head  with,  "God 
bless  and  make  you  good,  my  child." 

In  the  lower  classes,  the  men  and  women  are  both 
ignorant  and  indolent.  They  have  no  ambition  to  im- 
prove their  condition,  morally  or  physically — gener- 
ally living  in  miserable  huts.  The  glory  of  the  men 
is  to  attend  cock  and  bull  fights,  gamble,  and  roll 
ninepins ;  and  the  women  smoke  and  idle  away  their 
time.  Not  a  book  or  newspaper  is  to  be  seen  in  their 
houses  ;  and  they  have  no  knowledge  of  the  world 
beyond  the  prescribed  limits  of  the  Island.  The 
luxuriant  flowers  which  cover  their  thatched  cottages 
afford  no  pleasure  to  the  occupants.  It  is  a  waste  of 
beauty  and  fragrance  on  uncultivated  tastes.  The 
higher  classes  will  no  more  associate  with  them  than 
with  their  servants. 

Here,  in  this  land  of  flowers  and  sunshine,  you  see 
the  withering,  cursing  blight  of  Spanish  Romanism ; 
and  it  is  the  policy  of  that  government  to  keep  the 
people  in  ignorance  and  midnight  darkness.  We 
cannot  hope  for  a  change  until  the  star-spangled 
banner  waves  triumphantly  over  Moro  Castle.  God 
grant  that  the  day  may  not  be  far  distant  when  every 
man  in  this  beautiful  Cuba,  can  worship  his  Maker, 
unmolested,  under  his  own  vine  and  fig  tree !  I  do 
5 


34  Cuban  Correspondence. 

not  ask  that  they  shall  be  Methodists  or  Presbyte- 
rians ;  but  I  object  to  the  government,  because  it 
is  a  religious  and  military  despotism.  Romanism 
here  rides  rough-shod  over  everything.  The  priests 
have  the  reputation  of  being  a  very  wordly  set  of 
men ;  but  many  of  their  followers  are  self-sacrificing 
Christians,  of  pure  and  unblemished  character. 

You  find  among  the  educated  Cubans  a  burning 
hatred  of  the  Spanish  yoke,  and  they  are  ready  to 
throw  it  off  whenever  they  can  be  assured  that  the 
garrote  will  not  be  their  fate — in  other  words,  when- 
ever patriotism  shall  see  a  reasonable  chance  of  suc- 
cess ;  but  at  present  this  class  is  too  feeble  and  closely 
watched  to  accomplish  much  without  foreign  aid.  I 
know  several  planters  who  pay  twenty  to  thirty  thou- 
sand dollars  taxes,  and  they  have  no  more  voice  or 
influence  in  the  government  than  their  slaves.  The 
Captain-General,  governors,  and  all  who  are  in  com- 
mand, are  Spaniards,  and  appointed  at  the  virtuous  (?) 
court  of  Madrid.  The  government  of  Cuba  is  em- 
phatically a  military  despotism  ;  the  edicts  are  en- 
forced by  the  Spanish  soldiers.  There  is  a  strict 
censorship  exercised  over  the  press  here.  Every 
barrel  of  flour  imported  from  a  foreign  country  pays 
a  duty  of  ten  dollars  !  and  they  are  not  allowed  to 
grow  wheat  on  their  own  land.  Think  of  a  little 
Island  like  Cuba  supporting  a  standing  army  of  forty 
thousand  soldiers,  who  fatten  and  revel  on  the  sub- 
stance of  this  oppressed  people !  The  wealthiest 
planter  in  Cuba  is  not  permitted  to  go  ten  miles  from 
home  without  a  "  permit  "  from  a  Spanish  officer.     It 


Cuban  Correspondence.  35 

is  my  heart's  desire  to  see  this  beautiful,  fertile  Island 
one  of  the  bright  gems  in  our  own  constellation. 
Then,  and  not  till  then,  will  the  Cubans  acquire  free- 
dom of  opinion  and  conduct,  and  religious  liberty.  I 
want  to  see  the  American  eagle  stretching  its  wings 
from  Canada  to  Panama.  Cuba  belongs  to  us  geo- 
graphically, and  it  must  be  ours  politically.  Could 
this  take  place,  the  happiness  of  her  own  people  would 
be  greatly  promoted,  and  we,  and  the  balance  of  the 
world,  would  be  benefited.  It  must  be  inhabited  by 
those  who  are  able  to  improve  and  cultivate  it,  and 
establish  religious  toleration.  For  fear,  however,  that 
you  will  suspect  me  of  having  become  a  "  filibuster," 
I  must  stop ;  but  on  this  subject  more  anon. 
Yours,  very  truly, 

G.  W.  W. 
Flor  de  Cuba,  February,  1856. 


LETTER     EIGHTH 


More  of  the  Interior — Fruits— ~Climate — Purgatory — 
Priestcraft — A  Little  Filibustering — Etc.,  Etc. 

I  extended  my  visit  from  Flor  de  Cuba  further 
south  to  Ponina,  and  several  other  large  sugar  estates, 
receiving  the  kind  hospitalities  of  the  planters  all 
along  the  route.  My  visit  to  the  interior  of  the  Island 
has  been  altogether  very  interesting  and  agreeable. 
Their  houses,  tables,  carriages  and  servants  are  at  your 
command,  and  if  you  don't  have  a  good  time  it  is 
your  own  fault.  Here  a  lover  of  the  beautiful  in 
nature  can  be  gratified  to  his  heart's  content.  One 
of  my  favorite  enjoyments  is  to  take  early  morning 
strolls  through  the  large  gardens,  plucking  the  ripe 
fruit  from  the  trees.  The  sweet  orange  is  my  favorite. 
The  lemon  does  not  flourish  so  well.  At  Alva  I 
counted  forty  varieties  of  fruit  in  one  garden. 

It  is  not  surprising  that  this  beautiful  Island  should 
be  called  the  garden  of  the  world ;  perpetual  summer 
reigns  on  its  flowers  and  fruits,  its  sugar-cane,  coffee 
and  tobacco  plants.  The  rich  soils  produce,  with 
little  culture,  bountiful  and  almost  perpetual  crops. 
Its  waters  abound  in  the  greatest  variety  of  fish.  Its 
magnificent  forest  trees  alone  are  a  source  of  study 
and  pleasure.  The  stately  Royal  Palm,  in  my  estima- 
tion, is  the  king  of  the  forest. 

I  went  to  several  dinner-parties.  The  hour  for  din- 
ing is  from  5  to  8  o'clock.     The  Cuban  cooking  is  too 


Cuban  Correspondence.  $7 

rich  for  me,  and  they  mix  garlic  and  onions  and 
onions  and  garlic  in  nearly  every  dish.  It  seemed  out 
of  season  in  mid-winter  to  have  spread  before  you 
green  peas,  corn,  tomato  and  all  the  summer  vegetables 
of  our  climate.  After  you  have  partaken  of  fish,  pork, 
beef,  turkey,  sweetmeats,  jellies  and  fruits,  your  plate 
in  the  meanwhile  being  changed  a  dozen  times,  the 
cloth  is  removed,  and  you  wind  up  with  coffee,  cigars 
and  wine.  The  ladies  do  not  leave  the  table,  but 
occasionally  enjoy  a  cigaretta.  They  regard  me  as  a 
sort  of  outside  barbarian,  as  I  could  not  join  in  drink- 
ing and  smoking.  Wine  is  universally  used  here,  but 
they  seldom  drink  to  intoxication. 

In  this  hot  climate  the  negroes  live  mainly  on  fruit 
and  vegetables.  They  are  allowed  salted  fish  and  beef, 
but  no  bacon.  Rice  is  cultivated  on  the  uplands,  and 
grows  in  the  wet  season.  It  seldom  rains  here  in  the 
winter,  but  in  summer  it  comes  down  in  torrents, 
making  the  roads,  in  this  limestone  country,  almost 
impassable.  Miss  Bremer  says,  "  no  one  need  fear 
the  night  here — it  is  not  cold ;  it  has  no  dew."  But 
that  fair  lady  was  by  no  means  infallible  as  an  author- 
ity. If  she  had  taken  some  early  rides  with  me,  she 
would  certainly  have  seen  the  morning  dew-drops  on 
the  beautiful  flowers.  In  the  dry  season  vegetation 
is  kept  alive  and  green- by  the  refreshing  dews. 

I  did  not  like  to  see  the  amalgamation  that  is  going 
on  here.  It  is  lawful  for  a  Cuban  to  have  a  colored 
wife  and  mongrel  children.  But  if  a  white  man  will 
go  to  Africa  for  a  wife,  I  see  no  reason  why  his  chil- 
dren should  not  be  his  heirs.    This  is  the  Spanish  view 


38  Cuban  Correspondence. 

of  the  question,  and  a  law  was  made  to  recognize  the 
principle,  and  I  commend  the  government  for  it. 
There  is  a  marked  partiality  among  the  Creoles  for 
the  Southerners  :  they  know  we  are  sound  on  the 
Nebraska  question.  I  find  quite  a  number  of  planters 
from  the  United  States  residing  here,  and  they  nearly 
all  hail  from  the  Northern  States.  It  is  said  they 
make  the  hardest  masters,  but  of  that  I  had  no  evi- 
dence. I  know  Mr.  F.'s  servants  were  very  much 
distressed  when  he  sold  out  for  the  purpose  of  return- 
ing to  Boston.  The  queen's  mother  owned  the  largest 
sugar  estate  on  the  Island,  but  became  involved,  and 
sold  it  to  a  very  enterprising  Spaniard.  This  gentle- 
man was  ambitious  to  make  large  crops,  and  promised 
his  overseer  fifty  thousand  dollars  when  he  made  five 
thousand  hogsheads  of  sugar,  and  last  year  they  made 
fifty-five  hundred.  It  is  said  the  negroes  were  worked 
so  hard  that  three  hundred  died ;  but  this  calamity 
was  charged  to  cholera,  and  I  doubt  not  that  this  fatal 
disease  was  the  main  cause  of  the  mortality.  I  am 
surprised  to  find  children  here,  even  among  the  rich, 
only  half  clad;  and  many  of  the  lower  classes  do  not 
have  a  covering  of  fig  leaves.  The  blacks  on  these 
plantations  are  often  not  better  clad  than  their  fore- 
fathers in  the  wilds  of  Africa. 

Recently  the  owner  of  that  estate  died,  and  the 
funeral  at  Cienfugos  cost  ten  thousand  dollars.  His 
remains  were  then  removed  to  Havana.  His  dis- 
tressed widow  was  told  that  her  husband's  soul  was 
in  purgatory,  and  it  would  require  twenty  thousand 
dollars  to  efet  him  out ! 


Cuban  Correspondence.  39 

I  felt  a  great  curiosity  to  witness  the  ceremonies 
performed  for  that  purpose.  The  church  was  robed 
in  mourning,  and  illuminated  by  immense  candles, 
supported  on  candlesticks  eight  feet  high ;  incense 
was  burned  in  censers  throughout  the  church,  and 
there  was  one  grand  display  of  priestly  pharisaism, 
witnessed  by  thousands  of  people.  I  was  told  that 
the  priests  made  sixteen  to  eighteen  thousand  dollars 
clear.  How  ridiculous  to  suppose  a  man's  spiritual 
condition  can  be  changed  after  he  is  dead,  or  his  sins 
expiated  by  the  interposition  of  priestly  ceremonials. 
The  Romish  clergy  avail  themselves  of  every  oppor- 
tunity to  fleece  their  followers.  For  fifty  cents,  they 
will  sell  a  dispensation  which  entitles  the  purchaser  to 
the  privilege  of  sinning  for  forty  days  ! 

A  large  revenue  is  derived  from  this  species  of 
imposition.  The  indulgences  are  generally  purchased 
by  the  poor  and  ignorant.  In  this  way  these  deluded 
people  are  encouraged  in  wickedness.  I  bought  one, 
but  found  it  was  of  no  use,  as  I  was  required  to 
believe  in  the  priest,  pope  and  the  devil,  to  make  it 
available — a  trio  that  I  do  not  fancy.  You  may  judge 
of  the  religious  condition  of  a  people  with  such  spirit- 
ual teachers. 

But,  apart  from  the  religious  view  of  the  question, 
the  political  importance  of  Cuba  to  the  United  States 
cannot  easily  be  over-estimated.  It  commands  the 
Gulf  of  Mexico,  and  is  almost  within  cannon-shot  of 
the  Florida  coast.  England  and  France  are  watching 
with  a  jealous  eye  our  every  movement.  Their  war- 
ships are  to  be  seen  in  all  the  ports.     They  profess  to 


40  Cuban  Correspondence. 

be  on  the  lookout  for  African  slavers  :  at  the  same 
time  they  are  aiding  in  the  introduction  of  slavery  of 
the  worst  kind.  When  the  Spanish  officials  fired  into 
our  ship,  and  insulted  the  American  flag,  that  was  the 
time  to  have  put  this  garden  of  Spain  into  our  family 
group.  We  may  never  have  such  an  opportunity 
again. 

The  planters  are  getting  one  hundred  per  cent, 
more  for  sugar  and  molasses  this  year  than  last. 
Sugar-cane  is  king  here.  The  tobacco  crop  is  next 
in  value.  It  is  estimated  that  the  productions  of  Cuba 
this  year  will  be  worth  one  hundred  millions  of  dol- 
lars !  The  population  is  fifteen  hundred  thousand. 
The  Island  is  capable  of  supporting  ten  times  that 
number  of  inhabitants.  The  annual  exports  amount 
to  six  hundred  million  pounds  of  sugar  and  eighty 
million  coffee.  The  export  of  tobacco  is  about  ten 
millions,  partly  in  the  leaf,  besides  three  hundred 
millions  manufactured  cigars.  Railroads  are  being 
built  in  every  direction ;  some  six  hundred  miles  are 
already  completed.  Steamboats  also  are  constantly 
running  on  the  northern  and  southern  coasts.  I  was 
surprised  to  find  here  such  high  mountains,  from 
which  clear  mountain  rivulets  come  tumbling  into  the 
valleys,  furnishing  pure,  wholesome  water.  Next 
week  I  propose,  please  Providence,  to  go  to  Yucatan. 
I  wish  to  look  at  the  "  ruins"  of  that  antique  country, 
the  origin  of  which  must,  in  all  probability,  forever 
remain  a  mystery. 

Yours,  truly, 

G.  W.  W. 


LETTER    NINTH 


In  Havana  Again — Tomb  of  Columbus — The  Cathedral 
— The  Fish  Market — Bull  Fight — Execution  of  Crit- 
tenden and  Lopez. 

Once  more,  my  friend,  you  see  me  in  Havana, 
reviewing  with  renewed  zest  and  better  knowledge, 
the  various  objects  that  have  already  interested  me  so 
much.  A  friend  met  me  to-day  at  Principe,  and  said, 
"  Is  it  possible  you  are  not  tired  of  sight-seeing  yet  ?" 
Tired,  indeed!  I  would  just  as  soon  expect  to  grow 
weary  of  looking  on  a  face  that  I  love,  as  to  tire  in 
beholding  the  thousand  and  one  objects  of  interest 
and  attraction  to  be  found  accumulated  here. 

Before  going  to  the  interior  I  did  not  have  an  oppor- 
tunity of  satisfactorily  examining  the  paintings  and 
tomb  of  Columbus,  which  are  to  be  seen  in  the  world- 
renowned  Cathedral  of  San  Ignacio.  This  edifice  is 
near  the  governor's  palace.  Its  moss-covered  exterior 
makes  it  look  as  old  as  the  hills  and  rocks  by  which 
it  is  surrounded.  I  was  standing  in  front  of  the  old 
monastery  and  wondering  how  long  it  had  been  built, 
when  a  priest  came  out  of  a  side  gate,  and  I  asked 
him  the  question.  He  made  no  reply,  but  rang  a  bell, 
which  was  answered  by  an  intelligent  looking  negro 
man,  who  beckoned  me  to  follow  him.  We  went 
through  several  dark  rooms,  up  the  steps  and  down 
again.  I  did  not  know  but  that  he  was  leading  me 
6 


42  Cuban  Correspondence. 

to  the  hall  of  the  inquisition,  but  I  was  soon  relieved 
when  he  opened  a  large  back  door,  and  pointed  to  a 
white  marble  tablet  in  the  wall,  in  which  were  de- 
posited the  bones  of  one  of  the  greatest  men  that  ever 
lived. 

It  appears  that  the  priest  understood  me  as  wishing 
to  see  the  tomb  of  Columbus.  This,  certainly,  was 
my  desire  also,  but  he  failed  to  comprehend  my  ques- 
tion, put  in  broken  Spanish. 

The  discovery,  by  Columbus,  of  the  New  World, 
awakened  new  life  and  energy  in  the  Old,  and  has 
done  much,  very  much,  to  promote  and  spread  the 
Christian  religion.  The  young  mariner  seemed  in- 
spired with  a  belief  that  El  Dorado,  a  great  realm  of 
gold,  was  to  be  found  somewhere  in  the  West,  and  he 
could  not  rest  until  he  had  started  in  search  of  it. 
He  walked  from  court  to  court,  pleading  for  means  to 
carry  into  effect  his  cherished  object.  He  at  last 
attained  them.  See  him  on  the  broad  ocean,  with  his 
light  craft  and  mutinous  crew,  pushing  his  way  west- 
ward, in  strange  and  hitherto  unknown  and  unrecorded 
seas.  Columbus  was  a  brave,  bold,  adventurous  mari- 
ner. It  were  worth  a  long  life-time  of  toil  and  struggle 
to  enjoy  what  he  did  on  the  discovery  of  the  New 
World. 

Columbus  was  rewarded  with  chains,  and  received 
the  hisses  and  insults  of  the  rabble.  I  looked  with  all 
my  eyes  for  those  chains  which  others  had  seen  here, 
but  they  were  not  to  be  found.  Although  slandered, 
persecuted  and  abused  while  living,  posterity  seems 
ready  to  do   homage  to  his  memory,  by  erecting  a 


Cuban  Correspondence.  43 

magnificent  marble  monument,  which  is  nearly  com- 
pleted in  Genoa,  (his  native  city,)  and  will  soon  be 
erected  in  La  Plaza  here. 

I  spent  hours  within  the  sacred  walls  of  the  cathe- 
dral. It  is  ornamented  with  many  fine  paintings,  and 
the  dome  is  beautifully  decorated  with  figures  in 
fresco.  The  recesses  are  filled  with  shrines  of  various 
saints,  but  I  do  not  admire  this  style  of  architecture; 
it  always  reminds  me  of  the  wax  figures  I  used  to  see 
exhibited  by  itinerant  showmen.  The  high  ceiling  is 
supported  by  two  ranges  of  massive  columns ;  between 
these,  are  several  confessionals,  and  four  side  pulpits. 
From  the  latter,  priests  chant  sermons  in  Latin,  which 
very  few  of  the  hearers  understand.  I  ascended  one 
of  the  pulpits  and  made  the  old  walls  ring  with  a 
Protestant  voice.  My  guide  looked  very  much  fright- 
ened, and  was  preparing  to  take  French  leave,  and  as 
I  did  not  know  but  that  he  might  turn  the  key  on  me, 
I  went  with  him.  My  audience  was  deaf  and  dumb, 
so  I  could  not  expect  to  make  them  converts  to 
Protestantism. 

Oh,  what  a  blessed  thing  it  would  be,  if  our  eloquent 
ministers  could  stand  in  these  sanctuaries,  and  preach 
the  word  of  God  in  sincerity  and  truth  to  the  thou- 
sands of  immortal  beings,  who  confess  their  sins  to 
the  priests,  and  worship  images  made  by  men's  hands, 
instead  of  Christ,  who  died  that  they  might  live.  In- 
fidelity seems  to  have  taken  possession  of  the  people. 
They  are  not  allowed  to  read  or  interpret  the  Bible. 
The  more  I  see  of  Spanish  Romanism,  the  greater 
dread  I  have  of  its  cursing,  blighting,  and  contaminat- 


44  Cuban  Correspondence. 

ing  influence.  The  confessional,  the  sale  of  indul- 
gences, and  the  religion  which  teaches  that  money 
will  get  your  soul  out  of  purgatory,  are  all  bad,  bad! 
As^much  as  I  reverence  churches,  I  was  heartily  glad 
to  see  many  of  the  largest  here  taken  from  the  priests, 
and  converted  into  stores  of  merchandise. 

After  a  lapse  of  nearly  three  centuries,  the  bones  of 
Columbus  were  brought  from  Hispaniola,  in  1796,  at 
an  enormous  expense,  and  with  great  pomp  and  show, 
deposited  in  this  cathedral.  There  I  hope  they  will 
remain  long  after  Cuba  becomes  a  State  of  the  Ameri- 
can Union. 

Near  the  cathedral  is  the  celebrated  fish  market. 
It  is  nearly  two  hundred  feet  long,  with  a  marble  table 
extending  nearly  the  whole  length  of  the  building. 
Again  and  again,  have  I  visited  this  place,  being 
always  gratified  in  looking  at  the  fishes  of  beautiful 
colors  and  shapes.  I  suppose  the  Havana  fish  market 
is  unequalled  for  variety  and  quality.  It  is  a  govern- 
ment monopoly,  and  those  who  eat  fish  have  to  pay 
dearly  for  the  luxury.  A  notorious  pirate  by  the 
name  of  Masti,  Judas  like,  betrayed  his  party,  and 
was  rewarded  with  a  monopoly  of  the  sale  of  fish. 
For  twenty  years,  having  the  game  all  in  his  own 
hands,  he  realized  an  immense  fortune,  and  built  the 
Tacon  Theatre,  another  monopoly — which  is  said  to 
be  the  most  expensive  thing  of  the  kind  in  the  world, 
having  cost  two  hundred  and  fifty  thousand  dollars. 

When  a  mountain  boy,  I  read  thrilling  accounts  of 
Spanish  bull-fights,  and  wondered  if  they  could  be 
true.     Yesterday  I  had  an  opportunity  of  witnessing 


Cuban  Correspondence.  45 

with  mine  own  eyes  these  horrid  scenes.  For  the 
past  ten  days  little  else  has  been  talked  of  in  Havana 
but  the  great  bull-fight,  which  was  to  take  place  on 
the  first  $unday  in  March.  You  may  well  imagine 
that  my  "forty  days  dispensation"  did  not  entirely 
relieve  my  conscience,  to  allow  me  to  witness  a  bull- 
fight on  a  peaceful  Sabbath  day;  but  I  came  here  not 
to  make  things  as  I  would  have  them,  but  to  see  them 
as  they  really  exist.  The  arena  for  this  cruel  Cuban 
sport  is  well  selected,  as  it  is  in  the  old  town  of  Regla, 
across  the  harbor  from  Havana.  Regla  has  long  been 
the  haunt  of  pirates,  robbers  and  murderers,  and  is, 
consequently,  a  fit  place  for  bull-fights  and  bull-fight- 
ers. The  building  used  for  this  purpose  covers  half 
an  acre  of  ground.  The  seats  are  raised  one  above 
another,  after  the  fashion  of  circus  exhibitions  with 
us.  The  lower  tier  is  of  sufficient  height  to  protect 
you  from  the  sharp  horns  of  the  enraged  animals.  At 
the  shrill  blast  of  the  bugle,  a  wild  bull  rushes  into 
the  circle,  where  he  encounters  two  men  on  foot,  and 
two  on  horseback,  the  former  armed  with  swords,  the 
latter  with  spears.  They  begin  at  once  to  worry  the 
bull,  by  firing  spears,  with  rockets  attached,  into  his 
breast  and  side.  These  rockets  explode  in  his  flesh, 
burning,  lacerating,  and  enraging  the  poor  creature. 
The  horsemen's  spears,  were  also  thrust  into  his  flesh, 
while  crimson  colors  were  flaunted  before  his  fiery 
eyes.  In  a  short  time  the  creature  became  enraged 
and  frantically  mad,  and  would  plunge  first  at  the 
gladiators,  then  at  the  poor  blind-folded  horses,  pierc- 
ing his  sharp  horns  into  the  very  vitals  of  the  helpless 


46  Cuban  Correspondence. 

m 

animals.  At  this  juncture  the  men  on  foot  would 
plunge  their  swords  to  the  very  hilt  into  the  neck  of 
the  bull.  The  animal  would  stagger,  tremble  and  fall 
dead  at  their  feet,  amid  the  screams  and  yells  of  count- 
less men,  women  and  boys.  On  this  occasion,  there 
were  four  bulls  and  three  horses  killed,  and  one  of  the 
men  badly,  if  not  mortally  wounded.  I  saw  several 
women  eager  spectators  of  this  horrid  scene,  but  not 
a  lady.  So  far  as  I  can  learn,  few  persons  of  respecta- 
bility of  that  sex  attend  bull-fights  on  the  Island  of 
Cuba.  I  do  not  think  I  could  ever  be  tempted  to  wit- 
ness a  repetition  of  yesterday's  terrible  scenes  at  Regla. 
It  is,  however,  a  national  institution,  and  should  be 
witnessed  by  the  stranger.  In  Madrid,  it  is  said,  the 
queen  occupies  the  royal  box  at  the  bull-fights.  We 
should  not  be  surprised  that  the  virtuous  Queen  of 
Spain  patronized  such  savage  sports.  If  report  be  true, 
this  is  the  least  objectionable  part  of  her  conduct. 

I  have  visited  the  Castle  of  Atares,  where  the  brave 
Crittenden  and  party  were  shot.  Crittenden  was 
ordered  to  turn  his  back  to  the  soldiers,  and  kneel. 
He  replied  that  Americans  knelt  only  to  their  God, 
and  died  facing  the  enemy.  I  also  visited  the  fortress 
of  the  Punta,  where  General  Lopez  was  garroted.  He 
asked  to  be  shot,  but  Concha  inflicted  the  most  infa- 
mous punishment — the  garrote.  Lopez's  last  words 
were:  "I  die  for  my  beloved  Cuba,  dear  Cuba."  You 
may  next  hear  from  me  locked  up  in  the  Cabanas,  and 
waiting  my  turn  at  the  garrote.  Queen  sabe !  We 
shall  see.    '  G.  W.  W. 

Hairana,  March,  1856. 


LETTER    TENTH 


Moro   Castle    Visited — "Building"   up  a  Fortune — The 
American  Consul. 

Charles  III,  King  of  Spain,  was  one  day  observed 
to  be  looking  very  intently  through  his  spy-glass  in 
the  direction  of  Cuba.  Some  one  asked  his  majesty 
at  what  he  was  looking.  He  replied  at  Moro  Castle, 
and  the  Cabanas.  The  king  thought  that  fortifica- 
tions costing  so  much  money  ought  to  be  seen  from 
Madrid  to  Havana. 

My  curiosity  to  see  and  examine  these  strong  forti- 
fications was  very  great,  and,  doubtless,  was  height- 
ened by  the  fact  that  the  Captain-General  had  given 
orders  that  no  American  should  be  permitted  to  enter 
their  walls.  This  edict  was  issued  in  consequence  of 
the  late  filibustering  movements  in  the  United  States. 
I  applied  to  my  Spanish,  Cuban  and  American  friends 
to  aid  me  in  procuring  a  permit,  but  without  success. 
I  then  went  to  our  consul,  Mr.  Robinson,  and  told  him 
that  the  only  favor  I  had  to  ask  of  him  was  to  pro- 
cure for  me  a  passport  from  the  Captain-General,  to 
visit  Moro  and  the  CabaHas. 

"My  dear  sir,  I  should  like  very  much  to  accommo- 
date you,  but  I  am  requested  not  even  to  make  an 
application  for  such  a  thing." 

This  looked  very  discouraging,  indeed,  but  I  had 
made  up  my  mind  to  go,  and  risk  the  consequences. 
I  took  the  precaution  to  inform  some  friends  of  my 


48  Cuban  Corresponde?icc. 

intentions,  and  told  them  if  I  did  not  return  in  proper 
season  to  the  hotel,  to  notify  Messrs.  D.  &  Co.,  and 
some  other  commercial  houses.  This  precaution 
taken,  I  went  to  the  harbor  opposite  the  gate,  lead- 
ing into  the  fortifications,  and  hired  a  boatman  to  row 
me  over.  Landed  safely  on  the  opposite  shore,  I 
began  the  ascent.  As  I  was  climbing  the  steep  hill, 
and  saw  the  armed  soldiers  awaiting  my  arrival,  my 
heart  beat  rather  faster  than  usual;  but  I  knew  if  I 
faltered,  "Gibraltar"  could  not  be  taken;  so  on  and 
upward  I  marched.  Just  in  front  of  the  gate  stood 
the  watchful  sentinels.  As  I  was  about  to  pass  them, 
they  cried  out, 

"  Qiiien  vivef"  "who  goes?" 

I  drew  from  my  pocket  a  couple  of  letters,  held 
them  up,  bowed  and  passed  in.  And  now  I  felt  that 
the  enemy  was  "surrounded,"  and  I  breathed  easier. 

In  every  direction  you  could  see  the  busy  soldier. 
Standing  on  the  walls  were  men  blowing  the  war 
trumpet,  which  was  the  signal  for  the  soldiers  to  turn 
out  for  general  parade.  Some  four  thousand  made 
their  appearance,  and  marched  to  the  open  field  in 
rear  of  the  fortifications.  '  I  went  down  to  view  them, 
and  was  saluted  by  the  officers.  I  spent  an  hour  in 
seeing  them  drilled,  and  then  continued  my  visit 
through  the  fortress.  I  should  pronounce  Moro 
Castle  and  the  Cabanas,  in  the  possession  of  the 
Americans,  impregnable;  but  in  the  hands  of  the  flat- 
headed  Spanish  soldiers  it  could  be  taken  in  forty- 
eight  hours.  The  weak  point  in  the  fortifications  is 
in  the  rear.     The  walls,  which  are  of  immense  thick- 


Cuban  Correspondence.  49 

ness  and  height,  are  built  of  soft  limestone,  and 
would  not  stand  long  under  heavy  cannonading.  The 
soldiers  look  clean,  and  their  quarters  are  very  com- 
fortable; but  I  never  before  saw  so  many  idiotic  coun- 
tenances outside  of  a  mad-house.  Several  hundred 
criminals  were  at  work,  loaded  with  heavy  chains. 
Within  the  massive  walls  of  Moro  Castle  are  dun- 
geons for  prisoners,  who  are  under  sentence  for  the 
garrote  or  the  galley.  These  poor  creatures  present 
a  piteous  spectacle. 

From  the  Castle  of  Moro,  which  stands  proudly  on 
its  craggy  eminence,  you  have  a  magnificent  view  of 
Havana  and  its  beautiful  harbor,  filled  with  hundreds 
of  vessels,  also  of  the  deep  blue  sea,  bearing  on  its 
restless  bosom  the  ships  of  nearly  every  nation. 
Near  the  top  of  the  castle  is  a  very  large  telescope, 
through  which  an  enemy's  war  ship  can  be  seen  at  a 
great  distance.  From  this  point  a  signal  may  be 
given,  and  by  means  of  mirrors  placed  on  the  top  of 
the  high  houses  in  Havana,  which  reflect  these  signals, 
the  intelligence  is  thus  spread  throughout  the  city, 
with  telegraphic  swiftness.  This  arrangement  is  so 
perfected,  that  the  merchant  sits  in  his  counting-room, 
and  has  but  to  look  at  the  mirror  in  his  clock,  to 
know  what  vessels  are  in  sight  of  Moro  Castle. 

It  is  a  grand  sight  to  see  the  waves  with  their  un- 
dulating swell,  come  dashing  against  the  foundation 
of  old  Moro,  sending  their  spray,  thirty  feet  high. 
The  Gulf  Stream  is  so  clear  you  can  see  the  rain- 
bow-colored fishes  playing  through  the  blue  water  a 
hundred  feet  below.  I  selected  a  fine  point  for  obser- 
7 


50  Cuban  Correspondence. 

vation,  and  was  taking  sketches  in  my  note  book, 
when  I  saw  at  a  distance  some  officers  eying  me 
rather  closely,  and  they  dispatched  a  number  of  sol- 
diers in  that  direction.  I  quietly  changed  my  position, 
and  escaped  their  closer  attentions.  I  have  no  desire 
to  take  my  turn  at  the  garrote. 

Since  my  arrival  in  Cuba,  I  have  visited  no  place  of 
such  deep  and  thrilling  interest  to  me  as  this  fortress. 
But  I  cannot  imagine  how  they  have  expended  upon 
it  fifty  to  seventy  millions  of  dollars;  unless  they 
profited  by  the  advice  of  an  old  Spaniard  to  his 
nephew,  who  was  sent  from  Spain  to  Havana  by  the 
government,  with  a  salary  insufficient  to  support  him 
in  that  expensive  city.  He  wrote  to  his  uncle,  urging 
an  increase  in  his  salary.  The  uncle  replied,  making 
no  allusion  to  the  request ;  but  at  the  bottom  of  his 
letter  was  written  the  word  "build."  The  poor  fellow 
was  nearly  ready  to  starve,  and  how  could  he  build? 
He  wrote  again  and  again,  and  that  mysterious  word 
was  at  the  bottom  of  each  of  his  uncle's  letters.  He 
asked  a  friend  if  he  could  explain  that  word,  and  was 
informed  that  those  who  let  out  government  contracts 
received  a  large  share  of  the  profits,  and  in  that  way 
realized  fortunes.  The  young  man  took  the  hint, 
went  to  building,  and  troubled  his  uncle  no  more 
about  his  salary.  It  has  occurred  to  me  that  there  is 
considerable  "building"  going  on  among  our  govern- 
ment officials,  and  they,  no  doubt,  find  it  quite  profita- 
ble. I  think  they  ought  to  give  the  American  Consul 
an  opportunity  of  letting  out  a  few  contracts,  or  in- 
crease  his    salary ;    for   his    pay  is    not  sufficient  to 


Ciiban  Correspondence.  51 

support  a  free  negro  decently  in  this  expensive  city. 
And  would  you  believe  it,  the  representative  of  our 
great  American  Government  keeps  a  bread  bakery, 
and  lives,  and  eats,  and  sleeps  over  his  oven !  Is  not 
this  a  shame?  A  young  John  Bull  said  to  me  very 
sneeringly  one  day,  "we  give  Mr.  Crawford,  our 
consul,  twenty-five  thousand  dollars."  I  replied,  "yes, 
and  you  may  add,  also,  you  have  to  borrow  the 
money  to  pay  him  with."  I  could  not  but  think  of 
that  "eighteen  millions  of  dollars  surplus"  in  the 
treasury,  and  the  American  Consul  compelled  to  bake 
ginger  cakes  for  a  living !  I  found  Mr.  Robinson  a 
very  clever  gentleman,  disposed  to  do  his  utmost  for 
the  accommodation  and  comfort  of  his  countrymen; 
but  how  can  a  man  entertain  his  friends  without 
money?  Mr.  R.  has  a  clever  wife,  quite  young 
enough  to  be  his  daughter,  and  they  have  a  nice  little 
boy,  eight  years  old,  who  can  already  speak  four 
languages,  and  is  now  diving  into  Dutch.  But  I  am 
wandering.     Adieu.  G.  W.  W. 


LETTER    ELEVENTH 


A  Visit  to  Campo  Santo,  or  Havana  Cemetery. 

In  the  early  part  of  January,  1852,  when  the  Cali- 
fornia gold  fever  was  at  its  height  in  Georgia  and  the 
Carolinas,  about  twenty  young  men  formed  them- 
selves into  the  "  Nacoochee  Mining  Company."  Bid- 
ding adieu  to  dear  friends,  with  bright  expectations, 
they  started  for  the  land  of  gold,  hoping,  by  a  few 
years  of  hardship  and  privation  to  return  to  "  sweet 
home,"  rich  in  the  good  things  of  this  world. 

Alas,  for  human  hopes !  In  that  company  was  a 
much  loved  brother,  and  several  young  men,  the  play- 
mates of  my  youth.  They  passed  through  Augusta — 
my  home  at  that  time.  I  did  all  that  I  could  to 
persuade  my  brother  not  to  go ;  but  finding  my  argu- 
ments unsuccessful,  I  accompanied  him  to  Charleston, 
to  assist  in  his  departure.  There  we  found  persons 
from  all  sections  of  the  country  on  their  way  to  Cali- 
fornia— young  men  who  had  left  their  hearts  with  the 
blooming  daughters  of  the  mountains,  whose  hands 
they  were  to  claim  when  they  returned  with  their 
pockets  filled  with  dimes  and  dollars,  and  dollars  and 
dimes.  All  of  these  adventurers  were  to  go  as  far  as 
Havana,  in  the  Steamship  Isabel.  The  state-rooms 
were  engaged,  and  these  poor  fellows  had  to  be 
crowded  and  packed  together  in  the  bottom  of  the 
ship,  without  air,  light,  or  any  of  the  comforts  of  life. 
But  what  will  not  a  man  endure  for  gold  ! 


Cuban  Correspondence.  53 

When  they  reached  Havana  many  were  sick,  and 
one  of  my  young  friends  died.  To-day  I  thought  I 
would  see  where  they  had  buried  him. 

I  went,  and  Heaven  forbid  that  I  should  ever  look 
upon  such  a  scene  again !  The  cemetery  is  about 
three  miles  out,  and  laid  off  into  squares  of  an  acre 
each  ;  the  dividing  walls  are  wide  enough  on  each  side 
for  one  vault,  and  sufficiently  high  for  five.  In  these 
vaults  the  rich  saints  of  the  "holy  mother  church" 
are  placed  to  remain  ten  years.  If  the  friends  at  that 
time  are  unwilling,  or  cannot  afford  to  stand  another 
heavy  money  depletion,  the  remains  are  removed  and 
scattered  to  the  winds.  Heretic  gold  cannot  procure 
a  resting  place  in  any  of  these  vaults.  Do  you  wish  to 
know  what  they  do  with  the  poor  and  the  strangers 
who  die  here  ?  Ah,  this  is  the  heart-sickening  pic- 
ture ! 

When  I  entered  the  grounds,  I  observed  several 
negroes  digging  trenches,  about  two  feet  deep,  and  O, 
horror !  to  see  these  fellows  digging  up  the  bones  of 
human  beings,  scattering  them  in  every  direction,  the 
long  hair  and  grave  clothes  strewed  all  round — the 
sight  was  revolting.  I  had  not  been  there  long,  when 
I  saw  four  men  bearing  a  corpse  on  a  slight  frame. 
They  were  smoking  and  chatting  in  as  lively  a  mood 
as  if  on  their  way  to  a  wedding  party. 

The  corpse  was  that  of  a  young  woman;  her  clothes 
were  rent  and  she  was  pitched  into  the  trench  without 
ceremony.  There  was  no  one  to  shed  a  tear  over  her 
grave.  The  dead  are  not  buried  in  coffins ;  quick 
lime  is  applied  freely  to  promote  and  hasten  decom- 


54  Cuban  Correspondence. 

position.  The  clothes  are  torn  to  prevent  the  body 
from  being  taken  up.  Some  men  make  it  a  business 
to  hire  coffins  and  clothing  for  funeral  occasions. 

I  next  saw  six  men  bring  in  the  body  of  a  very  large 
man.  Some  difficulties  arose  among  the  "  undertak- 
ers," which  I  thought  would  end  in  a  fight.  A  third 
corpse  was  brought  and  deposited  in  a  shallow  pit. 

The  last  interment  was  that  of  a  little  girl.  Her 
beautiful  eyes  were  not  closed;  there  was  a  heavenly 
smile  on  her  sweet,  innocent  face;  she  had  left  earth 
before  becoming  contaminated  by  the  poison  of  the 
Old  Serpent.  I  thought  of  my  "lost  flowers,"  which 
were  nipped  in  the  bud  by  the  frosts  of  death,  and 
I  was  reminded  of  the  lines  composed  by  their 
grandfather : 

"  The  flowers  we  loved,  were  lent  us  for  a  day — 
So  sweetly  blooming,  yet  how  short  their  stay  ! 
Their  opening  charms  were  seen  with  fond  delight — 
So  fresh,  so  fair,  so  beautiful,  so  bright  I 
These  lovely  buds,  new  beauties  to  disclose, 
We  fondly  hoped  would  open  to  the  rose, 
And  these  fair  roses  grace  our  sweetest  bowers, 
Watered  by  early  dews,  and  softest  showers. 
We  held  them  to  our  hearts,  with  fondest  care, 
And  strove,  but  vainly  strove,  to  keep  them  there 
For,  in  fond  love's  devoted  arms  caress'd, 
Their  opening  beauties  withered  on  her  breast 
The  precious  boon,  we  could  no  longer  keep, 
They  felt  the  chilling  frost  and  fell  asleep — 
But  not  forever,  in  the  dust  to  lie. 
Oh,  no  I  the  stars  that  glitter  in  the  sky, 
Whisper  each  night  of  immortality ; 
The  bow  of  promise  drest  in  sweet  array, 
Tells  of  another  and  a  better  day  ; 


Cuban  Correspondence.  55 

Fair  Spring  shall  smiling  come,  with  odors  sweet, 

To  breathe  upon  the  flowers  beneath  her  feet  ; 

That  kiss  shall  life,  and  health,  and  joy  restore, 

And  in  fresh  beauty,  they  shall  fade  no  more. 

Sleep  on,  sleep  on,  pale  flowers,  and  take  your  rest, 

Soon  shall  ye  wake  in  heavenly  radiance  drest, 

Soon,  from  the  dust  more  beautiful  arise, 

To  sweetly  bloom  and  blossom  in  the  skies. 

"  Lost  flowers?"  Oh,  no  !  not  lost — we  part  in  pain, 

But,  in  a  little  while,  shall  meet  again. 

Ye  shall  be  "  Gathered  Flowerets"  to  abide 

In  that  sweet  Eden  by  the  river  side. 

We  hope  to  meet  you  in  that  blest  abode: 

The  Paradise  above,  the  Garden  of  our  God." 

Here,  in  Havana,  it  seems  that  the  friends  of  the 
dead  do  not  attend  the  corpse  to  the  grave.  The 
burials  are  left  to  cold,  heartless  "undertakers."  It  is 
enough  to  chill  one's  blood,  even  under  a  tropical  sun, 
to  witness  the  careless  and  indifferent  manner  in 
which  they  perform  their  duties.  With  us,  the  dark- 
ness of  the  tomb  is  illuminated  by  the  pleasing 
thought,  that  when  we  have  gone  down  into  the 
silence  of  death,  dear  friends  will  visit  our  graves,  and 
with  tender,  loving  hands  deck  our  beds  with  sweet 
flowers.  Having  seen  enough  of  the  "  resting"  place 
in  Havana,  I  returned  to  my  hotel,  and  gave  direction 
if  I  died  in  Cuba,  to  bury  me  in  the  sea — anywhere 
but  in  a  Catholic  cemetery. 

A  word  more  about  the  Nacoochee  Mining  Com- 
pany. My  brother  was  quite  ill  at  Panama,  but  left 
in  the  Sir  Charles  Napier,  for  San  Francisco.  The 
third  day  out  he  died,  and  was  buried  in  the  Pacific 
Ocean.     Very  few  of  this  hopeful  little  company  lived 


56  C  lib  an  Correspondence. 

to  return  to  their  homes.  Most  of  them  were  mem- 
bers of  the  church,  and  I  trust  Christians.  They  all 
had  their  Bibles  with  them,  when  they  left  Charleston. 
How  mysterious  are  the  ways  of  Providence !  Here 
was  a  company  of  religious  men,  who  might  have 
exerted  a  good,  virtuous  influence  in  that  land  of 
irreligion  and  wickedness;  but  God  knew  what  was 
best  for  them,  and  removed  them  ere  they  encountered 
the  temptations  of  their  new  home.  There  is  a  day 
coming,  when  we  shall  see  love  and  mercy  in  these 
sad  and  grievous  afflictions,  which  so  crush  and  over- 
whelm us  now.  O,  for  a  submissive  heart,  to  patiently 
await  that  day,  when  we  shall,  with  the  "lost  flowers," 
be  gathered  to  our  eternal  home,  there  to  abide  and 
rejoice  with  them  forever! 

G.  W.  W. 


LETTER    TWELFTH 


Closing  the  Correspondence — Tilings  Unwritten — Coming 
Home  —  Key  West  — ' '  Sponging  "  —  A  Storm — At 
Home. 

Lest  I  should  tire  you  and  others,  my  friend,  with 
my  "Cuban  Correspondence,"  I  propose  to  forego  all 
further  sight-seeing  for  the  present,  and  return  home. 
I  did  think  of  giving  an  account  of  the  vast  variety 
of  other  topics,  such  as  the  murder  of  Pinta — 
the  Santa  Clara  Nunnery — the  prison — a  visit  to 
Buenos  Ayres,  on  the  Cerro  road — a  party  at  the 
English  Consul's — a  visit  to  the  south  side  of  the 
Island — an  unsuccessful  attempt  to  visit  Yucatan — a 
visit  to  the  Isle  of  Pines  in  the  Caribbean  Sea,  and  the 
robbery  there  of  a  New  Orleans  acquaintance — King's 
day  in  Havana,  when  the  negroes  reign  supreme — 
of  the  splendid  mahogany  wharves,  a  mile  long, 
fastened  down  with  copper  rivets,  covered  the  whole 
length,  roof  supported  on  iron  posts.  Also,  a  word 
more  about  society  in  Cuba,  not  forgetting  the 
priests — its  climate — productions — population — gov- 
ernment— commerce — the  censors  of  the  press — the 
modern  slave-trade  of  Cuba — -black  soldiers — "snobs" 
among  the  sugar  noblemen — the  night-watch  and 
their  hideous  scream,  "  all  is  well,"  "no  fire,"  "  weather 
fair,"  "half-past  eleven  o'clock" — holding  lamps  at 
each  corner  of  the  streets,  giving  lights  for  the  rogues 
to  steal  by — the  hotels,  not  forgetting  our  landlord  and 
his  noisy  horses — what  the  "Queen  of  the  Antilles" 
8 


58  Cuban  Correspondence. 

will  be,  when  she  becomes  a  gem  of  the  Southern 
constellation,  and  other  matters — but,  in  charity  to 
you,  I  forbear.    These  topics  will  keep  till  I  go  home. 

Quitting  the  beautiful  Island  of  Cuba  is  like  taking 
leave  of  a  dear  friend.  In  her  genial  clime  my  health 
and  spirits  have  improved.  I  have  received  from 
strangers  much  kindness.  They  will  be  remembered 
by  me  with  gratitude.  It  was  my  intention  to  go 
from  Havana  to  New  Orleans,  and  then  up  the 
Mississippi  River,  but  when  the  Steamer  Isabel  ar- 
rived, I  could  not  resist  the  temptation  of  returning  in 
her.  The  agents,  Messrs.  Drake  &  Co.,  kindly  offered 
me  the  selection  of  a  state-room,  and  when  that  was 
secured,  I  was  impatient  to  be  off.  The  steamer  was 
to  sail  at  7  o'clock,  A.  M.  The  captain  gave  me  per- 
mission to  sleep  on  board,  but  a  friend  was  very  sick 
in  my  room,  and  I  remained  with  him.  At  day- 
light next  morning,  I  was  on  the  wharf  ready  to  be 
rowed  out  to  the  ship.  There  I  found  an  officer  who 
wished  to  see  how  much  of  La  Habana  I  was  taking 
off  with  me.  A  peso  quieted  his  curiosity,  I  jumped 
into  a  little  boat,  and  was  soon  on  board  the  favorite 
Isabel.  We  steamed  out  of  the  beautiful  harbor  quite 
early.  Nothing  can  exceed  the  scenery  presented  to 
our  view  between  Havana  and  the  point  of  the  Cape. 
It  was,  indeed,  painful  to  feel  that  I  was  leaving  these 
beautiful  shores,  perhaps  never  again  to  revisit  them. 

The  morning  was  lovely,  and  bright  as  our  own 
sweet  May.  The  blue  sea  sparkled  with  unusual 
lustre.  The  balmy  south  air  was  of  Cuban  purity 
and  clearness,     I  stood  silently  on  deck,  taking  a  last 


Cuban  Correspondence.  59 

long  look  at  Havana.  Farewell  to  thee,  bright  land 
of  flowers  and  sunshine ;  thy  rich  and  varied  beauties 
are  daguerreotyped  on  the  tablet  of  my  memory. 
When  far  away,  I  can  shut  my  eyes,  and  see  this 
lovely  panorama,  as  fadeless  as  memory  itself.  We 
passed  under  the  guns  of  the  Moro  and  Cabafias,  but 
feared  them  not,  as  the  stars  and  stripes  waved 
proudly  over  our  heads.  A  severe  "norther,"  which 
had  prevailed  for  several  days,  left  the  Gulf  Stream  in 
great  commotion.  Very  soon  nearly  every  passenger 
was  sick — sick. 

At  4  P.  M.,  we  arrived  at  Key  West.  I  wished  to 
show  some  friends,  and  a  German  count,  our  tropical 
town.  We  passed  through  the  principal  streets,  and 
stopped  at  a  store  to  buy  some  sponge,  which  is  col- 
lected here  in  large  quantities,  and  is  of  superior 
quality. 

It  is  said  by  naturalists  that  these  sponges  are  pro- 
duced by  minute  sea  animals  called  polypi ;  they  are, 
therefore,  analogous  in  their  origin  to  coral,  though 
quite  different  in  their  nature. 

I  had  selected  a  very  fine  specimen,  but  before  I 
could  pay  for  it,  the  signal  for  the  departure  of  our 
steamer  was  given,  and  we  arrived  just  as  they  were 
removing  the  last  plank.  The  owner  of  the  sponge 
followed  us,  and  brought  the  piece  I  had  selected. 
My  German    companion  appropriated   it  to  himself. 

When  this  gentleman  (?)  arrived  in  Havana  sick,  I 
gave  him  my  room — before  knowing,  however,  that 
he  belonged  to  the  nobility  ;  but  when  he  took  the 
sponge  I  had  selected,  I  came  to  the  conclusion  that, 


60  Cuban   Correspondence. 

count  or  king,  he  did  not  know  what  politeness  was; 
so  I  cut  his  acquaintance,  and  did  not  show  him  the 
Queen  City,  as  I  had  intended  to  do.  There  is  a 
disposition  among  us  republicans  to  court  the  society 
of  the  European  nobility,  and  we  often  get  well 
sponged  for  our  trouble  and  snobbishness.  It  is 
surprising,  in  a  country  on  whose  banner  is  inscribed 
"honor  and  shame  from  no  condition  rise,"  to  see  the 
vast  deal  of  truckling  there  is  to  titled  aristocracy, 
regardless  of  merit  or  virtue. 

The  day  after  leaving  Key  West,  dark  clouds  began 
to  gather  in  the  north,  and  our  captain  watched  them 
with  marked  anxiety.  But  he  is  an  old  sailor,  and  has 
heard  loud  thunder,  and  has  seen  storms  and  clouds 
before.  We  felt,  though  danger  might  surround  us 
while  winding  our  way  in  darkness  through  the  Flor- 
ida reefs  and  breakers,  that  our  commander  was  a 
man  of  tried  experience,  upon  whose  skill  and  judg- 
ment we  could  rely. 

At  12  o'clock  the  storm  had  increased  to  a  gale, 
the  ship  labored  heavily,  and  as  the  waves  would  dash 
over  the  deck,  she  groaned  and  trembled  in  every 
timber.  About  this  time  a  loud  crash  was  heard,  the 
furniture  was  overturned,  the  pictures  fell  to  the  floor, 
and  the  lamps  were  smashed  to  pieces,  leaving  us  in 
midnight  darkness.  A  few  screams  from  the  children, 
moanings  from  the  ladies,  and  prayers  from  the  men, 
and  all  was  comparatively  quiet — but  the  storm  con- 
tinued with  fury.  Our  noble  ship,  one  moment  riding 
on  top  of  a  mountain  billow,  and  then  hiding  below 
the  troubled  waves,  it  seemed  would  go  down  to  rise 


Cuban  Correspondence.  61 

no  more.  During  that  night  there  were  few  eyes 
closed  for  sleep.  I  went  on  deck  several  times  -to 
witness  the  sight,  which  was  awfully  sublime.  I  do 
not  say  that  I  was  alarmed  ;  but  I  certainly  should 
have  felt  much  safer  among  the  bears,  alligators,  and 
wild  Indians  in  the  most  dismal  swamp  on  the  Florida 
coast.  Morning  came,  and  the  storm  moderated,  but 
it  was  a  dark,  dismal  day. 

The  United  States  mail  and  several  Savannah  pas- 
sengers were  landed  near  Tybee,  in  a  heavy  rain.  I 
felt  sorry  for  the  ladies.  Here  we  got  the  first  glimpse 
of  the  beloved  Palmetto  State.  While  crossing  the 
Savannah  bar,  the  steamer  struck  several  times  heavily, 
causing  much  excitement  among  the  passengers,  but 
no  harm  was  done.  Monday  found  us  safely  in  the 
Charleston  harbor.  After  a  strict  examination  by  the 
customhouse  officers,  we  were  permitted  to  land 
among  the  cotton  bales,  which  lined  the  wharves  in 
every  direction.  Cotton  certainly  is  king  in  Charles- 
ton. I  got  into  a  carriage,  and  in  a  short  time  was 
safely  restored  to  my  own  dear  home.  There  I  found 
my  good  sister  and  darling  little  Willie.  "  What  did 
you  bring  for  me,  papa  ?"  "  I  brought  myself."  "  I'd 
rather  had  a  pony  !" 

G.  W.  W. 
Charleston,  S.  C,  March,  1856. 


SKETCHES 


WAYSIDE    TRAVEL, 


UNITED  STATES  AND  BRITISH  AMERICA. 


WAYSIDE     TRAVEL. 


LETTER    FIRST 


TJie  Advocate's  "  Cuban  Correspondent" — To  Baltimore 
— Methodism  in  Baltimore — The  "Quaker  City" — 
New  York— The  St.  Nicholas— Rev.  Mr.  Milbum— 
Politics. 

Your  "  Cuban  Correspondent"  is  again  on  the  wing, 
but  in  this  fast  country  there  is  no  Spanish  poco-a-poco 
movement.  One  travels  with  such  telegraphic  swift- 
ness, he  has  not  time  to  take  in  or  note  down  the 
thousand  and  one  objects  of  interest  that  surround 
him  on  every  side.  A  railroad  ride  from  Charleston 
to  Norfolk  furnishes,  to  a  lover  of  nature,  much  to 
admire.  The  moss-clad  swamps  of  the  Carolinas  and 
Virginia  are  peculiarly  interesting  to  me.  At  Ports- 
mouth, you  find  elegant  steamers,  and  after  twelve 
hours  pleasant  run,  you  are  safely  landed  in  the 
"  Monumental  City."  The  sound  of  the  various 
church  bells,  tells  you  that  it  is  Sunday  in  Baltimore ; 
and,  as  true  Wesleyan  Methodists  never  travel  on 
Sunday,  we  will  rest  here  and  go  to  the  house  of 
worship. 

The  Methodists  in  Maryland  are  head  and  should- 
ers above  all  other  Christian  denominations.  They 
have  fifty  churches  in  Baltimore  ;  but  is  it  not  marvel- 
9 


66  Wayside  Travel. 

lous  that  these  slaveholding  Methodists  should  adhere 
to  the  Church  North,  thereby  encouraging  the  abo- 
litionists ?  It  has  been  my  rule  to  judge  men  by  the 
company  they  keep.  Their  appeal  to  Southern  mer- 
chants to  patronize  "our  Southern  city,"  has  not  much 
merit  in  it.  I  had  rather  trade  with  an  avowed  enemy, 
than  a  pretended  friend.  If  those  who  live  South  of 
Mason  and  Dixon's  line  are  not  willing  to  support 
and  protect  Southern  institutions,  I  should  like  to  see 
the  line  moved  to  accommodate  them.  It  is  hard  to 
serve  two  masters. 

The  Methodists  of  Baltimore  have  some  fine 
churches.  Did  you  ever  hear  of  the  Charles  Street 
"silk-stocking"  Church?  It  is  pewed,  cushioned, 
"quired,"  and  organed.  The  angelic  portion  of  the 
congregation — don't  they  dress!  If  an  old  "Rip  Van 
Winkle"  Methodist  should  happen  to  wake  up  in 
one  of  the  splendid  churches  North,  and  see  the 
stained  glass,  velvet  carpets,  frescoed  wall,  and  hear 
the  organ — he  would  more  likely  conclude  he  was  in 
a  Catholic  Cathedral  than  in  a  Methodist  meeting- 
house. Well,  I  have  heard  this  was  a  fast  age,  and 
fast  people — and  it  is  said,  too,  this  is  a  wicked  world. 
Old  fogyism  would  say,  it  is  the  people  who  are 
wicked — but  I  have  not  done  with  these  Southern 
Methodists  with  Northern  principles.  You  would  sup- 
pose that  Christians,  whose  sympathies  are  so  great 
for  Africa,  would  have  a  careful  eye  to  the  spiritual 
welfare  of  her  people.  Their  love  (?)  for  the  negro 
has  driven  him  from  their  houses  of  worship — the 
simple  melody  of  the  slave  is  no  longer  music  to  their 


Wayside  Travel.  67 

refined  ears.  Our  old  Charleston  Trinity  Church  has 
more  colored  members  than  a  score  of  Baltimore 
churches,  and  when  you  cast  your  eye  to  the 
galleries,  the  blacks  are  not  there. 

Maryland  was  settled  by  Roman  Catholics.  The 
Cathedral  in  Baltimore  is  one  of  the  finest  churches  in 
the  United  States.  Baltimore  is  the  third  city  in  the 
Union,  finely  located  for  commerce,  and  is  improving 
rapidly.  You  have,  from  the  Washington  Monu- 
ment, a  magnificent  view  of  the  city  and  surrounding 
country. 

I  took  only  a  bird's-eye  view  of  the  "Quaker  City." 
It  is  a  clever  town,  and  looks  as  if  it  would  be  a  nice 
quiet  place  for  a  retired  gentleman  to  live  in. 

But,  ho  for  New  York!  *  Here  Young  America  is 
found  wide  awake !  One  continual  rush  from  early 
morn  till  late  at  night.  I  stopped  at  the  St.  Nicholas. 
It  is  the  great  Southern  house — the  depot  for  the 
belles  and  the  beaux.  Thackeray  pronounced  it  the 
finest  hotel  in  the  world !  The  furniture  cost  the 
snug  little  sum  of  half  a  million  dollars  !  The  silver 
plate  alone  cost  over  one  hundred  thousand !  The 
inhabitants  of  this  house  number  more  than  those  of 
most  of  our  Southern  towns.  We  Southerners  abuse 
the  Yankees  and  come  here  and  spend  our  money  as 
if  it  grew  on  trees.  There  is  nothing,  however,  like 
keeping  up  appearances. 

I  found  our  friend,  Milburn,  in  fine  health  and 
spirits,  and  I  am  now  enjoying  the  hospitalities  of 
his  kind  family.  They  are  pleasantly  situated  in  a 
desirable  part   of  the   city.     Mr.   M.   preaches   twice 


68  Wayside  Travel. 

every  Sabbath.  At  night  his  service  is  held  in  the 
Central  Methodist  Church,  and  he  commands  the 
largest  congregation  in  the  city.  The  aisles  are  filled 
with  chairs  and  benches  to  accommodate  the  people. 
Derby  &  Co.  are  publishing  his  "  Rifle,  Axe  and 
Saddlebags."  So  you  may  expect  soon  to  hear  the 
keen  sound  of  his  sharp  Rifle. 

There  is  considerable  political  excitement  here,  but 
they  find  it  an  up-hill  business  to  work  the  people  into 
enthusiasm  for  either  of  the  candidates.  The  Repub- 
licans think  Fremont  a  second  Washington] — an  im- 
provement, however,  on  the  old  General.  It  amuses 
me  to  see  inscribed  on  the  Fremont  banners,  "The 
Union  Candidate."  "The  Union  must  and  shall  be 
preserved."  It  is  thought  by  many  that  he  will  get  a 
large  majority  of  the  non-slaveholding  States.  This 
is  an  illustration  of  the  sad  effects  of  ministers  of  the 
gospel  converting  their  pulpits  into  political  rostrums. 
In  Fremont  you  have  a  fine  commentary  on  the 
treachery  of  political  demagogues.  It  is  said  that 
Fremont  was  born  in  Savannah,  the  son  of  a  French 
fiddler.  Brought  to  Charleston  when  a  child,  he  was 
reared  in  the  Orphan  House  of  that  city;  was  subse- 
quently taken  out  by  ex-Governor  Bennett,  and  edu- 
cated finally  at  the  Charleston  College.  Subsequently, 
his  promise  was  such,  that  Mr.  Poinsett,  then  Secretary 
of  War  of  the  United  States,  sent  him  to  West  Point. 
Here  you  see  a  native  born  Southerner,  the  child  of 
charity,  accorded  by  the  best  gentlemen  of  the  South 
the  education  and  all  the  advantages  which  should 
make   a  gentleman,  treacherously  turning   upon    his 


Wayside  Travel.  69 

benefactors  and  patrons,  his  native  State,  and  becom- 
ing the  sectional  candidate  of  an  extreme  ultra  fanati- 
cal party.  From  what  I  have  seen,  I  should  think  the 
philanthropists  would  find  quite  enough  to  do  in  min- 
istering to  the  distress  of  the  "Greeks"  at  their  own 
doors,  without  bothering  their  heads  about  the  well- 
fed  and  happy  Southern  negroes.  I  have  seen  more 
poverty  and  suffering  among  the  people  living  in  filthy 
cellars,  not  a  hundred  yards  from  Broadway,  than  I 
have  ever  witnessed  at  the  South;  and  the  district 
covered  by  the  "Five  Points,"  is  a  disgrace  to  the 
great  City  of  New  York — but  enough. 
Yours,  truly, 

G.  W.  W. 
New  York,  August  12,  1857. 


LETTER    SECOND 


Visit  to  Mount  Wasliington. 

After  nearly  three  months'  travel,  we  find  ourselves 
surrounded  by  the  White  Mountains  of  New  Hamp- 
shire. To-day  a  large  party  of  us  visited  Mount 
Washington,  that  contests  with  Black  Mountain,  N. 
C,  the  honor  of  being  the  highest  peak,  east  of  the 
Mississippi.  The  scenery  from  this  mountain  is  cer- 
tainly very  grand  and  beautiful;  but  I  think  greatly 
exaggerated.  The  ascent  is  difficult  and  dangerous, 
and  after  you  have  reached  the  summit,  you  find  your- 
self in  and  above  the  clouds,  and  shut  out  from  all 
views  below  and  around  you. 

When  our  party  left  the  Glen  House  (eight  miles 
from  the  summit)  it  was  pleasant  and  clear;  but  every 
mile  brought  us  nearer  and  nearer  the  frozen  regions, 
and  after  climbing  six  thousand  feet,  we  found  our- 
selves in  ice  and  sleet.  Neither  man  nor  beast  can 
stand  the  severity  of  the  winter  here.  A  large  sum 
has  been  offered  to  any  one  who  would  remain  in  the 
"Tip  Top"  house  during  the  winter  months  for  the 
purpose  of  "taking  observations;"  but  no  money-lov- 
ing Yankee  has  been  willing  to  contend  for  the  prize. 
As  the  thermometer  is  ten  degrees  below  freezing 
point  in  August,  you  must  know  mid-winter  is  con- 
siderably cooler. 


Wayside  Travel.  J\ 

I  suffered  more  from  cold  to-day  than  at  any  time 
last  winter.  The  wind  blew  a  gale  all  the  time.  The 
"Tip  Top"  house  is  built  of  stone  on  the  summit. 
Many  visitors  spend  the  night  there.  About  one 
hundred  and  fifty  of  us  got  a  respectable  dinner.  In 
one  end  of  the  building  they  keep  what  the  travellers 
call  "a  New  England  clock."  They  charge  you 
twenty-five  cents  for  the  privilege  of  winding  it  up, 
and  give  you  a  drink  of  whiskey  or  brandy  in  the 
bargain.  "Winding  the  clock"  seemed  a  favorite 
occupation  of  some  of  our  party. 

While  we  were  ascending  the  mountain,  we  passed 
quite  a  number  walking,  and  one  old  grey-headed  man 
found  the  task  too  great  for  his  strength,  and  gave  out, 
after  performing  two-thirds  of  the  journey.  Some 
laughed  at  him,  others  pitied  and  passed  on.  Dr.  L., 
of  South  Carolina,  dismounted,  and  placed  the  old  man 
on  his  horse,  and  "footed"  it  the  rest  of  the  way. 
Would  New  Hampshire  have  done  so  much  for  South 
Carolina? 

After  a  descent  of  two  miles,  we  get  below  the 
clouds  and  hazy  atmosphere,  and  then  have  a  very 
good  view  of  the  mountains  and  surrounding  coun- 
try; but  I  do  not  think  the  scenery  is  equal  to  Yonah 
or  the  peaks  of  the  Blue  Ridge  in  Georgia.  From 
Yonah,  you  have  in  one  direction  an  "ocean  view," 
that  I  did  not  find  here,  and  from  another  point  of 
Yonah,  you  have  a  succession  of  mountains  rising 
gradually,  until  they  seem  to  hide  their  heads  in  the 
very  skies.  Here  a  few  high  mountains  stand  out  in 
such  bold  relief  as  to  shut  out  all  else  beyond  them. 


J  2  Wayside  Travel. 

I  do  not  know  but  that  we  visited  the  White  Moun- 
tains under  rather  unfavorable  circumstances,  but  I 
have  yet  to  see  the  first  man  who  has  had  an  unob- 
structed view  from  them. 

After  a  tour  through  most  of  the  "free  States,"  we 
have  come  to  the  conclusion  that  a  wonderful  change 
has  come  over  the  people  on  the  subject  of  slavery. 
We  have  been  in  crowded  public  houses,  on  railroads 
and  steamboats,  in  private  families,  and  have  not  heard 
one  word  spoken  against  the  South  or  her  institu- 
tions. I  begin  to  think  the  Union  will  stand  as  long 
as  the  granite  mountains  of  New  Hampshire.  The 
free  negroes  found  that  they  could  make  more  by 
playing  "fugitive  slaves,"  than  working  with  their 
hands,  and  the  people  are  getting  their  eyes  open  to 
this  new  species  of  humbuggery,  and  are  heartily  sick 
of  it. 

The  New  England  States  are  far  from  being  pros- 
perous at  this  time.  The  South  and  great  West  are 
absorbing  their  capital  and  enterprising  men.  A  large 
amount  of  the  money  invested  in  railroads  and  manu- 
factures will  be  a  total  loss.  The  men  and  women 
have  to  work  hard,  live  poor,  and  avoid  debts,  or  they 
find  themselves  ruined.  The  women  of  the  North  are 
slaves  to  their  families,  and  I  think  have  a  much 
harder  time  than  the  men.  We  see  at  the  North 
much  to  admire  and  imitate,  but  I  was  never  better 
satisfied  with  the  South  than  I  am  now. 

August,  1857.  G.  W.  W. 


LETTER   THIRD. 


Visit  to  Canada — Quebec  and  its  Environs. 

A  traveller  from  the  Southern  States,  I  think,  will 
be  as  much  interested  with  Quebec  and  its  surround- 
ings as  any  city  he  may  visit — at  least  this  has  been 
our  experience.  It  is  unlike  any  American  town  I 
have  ever  seen,  and  may  truly  be  called  the  "Gibraltar 
of  America."  Quebec  is  indeed  a  well-fortified  city, 
being  encircled  by  huge  walls,  varying  from  twenty  to 
three  hundred  feet  in  height,  and  the  deadly  cannon 
faces  you  at  nearly  every  entrance.  The  "  red  coats," 
which  are  to  be  seen  in  all  directions,  remind  one  of 
the  American  Revolution. 

It  was  deeply  interesting  to  us  to  stand  on  the 
Plains  of  Abraham,  and  look  upon  the  battle-ground 
where  the  gallant  young  Wolfe,  one  hundred  years 
ago,  led  his  army  on  to  victory.  Two  brave  spirits 
met  and  fell  on  those  plains,  Montcalm  and  Wolfe, 
the  respective  commanders  of  the  French  and  Eng- 
lish forces.  General  Montcalm  received  a  mortal 
wound ;  and,  when  told  by  his  surgeon  that  he  could 
live  only  a  few  hours,  he  called  a  council  of  war,  and 
said  to  his  soldiers,  "  To  your  keeping  I  commend 
the  honor  of  France  ;  as  for  me,  I  must  pass  the  night 
with  God,  and  prepare  myself  for  death."  Wolfe  had 
received  two  wounds  ;  and,  while  making  the  last 
10 


74  Wayside  Travel. 

and  successful  charge  upon  the  enemy,  he  received  a 
mortal  wound  in  the  breast.  When  he  heard  that  the 
French  fled,  he  said,  "  Now,  God  be  praised,  I  die 
happy."  Thus,  at  the  early  age  of  thirty-five,  fell  a 
scholar  and  brave  commander,  in  the  hour  of  victory- 

In  the  battle-field,  on  the  spot  where  Wolfe  fell,  a 
monument  has  been  erected,  containing  the  simple 
inscription,  "  Here  died  Wolfe,  Victorious."  Near  by 
is  the  old  well  from  which  he  quenched  his  thirst  for 
the  last  time.  A  bucket  of  cool  water  was  drawn  from 
it  for  us,  and  our  party  drank  to  the  memory  of  Wolfe. 

You  will  not,  perhaps,  have  forgotten  the  memorable 
anecdote  told  of  Wolfe,  the  night  before  the  battle. 
While  crossing  the  river,  with  his  aids  around  him,  he 
repeated  the  famous  Elegy,  by  Gray,  "  written  in  a 
country  church-yard,"  saying,  at  the  close,  that  he 
would  rather  enjoy  the  fame  of  having  written  that 
poem,  than  that  of  conquering  Montcalm  on  the 
morrow. 

Montcalm  was  a  man  also  of  remarkable  intellectual 
and  moral  superiority.  He  was  at  once  a  warrior,  a 
statesman  and  a  patriot.  To  convince  you  of  this,  I 
subjoin  his  letter  to  M.  de  Mole,  President  of  Paris, 
almost  the  last  letter  from  his  pen,  which  will  wonder- 
fully illustrate  his  sagacity,  prophetic  foresight  and 
intrepid  patriotism.  The  letter  is  little  known  in  this 
country,  even  among  historical  students : 

Marquis  De  Montcalm  to  M.  De  Mole, 

First  President  of  the  Parliament  of  Paris. 

Dear  Cousin  :    For  more  than  three  months  Mr. 

Wolfe  has   been  hanging  on   my  hands.     He  bom- 


Wayside  Travel.  J  5 

bards  Quebec  night  and  day,  with  a  fury  of  which 
scarcely  an  example  can  be  found  in  the  siege  of 
a  place,  which  the  enemy  wishes  to  take  and  pre- 
serve. Their  artillery  has  already  destroyed  almost 
all  the  lower  town,  and  a  great  part  of  the  upper 
has  been  demolished  by  their  shells ;  but,  although 
not  one  stone  should  be  left  upon  another,  they  can 
never  carry  their  point  while  they  are  content  to 
attack  us  from  the  opposite  shore,  which  we  have 
abandoned. 

After  three  months  they  are  no  further  advanced 
with  the  siege  than  they  were  the  first  day.  They 
ruin  us,  but  do  not  profit  themselves. 

The  campaign  cannot  last  above  a  month  longer  on 
account  of  the  approach  of  autumn,  which  is  terrible 
to  a  fleet  in  these  seas,  as  the  winds  blow  constantly, 
periodically,  and  with  great  fury.  It  would  seem,  then, 
after  such  a  happy  prelude,  that  the  colony  is  not  in 
much  danger.     Nothing,  however,  is  less  certain. 

The  taking  of  Quebec  depends  on  one  masterly 
stroke.  The  English  are  masters  of  the  river ;  they 
have  only  to  effect  a  landing  on  that  part  of  it  where 
the  city  is  unfortified  and  defenceless.  They  are  in  a 
condition  to  give  us  battle,  which  I  must  not  refuse, 
and  cannot  hope  to  gain.  General  Wolfe,  indeed,  if 
he  understands  his  business,  has  only  to  receive  our 
first  fire,  and  then  advancing  briskly  on  my  army,  and 
giving  one  heavy  and  general  discharge,  my  Cana- 
dians, undisciplined,  deaf  to  the  sound  of  the  drum 
and  other  military  instruments,  and  thrown  into  dis- 
order by  the  slaughter,  will  no  longer  keep  their  ranks. 


7 6  Wayside  Travel. 

Besides,  they  have  no  bayonets  to  make  good  their 
ground  against  those  of  the  enemy.  Nothing  remains 
for  them  but  to  run,  and  thus  I  shall  be  totally  de- 
feated. 

Such  is  my  situation, — a  situation  most  grievous 
to  a  general,  and  which,  indeed,  gives  me  many  bitter 
moments.  The  confidence  I  have  in  these  views  has 
induced  me  always  to  act  on  the  defensive,  which  has 
hitherto  succeeded ;  but  will  it  succeed  in  the  end  ? 

The  event  must  decide.  But  of  one  thing  be  cer- 
tain, I  shall  not  survive  the  loss  of  the  colony.  There 
are  situations  in  which  it  only  remains  to  a  general  to 
fall  with  honor.  Such  this  appears  to  me ;  and  on 
this  point  posterity  shall  not  reproach  my  memory, 
though  fortune  may  decide  on  my  opinions.  These 
are  truly  French,  and  shall  be  so  even  in  the  grave, — 
if  in  the  grave  we  are  anything.  I  shall  at  least  con- 
sole myself  on  my  defeat  and  the  loss  of  the  colony, 
by  the  full  persuasion  that  this  defeat  will  one  day 
secure  my  country  more  than  a  victory,  and  that  the 
conqueror  in  aggrandizing  himself  will  find  his  tomb 
in  the  country  he  gains  from  us. 

What  I  have  here  advanced,  my  dear  cousin,  will 
appear  to  you  paradoxical ;  but  a  moment's  political 
reflection,  a  single  glance  upon  the  situation  of  affairs 
in  America,  and  the  truth  of  my  opinion  must  appear. 

No,  my  dear  cousin,  men  obey  only  force  and 
necessity ;  they  submit  when  armies  sufficient  to  con- 
trol them  are  before  their  eyes,  or  when  the  chain  of 
their  destiny  reminds  them  of  the  law.  Beyond  this 
they  yield  to   no  yoke  ;  they  act  for  themselves,  be- 


Wayside  Travel.  yy 

cause  nothing  external  or  internal  compels  them  to 
give  up  their  liberty,  which  is  the  greatest  ornament 
and  privilege  of  human  nature.  Scrutinize  mankind, 
and  the  English  above  all,  who,  whether  from  educa- 
tion or  sentiment,  are  on  this  point  more  men  than 
others.  Constraint  displeases  them ;  they  must  breathe 
free  and  unconfined  air,  or  they  are  out  of  their  ele- 
ment. But  if  this  is  the  genius  of  the  English  of 
Europe,  it  is  still' more  so  with  those  of  America.  A 
great  part  of  these  colonists  are  the  children  of  those 
men  who  emigrated  from  England  when  their  rights 
and  privileges  were  attacked  in  that  country,  then  torn 
by  dissensions.  They  went  to  America  in  search  of 
a  land  where  they  could  die  free  and  almost  inde- 
pendent, and  their  children  have  not  degenerated  from 
the  republican  principles  of  their  fathers. 

Others  there  are,  enemies  to  all  restraint  and  sub- 
mission, whom  the  government  has  transported  thither 
for  their  crimes.  Lastly,  there  are  others,  a  collec- 
tion from  the  different  nations  of  Europe,  who,  in 
their  hearts,  care  very  little  for  England.  All,  in 
general,  have  no  great  attachment  to  either  king  or 
Parliament. 

I  know  them  well ;  not  from  the  report  of  strangers, 
but  from  confidential  information  and  secret  corres- 
pondence, which  I  myself  managed,  and  which,  if  God 
spare  my  life,  I  will  one  day  turn  to  the  advantage  of 
my  country.  To  add  to  their  happiness,  the  planters 
have  attained  a  very  flourishing  condition ;  they  are 
numerous  and  rich  ;  they  enjoy,  in  the  bosom  of  their 
country,  all  the  necessaries  of  life. 


78  Wayside  Travel. 

England  has  been  so  weak  and  foolish  as  to  suffer 
them  to  establish  arts,  trade  and  manufactures,  and 
thereby  enabled  them  to  break  the  chain  of  necessity 
that  bound  them  to  and  made  them  dependent  on  her. 

All  the  English  colonies  would  long  since  have 
shaken  off  the  yoke,  and  each  province  formed  itself 
into  a  little  independent  republic,  if  the  fear  of  seeing 
the  French  at  their  door  had  not  been  a  check  upon 
them. 

Master  for  master,  they  prefer  their  own  country- 
men ;  their  favorite  maxim,  however,  being  to  obey 
as  little  as  possible.  But  when  Canada  shall  be  con- 
quered, and  the  Canadians  and  these  colonies  become 
one  people,  on  the  first  occasion,  when  England  strikes 
a  blow  at  their  interest,  do  you  believe,  my  dear 
cousin,  that  they  will  submit  ?  And  what  would  they 
have  to  fear  from  a  revolt  ?  Could  England  send  an 
army  of  a  hundred  or  two  hundred  thousand  men  to 
oppose  them  at  such  a  distance  ?  It  is  true,  she  pos- 
sesses a  fleet,  and  the  towns  of  North  America,  few 
in  number,  are  all  open,  without  citadels  or  fortifica- 
tions, and  a  small  naval  force  in  their  ports  would 
suffice  to  keep  them  in  their  duty.  But  the  interior 
of  the  country,  an  object  of  much  greater  importance, 
who  would  attempt  its  conquest,  over  rocks,  lakes, 
rivers,  woods  and  mountains,  intersecting  it  in  all  direc- 
tions, where  a  handful  of  men,  acquainted  with  the 
ground,  would  suffice  to  destroy  the  greatest  armies  ? 

Besides,  should  the  planters  be  able  to  bring  the 
savages  into  their  interests,  the  English,  with  all  their 
fleets,  might  be  masters  of  the  sea,  but  I  doubt 
whether  they  could  ever  make  good  a  landing. 


Wayside  Travel.  79 

Add  to  this,  that  in  case  of  a  general  revolt,  all  the 
powers  of  Europe,  secret  and  jealous  enemies  of 
England,  would  assist  them,  first  privately,  and  then 
openly,  to  throw  off  the  yoke. 

I  must  confess,  however,  that  England,  with  a  little 
policy,  might  always  keep  a  resource  to  assist  in  bring- 
ing her  colonies  to  reason.  Canada,  considered  in 
itself,  its  riches,  forces  and  population,  is  nothing 
compared  to  the  English  colonies.  But  the  valor, 
industry  and  fidelity  of  its  inhabitants,  so  well  supply 
the  place  of  numbers,  that,  for  more  than  an  age,  they 
have  fought  with  advantage  against  the  colonies. 
Ten  Canadians  are  a  match  for  a  hundred  English 
colonists. 

Daily  experience  shows  this  to  be  a  fact.  If  Eng- 
land, after  conquering  Canada,  knew  how  to  attach 
it  to  her  by  policy  and  kindness,  and  to  reserve  it  to 
herself  alone — if  she  left  the  inhabitants  their  religion, 
laws  and  language,  their  customs  and  ancient  form  of 
government — Canada,  separated  in  every  respect  from 
the  other  colonies,  would  never  enter  into  their  views 
or  interests,  were  it  from  the  difference  of  religion 
alone. 

But  this  is  not  the  policy  of  Britain.  If  the  Eng- 
lish make  a  conquest,  they  are  sure  to  change  the 
constitution  of  the  country,  and  introduce  their  own 
laws,  customs  and  religion,  which  they  impose,  at 
least,  under  the  pain  of  disqualification  for  office.  A 
persecution  more  intolerable  than  torments,  because 
it  attacks  men's  pride  and  ambition,  while  tortures 
affect  only  life,  which  these  passions  often  make  us 


8o  Wayside  Travel. 

.despise.  In  a  word,  are  you  conquered  by  English- 
men ?  you  must  become  Englishmen !  But  ought 
not  the  English  to  remember  that  the  heads  of  men 
are  not  all  alike,  much  less  their  minds?  Ought  they 
not  to  perceive  that  laws  should  be  suitable  to 
climates,  and  the  manners  of  the  people,  and  prudently 
varied  according  to  circumstances  ? 

Each  country  has  its  own  trees,  fruits  and  riches. 
To  transport  the  fruits  of  England  thither  would  be 
an  unpardonable  folly.  It  is  the  same  with  their  laws, 
which  ought  to  be  adapted  to  the  climate,  on  which 
men  themselves  so  much  depend.  This  is  a  policy 
which  the  English  do  not  understand  ;  or  rather  they 
understand  it  well,  (for  they  have  the  reputation  of  a 
thinking  people,)  but  they  cannot  adopt  it  from  the 
defects  of  their  own  constitution. 

Upon  this  account,  Canada,  once  taken  by  the  Eng- 
lish, would,  in  a  few  years,  suffer  much  from  being 
forced  to  become  English.  Thus  would  the  Canadians 
be  transformed  into  politicians,  merchants,  and  men 
infatuated  with  a  pretended  liberty,  which  among  the 
populace  of  England  often  sinks  into  licentiousness 
and  anarchy.  Farewell,  then,  to  their  valor,  simplicity, 
generosity,  respect  for  authority ;  farewell  to  their 
frugality,  obedience,  fidelity ;  they  would  soon  be  of 
no  use  to  England,  perhaps  even  oppose  her. 

I  am  so  clear  in  what  I  assert,  that  I  would  not 
give  more  than  ten  years  after  the  conquest  of  Canada 
to  see  it  accomplished. 

See,  then,  what  now  consoles  me  as  a  Frenchman, 
for  the  imminent  danger  my  country  runs  of  losing 


Wayside  Travel.  81 

this  colony ;  but,  as  a  general,  I  will  do  my  best  to 
preserve  it.  The  king,  my  master,  orders  me  to  do 
so  ;  that  is  sufficient. 

You  know  we  are  of  that  blood  which  was  always 
faithful  to  our  kings,  and  it  is  not  for  me  to  degenerate 
from  the  virtues  of  my  ancestors.  I  send  you  these 
reflections,  that,  jf  the  fate  of  arms  in  Europe  should 
ever  oblige  us  to  bend  and  receive  the  law,  you  may 
make  such  use  of  them  as  your  love  of  country  may 
direct. 

I  have  the  honor  to  be,  my  dear  cousin, 

Your  most  humble  servant, 

MONTCALM. 

Camp  before  Quebec,  August  24,  1759. 

No  one  from  the  "  States  "  will  visit  Quebec  with- 
out looking  with  more  than  ordinary  interest  upon 
that  steep  and  rugged  hill  where  the  lamented  Mont- 
gomery fell,  sword  in  hand,  in  1775.  It  was  in  the 
same  memorable  battle  that  Arnold  was  shot  in  the 
knee  ; — far  better  would  it  have  been  for  him  and  his 
country  if  the  ball  had  entered  his  heart !  Arnold 
was  a  brave,  bold,  but  calculating,  selfish  man,  who 
for  money  was  willing  to  barter  away  his  country. 
Let  his  fate  be  remembered  by  all  who  would  sacri- 
fice principle  for  "  filthy  lucre." 

Quebec  naturally  presents  more  the  appearance  of 
a  French  than  of  an  American  city.  The  same  old 
walls  and  low,  one-story  stone  houses,  with  their 
sharp  roofs,  that  were  standing  when  Wolfe  and 
Montgomery  fell,  are  here  yet ;  and  the  old  "  ca- 
lashes," such  as  were  brought  over  by  the  Pilgrim 
11 


82  Wayside  Travel. 

Fathers,  are  still  in  use.  I  went  out  to  hire  a  carriage, 
and,  to  my  surprise,  scarcely  any  of  the  drivers  could 
speak  English.  I  succeeded  finally  in  finding  one, 
who  said,  "  May  it  plaze  yer  'onor,  I  spakes  nootheng 
boot  Hanglish."  I  made  a  bargain  with  him,  and  got 
more  "  Hanglish  "  than  I  contracted  for. 

After  procuring  a  permit,  we  started  in  search  of 
the  various  points  of  attraction.  From  the  citadel  we 
had  a  splendid  view  of  Quebec,  Point  Levi,  Orleans 
and  the  surrounding  country.  This  fortification  covers 
forty  acres  of  ground,  is  protected  by  immense  walls, 
and  is  entered  through  five  gates  from  different  points. 
These  gates  are  made  of  large  iron  chains.  I  did  not 
find  as  much  difficulty  in  getting  admission  into  this 
fortification  as  into  Moro  Castle.  The  old  French 
Cathedral,  with  its  statuary  and  paintings,  is  worthy 
of  a  visit.  I  have  observed  that  a  large  proportion 
of  the  Roman  Catholic  paintings  have  reference  to 
Christ  and  his  crucifixion.  The  Wesleyans  have  some 
handsome  churches  here  also.  We  drove  eight  miles 
through  a  Canadian-French  village  to  the  Falls  of 
Montmorenci.  The  fall  is  said  to  be  two  hundred  feet 
higher  than  that  of  Niagara.  It  is  certainly  very 
beautiful ;  a  suspension  bridge  which  was  built  over 
it,  fell  last  year,  carrying  with  it  several  persons,  who 
were  dashed  to  pieces  on  the  rocks  below.  The  road 
for  eight  miles  on  either  side  is  lined  with  small 
French  stone  houses.  These  people  seem  to  pre- 
serve their  national  characteristics.  They  are  much 
more  cleanly  and  industrious  than  I  expected  to  see 
them.     The  women  work   on  the  small   farms,  with 


Wayside  Travel.  83 

their  heads  covered  by  broad-brimmed  hats.  From 
the  proceeds  of  these  farms  many  of  them  grow  rich. 
They  are  mostly  Roman  Catholics,  and  are  a  careful, 
economical  people. 

The  St.  Lawrence  is  a  noble  stream.  The  largest 
ships  come  to  the  City  of  Quebec  without  difficulty, 
and  vessels  of  six  hundred  tons  go  to  Montreal,  one 
hundred  and  eighty  miles  above.  This  magnificent 
river  drains  the  vast  lakes  and  inland  seas.  Quebec 
is  now  connected  with  Portland,  Maine,  and  Detroit, 
in  the  West,  by  the  "  Grand  Trunk  Railroad."  The 
Canada  railroads  are  the  broadest  I  have  ever  seen, 
and  they  move  on  them  with  a  rapidity  that  I  admire. 
From  here  we  go  to  Montreal,  and  thence  to  Toronto, 
in  Canada  West,  now  the  capital. 

G.  W.  W. 

Quebec,  August  27,  1857. 


LETTER    FOURTH 


A  Trip  from  Quebec  to  Niagara  Falls. 

Bidding  adieu  to  the  antique  and  picturesque  City 
of  Quebec,  we  went  on  board  the  fine  steamer  Napo- 
leon, which  was  to  sail  at  4  o'clock,  P.  M.,  for  Mon- 
treal. The  St.  Lawrence  is  a  magnificent  river,  and 
boasts  of  some  of  the  best  steamers  on  the  American 
waters,  but  recently  they  have  met  with  frightful  acci- 
dents and  great  loss  of  life.  I  was  surprised  to  see 
so  much  shipping  in  this  out-of-the-way  city.  The 
river  was  filled  with  sail  vessels  and  steamers  from  the 
Atlantic,  floating  palaces  and  propellers  for  the  river 
and  lake  navigation  of  the  far  West. 

The  lumber  trade  is  carried  on  extensively  here. 
For  many  miles  above  Quebec  the  shore  is  covered 
by  rafts  of  timber  ready  for  shipment.  An  hour's 
sail  brought  us  to  the  wreck  of  the  ill-fated  steamer 
Montreal,  which  was  recently  burnt,  and  some  two 
hundred  and  fifty  persons  perished.  The  captain, 
mate  and  owners  are  all  in  prison,  and  will  doubtless 
be  hung ;  but  that  will  not  restore  to  the  distressed 
families  their  lost  friends.  It  is  said  the  captain  had 
been  "  winding  the  clock "  too  often,  and  was  not 
in  a  condition,  when  the  ship  was  found  to  be  on 
fire,  to  give  the  necessary  orders.  They  were  within 
fifty  yards  of  the  shore,  and  if  they  had  steered  for 


Wayside  Travel.  85 

land,  every  soul  might  have  been  saved.  The  cap- 
tain of  our  boat  saw  the  flames  and  went  at  once  to 
their  relief,  and  succeeded  in  saving  one  hundred  and 
twenty-five  passengers  from  the  burning  steamer.  We 
have  a  "clock"  on  board  the  Napoleon,  and  our  cap- 
tain's nose  looks  rather  red,  but  that  is  not  always  a 
sure  sign  that  a  man  drinks.  I  certainly  should  feel 
more  secure  if  there  was  no  liquor  on  board;  but  you 
find  the  destructive  "fire  water"  in  all  the  hotels  and 
steamboats:  even  down  in  the  good  old  temperance 
State  of  Maine,  I  saw  more  barrels  branded  "Pure 
New  England  Rum"  than  I  thought  the  health  of 
the  people  required.  You  know  they  are  allowed 
to  take  it  medicinally.  Spirituous  liquors  are  the 
curse  of  our  country,  North  and  South,  spite  of  their 
medical  properties. 

Well,  we  are  at  Montreal.  How  very  different  from 
Quebec.  The  Anglo-Saxon  energy  and  activity  is  per- 
ceptible here  in  every  thing.  This  is  the  largest  city 
in  British  America,  and  presents  a  fine  appearance  as 
you  approach  it  from  the  river.  The  wharves  are 
built  of  rock,  and  are  the  most  substantial  I  ever  saw. 
The  situation  of  Montreal,  at  the  head  of  ship  naviga- 
tion, gives  her  fine  advantages  for  trade  and  commerce. 
The  Grand  Trunk  Road  runs  daily  to  Portland,  Me., 
and  this  company  have  a  line  of  steamers  running  to 
Boston  and  New  York,  and  various  ports  in  Europe. 
The  city  is  also  connected  with  the  West  by  railroads 
and  lake  steamers.  The  surrounding  country  is  very 
rich  and  productive,  and  I  see  no  reason  why  Montreal 
should  not  be  one  of  the  great  cities  of  America. 


86  Wayside  Travel. 

The  Victoria  Bridge,  over  the  St.  Lawrence,  is  two 
miles  long  and  is  a  gigantic  work.  It  will  cost,  when 
completed,  some  ten  millions  of  dollars.  It  is  built  on 
the  tubular  principle,  having  a  railroad  track  through 
the  centre.  On  the  outside  of  the  tube  there  will  be 
a  way  for  foot  passengers. 

The  French  Cathedral  here  is  an  immense  building, 
constructed  in  the  Gothic  style.  It  has  six  towers. 
The  views  from  them  are  very  beautiful.  The  church 
can  accommodate  twelve  thousand  persons. 

We  visited  the  Grey  Nunnery,  and  were  shown  into 
the  hospital,  containing  some  two  hundred  persons, 
sick  with  all  imaginable  diseases.  We  did  not  remain 
long  in  that  loathsome  place,  as  an  acquaintance  of 
ours,  a  few  years  since,  visited  this  same  establish- 
ment, and  contracted  the  small  pox.  I  am  surprised 
at  their  admitting  strangers  into  such  a  place ;  but  it 
is  quite  as  surprising  that  strangers  should  desire  ad- 
mittance. The  foundling  department  of  the  nunnery 
is  interesting.  The  "Sisters"  seem  to  be  very  suc- 
cessful in  finding  children,  for  they  have  some  three 
hundred  little  ones  under  their  care. 

It  was  a  beautiful  morning  in  September,  when  we 
tool-  the  train  from  Montreal  for  the  Falls  of  Niagara. 
The  foliage  on  the  route  was  in  the  full  flush  of  au- 
tumnal glory,  which  makes  September  so  lovely  in 
Canada.  The  maple,  oaks,  alanthis,  and  the  elm, 
were  in  their  splendor.  Many  of  the  leaves  of  the 
forest  trees  are  turned  to  blood-red  color  by  the  first 
touch  of  autumnal  frosts.  Twelve  hours  swift  railway 
travel  through  a  fine  country,  and  we  are  safely  landed 


Wayside  Travel.  87 

at  Toronto.  This  is  the  largest  city  in  Canada  West, 
and  is  now  the  seat  of  government.  Toronto  is  five 
hundred  miles  from  Quebec,  situated  on  Lake  Ontario. 
We  find  the  country  here  as  flat  as  the  piny-woods  of 
the  Carolinas.  About  Coburg  they  have  the  best  farm- 
ing country  I  have  seen  in  Canada.  The  railroad  runs 
for  several  hundred  miles  along  the  shore  of  Lake  On- 
tario. There  is  not  as  much  shipping  on  the  lake  as 
I  expected  to  see.  Toronto  is  a  flourishing  city,  with 
forty-five  thousand  inhabitants.  Fifty  years  ago  its 
population  consisted  of  two  Indian  families.  We  saw 
here  what  I  never  expected  to  witness  on  the  Ameri- 
can continent — a  white  lady  (?)  married  to  a  flat  nose, 
unadulterated,  black  negro.  The  woman  was  about 
twenty-five  years  old,  and  rather  good  looking ;  the 
man  forty,  and  as  ugly  a  darkey  as  you  ever  saw.  An 
Anglo-African,  six  months  old,  was  the  result  of  the 
happy  union.  I  asked  her  why  she  married  a  negro. 
The  reply  was,  that  she  was  not  the  first  white  woman 
in  Canada  who  had  married  a  colored  man — that  it 
was  a  common  occurrence.  Upon  further  inquiry,  I 
learned  that  intermarriage  between  the  whites  and 
blacks  seldom  occurred.  The  Canadians  are  getting 
heartily  sick  of  the  hordes  of  "fugitive  slaves,"  whom 
the  abolitionists  from  the  United  States  have  run  over 
there;  and  the  government  is  taking  active  measures 
to  get  rid  of  their  negro  population.  How  to  dispose 
of  them  is  a  grave  question.  The  non-slaveholding 
States  have  shut  their  doors  against  them.  The  truth 
is,  the  African,  like  cotton,  rice  and  sugar,  will  not 
flourish  north  of  Mason  and  Dixon's  line.     The  ne- 


88  Wayside  Travel. 

groes  look  like  a  poor,  cast-off,  forsaken  race ;  and 
the  severe  winters  are  sending  many  of  them  to  an 
underground  road,  where  they  will  remain  until  the 
last  day.  When  I  saw  so  many  wretched  negroes 
without  homes,  and  excluded  from  their  churches, 
railroads  and  omnibuses,  I  thought  of  our  Methodist 
Churches  in  Charleston,  with  their  six  thousand  happy 
colored  members,  and  of  our  noble  missionaries  who 
jeopard  their  lives  in  travelling  through  the  rice 
swamps,  exposing  themselves  to  the  deadly  miasma, 
to  preach  Christ  and  Him  crucified  to  the  slave.  How 
different  from  the  abolitionists,  who  do  all  in  their 
power  to  seduce  the  slaves  from  their  comfortable 
homes,  and  then  abandon  them  to  want  and  misery. 
This  is  abolition  consistency!  "Bleeding  Kansas" 
has  been  a  rich  theme  for  these  underground  thieves, 
and  scores  of  honest-hearted  men  and  women  have 
been  "bled"  to  feather  the  pockets  of  these  swindling 
imposters. 

In  a  few  hours  we  leave  for  Hamilton — and  here  we 
are  at  Niagara.     What  a  fall,  my  countrymen ! 
Truly  yours, 

G.  W.  W. 

Niagara  Falls,  September,  1857. 


LETTER    FIFTH 


Falls  of  Niagara — The  Lakes — The  Rapids — Table 
Rock — Suspension  Bridge — Prospect  Tower — Steamer 
Detroit — BcJdnd  the  Horseshoe — Brainard's  Poem. 

Gentle  reader,  have  you  ever  visited  the  Falls  of 
Niagara  ?  If  so,  then  I  shall  offer  no  apology  for  not 
attempting  to  describe  the  greatest  natural  wonder  of 
the  Western  World. 

This  most  stupendous  cataract,  with  its  ceaseless 
roar,  perfectly  overpowers  all  my  senses.  I  stand 
awe-struck  when  I  gaze  upon  the  raging,  thundering 
waters,  as  they  come  dashing  and  tumbling  down  into 
the  yawning  abyss.  Man,  as  he  looks  upon  this 
awfully  grand  sight,  realizes  his  littleness.  In  this 
creation's  wonder,  he  is  compelled  to  feel  and 
acknowledge  the  hand  of  a  Master  Architect,  and 
that  "God  is  great!"  We  stood  with  mingled  awe 
and  admiration  as  we  gazed  on  this  world's  wonder. 

It  was  after  sunset  when  we  arrived  at  Niagara,  but 
it  was  full  moon,  and  I  shall  never  forget  my  feel- 
ings as  our  party  stood  almost  speechless,  beholding 
by  moonlight  this  sublime  picture.  The  waters  fran- 
tically rushed  over  the  precipice,  falling  nearly  two 
hundred  feet  in  perpendicular  height.  This  was  our 
first  sight  of  the  lunar  bow. 

These  waters  overflow  from  the  immense  lakes  of 
Superior,    Michigan,    Huron    and    Erie,    discharging 
themselves  through  the  Niagara  into  Lake  Ontario. 
12 


go  Wayside  Travel. 

For  nearly  a  mile  the  river  races  over  an  incline 
of  sixty  feet  descent.  Above  the  rapids  the  river  is 
as  tranquil  and  smooth  as  a  lake. 

Goat  Island,  which  is  a  quarter  of  a  mile  wide  and 
half  a  mile  long,  is  a  charming  spot,  covered  with  a 
forest  of  trees,  shrubs  and  flowers,  and  lovely  enough, 
I  think,  to  have  a  prettier  name.  It  extends  to  the 
brink  of  the  precipice,  and  divides  the  falls  into  two 
portions.  The  highest  fall  is  on  the  American  side, 
but  the  great  body  of  water  is  on  the  Canadian. 

Table  Rock  is  quite  a  resort  for  visitors.  Our  party 
sat  for  nearly  an  hour  near  the  great  cataract,  and 
watched  the  moon's  calm,  cold  beams  falling  upon 
the  maelstrom  of  ever-running  waters  over  the  steep 
precipice. 

We  also  stood  on  the  frail  bridge  leading  to -Goat 
Island.  Here  you  have  a  fine  view  of  the  Rapids. 
We  looked  at  the  rushing  water,  as  it  came  for  nearly 
half  a  mile  over  the  rocks  with  the  impetuosity  of  a 
hurricane,  leaping  faster,  swifter  and  more  turbulent 
before  taking  its  last  long  leap  into  the  eternal  sea. 
These  are  scarcely  less  interesting  than  the  Falls 
themselves. 

Below  the  cataract,  the  river  runs  between  cliffs 
several  hundred  feet  high,  and  with  great  force.  No 
one  knows  how  much  of  this  chasm  has  been  made 
by  the  fretful  waters.  The  river  is  spanned  by  a  sus- 
pension bridge,  eight  hundred  feet  in  length  and  two 
hundred  and  thirty  feet  above  the  water.  Here  John 
and  Jonathan  shake  hands.  Immense  trains  pass  over 
this  bridge  daily.     It  makes  one  shudder  to  be  drawn 


Wayside  Travel.  9 1 

by  the  iron  horse,  with  his  ponderous  train,  over  this 
apparently  slender  structure ;  should  the  wire-cable 
break,  it  would  prove  a  terrible  leap  into  the  deep 
green  waters  below.  The  cable,  however,  is  composed 
of  several  wires,  and  is  of  immense  strength. 

Prospect  Tower  is  built  on  Goat  Island ;  it  is  fifty 
feet  high.  From  the  tower  you  have  a  magnificent 
view  of  the  whole  scene  of  Niagara  above  and  below 
the  falls.  The  depth  of  water  that  flows  over  them 
of  course  can  never  be  known ;  but  the  steamer 
Detroit,  drawing  eighteen  feet,  was  carried  over  the 
falls  as  light  as  a  duck.  It  is  said  she  never  touched 
the  rocks  with  her  keel  until  she  was  forced  one 
hundred  and  sixty  feet  below. 

After  diving  into  a  deep  chasm,  scooped  out  by 
the  constant  action  of  the  water,  she  arose  a  chaotic 
mass  of  beams,  spars  and  broken  floating  timber.  A 
small  steamboat,  appropriately  called  "  Maid  of  the 
Mist,"  runs  up  into  the  very  spray  of  the  cataract. 
From  its  deck  a  view  is  presented  to  be  found  no 
where  else. 

None  of  our  party  penetrated  behind  the  Horseshoe 
Fall ;  I  did  not  care  to  have  a  foretaste  of  a  watery 
grave.  It  is  said  to  be  both  uncomfortable  and  dan- 
gerous. 

"  It  may  be  supposed,"  says  a  writer,  who  had 
explored  the  cavern,  "  that  every  person  who  has 
been  dragged  through  the  column  of  water  which 
obstructs  the  entrance  to  the  cavern  behind  the 
cataract,  has  a  pretty  correct  idea  of  the  pains  of 
drowning.     It  is  difficult  enough  to  breathe,  but,  with 


92  Wayside  Travel. 

a  little  self-control  and  management,  the  nostrils  may- 
be guarded  from  the  watery  particles  in  the  atmos- 
phere, and  then  an  impression  is  made  upon  the  mind 
by  the  extraordinary  pavilion  above  and  around, 
which  never  loses  its  vividness.  The  natural  bend 
of  the  cataract,  and  the  backward  shelve  of  the  preci- 
pice, form  an  immense  area,  like  the  interior  of  a  tent, 
but  so  pervaded  by  discharges  of  mist  and  spray  that 
it  is  impossible  to  see  far  inward.  Outward,  the  light 
struggles  brokenly  through  the  crystal  wall  of  the 
cataract,  and  when  the  sun  shines  directly  on  its  face, 
it  is  a  scene  of  unimaginable  glory.  The  footing  is 
rather  unsteadfast ;  a  small  shelf  composed  of  loose 
and  slippery  stones,  and  the  abyss  boiling  below 
like — it  is  difficult  to  find  a  comparison.  On  the 
whole,  the  undertaking  is  rather  pleasanter  to  remem- 
ber than  to  achieve." 

We  have  spent  several  days  at  Niagara.  In  our 
rambles  of  many  thousand  miles  we  have  found  no 
place  of  such  thrilling  interest,  and  have  fully  realized 
the  fact  that  it  is  a  charming  spot  to  visit. 

The  Falls  of  Niagara  are  indeed  grand  ;  yea,  beauti- 
fully grand !  As  you  stand  spell-bound,  looking  on 
this  sublime  scene,  the  waters  thunder  in  your  ears 
"  Eternity  !  Eternity  !"  and  on  the  swift  wings  of  Time 
you  feel  that  you  are  irresistibly  drifting  into  this 
eternity.  The  sensation  produced  is  one  of  joy  and 
sadness. 

I  have  never  had  hysterics,  but  imagine  the  feelings 
you  undergo  are  not  unlike  one  under  the  influence 
of  hysteria. 


Wayside  Travel.  93 

Their  ceaseless  thunders  ring  in  your  ears,  even 
when  miles  away. 

We  visited  the  Whirlpool,  and  were  quite  pleased, 
as  it  quieted  our  nerves  after  the  scenes  we  had  just 
passed  through. 

The  Falls  of  Niagara  have  been  the  frequent  theme 
of  poetry. 

The  following  lines,  by  Brainard,  have  been  much 
admired  : 

"  The  thoughts  are  strange  that  crowd  into  my  brain, 
While  I  look  upward  to  thee.      It  would  seem 
As  if  God  poured  thee  from  His  'hollow  hand,' 
And  hung  his  bow  upon  thine  awful  front; 
And  spoke  in  that  loud  voice,  which  seemed  to  him 
Who  dwelt  in  Patmos  for  his  Saviour's  sake, 
'The  sound  of  many  waters;'  and  had  bade 
Thy  flood  to  chronicle  the  ages  back, 
And  notch  His  centuries  in  the  eternal  rocks ! 

"Deep  calleth  unto  deep,  and  what  are  we, 
That  hear  the  question  of  that  voice  sublime  ? 
O !  what  are  all  the  notes  that  ever  rung 
From  War's  vain  trumpet,  by  thy  thundering  side? 
Yea,  what  is  all  the  riot  man  can  make, 
In  his  short  life,  to  thy  unceasing  roar! 
And  yet,  bold  babbler,  what  art  thou  to  Him, 
Who  drowned  a  world,  and  heaped  the  waters  far 
Above  its  loftiest  mountains  ? — a  light  wave, 
That  breaks,  and  whispers  of  its  Maker's  might!" 

We  are  receiving  terrible  accounts  here  of  the 
Great  Cataract  in  Wall  street.  Little  else  is  talked 
of  but  the  failures  in  New  York  and  in  the  West 
The  panic  produced  by  these  is  said  to  be  frightful. 
Few  persons  are  prepared  for  this  state  of  things,  as 
it  is  like  a  thunder-clap  on  a  clear  day. 


94  Wayside  Travel. 

I  cans,  hardly  realize  that  the  reports  we  get  from 
the  "States"  are  true,  as,  only  six  weeks  since,  when 
I  was  in  New  York,  money  was  abundant  at  less  than 
legal  interest,  and  the  most  sagacious  Wall  street 
bankers  saw  no  indications  of  a  commercial  storm. 
The  failure  of  the  Ohio  Life  and  Trust  Company  was 
a  terrible  shock  to  the  public  mind. 

The  avalanche  of  discredit,  caused  by  this  failure-, 
is  sweeping  down  merchants  and  bankers. 

These  troubles  make  it  necessary  that  I  should 
return  to  the  South  sooner  than  I  anticipated,  to  look 
after  my  own  commercial  ship.  We  leave  to-morrow 
for  Cincinnati,  Ohio. 

Yours,  truly, 

G.  W.  W. 

Niagara  Falls,  September,  1857. 


LETTER    SIXTH 


Cincinnati,  Ohio,  Sept  8th,  1857. 

A  short  run  from  Niagara,  by  rail,  brought  us  safely 
to  Buffalo.  This  city  is  situated  on  the  eastern 
extremity  of  Lake  Erie,  only  a  few  miles  from  the 
head  of  Niagara  River. 

Buffalo  has  a  fine  trade,  and  its  position  is  such  as 
to  render  it  the  entrepot  through  which  much  of  the 
commerce  and  travel  between  the  West  and  East  must 
pass. 

The  completion,  in  1824,  of  the  great  Erie  Canal, 
three  hundred  and  sixty-four  miles  long,  gave  the  city 
its  first  commercial  impulse.  Since  then  immense  lines 
of  railways  have  been  constructed,  opening  communi- 
cation with  the  cities  on  the  Atlantic  coast,  in  Canada, 
and  in  the  fertile  valleys  and  growing  cities  of  the  West. 

Buffalo  boasts  of  a  dozen  banks,  fifty  insurance 
companies,  and  eighteen  newspapers.  Population, 
seventy-five  thousand. 

Cleveland,  Ohio,  Sept.  5th. — After  spending  nearly 
a  day  in  Buffalo,  we  left  on  the  night  boat  for  Cleve- 
land. 

A  few  hours  pleasant  sail,  and  here  we  are  safely 
landed,  amid  the  yells  of  a  hungry  crowd  of  hackmen. 

This  town  is  on  the  southern  shore  of  Lake  Erie, 
and  is  the  port  of  entry  of  Ohio. 


g6  Wayside  Travel. 

Next  to  Cincinnati,  it  is  the  largest  town  in  the 
State.  In  addition  to  its  lake  and  railroad  facilities, 
it  is  connected  with  the  Ohio  River  by  a  canal.  The 
city  is  finely  situated  on  a  hill,  one  hundred  feet 
above  the  lake.  It  has  eight  banks,  and  more  news- 
papers than  pay  the  publishers.  Population  about 
fifty  thousand. 

Columbus,  Sept.  6th. — One  hundred  and  thirty  miles 
by  swift  rail,  through  a  fine  agricultural  country,  and 
we  find  ourselves  at  Columbus,  which  is  distinguished 
mainly  for  its  broad  streets  and  magnificent  new  State 
House. 

It  surpasses  any  building  of  the  kind  we  have  yet 
seen.  It  is  three  hundred  feet  long  and  two  hundred 
wide,  and  covers  an  area  of  fifty-six  thousand  square 
feet.  The  height  to  the  top  of  the  rotunda  is  one 
hundred  and  sixty  feet;  the  material  of  which  it  is 
built  is  white  limestone,  but  resembles  marble.  The 
penitentiary  is  a  fine  structure,  built  of  Ohio  marble. 

It  comprises  a  square  of  six  acres;  some  seven 
hundred  persons  are  confined  within  its  walls.  It  will 
be  seen  that  this  is  a  favorite  institution,  so  much  so 
that  the  population  is  constantly  on  the  increase.  They 
are,  however,  employed  in  useful  manufactures,  and 
make  more  than  enough  from  their  labor  to  pay 
expenses. 

It  might  be  well  for  South  Carolina  to  appropriate 
some  of  the  money  she  is  investing  in  her  marble 
State  palace,  and  build  a  substantial  penitentiary.  It 
will  be  needed.  Columbus  has  a  population  of  about 
thirty  thousand. 


Wayside  Travel.  97 

We  spent  part  of  a  day  and  night  pleasantly  in  that 
town,  and  left  early  this  morning  for  Cincinnati. 

One  hundred  and  twenty  miles  through  the  finest 
and  richest  country  we  have  yet  seen,  and  we  find 
ourselves  in  the  greatest  of  the  Western  cities.  We 
reach  Cincinnati  at  an  unfavorable  time.  The  failure 
of  the  Ohio  Life  and  Trust  Company  has  cast  a  gloom 
over  the  whole  community,  as  the  citizens  are  all 
more  or  less  interested  in  this  institution,  the  credit  of 
which  stood,  a  few  months  ago,  beyond  suspicion. 

This  great  failure  has  thrown  distrust  and  discredit 
on  nearly  every  species  of  credit.  A  commercial 
panic,  which  had  its  beginning  here,  is  spreading  over 
the  whole  country;  men  who  considered  themselves 
rich  a  few  months  ago,  are  now  bankrupts;  a  heavy 
gloom,  like  a  nightmare,  oppresses  merchants,  bank- 
ers, mechanics  and  farmers. 

When  these  troubles  are  to  end,  no  one  can  tell. 
Will  our  people  be  the  wiser  for  these  sad  lessons? 
We  shall  see.  Overtrade,  extravagance,  speculation, 
and  too  free  use  of  credit,  cause  these  troubles. 

Cincinnati,  the  metropolis  of  Ohio,  is  on  the  right 
bank  of  the  Ohio  River.  It  is  the  most  populous  city 
in  the  Western  States,  and  is  fifth  in  size  and  import- 
ance among  the  cities  of  the  Union;  it  is  remarkable 
for  its  extensive  trade,  enterprising  merchants,  rapid 
growth,  and  productive  industry.  Cincinnati  is  beau- 
tifully situated  in  a  valley,  and  is  justly  entitled  to  be 
called  the  "  Queen  City  of  the  West."  It  is  surrounded 
by  a  range  of  hills  four  hundred  feet  above  the  river  ; 
from  these  you  have  a  splendid  view  of  the  city,  and 
13 


98  Wayside  Travel. 

the  "vine-clad  hills."  It  boasts  of  her  Broadway, 
Pearl  and  Main  streets.  Here  you  find  spacious 
stores,  warehouses  and  dwellings,  built  substantially 
of  brick  and  stone.  This  city  is  distinguished  for  its 
literary  and  benevolent  institutions. 

It  ought  to  be  pious,  as  it  has  over  one  hiindred 
churches,  besides  several  synagogues. 

It  abounds  in  good  hotels  ;  the  Burnett  House,  at 
which  we  are  stopping,  would  do  credit  to  New  York. 
It  has  three  hundred  and  fifty  apartments,  and  is  sur- 
mounted by  a  dome  which  is  one  hundred  feet  above 
the  basement.  The  Burnett  House  cost  over  eight 
hundred  thousand  dollars. 

The  observatory  is  a  fine  stone  edifice;  it  is  situated 
on  Mount  Adams,  which  is  five  hundred  feet  above 
the  river;  commands  a  wide  and  varied  prospect  of 
the  city  and  surrounding  country. 

This  is  the  city  Madame  Trollope  described  in  her 
"Manners  of  the  Americans"  as  being  distinguished 
for  its  "hogs  and  hominy."  I  do  not  think  she  over- 
rated the  importance  to  Cincinnati  of  the  hog  product, 
as  a  large  portion  of  her  wealth  is  derived  from  the 
pigs  raised  in  the  rich  agricultural  districts  of  the 
State.  It  is  said  nearly  a  million  are  slaughtered  here 
annually.  The  hogs  in  Cincinnati,  like  the  buzzards 
in  Charleston,  act  the  part  of  street  scavengers. 

The  Charleston  scavenger,  however,  does  not  fill 
the  streets  and  houses  with  fleas,  and  do  not  prowl 
about  the  streets  so  promiscuously  as  the  hogs  do 
here;  but  the  hog  is  a  very  useful  if  not  an  ornamen- 
tal animal — nowhere  have  we  found  better  hams  than 


Wayside  Travel.  99 

at  the  Burnett  House.  The  feet  and  entrails  of  the 
swine  are  no  longer  cast  into  the  Ohio  as  rubbish,  to 
be  washed  into  the  Mississippi,  but  the  pork  packers 
have  learned  to  save  every  particle  of  the  animal. 
The  entrails  are  boiled  into  lard,  the  feet  are  prepared 
as  an  article  of  food,  and  the  blood  is  used  for  "pud- 
dings" and  for  chemical  purposes. 

Our  party  had  a  pleasant  visit  to  Mr.  Longworth's 
vineyards.  These  are  situated  on  the  hillsides  which 
overlook  the  windings  of  the  Ohio  River. 

Mr.  Longworth  has  in  his  employ  Germans  who 
are  skilled  in  the  cultivation  of  the  grape  and  manu- 
facture of  wine — his  dry  Catawba  and  sparkling  Ca- 
tawba are  considered  his  best  wines. 

The  increase  of  the  cultivation  of  the  vine  in  Ohio 
has  introduced  to  this  State  many  hardy,  useful  and 
economical  Germans,  who  make  good  citizens. 

The  annual  products  of  the  vine,  in  the  neighbor- 
hood of  this  city,  is  estimated  at  about  three  hundred 
thousand  gallons.  This  branch  of  business  is  rapidly 
on  the  increase. 

Cincinnati  carries  on  an  extensive  trade  by  her 
rivers,  canals  and  railways.  She  connects  with  the 
great  lakes  by  the  Miami  Canal,  with  the  Gulf  of 
Mexico  through  the  Ohio  River,  and  the  Atlantic 
cities  by  her  various  lines  of  railways. 

I  was  surprised  to  find  the  manufacturing  interests 
of  this  city  of  such  magnitude. 

The  value  of  manufactured  articles,  the  past  year,  is 
said  to  swell  up  to  the  enormous  magnitude  of  eighty 
millions  of  dollars! 


ioo  Wayside   Travel. 

Cincinnati  has  two  hundred  thousand  inhabitants, 
and  is  rapidly  increasing  both  in  wealth  and  popula- 
tion; at  present,  however,  trade  is  prostrate,  and  a 
gloom  hangs  over  the  people. 

We  leave  here  to-morrow  for  Louisville,  Kentucky, 
to  attend  the  great  State  Agricultural  Fair. 
Ever  yours, 

G.  W.  W. 


LETTER    SEVENTH 


Louisville  State  Fair — Mammoth  Cave — Nashville — 
Chattanooga  —  Madison — Red  Old  Hills  of  Geor- 
gia— Home. 

Louisville,  Kentucky,  Sept.  ioth,  1857. 

A  pleasant  run  of  one  hundred  and  thirty  miles 
down  the  Ohio,  in  a  fine  steamer,  and  we  are  safely 
landed  at  Louisville. 

A  large  and  profitable  trade  is  carried  on  here. 
The  commerce  of  Louisville  is  said  to  amount  to  one 
hundred  millions  of  dollars  ! 

The  exports  comprise  tobacco,  hemp,  grain,  pork 
and  various  articles  of  manufacture.  Bagging,  rope 
and  twine  are  manufactured  largely  in  this  State,  and 
sent  here  for  sale. 

Louisville,  as  well  as  Cincinnati,  owes  its  pros- 
perity mainly  to  Madame  Trollope's  favorite  animal, 
the  Kentucky  hog!  and  Kentucky  is  as  famous  for  its 


Wayside  Travel.  ioi 

splendid  corn  and  wheat  fields  as  for  its  pigs  and  pork. 
The  hotels  are  full  to  overflowing  in  consequence  of 
the  State  Agricultural  Fair,  which  is  being  held  here. 

Our  friend,  Colonel  R.,  took  us  to-day  to  the 
fair  grounds,  and  such  an  exhibition  of  horses  and 
cattle  my  eyes  never  feasted  on  before.  A  fair  like 
this  is  worth  a  trip  across  the  Rocky'  Mountains 
to  see. 

I  must  not  forget  to  mention,  last  though  not  least, 
the  splendid-looking  men  and  women  of  Kentucky. 
I  believe  no  other  State  in  the  Union  can  produce 
such  a  type  of  the  descendants  of  Adam  and  Eve. 

To  call  them  splendid  is  too  feeble  an  expression ; 
physically,  the  men  and  women  are  unsurpassed. 

We  leave  this  pleasant  city  in  the  morning  to  visit 
the  Mammoth  Cave. 

Mammoth  Cave,  Sept.  nth. — Well,  here  we  are  at 
this  great  underground  wonder  of  the  Western  World. 
Kentucky  is  slow  in  developing  her  system  of  rail- 
ways. Only  thirty  miles  of  the  Louisville  and  Nash- 
ville Railroad  is  completed. 

At  New  Haven  we  had  to  take  a  stage-coach  for 
this  place.  You  can  imagine  the  discomfort  when 
twelve  passengers  were  packed  into  seats  for  nine. 
The  gentlemen  readily  yielded  the  most  comfortable 
seats  to  the  ladies,  but  this  arrangement  did  not  suit 
a  fair  daughter  from  Down  East.  She  wanted  her 
sweetheart  by  her  side,  and  insisted  on  his  occupying 
a  place  that  was  filled  by  my  sweetheart. 

I  took  my  chance  among  the  trunks  and  hat-boxes 
on  the  top  of  the  coach,  and  requested  Mrs.  W.  not 


102  Wayside   Travel. 

to  change  her  comparatively  comfortable  quarters. 
Finding  that  we  were  decided  in  maintaining  our 
rights,  Boston  offered  no  further  opposition. 

Mammoth  Cave  is  indeed  a  mysterious  freak  of 
nature,  but  should  by  all  means  be  visited  before  you 
have  looked  upon  the  grandeur  of  Niagara. 

We  wandered  for  many  miles  in  those  dark  and 
dismal  caverns,  passing  in  our  rambles  many  frightful 
pits.  The  myriads  of  stalactites  and  petrifications 
hang  on  the  walls  of  these  subterranean  chambers, 
glistening  like  icicles.  A  river,  navigable  for  small 
boats,  winds  its  way  in  these  recesses.  Only  two 
kinds  of  fish  have  been  found  in  this  stream ;  one  of 
these  is  eyeless ;  the  other  has  eyes,  but  cannot  see. 
This  cavern  is  a  favorite  resort  for  bats,  owls  and  the 
like. 

This  is  said  to  be  the  largest  cave  in  the  world. 
But  I  do  not  like  these  underground  marvels  of  nature. 

Nashville,  Sept.  14th. — After  a  most  uncomfort- 
able ride  by  stage-coach  from  Mammoth  Cave,  we 
gratefully  find  ourselves  here  alive — and  but  alive ! 
In  Nashville  we  stop  a  day  to  rest,  and  will  avail  our- 
selves in  seeing  what  we  can  see. 

We  take  a  hasty  glance  at  the  book  establishment 
of  the  Methodist  Episcopal  Church  South.  In  this 
mammoth  concern  we  find  our  old  Charleston  friend, 
Dr.  S.,  looking  just  as  quisical  and  honest  as  if  he 
had  lived  in  the  Queen  City  all  his  life.  Not  far  from 
our  hotel,  on  an  elevated  situation,  is  one  of  the  finest 
State  Houses  in  America,  constructed  of  pure  Ten- 
nessee  limestone  marble.     A  view  from  the  tower  of 


Wayside   Travel.  103 

this  magnificent  building  is  worth  a  hundred  mam- 
moth caves.  Nashville  has  a  fine  trade,  and  is  in- 
creasing in  wealth  and  population. 

The  widow  of  ex-President  Polk  resides  here,  and 
twelve  miles  from  the  city  is  the  Hermitage,  the  cele- 
brated residence  of  the  late  Andrew  Jackson. 

Chattanooga,  Tenn.,  Sept.  16th. — One  hundred  and 
fifty  miles  over  the  Nashville  and  Chattanooga  Rail- 
road, through  the  mountain  gorges  of  the  Blue  Ridge, 
and  we  find  ourselves  at  Chattanooga.  This  road 
passes  through  many  lovely  valleys,  and  some  of  the 
finest  scenery  in  America.  The  construction  of  a 
railway  through  such  a  mountainous  country  was  a 
gigantic  undertaking.  The  City  by  the  Sea  contri- 
buted largely  of  her  means  to  this  enterprise.  Chat- 
tanooga is  situated  on  the  Tennessee  River,  under  the 
shade  of  majestic  Lookout  Mountain.  The  town  is 
badly  located,  and  is  subject  to  overflow  when  there 
is  a  flood  in  the  Tennessee.  It  bids  fair,  however,  of 
becoming  one  of  the  largest  manufacturing  towns  in 
the  State.     We  leave  here  to-morrow  for  Charleston. 

Madison,  Ga.,  Sept.  18th. — We  stop  here  a  day  to 
rest  and  see  the  loved  ones  of  dear  "  Forest  Home." 
Madison  is  the  old  home  of  Mrs.  W.,  and,  of  course,  is 
doubly  dear  to  her.  It  is  one  of  the  prettiest  towns  in 
Middle  Georgia,  and  has  long  been  distinguished  for 
its  excellent  schools  and  good  society.  Many  wealthy 
planters  have  settled  here  for  educational  advantages. 
It  is  surrounded  by  a  beautiful  and  fertile  country. 
Some  twenty-five  thousand  bales  of  cotton,  raised  in 
the  vicinity,  are  shipped  to  Augusta  and  Charleston. 


104  Wayside  Travel. 

Yesterday  we  passed  through  the  rich  agricultural 
district  of  Cherokee,  which  is  the  grainery  of  Georgia, 
and  to-day  through 

"The  red  old  hills  of  Georgia! 

So  bald,  and  bare,  and  bleak — 
Their  memory  fills  my  spirit 

With  thoughts  I  cannot  speak. 
They  have  no  robe  of  verdure, 

Stript  naked  to  the  blast; 
And  yet  of  all  the  varied  earth, 

I  love  them  best  at  last. 

"I  love  them  for  the  pleasure 

With  which  my  life  was  blest, 
When  erst  I  left,  in  boyhood, 

My  footsteps  on  their  breast. 
When  in  the  rains  had  perished 

Those  steps  from  plain  and  knoll, 
Then  vanished,  with  the  storm  of  grief, 

Joy's  footprints  from  my  soul ! 

"  The  red  old  hills  of  Georgia ! 

My  heart  is  on  them  now; 
Where,  fed  from  golden  streamlets, 

Chattahoochie's  waters  flow ! 
I  love  them  with  devotion, 

Though  washed  so  bleak  and  bare; — 
Oh  !  can  my  spirit  e'er  forget 

The  warm  hearts  dwelling  there  ? 

"I  love  them  for  the  living, 

The  generous,  kind  and  gay; 
And  for  the  dead  who  slumber 

Within  their  breasts  of  clay. 
I  love  them  for  the  bounty 

Which  cheers  the  social  hearth; 
I  love  them  for  their  rosy  girls — 

The  fairest  on  the  earth ! 


Wayside    Travel.  105 

"  The  red  old  hills  of  Georgia ! 

Oh !  where,  upon  the  face 
Of  earth,  is  freedom's  spirit 

More  bright  in  any  race  ? 
In  Switzerland  and  Scotland 

Each  patriot  breast  it  fills, 
But,  oh !  it  blazes  brighter  yet 

Among  our  Georgia  hills! 

"And  where,  upon  their  surface, 

Is  heart  to  feeling  dead  ? 
Oh !  when  has  needy  stranger 

Gone  from  those  hills  unfed  ? 
There  bravery  and  kindness, 

For  aye,  go  hand  in  hand, 
Upon  your  washed  and  naked  hills, 

'My  own,  my  native  land!' 

"The  red  old  hills  of  Georgia 

I  never  can  forget; 
Amid  life's  joys  and  sorrows, 

My  heart  is  on  them  yet; — 
And  when  my  course  is  ended, 

When  life  her  web  has  wove, 
Oh !   may  I   then,  beneath  those  hills, 

Lie  close  to  them  I  love  !  " 

Now  we  are  nearing  Charleston,  passing  through 
luxuriant  gardens  and  groves  of  grand  old  moss-clad 
oaks,  brilliant  magnolias  and  palmettoes. 

To  the  right  is  Chicora,  and  to  the  left  Etiwan. 
Between  these  rivers  nestles  Charleston,  the  Queen 
City  of  the  South !  And  there  is  the  beautiful  bat- 
tery, the  spacious  harbor — and  beyond,  Fort  Sumter 
and  the  deep  blue  sea. 

But  here  is  "  Sweet  Home !"  With  grateful  hearts 
we  offer  up  devout  thanks  to  God  for  his  protection 
14 


106  Wayside    Travel. 

over  us  during  our  rambles  of  five  thousand  miles 
by  land  and  water,  amid  dangers  seen  and  unseen. 
It  has,  indeed,  been  to  us  a  tour  of  varied  and  in- 
tense pleasure ;  having,  in  some  five  months,  visited 
the  principal  objects  of  interest  in  North  and  British 
America. 

We  are  glad  to  be  again  at  our  quiet  home,  believ- 
ing that  earth  possesses  no  greater  joys  than  the 
peaceful  comforts  of  home  !  At  least,  this  is  the 
experience  of 

G.  W.  W. 

Charleston,  S.  C,  Sept.  20th,  1857. 


SKETCHES 


WHAT  I  SAW 


EUROPE 


PREPARING 


VOYAGE  TO  EUROPE. 


All  Right,  says  the  Captain — All  Wrong,  thou gl it  the 
Passengers. 

A  few  days  since  the  heat  became  so  intense  in 
New  York  that  I  determined  to  leave  its  glowing 
masses  of  brick  and  mortar  and  look  for  a  cooler 
abode.  I  engaged  passage  and  sailed  at  5  o'clock 
on  the  evening  of  the  5th  for  the  celebrated  summer 
retreat  of  Newport.  We  had  a  fine  view  of  the  ship- 
ping in  New  York  harbor;  and  it  is  a  sight  worth 
looking  at.  The  change  from  the  heated  brick  walls 
and  noisy  streets  to  the  fresh  sea-breeze  was  delight- 
ful. Our  steamer  moved  swiftly  through  the  placid 
Sound,  and  all  on  board  seemed  to  enjoy  the  voyage 
exceedingly.  I  inquired  of  a  fellow-passenger  the 
character  of  our  steamer;  he  replied,  "A  No.  1  — 
cost  six  hundred  thousand  dollars."  I  discovered 
that  his  estimate  of  the  quality  of  the  ship  was 
governed  by  the  dollars  she  cost. 


1 10  Preparing  for  a  Voyage  to  Europe. 

About  1 1  o'clock  the  passengers  began  to  retire 
for  the  night.  I  was  on  deck,  talking  over,  with 
an  old  Charleston  friend,  the  years  of  trial  through 
which  we  had  passed  in  the  tempest-tost  Confederacy. 
Suddenly  the  great  wheels  of  the  A  No.  i  steamer 
ceased  to  turn.  "What's  the  matter?"  says  one. 
"A  boat  ahead;  stopped  to  let  her  get  out  of  our 
way."  I  noticed  considerable  confusion  among  the 
passengers,  and  heard  a  lady  say,  "O,  Harry,  the 
boat  is  on  fire!  we  are  lost!  we  are  lost!"  Poor 
Harry  was  endeavoring  to  assure  his  frightened  wife 
that  there  was  no  danger,  but  his  pale  face  told  that 
he  too  was  alarmed.  I  stepped  quickly  to  the  side  of 
the  steamer,  and,  sure  enough,  she  seemed  to  be  on 
fire!  The  captain,  however,  assured  the  passengers 
that  "it  was  all  right,"  but  the  steamer  stood  still  and 
the  excitement  increased.  "Bring  out  the  hawser, 
and  all  hands  on  deck,"  cried  the  captain.  "Bill," 
says  John,  "what  does  the  captain  want  the  'horser' 
brought  on  deck  for?"  "To  enable  the  passengers 
to  swim  ashore,  I  guess,"  coolly  replied  John.  "  How 
far  is  to  land?"  "Seven  miles  to  the  Connecticut 
shore,  fifteen  to  Long  Island."  "I'm  bound  for 
wooden  nutmegs,  then,  certain,"  says  Bill.  "Bring 
the  axe  and  saw  here;  hurry  up,  cut  away  these 
planks.  Be  in  a  hurry."  "What  is  the  matter,  cap- 
tain?" was  asked  again,  for  the  hundredth  time,  to 
his  great  annoyance,  and  the  same  satisfactory  (?) 
answer  was  given — "All  right!" 

The  captain  moved  quickly  into  the  pilot  house 
and  brought  out  a  bundle  of  rods.     "  My  dear,  what 


Preparing  for  a  Voyage  to  Europe.  1 1 1 

is  the  captain  going  to  do?"  inquired  an  affectionate 
wife  of  her  husband.  "Take  a  sounding,  I  calculate!" 
I  did  not  profess  to  be  much  of  a  sailor,  but  sky- 
rockets seemed  to  me  queer  instruments  with  which 
to  try  the  depth  of  the  sea.  The  captain  ordered  a 
match  to  be  brought  him  quickly.  Away  went  the 
streak  of  lightning,  exploding  several  hundred  feet 
above  the  ship.  This  circumstance  added  new  terror 
to  the  alarm  of  the  frightened  passengers,  and  I 
began  to  feel  a  little  shaky  myself.  We  all  knew 
that  the  rockets  were  signals  of  distress,  but  we 
did  not  know  how  soon  we  were  to  be  blown  up 
or  go  to  the  bottom.  One,  two,  three,  four  rock- 
ets were  sent  up,  giving  us  quite  a  Fourth  of 
July  display  of  fireworks,  which,  however,  was  not 
much  enjoyed  by  the  spectators.  The  captain  was 
looking  anxiously  through  his  glasses,  and  again  he 
says,  "All  right;  they  see  us,  and  are  coming  this 
way." 

Several  miles  distant  the  light  of  a  steamer  could 
be  seen  approaching  us,  and  as  she  came  nearer  and 
nearer,  all  hearts  grew  stronger;  and  when  a  voice 
through  a  speaking  trumpet  cried  out,  "  Who  are 
you,  and  what  can  I  do  for  you?"  the  passengers,  for 
the  first  time,  began  to  think  perhaps  all  would  be 
right;  and  when  we  were  lashed  securely  to  the 
strange  steamer,  we  felt — that  we  had  two  strings  to 
our  bow.  During  the  night  the  damages  to  the 
machinery  were  repaired,  and  next  morning  we  landed 
safely  at  Newport,  feeling  thankful  that  we  were 
neither  burned  nor  drowned. 


1 1 2  Preparing  for  a  Voyage  to  Europe. 

Having  enjoyed  the  refreshing  sea-breezes  and 
bathing  of  this  famous  summer  resort  for  some  days, 
I  returned  to  New  York,  and  have  taken  passage  in 
the  fine  steamship  "Napoleon  III,"  which  leaves  on 
Saturday,  direct  for  France.  When  I  learn  to  speak 
and  write  French,  you  shall  hear  from  me  again. 

G.  W.  W. 

New  York,  July  12,  1866. 


EUROPEAN  CORRESPONDENCE. 


LETTER    FIRST 


Across  the  Atlantic. 

Steamship  Napoleon  III, 
New  York,  July,  1866. 

Having  engaged  passage  on  the  fine  French  steamer, 
I  gladly  quit  my  heated  apartments  at  the  Fifth  Ave- 
nue Hotel,  and  embark  on  board  the  noble  steamship 
Napoleon  III. 

At  7  A.  M.,  a  salute  from  the  booming  cannon,  and 
we  bid  adieu  to  the  great  American  Metropolis  and 
the  friends  who  crowd  the  wharves  to  speak  a  last 
farewell ! 

My  heart  beats  with  delightful  anticipations,  as  our 
splendid  ship,  with  her  bow  turned  towards  beautiful 
France,  gracefully  glides  from  her  moorings,  and  cau- 
tiously feels  her  way  down  the  Bay  of  New  York, 
through  the  shipping  which  fills  that  spacious  harbor. 
An  hour  more  and  New  York  fades  from  our  sight. 
We  are  now  enjoying  a  delightful  sea-breeze. 

What  a  change  from  the  heated  walls  of  Gotham ! 

We  are  fairly  launched  on  the  glorious  Atlantic, 
with  three  thousand  miles  of  restless  ocean  before  us, 
but  sailing  as  fast  as  wind  and  steam  can  drive  us, 
15 


114  European  CoiTcspo7idence. 

The  dream  of  childhood  is  about  being  realized  ; 
from  my  earliest  recollection,  I  have  always  had  a  de- 
sire to  travel  by  land  or  sea. 

Even  when  a  wee  mountain  boy,  I  would  climb  the 
loftiest  peak  of  the  Alleghany's,  and  look  with  admi- 
ration upon  the  mountains,  as  they  lay  heaped  around 
me,  and  the  lovely  valleys  which  nestled  at  my  feet. 

As  much  as  I  dislike  the  boisterous  ocean,  yet  I 
am  willing  to  encounter  all  its  perils  for  an  opportu- 
nity of  wandering  amid  the  classic  and  historical 
scenes  of  the  Old  World.  It  is  especially  refreshing 
after  having  been  shut  up  for  so  many  years  in  the 
shipwrecked  Confederacy,  to  travel  and  breathe  a 
little  fresh  free  air. 

I  must  now  take  a  survey  of  my  compagnons  de  voy- 
age. From  their  cheerful  and  respectable  appearance, 
we  have  promise  during  our  voyage  of  an  agreeable 
party.  The  two  hundred  and  fifty  passengers  are 
made  up  of  a  mongrel  and  merry  set  of  persons. 
Here  we  find  the  gay  and  light-hearted  Frenchman, 
the  musical  German,  the  consequential  John  Bull,  the 
polite  Spaniard,  and  last,  though  not  least,  the  wide- 
awake American. 

Among  the  passengers  is  a  group  of  beautifully 
dressed  ladies.  They  are  natives  of  dear  old  France, 
but  speak  English,  and  have  a  polite  word  for  all. 
Quite  a  number  of  this  party,  I  understand,  are  milli- 
ners and  dressmakers  of  New  York,  Philadelphia  and 
New  Orleans,  on  their  way  to  Paris,  for  the  latest 
fashions,  over  which  the  fair  creatures  of  Jonathan's 
land  will  run  mad. 


European  Correspondence.  115 

At  table  No.  3,  sit  two  elderly  ladies  in  whom  I  am 
wonderfully  interested,  not  only  because  they  are 
Georgians,  but  from  the  fact  that  they  are  the  daugh- 
ters of  one  of  Georgia's  earliest  settlers,  and  most 
honored  sons.  Their  father  was  a  native  of  honest 
old  Scotland,  who,  when  quite  a  youth,  left  his  home 
for  the  New  World.  After  a  stormy  passage  he 
landed  in  Charleston,  a  poor  boy,  without  money  or 
friends;  but  he  possessed  intelligence,  energy,  activ- 
ity and  sobriety,  necessary  qualifications  to  ensure 
success.  At  that  time  Georgia  was  a  colony,  inhab- 
ited mainly  by  the  Indians,  and  was  a  good  field  for 
the  young  Scotch  adventurer.  He  settled  in  Savan- 
nah and  opened  a  small  store.  His  stock  in  trade 
consisted  of  a  few  hundred  dollars  worth  of  English 
and  Scotch  notions.  These  he  exchanged  with  the 
Indians  for  furs,  hides,  game,  and  the  like.  In  a  few 
years  he  extended  his  trade  as  far  as  Augusta,  at 
which  place  he  established  a  branch  of  his  Savannah 
house.  At  that  period,  Bristol  was  the  Liverpool  of 
England,  and  carried  on  considerable  trade  with  the 
West  Indies  and  American  colonies.  Small  cargoes 
of  such  articles  as  were  suited  to  the  wants  of  the 
Indians  and  half  civilized  whites  were  shipped  from 
Bristol  to  Savannah,  consigned  to  the  father  of  these 
two  ladies. 

He  had  lived  long  enough  in  the  Old  World  to  un- 
derstand the  value  of  land.  He  purchased  large  tracts 
of  rich  lands  in  the  valley  of  the  Savannah  River  for 
a  trifling  consideration,  and  became  one  of  the  most 
successful  planters  in  the  South.     The  few  families  of 


1 1 6  European  Correspondence. 

imported  Africans  which  he  settled  on  his  plantations, 
by  kind  usage  and  good  treatment  had  increased  to 
nearly  one  thousand  when  the  Emancipation  Procla- 
mation was  issued.  Our  Scotch  merchant  and  planter 
became  a  member  of  the  Continental  Congress,  and 
was,  subsequently,  governor  of  Georgia.  He  sent 
from  Savannah  to  Boston  some  of  the  powder  that 
was  used  at  the  battle  of  Bunker  Hill.  A  friend  in- 
quired of  me,  "What  makes  the  two  Savannah  ladies 
look  so  sad — have  they  lost  everything  by  the  war?" 
"Not  everything,"  I  replied.  Their  income,  which 
was  very  large,  has  been  reduced  to  forty  thousand 
dollars  per  annum.  And  yet  they  feel  as  if  they  were 
on  the  broad  road  to  the  almshouse — and  why  should 
they  not?  Four  years  ago  they  counted  their  wealth 
by  millions,  and  they  felt  secure  in  that  wealth,  as  it 
was  guaranteed  to  them  by  the  Constitution  of  the 
United  States — a  guarantee  their  venerable  father  had 
taught  them  was  beyond  question.  What  do  they  see 
now?  A  million  of  dollars  worth  of  property  swept 
away  by  a  paper  proclamation,  followed  almost  imme- 
diately by  Sherman's  army,  torch  in  hand.  The  home 
in  which  their  father,  Governor  Telfair,  brilliantly  en- 
tertained General  Washington  during  his  visit  to 
Georgia  in  179 1 ,  was  consigned  to  the  flames.  The 
family  treasures,  in  the  shape  of  paintings,  furniture, 
etc.,  which  had  been  accumulating  for  more  than  a 
century — treasures  that  cost  large  sums  of  money, 
but  treasures  which  cannot  be  computed  by  dollars 
and  cents,  many  of  them  being  family  portraits  and 
relics — were,  in  a  few  short   hours,  either   stolen  or 


European  Correspondence.  1 1 7 

reduced  to  ashes.  Have  these  ladies  not  good  reason 
for  looking  sad?  Have  they  anything  left  that  they 
can  call  their  own?  Can  they  make  a  contract  with 
a  servant  that  was  born  in  their  own  house,  without 
the  sanction  of  the  Freedmen's  Bureau,  the  managers 
of  which  no  more  understand  the  negro  character  than 
they  understand  the  principles  of  honesty?  And 
moreover,  has  not  the  property  for  which  their  father 
worked  so  hard  been  taken  from  them  without  trial  by 
judge  or  jury?  Have  they  killed  anybody  that  they 
should  be  thus  treated?  Why  is  it  that  the  protection 
of  the  government  their  father  helped  to  make  should 
be  denied  them  ?  Is  it  any  wonder  that  they  look  and 
feel  sad,  and  quit  the  country  that  has  afforded  them 
so  little  protection?  But  enough.  This  picture  in- 
creases my  sea-sickness.  I  must  go  on  deck  and  get 
some  fresh  air. 

The  more  I  see  of  the  deep,  wide  ocean,  the  more 
my  admiration  of  Christopher  Columbus  increases. 
It  required  greater  courage  to  sail  in  those  frail  boats 
of  his,  in  an  unknown  sea,  and  with  an  ignorant  and 
mutinous  crew  to  manage,  than  Napoleon  the  Great 
possessed  to  fight  all  the  battles  that  won  him  so  much 
glory.  I  am  sure  that  if  the  discovery  of  America 
had  been  left  to  men  of  my  stamp,  the  wild  Indians 
would  now  be  enjoying  the  fishing  and  hunting 
grounds  in  the  sweet  Vale  of  Nacoochee,  and  eating 
codfish  and  clams  on  the  Plymouth  Rock.  Some 
people  were  made  to  fight ;  some  to  navigate  ;  some 
to  tame  the  lightning ;  but  the  majority  to  work  in 
humbler  walks   of   trade,   agriculture   or  mechanics. 


1 1 8  European  Correspondence. 

We  must  have  war  to  fulfil  the  Scriptures ;  telegraphs 
to  send  forth  knowledge  with  the  swiftness  of  light- 
ning, and  navigation  to  transport  the  products  of  com- 
merce from  land  to  land. 

This  is  Sunday,  and  the  eighth  day  at  sea.  The 
day  is  being  spent  by  many  in  card-playing.  Not  a 
Bible  have  I  seen  in  the  hands  of  saint  or  sinner;  but 
among  the  passengers  I  observed  a  devout  Catholic 
lady  this  morning  counting  her  beads.  The  two 
priests  on  board  are  jolly-looking  fellows  ;  but  if  they 
have  their  prayer-books,  I  have  not  seen  them.  In 
the  English  ships,  the  American  Bible  Society  deposit 
a  Bible  in  each  state-room.  On  the  French  line  of 
steamers  I  understand  this  is  forbidden. 

I  have  made  up  my  mind  that  a  voyage  across  the 
Atlantic,  imprisoned  for  two  weeks  with  three  hun- 
dred men,  women  and  children,  representing  all  grades 
of  American  and  European  society,  is  about  the  best 
school  for  the  study  of  human  nature  that  is  presented 
to  a  man  in  his  wanderings  through  life.  I  have  made 
the  acquaintance  of  ladies  and  gentlemen,  and  already 
feel  attachments  for  them,  akin  to  those  for  relations 
and  old  friends.  There  are  some  of  our  passengers, 
however,  who  are  anything  but  agreeable  or  lovely. 

I  have  been  surprised  to  see  how  ignorant  of  the 
South  and  its  people  the  majority  of  the  Northerners 
seem  to  be.  Their  information  is  derived  mainly  from 
ignorant  or  partisan  newspapers,  and  Radical  lecturers. 
The  pulpit  is  also  responsible  for  many  of  the  errors 
which  have  crept  into  the  public  mind  in  reference  to 
the  habits  and  customs  of  the  Southern  people. 


European  Correspondence.  119 

Many  believed  that  those  who  owned  slaves  took 
delight  in  torturing  them.  A  greater  falsehood  was 
never  promulgated.  The  Southern  planter,  before  the 
war,  was  the  highest  type  of  a  humane  gentleman. 
He  knew  that  he  could  no  more  be  respected  by  his 
neighbors  or  considered  a  gentleman,  if  he  maltreated 
his  slaves,  than  if  he  were  a  blackleg  and  a  rogue. 
Besides,  what  nonsense  to  suppose  that  any  sane  man 
would  destroy  or  injure  his  own  property?  He  was 
impelled  by  self-interest,  if  by  no  higher  motive,  to  be 
humane  to  his  people. 

I  hear  them  cry  out,  "Land,"  and  I  see  the  green 
hills  of  dear  old  France.  Don't  my  heart  beat  with 
joy.  G.  W.  W. 

Steamship  Napoleon  III,  July,   1866. 


LETTER    SECOND 


First  Impressions  of  France. 

Harbor  of  Brest, 
Steamship  Napoleon  III,  July,  1866. 

We  are  now  in  full  view  of  the  vine-clad  hills  and 
valleys  of  the  beautiful  land  of  France.  The  passen- 
gers have  the  choice  of  landing  at  Brest  and  travelling 
eighteen  hours  by  rail  to  Paris,  or  of  proceeding  in 
the  steamer  to  Havre,  some  two  hundred  and  fifty 
miles  distant,  from  which  point  they  have  a  run  of 
only  five  hours  by  rail  to  Paris.  The  day  is  charm- 
ing, the  sea  smooth,  and  most  of  my  friends  have 
decided  to  go  to  Havre.  The  inducement  to  ac- 
company them  is  great,  but  I  am  tired  of  the  sea, 
and  want  to  stand  once  more  on  terra  firma.  This 
eighteen  hours  of  railway  will  give  me  an  opportunity 
of  travelling  several  hundred  miles  through  an  inter- 
esting portion  of  France. 

The  great  iron  wheels  of  Napoleon  III  stop  for  the 
first  time  in  twelve  days  ;  a  small  steamer  approaches, 
and  seventy  passengers  are  transferred  to  her.  The 
polite  captain  assists  each  passenger  from  one  steamer 
to  the  other,  wishing  them  a  safe  and  pleasant  journey. 
Napoleon  III  is  a  splendid  ship,  and  Captain  Bocande 
has  the  entire  confidence  of  his  passengers,  as  being 
an  experienced  and  skilful  navigator.  Success  to 
the  captain  and  the  ship  that  carried  us  safely  across 
the  Atlantic. 


European  Correspondence,  121 

Never  did  a  boy's  heart  beat  faster  at  the  sight  of 
his  sweetheart  than  mine  does  as  I  step  from  the 
steamer  for  the  first  time  upon  the  soil  of  the  Old 
World!  A  desire  of  my  heart,  long  delayed,  is  at 
last  gratified.  We  are  safely  landed  at  Brest,  which 
is  a  beautiful  city,  situated  on  the  western  extremity 
of  France,  and  has  a  population  of  sixty  thousand. 
Brest  has  a  secure  and  commodious  harbor,  with 
twenty-five  feet  of  water.  The  emperor  is  making  it 
one  of  the  strongest  naval  stations  of  his  empire. 

The  town  clock  strikes  eleven,  but  my  watch  indi- 
cates the  time 'to  be  six.  We  have  travelled  nearly 
three  thousand  miles,  in  the  direction  of  the  rising  of 
the  sun,  which  makes  the  difference  in  the  time 
between  New  York  and  Brest  five  hours.  Have  I 
gained  or  lost  five  hours  in  the  voyage?  Our  baggage 
is  conveyed  to  the  customhouse,  and  a  strict  search 
made  for  dutiable  goods.  It  would  be  a  "green" 
man  indeed,  who  would  attempt  to  smuggle  merchan- 
dise into  France  that  had  passed  through  the  hands 
of  the  internal  and  eternal  revenue  officers  of  the 
United  States.  Unfortunately  for  us,  there  is  not  an 
article  we  can  produce  except  .cotton,  or,  perhaps, 
tobacco,  that  can  be  exported,  and  these  are  not 
commodities  likely  to  be  found  in  one's  trunk. 

As  we  walk  along  the  streets  the  granite  pavement 
seems  much  more  unsteady  than  the  ship.  They  say 
this  unpleasant  motion  will  be  felt  for  several  days. 
I  am  quite  surprised  to  see  the  women  hobbling  along, 
their  little  French  feet  covered  with  wooden  shoes. 
It  reminds  one  of  the  days  of  the  "make  shift"  and 
16 


122  European  Correspondence. 

I. 

emergency  in  the  Confederacy.  We  have  taken  a 
hasty  view  of  the  city,  and  are  off  for  Paris. 

The  cars  or  coaches  here  are  very  different  from 
those  on  our  roads.  The  first-class  coaches  have  six 
seats,  the  cushions  stuffed  with  hair  and  lined  with 
silk.  The  second  and  third  class  cars  are  much  more 
crowded,  and  not  so  comfortable.  The  fare  is  two  to 
three  cents  per  mile.  The  roads  are  kept  in  splendid 
order,  and  to  prevent  accidents  you  will  see  a  woman 
standing  at  each  station  and  crossing  with  a  red  flag 
in  one  hand  and  a  trumpet  in  the  other,  ready  to 
sound  the  alarm  if  all  is  not  right.  They  have  no 
sleeping  cars,  as  with  us. 

This  mention  of  sleeping  cars,  reminds  me  of  an 
abominable  practice  they  have  on  the  night  trains 
running  between  Washington  and  New  York.  To 
secure  a  good  night's  rest,  I  engaged  a  berth  in  a 
sleeping  car  at  Washington  early  in  the  day,  as  I  was 
informed  that  those  who  failed  to  take  this  precaution 
had  to  sit  up  all  night.  My  check  called  for  letter  D, 
No.  32.  As  I  was  preparing  to  retire  for  the  night, 
the  weather  being  quite  hot,  I  began  to  doff  the 
heaviest  portion  of  my  wardrobe ;  to  my  surprise,  in 
stepped  a  lady  into  my  quarters,  and  was  preparing 
to  retire.  I  said  to  her,  "  Madame,  I  presume  you 
have  made  a  mistake  in  your  room."  She  said  her 
check  called  for  "31,"  which  was  immediately  under 
mine.  I  asked  the  steward  to  explain  matters,  and 
was  coolly  informed  that  ladies  were  as  much  en- 
titled to  sleeping  cars  as  the  men,  and  that  the  tickets 
were  sold  indiscriminately.     The  lady  did  not  seem 


European  Correspondence.  123 

scared.  I  imagine  she  was  a  traveller !  I  turned  in 
for  the  night,  and  thought  of  the  wonderful  improve- 
ment on  the  roads  during  our  four  years  imprison- 
ment in  the  Confederacy.  These  night  trains  are  said 
to  be  very  popular  with  the  members  of  Congress ; 
they  all  have  free  tickets. 

The  railways  in  France  are  generally  enclosed  with 
green  hedge  fences,  and  are  lined  with  beautiful 
flowers. 

The  hills  and  valleys  through  which  we  are  pass- 
ing are  picturesque.  The  impression,  however,  that 
"  every  foot  of  land  in  France  is  in  a  high  state  of 
cultivation  "  is  a  great  mistake.  I  should  think  that 
at  least  one-third  of  the  country  between  Brest  and 
Paris  is  uncultivated.  The  soil  is  naturally  very  poor, 
and  no  fertilizer  has  been  found  to  make  oats,  rye, 
grass  and  barley  grow  on  the  barren  hills  of  France. 
The  country  is  very  broken  and  rocky,  and  I  am 
struck  with  the  extreme  poverty  of  the  people.  I 
was  not  prepared  to  find  so  many  beggars,  they  are 
glad  to  receive  even  a  copper.  The  women  work  in 
the  fields,  generally  without  shoes,  bonnets  or  hats, 
and  do  not  require  Paris  hoops  to  show  off  their  well 
proportioned  limbs.  They  live  in  low  stone  houses 
looking  as  old  as  the  hills  by  which  they  are  sur- 
rounded; the  houses  are  covered  with  straw,  and 
poorly  ventilated.  In  the  same  yard,  you  find  a 
dwelling-house,  barn,  kitchen,  stables,  pig-pens  and 
haystacks,  having  anything  but  a  cleanly  and  inviting 
appearance.  I  understand,  however,  that  this  is  much 
the  poorest  portion  of  France.     The  agricultural  im- 


124  European  Correspondence. 

plernents  used  are  of  the  cheapest  quality.  I  observe 
them  cutting  oats  and  rye  with  reap-hooks,  such  as 
were  in  use  before  the  Christian  era.  Many  of  these 
people  do  not  know  what  it  is  to  sit  by  a  comfortable 
wood  fire,  the  trees  having  disappeared  from  the  land 
many  hundred  years  ago.  I  see  them  digging  up 
the  low  turfy  ground,  which,  when  dried,  possesses 
a  combustible  quality,  like  peat,  and  is  used  as  a  sub- 
stitute for  wood  or  coal.  You  will  learn,  from  the 
above  picture  that  I  am  somewhat  disappointed  in  the 
agricultural  appearance  and  condition  of  the  people 
and  country.  I  was  not  prepared  to  find  so  much 
poverty.  I  wish,  however,  to  be  understood  as  de- 
scribing the  general  appearance,  manners,  habits  and 
customs  of  the  inhabitants  as  they  appear  to  me  at  first 
sight.  In  our  journey,  we  have  passed,  for  miles, 
through  districts  in  the  highest  state  of  cultivation, 
and  have  seen  residences  that  would  do  credit  to 
Broadway.  We  have  also  passed  through  quite  a 
number  of  beautiful  villages  and  cities,  ornamented 
with  fine  churches,  public  buildings  and  manufactur- 
ing establishments.  A  large  proportion  of  the  men 
are  either  in  the  army,  or  are  employed  on  the  rail- 
roads, and  in  the  workshops.  The  women  till  the 
soil  and  populate  the  rural  districts,  often  without 
husbands  !  I  think  the  country  daughters  of  France 
have  a  hard  time  of  it.  The  curse  put  upon  mother 
Eve,  when  banished  from  the  Garden  of  Eden,  rests 
heavily  upon  them.  The  Old  Serpent's  head  may  be 
bruised,  but  he  is  not  dead  ;  his  foot-prints  are  to  be 
seen  all  along  these  valleys,  so  rich  with  flowers  and 


European  Correspondence.  125 

fruit.  But  here  is  Paris  !  What  a  change  in  the  pros- 
pect and  the  picture  !  This  wondrous  city  will  need 
a  letter  of  itself,  and,  possibly,  many  letters.  Nous 
verrons  ! 

G.  W.  W. 
Paris,  July,  1866. 


LETTER   THIRD. 


Paris  and  Napoleon. 

Well,  my  friend,  I  have  been  in  this  wonderful  city 
for  ten  days,  and  with  the  best  possible  facilities  for 
sight-seeing;  yet  I  have  had  but  a  bird's-eye  view  of 
the  thousand  and  one  objects  of  interest  to  be  seen 
here.  No  city  in  the  world  possesses  such  attractions 
as  the  metropolis  of  France.  It  is  the  policy  of  the 
government,  by  every  possible  means,  to  make  Paris 
the  centre  of  refinement,  luxury  and  pleasure.  In 
her  palaces  you  find  spacious  galleries  filled  with 
the  paintings,  statues,  and  antiquities  of  all  ages, 
executed  by  the  best  artists  throughout  the  habitable 
globe.  To  examine  each  painting  and  statue  care- 
fully would  require  months.  Here  you  find  a  city, 
the  work  of  eighteen  hundred  years,  encircled  by  a 
wall  twenty-one  miles  in  circumference,  covering  an 
area  of  nineteen  thousand  acres,  with  a  population  of 
two  million  souls.  Paris  has  been  the  recipient  of 
the  rich  spoils   of  the  most  successful  generals  that 


126  European  Correspondence. 

ever  engaged  in  warfare ;  and  it  has  been  the  prize 
over  which  ambitious  warriors  have  been  contending 
since  the  reign  of  Julius  Caesar.  There  is  scarcely 
a  fruit  or  flower  in  the  known  world  that  cannot 
be  found  in  the  open  gardens  or  conservatories  of 
Paris. 

Rome,  in  her  days  of  glory,  extended  her  con- 
quests over  France,  and  was  mistress  of  this  country 
for  several  centuries,  during  which  time  the  seeds  of 
the  Romish  Church  were  sown  broadcast,  and  they 
have  taken  deep  root.  In  the  administration  of  the 
government,  the  Church,  through  the  clergy,  often 
exercises  greater  influence  than  the  kings.  I  do  not 
look  upon  the  Romish  Church  as  I  did  in  my  youth. 
There  are  priests  in  Protestant  Churches  of  whom  I 
know,  who  would,  if  an  opportunity  offered,  be  as 
fierce  in  their  persecutions  as  the  Jacobins  of  France. 
In  the  sixteenth  century,  in  the  reign  of  Charles  IX 
and  Henry  III,  the  last  kings  of  the  Orleans  race,  the 
Protestants  were  persecuted  with  wanton  cruelty. 
Many  of  them  sought  a  refuge  in  the  Carolinas,  and 
their  descendants  are  our  most  honored  citizens.  The 
successful  termination  of  the  American  Revolution, 
which  French  money  and  French  valor  did  so  much 
to  accomplish,  doubtless  hastened  the  terrible  scenes 
of  the  French  Revolution.  In  the  history  of  France 
there  are  many  bloody  pages,  but  none  of  them  com- 
pare with  those  which  record  the  horrors  of  the  Reign 
of  Terror.  Young  Napoleon  Bonaparte  was  the  man 
to  bring  light  and  order  out  of  chaos  and  darkness. 
His   successful   campaigns   in  Italy,  Spain,  Germany 


European  Correspondence.  '  .127 

and  Egypt,  contributed  largely  to  the  galleries  of 
paintings  and  statues  that  are  found  so  interesting  to 
the  stranger  in  Paris. 

Napoleon  gave  the  French  capital  an  impetus  which 
has  been  onward  and  upward  in  a  career  of  increasing 
prosperity.  During  his  short  reign  he  spent  twenty- 
five  millions  of  dollars  in  beautifying  and  improving 
Paris.  But  Napoleon,  like  other  great  generals,  al- 
lowed an  ill-fated  ambition  to  ruin  him. 

Ambition !  Ah,  it  wells  up  even  in  the  bosom  of 
the  bare-footed  school  boy  on  discovering  that  he  can 
whistle  Yankee  Doodle,  and  has  mastered  his  A  B 
C's ;  and  when  he  can  begin  to  spell  dog  and  cat,  he 
feels  that  he  is  a  scholar,  and  destined  to  be  a  states- 
man. When  he  learns  to  read  of  the  conquests  of 
Alexander  the  Great,  and  of  the  discoveries  of  Chris- 
topher Columbus,  he  turns  soldier,  and  marches  his 
imaginary  army  to  the  music  of  an  old  tin  pan,  and 
he  launches  his  little  bark  on  the  ocean  under  the  sail 
of  a  pigeon's  wing.  Ambition  is  a  noble  virtue  when 
properly  directed ;  but  when  it  impels  a  man  to  put 
aside  a  Josephine,  because  she  cannot  be  the  mother 
of  young  kings  and  princes,  and  sacrifices  half  a  mil- 
lion of  lives  in  attempting  to  march  to  the  snow-clad 
city  of  Moscow,  ambition  of  such  a  kind  becomes  a 
criminal  passion  meriting  God's  judgment. 

Josephine  was  the  guardian  angel  of  Napoleon,  and 
when  he  put  her  away  for  a  new  wife,  Fate  turned 
against  him,  and  his  star  set  to  rise  no  more !  Napo- 
leon's remains  were  brought  from  St.  Helena  by 
Prince   de  Joinville  in   1840.     Few  persons  come  to 


128  European  Correspondence. 

Paris  without  visiting  the  tomb  of  Napoleon.  More 
than  a  million  of  dollars  have  already  been  expended 
upon  it,  and  the  mechanics  are  still  at  work.  It  is 
one  of  the  most  splendid  monuments  in  the  world, 
but  the  name  of  Napoleon  Bonaparte  will  last  when 
this  magnificent  monument  shall  crumble  into  dust. 
On  the  tomb  is  the  following  inscription,  extracted 
from  his  will :  "  I  desire  that  my  ashes  may  repose  on 
the  banks  of  the  Seine,  in  the  midst  of  that  people  of 
France  whom  I  have  loved  so  much."  In  a  recess 
are  placed  his  sword  and  hat,  also  a  large  number  of 
flags  captured  in  battle,  and  the  golden  crown  pre- 
sented to  him  by  the  town  of  Cherbourg.  No  man 
ever  wound  himself  around  the  hearts  of  the  people 
of  France  as  did  Napoleon  Bonaparte. 

Napoleon  III  is  the  man  of  the  nineteenth  century. 
He  has  the  head  of  Napoleon  I ;  but  thus  far  has 
steered  clear  of  the  rock  on  which  his  uncle  foun- 
dered. The  French  nation,  under  the  rule  of  the 
present  Emperor,  has  made  rapid  progress  in  wealth, 
power  and  greatness.  Napoleon  had  been  President 
of  the  Republic  of  France  only  two  years  when  he 
was  proclaimed  Emperor  in  1852.  Napoleon  III  has 
now  governed  France  as  long  as  any  of  his  prede- 
cessors since  the  days  of  Louis  XV,  who  reigned 
for  forty  years.  No  monarch  ever  governed  a  nation 
with  better  judgment  than  the  present  Emperor,  and 
he  exerts  this  day  greater  influence  over  the  destinies 
of  Europe  than  all  the  kings  and  queens  on  this  con- 
tinent. Through  his  diplomacy  nearly  all  the  wars 
that  have  occurred  in  Europe  since  his  reign  have  been 


European  Correspondence.  129 

settled.  The  Emperor  will  be  likely  to  embrace  the 
present  opportunity  of  restoring  some  of  the  territo- 
rial lines  that  were  so  deranged  when  Napoleon  I 
was  banished.  It  is  a  bold  thing  to  make  a  demand 
on  a  nation  like  Prussia,  which  has  so  recently 
vindicated  its  character  for  military  prowess,  and 
a  nation,  too,  that  has  seven  hundred  thousand 
trained  soldiers,  flushed  with  victory  and  distin- 
guished for  valor  to  stand  behind  the  celebrated 
"  needle-gun." 

It  would  be  a  terrible  thing  for  two  great  nations 
to  go  to  war  about  such  an  insignificant  territory  as 
that  of  Sarlouis,  but  when  the  pride  of  a  nation  is 
aroused,  and  its  national  honor  seems  at  stake,  the 
question  of  a  few  square  miles  may  bring  the  armies 
of  the  two  great  nations  of  France  and  Prussia  into 
bloody  conflict.  When  Napoleon  makes  a  demand, 
he  will  be  likely  to  adhere  to  it  at  all  hazards.  I 
cannot  think  that  Prussia  will  risk  the  advantages 
so  recently  obtained  over  Austria,  by  refusing  what 
seems  a  reasonable  demand  of  France.  France  does 
not  ask  that  the  kingdom  conquered  by  Napoleon  be 
restored,  but  that  the  old  lines  of  1792  and  18 14  be 
re-established.  After  the  battle  of  Waterloo,  a  treaty 
known  as  the  Peace  of  18 15  was  made,  and  the 
fortresses  of  Sarlouis  and  Landau  were  taken  from 
the  French.  They  cover  a  territory  not  twenty-five 
miles  square.  Prussia  only  has  possession  of  Sar- 
louis ;  Landau  is  in  Rhenish  Bavaria.  The  Germans 
say  they  will  not  be  "  treated  as  Mexicans,"  but  resist 
to  the  last  extremity  any  interference  by  France  with 
17 


130  European  Correspondence. 

their  domestic  relations.  A  few  weeks  will  decide  the 
question,  and  it  is  greatly  to  be  desired  that  it  be 
settled  without  the  shedding  of  blood. 

G.  W.  W. 
Paris,  August,   1866. 


LETTER    FOURTH 


The  Emperor 's  Fete — Decoration  of  Napoleon's  Grave — 
Mimic  War  and  Real  War. 

The  1 6th  of  August  in  Paris  is  like  the  4th  of  July 
in  New  York,  and  Christmas  at  the  South,  only  "a 
good  deal  more  so."  From  the  1st  to  the  16th,  little 
else  is  talked  of  here  but  the  Emperor's  fete.  This  is 
a  national  and  a  church  festival  combined.  On  this 
grand  occasion  free  indulgence,  and  the  greatest  lib- 
erties, are  granted  both  by  Church  and  State.  The 
lame,  the  halt,  the  blind,  who  have  been  shut  up  for 
twelve  months  by  the  strictest  police  regulations,  are 
now  permitted  to  ascend  from  the  dark,  damp  cellar, 
and  descend  from  the  lofty  cramped  attics  to  beseech 
alms  of  the  millions  who  are  swarming  in  the  streets. 
The  privilege  of  asking  alms  in  Paris  is  granted  only 
on  the  occasion  of  the  fete.  Large  sums  of  money 
are  expended  by  the  government  in  preparing  for  this 
annual  celebration.  The  railways  reduce  their  fare  to 
a  very  low  rate,  and  the  country  comes  to  town,  from 
A  to  Z.     I  made  four  excursions  on  the  tops  of  the 


European  Correspondence.  131 

omnibuses  to  the  suburbs  of  Paris,  to  see  the  vast 
multitude  of  people,  as  they  came  crowding  into  the 
city  in  the  antiquated  carriages  of  the  first  century. 
The  throng  was  so  great  in  the  streets,  it  was  worth 
one's  life  to  attempt  to  walk.  The  houses  from  cellar 
to  garret  were  decorated  with  national  flags.  Even 
the  horses'  heads  were  ornamented  with  them. 

The  honor  of  announcing  that  the  fete  had  com- 
menced was  conferred  on  the  small  remnant  of  Napo- 
leon's veterans  and  invalids.  The  booming  cannon 
was  heard  at  an  early  hour  from  the  hospital  for  the 
superannuated  soldiers.  At  various  points  in  the  city 
depots  of  provisions  were  established,  and  gratui- 
tously distributed  to  the  poor  and  infirm.  Many  a 
poor  soul  was  made  happy  by  this  charity,  which  is 
said  to  have  been  paid  for  out  of  the  Emperor's  private 
purse.  The  six  hundred  thousand  troops  received  a 
double  portion  of  wine,  and  all  who  could  be  relieved 
from  service  were  permitted  to  leave  the  barracks  and 
be  out  till  12  o'clock  at  night.  The  military  with  their 
splendid  bands  paraded  the  streets,  and  were  objects 
of  great  attraction. 

On  this  occasion,  it  is  the  custom  of  the  old  soldiers 
of  the  First  Emperor  to  visit  his  tomb  and  decorate 
his  grave  with  a  fresh  wreath  of  flowers.  This,  to  me, 
was  an  affecting  and  interesting  sight.  The  number 
of  these  faithful  veterans  is  diminishing  every  year. 
Like  the  fathers  of  our  own  Revolution,  they  have 
nearly  all  gone  to  their  rest. 

At  1  o'clock  the  theatres,  operas,  museums,  and 
all  public  places  of   amusement  were   thrown   open 


132  European  Cotrespondence. 

without  charge  for  admittance.  The  vast  multitude 
of  people  began  to  assemble  around  these  houses  at 
the  dawn  of  day.  Many  stood  at  the  doors  five  to 
six  hours.  They  were  kept  in  a  line  of  ten  abreast 
by  the  police.  These  lines  were  often  several  hun- 
dred yards  in  length. 

This  is  a  proof  of  the  fondness  of  the  French  for 
amusements.  They  are  a  gay,  light-hearted  people. 
On  the  River  Seine  the  boat  races  took  place.  These 
races  drew  large  crowds  to  witness  the  successful 
competitors  for  the  prizes. 

The  garden  of  the  Tuileries  was  thronged  all  day. 
Near  the  Royal  Palace  was  erected  a  lofty  colonnade 
formed  of  colored  lamps,  arranged  with  great  taste; 
the  letter  N  in  gold  color,  and  the  imperial  crown,  in 
crimson,  appeared  on  the  columns.  The  four  side 
avenues,  leading  from  the  palace  to  the  fountain, 
were  beautifully  decorated  with  lamps  and  Chinese 
lanterns  of  the  variegated  colors  of  orange,  pink, 
blue,  red  and  green.  The  effect  was  very  beautiful. 
The  fountains  were  all  set  free  for  performance,  and 
the  display  of  water  works  seen  at  night  through  the 
brilliant  illumination  was  grand  to  behold.  Down 
the  centre  avenue  of  the  garden,  stood  at  equal  dis- 
tances, lofty  piles,  bearing  each  an  escutcheon  of 
colored  lamps  having  an  N  in  green,  surmounted  by 
white,  and  a  crown  in  yellow.  The  tri-colored  French 
flag  floated  at  the  top  of  each.  In  the  Place  de  Con- 
corde— the  famous  square  where  Louis  XVI  and 
Marie  Antoinette  were  guillotined — the  globes  were 
lar<je  and  of  ground  elass,  lighted  with  eas.     In  the 


European  Correspondence.  133 

centre  of  that  avenue  is  an  ornamental  garden,  gotten 
up  for  the  occasion,  filled  with  the  choicest  flowers 
and  shrubs.  This  was  formed  around  an  "  Egyptian 
Palace,"  with  lofty  colonnades,  having  gas  pipes  run- 
ning through  it,  which  would  give  more  than  fifty 
thousand  jets  of  flame.  On  the  faces,  north  and  south, 
appeared  the  Imperial  Eagle,  and  on  the  east  and 
west,  two  immense  suns.  Up  the  avenue  of  the 
Champs  Elysees  rows  of  white  globes  ran  along  each 
side  for  more  than  a  mile,  extending  to  the  Triumphal 
Arch.  This  grand  monument  was  brilliantly  illumi- 
nated, displaying  to  fine  advantage  the  historical 
scenes  illustrative  of  the  many  hard  fought  battles  and 
victories  of  Napoleon  I. 

A  little  after  dusk  we  started  in  a  carriage  to  the 
garden  of  the  Tuileries  and  Champs  Elysees,  but 
the  police  stopped  us,  as  carriages  were  not  permitted 
to  be  driven  within  a  mile  of  either  place.  Not  will- 
ing to  risk  our  lives  in  the  crowd,  we  drove  some  four 
miles,  and  came  into  the  rear  of  the  illumination 
where  the  crowd  was  not  so  dense,  and  where  we  had 
a  fine  view  from  a  high  hill,  near  the  new  Fair  Grounds. 
The  festoons  of  lights  crossing  each  other  in  every 
direction,  and  the  beautiful  effect  of  the  fountains 
playing,  made  the  scene  quite  enchanting.  The  pri- 
vate houses,  markets,  hotels,  etc.,  were  generally 
illuminated  either  with  long  lines  of  gas-burners,  or 
with  Venetian  lanterns.  The  use  of  fire-crackers  in 
the  streets  has  wisely  been  abolished.  The  fireworks 
on  the  Seine  were  grand.  They  commenced  by  a 
flight  of  rockets,  succeeded  by  an  eruption  of  Roman 


!34  European  Correspondence. 

candles,  filling  the  air  with  various  hues.  The  illumi- 
nation representing  the  initials  of  the  Emperor's 
family  was  probably  more  admired  than  any  part  of 
the  exhibition. 

We  reached  home  a  little  after  midnight,  highly 
delighted  with  the  day's  entertainment.  A  finer  dis- 
play of  fireworks  I  do  not  suppose  could  be  produced 
in  any  country.  On  this  occasion  there  were  twice  as 
many  people  in  the  streets  of  Paris  as  there  are  in  the 
great  State  of  Georgia ;  and  to  their  credit  be  it  said, 
I  did  not  during  the  whole  day  see  a  drunken  man. 
This  vast  mass  of  human  beings  was  to  me  wonderfully 
interesting.  The  spectacle  of  a  great  city  pouring 
forth  its  swarms  by  concert,  numerous  as  bees,  is 
always  a  sight  to  seize  upon  the  senses  as  with  a  feel- 
ing of  awe.  At  one  or  two  crossings  on  the  Seine, 
the  crowds  were  so  dense  that  hundreds  were  tram- 
pled under  foot,  and.some  twenty  persons  killed.  The 
wonder  is  that  more  accidents  did  not  occur. 

About  io  o'clock,  we  stood  on  a  high  point  of  land 
near  the  Triumphal  Arch,  and  had  a  fine  view  of  the 
whole  display  of  fireworks.  They  represented  in  one 
portion  of  the  exhibition  a  battle  of  infantry  and 
artillery.  You  could  hear  the  sound  of  the  musketry, 
and  see  the  flash  of  the  cannon,  and  then  the  fuse 
shell  burst  in  the  air,  and  in  a  moment  more  you 
would  hear  the  explosion.  The  scene  reminded 
me  forcibly  of  the  fete  on  Morris's  Island,  gotten 
up  by  General  Gilmore,  and  suddenly  opening  at 
midnight  for  the  amusement  (?)  of  the  people  of 
Charleston. 


European  Coircspondence.  135 

Just  think  of  a  Christian  nation  who  were  for  two 
years  employed  in  throwing  hot  shot  and  shell  into  a 
city  among  helpless  women  and  children  !  Let  it  not 
be  told  abroad,  or  written  in  history,  that  a  nation  all 
one  blood  could  be  engaged  in  such  warfare.  History 
teaches  us,  that  civil  wars,  of  all  others,  are  the  most 
terrible,  reckless  and  remorseless.  Just  look  at  Ger- 
many. You  see  a  million  and  a  half  of  men  speaking 
the  same  language,  sons  of  the  same  Fatherland, 
divided  only  by  artificial  lines,  engaged  in  the  most 
deadly  conflict,  and  sending  death,  desolation  and 
misery  throughout  the  land.  Hear  what  a  heart- 
broken mother  says  after  the  last  battle  fought  in 
Germany,  near  Prague,  when  the  Austrians  suffered 
so  severely : 

"  Deeply  afflicted,  I  announce  to  our  relations  and 
friends,  that  my  beloved  husband  died  yesterday 
morning  from  the  terrible  agitation  caused  by  the 
death  of  our  children.  Our  five  sons,  Francis  Joseph, 
Ernest,  George,  Leopold,  and  Henrich  de  Stovolinski, 
have  all  laid  down  their  lives  for  their  beloved  Em- 
peror and  master.  Four  young  widows  and  an  only 
sister  mourn  with  me  !     De  Stovolinski." 

What  a  picture  !  Such  is  war !  May  a  kind  and 
merciful  Providence  guide  our  people  for  all  time  to 
come,  in  the  paths  of  peace,  love  and  unity. 

G.  W.  W. 

Paris,  August,   1866. 


LETTER    FIFTH. 


Preparing  to  Leave  Paris — Market-places — Pere  la 
Chaise — Population  of  Paris — Revenue — Bank  of 
France. 

If  I  am  to  visit  Southern  France  ;  to  sail  on  the 
lake  of  Geneva;  to  climb  the  snow-capped  Alps  of 
Switzerland;  to  look  upon  the  million  and  a  half 
of  Austrian  and  Prussian  soldiers  who  are  standing  in 
battle  array,  awaiting  the  orders  of  their  generals,  I 
must  not  linger  too  long  on  the  banks  of  the  Seine — 
in  the  garden  of  the  Tuileries,  nor  wander  in  the 
market-places  looking  at  the  women  coming  in  from 
their  little  country  gardens  with  their  long  baskets 
strapped  on  their  backs,  filled  with  vegetables  to  feed 
the  millions  of  hungry  people  ;  nor  linger  even  to 
admire  the  five  thousand  fat  butchers,  with  miles  of 
stalls,  filled  with  beef,  pork,  mutton,  lamb  and  veal ; 
nor  pause  to  survey  the  myriads  of  fish,  and  the  acres 
of  wine,  beer,  cider,  ale,  eggs,  butter  and  cheese ;  and 
the  white  "maummas"  with  twenty  thousand  baskets 
filled  with  peaches,  nectarines,  pears,  plums,  grapes, 
prunes  and  figs,  all  from  the  valleys  and  vine-clad 
hills  of  France. 

But  I  must  linger  awhile  longer  in  the  flower 
market,  among  the  three  thousand  Gypsy  girls,  for 
they    have    the    choicest   bouquets,    made    from    the 


European  Correspondence.  1 37 

sweetest  flowers  of  France.  The  flower  markets  of 
Paris  are  very  agreeable  sights,  and  here  floriculture 
is  brought  to  the  highest  state  of  perfection. 

When  I  walk  through  these  miles  of  markets,  and 
look  at  the  immense  quantity  of  vegetables,  beef,  pork, 
mutton,  poultry,  fish,  butter,  cheese,  wine,  beer,  eggs, 
fruit,  etc.,  I  can  but  ask  the  question — "Where  will 
they  find  purchasers  for  these  vast  supplies  ?"  But 
when  I  have  left  the  market-places,  and  walked 
through  the  broad  avenues  and  boulevards,  jostled  on 
every  side  by  the  masses  of  all  sorts  of  people,  then  I 
find  myself  asking  the  question — "  How  is  this  vast 
multitude  to  be  fed  ?"  To  associate,  in  one  idea,  the 
markets  with  the  masses,  gives  us  the  immediate 
reply. 

These  market-places  were  originally  in  a  cemetery. 
The  dealers  had  their  stalls  among  the  tombstones. 
In  the  course  of  time,  burials  in  the  cemetery  were 
interdicted,  and  the  tombstones  gave  place  to  perma- 
nent market-booths,  and  at  length  the  graveyard  was 
dug  up  and  levelled,  and  these  long  lines  of  markets 
established.  The  foundations  for  life  are  thus  ever 
laid  on  those  of  death  ! 

The  cemeteries  of  Paris  have  interested  me,  and  I 
have  visited  several  of  them.  Interments  in  church- 
yards have,  for  a  long  time,  been  wisely  prohibited. 
The  early  burying-grounds  have  all  been  levelled,  and 
splendid  houses  and  streets  have  been  built  over  them. 
Pere  la  Chaise  is  the  largest  cemetery,  and  contains 
two  hundred  acres  of  land.  It  is  beautifully  situated 
in  the  suburbs  of  Paris ;  is  surrounded  by  valleys ; 
18 


138  European  Correspondence. 

and  commands  not  only  a  fine  view  of  the  city,  but  of 
the  surrounding  country.  It  remains  to  be  seen 
whether  this  cemetery  will  share  the  fate  of  its  prede- 
cessors. The  number  and  costliness  of  its  monuments 
and  the  celebrated  names  it  contains,  may  protect  it 
from  the  encroachments  of  the  city,  for  at  least  one 
generation. 

In  this  silent  "  city  of  the  dead,"  I  spent  nearly  a 
day  in  looking  at  the  monuments  of  the  great  men 
and  women  of  France. 

The  first  monument  that  attracted  my  attention 
here  was  that  of  M'lle  Rachel,  the  celebrated  actress. 
The  last  time  her  charming  voice  was  heard  on  the 
stage,  was  in  the  winter  of  1855,  in  Charleston,  S.  C. 
She  was  then  on  her  way  to  the  beautiful  land  of 
Cuba  for  the  benefit  of  her  health.  I  was  a  fellow 
passenger  of  hers  on  the  Steamship  Isabel  from 
Charleston  to  Havana,  and  shall  never  forget  her 
sad,  sweet  countenance.  After  reaching  Havana,  the 
balmy  climate  so  revived  her  that  she  made  an  effort, 
at  the  solicitation  of  many  admirers,  to  appear  again 
on  the  stage — but  alas!  the  slow  but  fatal  consumption 
had  made  too  deep  inroads  on  her  shattered  constitu- 
tion— she  could  not  fulfil  her  engagements.  Poor 
Rachel !  On  being  told  that  there  was  no  hope  of 
her  recovery,  she  asked  to  be  carried  to  her  native 
land  to  die.  After  arriving  in  Paris,  she  lingered 
a  few  weeks,  and  passed  away.  She  was  buried  in 
the  Jewish  cemetery,  which  is  separated  from  the 
Christian  portion  by  a  wall.  The  simple  inscription 
"  Rachel,"  appears  on  her  monument.     In  the  same 


European  Correspondence.  139 

enclosure  are  the  family  vaults  of  the  celebrated 
Rothschilds.  "  Rothschild"  is  all  that  is  inscribed  on 
the  handsome  but  plain  tomb. 

I  was  surprised  to  find  the  graves  of  a  number  of 
Englishmen  in  this  cemetery — among  them  that  of 
Sidney  Smith.  The  most  expensive  monument  is  that 
of  Countess  Demidoff.  It  rests  on  a  huge  basement 
of  sculptured  masonry,  and  is  accessible  by  a  flight  of 
stairs.  The  monument  itself  consists  of  eighteen 
columns  of  white  marble — the  tomb  is  ornamented  by 
a  cushion,  bearing  the  name  and  coronet  of  the  de- 
ceased. Not  far  from  this  magnificent  monument,  is 
a  garden  ten  feet  square,  which  interested  me  more 
than  the  splendid  tomb  of  the  Countess.  The  garden 
is  filled  with  roses,  violets,  lilies,  and  other  flowers. 
The  short  mounds  of  earth  indicate  that  there  had 
been  six  children  buried  within  the  enclosure.  On  a 
small  marble  tablet  which  stands  in  the  centre,  is  in- 
scribed :  "  Rachel  weepeth  for  her  children,  and  will 
not  be  comforted  because  they  are  not."  Here  is  a 
beautiful  tribute  of  a  sorrowing  mother  to  her  beloved 
children. 

We  next  come  to  an  iron  railing,  enclosing  the  re- 
mains of  the  unfortunate  friend  of  Napoleon,  Marshal 
Ney.  No  monument  marks  his  grave.  The  ground 
is  laid  out  as  a  small  flower  garden.  A  monument, 
however,  has  been  erected  at  the  end  of  "Boulevard 
de  Sevastapol,"  on  the  spot  where  Marshal  Ney  was 
shot.     This  was  raised  in  December,    181 5. 

Since  the  opening  of  Pere  la  Chaise,  in  1804,  more 
than  thirty  millions  of  dollars  have  been  expended  in 


140     fc  European  Correspondence. 

monuments  alone.  The  number  of  tombs  is  twenty 
thousand,  and  of  persons  interred,  three  hundred  and 
twenty-five  thousand.  As  some  fifty  thousand  per- 
sons die  every  year  in  Paris,  the  cemeteries  neces- 
sarily fill  up  very  rapidly.  Whole  families  are  often 
buried  in  a  space  occupied  by  one  grave — the  first  in- 
terment is  made  very  deep,  and  the  coffins  are  placed 
over  each  other,  being  separated  by  stone  slabs.  I 
saw  the  seventh  coffin  put  into  one  of  these  vaults. 
The  poor  are  buried  quite  shallow,  and  their  time  of 
rest  in  the  cemeteries  is  of  very  short  duration — only 
the  rich  are  able  to  have  perpetual  graves.  The  ex- 
perience is,  that  no  cemetery  stands  in  Paris  more 
than  a  century.  A  hundred  years  hence  it  will  not 
make  much  difference  with  the  dead,  whether  their 
ashes  lie  in  marble  vaults  or  have  been  scattered  in 
the  valleys  to  make  the  flowers  grow  more  beautifully. 
It  is  the  immortal  part  of  man  that  we  are  interested 
in.     If  that  is  in  a  safe  place,  then  all  will  be  well. 

Notwithstanding  there  is  much  poverty  and  suffer- 
ing in  Paris,  still  the  condition  of  the  poor  has  greatly 
improved  within  the  past  twenty  years,  and  if  France 
will  cultivate  peace,  the  improvement  will  be  much 
greater.  War  has  been  the  curse  of  the  Old  World 
since  the  days  of  Julius  Caesar.  Population  in  Eu- 
rope does  not  increase  as  with  us.  France  had  a 
population  in  1800  of  twenty-seven  millions;  she  now 
has  thirty-seven  million  eight  hundred  thousand,  an 
increase  in  sixty-five  years  of  only  forty  per  cent. 
The  population  in  Paris  in  1800,  was  seven  hundred 
thousand,  now  it  is  two  million.     It  will  be  seen  that  the 


European  Correspondence.  141 

increase  of  the  city  has  been  far  greater  than  that  of 
the  country.  The  number  of  births  in  Paris  is  sixty 
thousand  per  annum,  twenty  thousand  of  this  number 
are  illegitimate.  One-third  of  the  inhabitants  of  the 
city,  and  a  greater  proportion  in  the  country,  are  not 
recognized  by  their  parents. 

Paris  is  draining  the  life-blood  of  the  agricultural 
and  manufacturing  districts  by  heavy  taxation.  A 
farmer  cannot  enter  the  city  without  having  his  trunk 
examined  by  a  public  officer.  A  poor  market  woman, 
the  mother  of  half  a  dozen  little  children,  who  wades 
through  wet  and  cold  for  miles,  with  her  basket  of 
vegetables  strapped  on  her  back,  and  often  with  a 
child  in  her  arms,  is  required  to  make  a  declaration 
and  pay  the  duties.  Nothing  is  exempt.  The  amount 
of  revenue  derived  from  the  agricultural  and  manu- 
facturing districts  is  immense ;  but  it  is  all  needed. 
The  expenses  of  the  city  government  are  startling, 
amounting  to  forty  millions  of  dollars  per  annum — 
being  greater  than  the  expense  of  the  whole  United 
States  Government  in  its  early  administration.  The 
military,  police,  and  public  assistance  of  Paris  costs 
eight  million  per  annum,  and  there  was  expended 
last  year  for  public  works  five  million.  The  present 
Emperor  thinks  nothing  of  pulling  down  a  hundred 
houses  to  widen  a  street,  and  to  exhibit  a  better  view 
of  a  favorite  church — the  Cathedral  of  Notre  Dame 
for  instance. 

Paris  being  an  inland  city,  has  a  limited  foreign 
commerce,  but  the  amount  of  merchandise  sold  in  the 
hundred    thousand    stores    and    shops    is    immense. 


142  European  Correspondence. 

There  are  twenty-five  thousand  clothing  establish- 
ments in  Paris.  Nearly  half  a  million  of  men  and 
women  are  employed  in  the  shops ;  the  wages  received 
give  them  a  bare  subsistence.  The  Emperor,  in 
1856,  purchased  eighteen  thousand  square  metres  of 
ground,  on  the  Boulevard  Mazas,  on  which  houses 
have  been  erected  and  rented  to  the  poor  at  low 
rates. 

The  Bank  of  France  is  a  mammoth  concern ;  is 
under  government  control,  and  has  the  exclusive 
monopoly  of  issuing  notes,  which  are  payable  at  sight 
in  coin.  The  bank  was  established  in  1803,  with  a 
capital  of  ten  million  dollars,  which  has  been  increased 
to  forty  millions.  It  is  managed  by  a  governor,  two 
deputy  governors,  three  censors,  and  a  council  com- 
posed of  twelve  members.  The  accounts  are  made 
up  daily  and  laid  before  the  Board  of  Directors,  and 
are  published  monthly.  Their  last  statement  showed 
thirty  millions  of  dollars  of  specie  in  the  vaults.  It 
pays  twelve  to  fifteen  per  cent,  to  its  shareholders. 
The  lowest  rate  of  discount  since  1852,  was  three  and 
a  half — the  highest,  nine  per  cent.  During  the  past 
six  months,  when  the  rate  of  interest  in  the  Bank  of 
England  was  ten  per  cent.,  money  was  abundant  in 
Paris  at  four  per  cent.  Napoleon  has  in  his  council 
men  well  versed  in  political  economy  and  finance.  I 
asked  my  banker  why  he  did  not  use  his  money 
in  London  while  there  was  a  difference  of  six  per 
cent,  in  the  rate  of  interest  between  the  two  cities. 
His  reply  was,  that  if  his  depositors  knew  he  was 
using    funds    in    London    there    would   be   a   run   on 


European  Correspondence.  143 

his  bank.  The  recent  heavy  failures  in  London  have 
shaken  the  confidence  of  capitalists  here  in  English 
credits. 

G.  W.  W. 


LETTER    SIXTH. 


Humiliation  of  Napoleon  III — Triumph  of  tlie  Ger- 
mans— Paris  a  Hive  of  Busy  Bees — Grand  Hotel — 
Hotel  Dieu — Cliolera — Armistice  between  Austria  and 
Prussia. 

If  the  Emperor  made  a  mistake  in  claiming  Lan- 
dau and  Sarlouis  of  the  Prussians,  he  has  shown  his 
great  wisdom  in  quietly  and  peaceably  withdrawing 
his  claim  on  German  territory.  Napoleon  First  would 
have  risked  his  government,  and  sacrificed  the  lives 
of  a  hundred  thousand  men,  rather  than  submit  to 
the  humiliation  of  being  backed  down  by  Bismark, 
which  the  present  Emperor  and  every  Frenchman 
must  feel  at  this  time. 

Napoleon  III  was  not  slow  in  discovering  that  there 
was  fight  in  the  obstinate  Germans.  The  old  King  of 
Prussia  is  never  happier  than  when  engaged  in  the 
thickest  of  the  battle,  and  he  has  at  his  command  the 
best  disciplined  and  trained  army  in  the  world,  ready 
to  march  at  a  moment's  notice  to  the  battle-field. 
Count  Bismark  could  therefore  give  a  prompt  and 
decisive  reply  to  the  modest  request  of  the  Emperor  : 


144  European  Correspondence. 

"  Not  one  foot  of  German  territory  will  Prussia  yield." 
The  mortification  to  French  pride  is  withering  in  any 
light  in  which  you  can  view  the  question. 

If  the  demand  was  so  small  as  to  be  yielded,  rather 
than  provoke  a  dispute,  it  proved  clearly  the  strength 
and  mettle  of  the  German  power  in  promptly  declar- 
ing that  they  would  go  to  war  with  France  rather  than 
submit  to  even  the  shadow  of  dictation  or  exaction 
from  the  French  Government.  The  settlement  of 
this  queston  proves  that  the  French  are  not  prepared 
for  war,  and  that  they  have  a  prudent  and  wise  ruler. 
It  also  establishes  the  fact,  that  there  is  a  great  Ger- 
man Confederacy,  which  is  not  afraid  to  cross  swords 
with  the  most  powerful  nation  in  Europe.  I  heartily 
rejoice  that  this  question,  which  threatened  the  peace 
of  Europe,  has  been  settled,  without  a  resort  to  arms. 

I  have  now  been  fifteen  days  looking  at  the  beauties 
of  the  French  metropolis.  A  fortnight  more,  and  I 
hope  to  be  pretty  well  acquainted  with  Paris. 

I  was  fortunate  in  making  the  acquaintance  of  Dr. 
Bogle,  of  New  Orleans,  on  my  way  from  New  York. 
We  are  joined  here  by  his  brother,  who  is  a  surgeon 
in  the  Austrian  army.  My  friends  speak  English, 
French  and  German,  which  facilitates  our  sight-seeing 
very  much.  We  go  forth  from  early  morning  till  late 
at  night.  When  it  rains  we  visit  the  galleries  of  fine 
arts,  museums,  etc.,  and  when  the  sun  shines  we  ride 
on  the  tops  of  the  omnibuses,  and  look  at  the  crowds 
of  people,  at  the  fine  houses  and  gardens. 

The  omnibus  lines  run  through  the  splendid  boule- 
vards and  broad  avenues  of  Paris — streets  as  smooth 


European  Correspondence.  145 

as  the  ocean  beach.  We  have  climbed  to  the  tops  of 
the  lofty  church  steeples,  and  triumphal  arches,  and 
looked  at  the  wonderful  spectacle  of  more  than  a 
hundred  thousand  houses  encircled  within  the  walls 
of  Paris.  In  this  busy  hive — this  aggregation  of  two 
millions  of  souls — you  see  the  restless  French  people, 
who,  not  a  century  ago,  under  the  guidance  of  such 
spirits  as  Robespierre,  made  the  streets  run  with 
blood.  You  remember  a  famous  reply  of  Robespierre, 
justifying  his  massacres  :  "  It  should  not  be  denied  to 
the  people,  who  have  suffered  for  ages,  to  enjoy  the 
vengeance  of  a  single  day."  It  was  an  uprising  of  a 
long  oppressed  democracy,  against  a  tyrannical  feudal 
aristocracy.  The  mob  was  not  satisfied  with  the  blood 
of  the  living  monarchs,  but  they  destroyed  the  long 
range  of  royal  tombs,  scattering  their  bodies  in  every 
stage  of  decay.  The  remains  of  Louis  XVI,  and 
Marie  Antoinette,  were  burned.  The  Bastile  was 
destroyed,  and  the  churches  and  the  galleries  of  art 
suffered  severely  in  this  reign  of  terror.  The  vast 
living  multitude  beneath  us,  unite  in  shouting,  "  Long 
live  the  Emperor."  When  the  inmates  of  these  dese- 
crated tombs  had  life  in  their  bodies,  the  same  homage 
was  paid  them  by  many  who  indulged  in  the  savage 
brutality  of  desecrating  their  graves.  Thus  has  it 
been  from  the  beginning,  and  thus  it  will  be  to  the 
end  of  time. 

The  present  Emperor  is  undoubtedly  very  popular, 

but  there  is   a  vast  multitude  of  Frenchmen,  of  the 

Bourbon  school,  who  regard  him  as  an  usurper,  and 

say  no   nation   in   the  world   is   governed  with  such 

19 


146  European  Correspondence. 

tyranny  as  France.  The  elective  franchise  is  nomi- 
nally extended  to  all,  but  those  who  are  elected  by  the 
people  cannot  even  introduce  a  bill  before  the  legisla- 
tive body,  without  the  sanction  of  the  power  controlled 
by  the  Emperor.  The  press,  which  is  a  true  index  of 
freedom  of  speech,  has  the  eye  of  the  censor  on  every 
line  written,  before  it  is  read  by  the  people.  All  the 
officers  of  this  vast  army  of  six  hundred  thousand 
men  are  appointed  by  the  Emperor.  Napoleon  III, 
with  all  his  faults,  is  doing  a  great  deal  for  the 
French  nation.  He  knows  the  composition  of  his 
people,  and  just  how  much  liberty  they  can  endure. 
The  Emperor  encourages  the  division  of  the  great 
landed  estates,  and  thus  stimulates  men  with  limited 
means  to  become  owners  of  the  soil.  I  am  sure  that 
the  wealth  of  our  own  sunny  South  will  be  increased 
by  the  adoption  of  the  French  system.  Our  large 
landed  proprietors  must  cut  up  their  broad  acres  into 
small  farms,  and  invite  foreign  immigration,  and  make 
it  to  the  interest  of  the  active  laborers  of  the  North, 
East  and  West,  to  come  South  with  their  energy  and 
capital. 

I  have  been  struck  with  the  uniformity  of  the  archi- 
tecture in  Paris.  The  houses  are  substantially  built 
of  free  stone,  often  six  and  seven  stories  high  ;  they 
frequently  contain  a  family  on  each  floor. 

The  hotels  are  numerous,  and  some  are  very  fine. 
The  Grand  Hotel  is  the  largest  in  Europe,  it  has 
seven  hundred  rooms,  and  seventy  saloons.  The 
Hotel  de  Louvre  has  six  hundred  rooms.  These  two 
mammoth  hotels  are  owned  by  one  company.     I  have 


European  Correspondence.  147 

divided  my  time  between  them,  to  learn  their  manage- 
ment, and  to  see  the  vast  multitude  of  English  and 
American  travellers  who  frequent  them.  The  French 
are  too  careful  of  their  money  to  pay  eight  francs  for 
a  dinner,  when  they  can  get  just  as  good  for  four. 
They  generally  stop  at  the  smaller  hotels.  The  Paris- 
ians are  much  more  economical  than  the  English  or 
the  Americans. 

You  pay  at  the  hotels  a  stipulated  price  for  a  room — 
the  charge  being  regulated  by  the  flight  of  stairs  you 
have  to  climb.  You  can  take  your  meals  in  the  hotel, 
restaurant,  or  wherever  it  may  suit  your  convenience. 
I  engaged  a  room,  according  to  the  French  count,  on 
the  second  floor,  but  found  it  located  on  the  fourth. 
I  make  it  a  rule  now  always  to  examine  a  chamber 
before  engaging  it. 

My  travelling  companions  are  both  physicians,  and 
regard  it  as  a  great  privilege  to  visit  the  hospitals  in 
Paris,  as  they  are  the  finest  in  Europe.  I  tried  to  ex- 
cuse myself  from  this  part  of  my  sight  seeing ;  but 
my  companions  said  that  I  would  be  much  interested 
in  the  surgical  operations  we  should  witness.  Our 
first  visit  was  to  one  of  the  oldest  hospitals  in 
France,  established  in  the  year  1012 — Hotel  Dieu  the 
most  ancient  hospital  in  Paris.  We  were  conducted 
through  a  number  of  dark  rooms,  rather  poorly  venti- 
lated, and  having  anything  but  an  inviting  appearance 
to  me,  especially  as  I  observed  them  bringing  in  a 
good  many  sick  persons  on  litters.  The  director  of 
the  hospital  informed  us  that  there  were  several  hun- 
dred cases  of  cholera  in  the  hospital,  and  that  seventy 


148  Europe  art  Correspondence. 

patients  had  died  the  day  previous,  and  that  no  sur- 
gical operations  would  be  performed  in  the  hospital 
for  fear  of  spreading  the  cholera.  This  information 
quite  astonished  me,  as  the  newspapers  had  not  re- 
ported any  deaths  by  cholera.  My  curiosity  was 
satisfied,  and  I  took  French  leave — that  is  to  say, 
without  inquiring  for  any  gratuitous  courtesies.  I 
learn  that  the  newspapers  are  not  permitted  to  report 
the  cholera  deaths. 

I  am  much  better  pleased  with  the  galleries  of  fine 
paintings  than  with  the  hospitals.  Of  the  many 
things  that  my  eyes  have  feasted  upon  during  the 
past  fortnight,  I  have  been  most  pleased  with  the  mag- 
nificent pictures  and  statuary.  I  shall  not  attempt  to 
go  into  a  minute  description  of  what  I  see  in  my 
travels  in  Europe.  I  have  not  the  time,  as  I  am 
occupied  from  morning  often  till  late  at  night  in  visit- 
ing the  various  objects  of  interest.  A  description  of 
the  sights  to  be  seen  in  Paris  alone  would  make  a 
book — nay,  many  books.  I  do  not  propose,  however, 
to  write  one. 

I  shall  leave  here  in  a  few  days  for  the  south  of 
France.  From  thence  I  shall  go  (D.  V.)  to  Switzer- 
land, Italy,  Bavaria,  Wurtemberg,  Austria,  Bohemia, 
Saxony,  Prussia,  Hamburg,  Holland  and  Belgium. 
Returning  to  Paris,  for  a  few  days,  I  will  then  take  a 
peep  at  London,  Manchester,  Liverpool,  Glasgow, 
Edinburgh,  pass  through  the  Green  Isle  to  Queens- 
town,  and  then  sail  for  sweet  home  !  I  shall  keep  my 
eyes,  ears  and  heart  wide  open,  and  endeavor  to  give 
your   readers  a  brief  account  of  what  I   see,  and   of 


European  Correspondence.  149 

how  the  cities,  the  country,  the  people,  the  govern- 
ments, and  things  generally,  look  from  my  point. 
The  armistice  between  Austria  and  Prussia  will  afford 
me  a  fine  opportunity  of  visiting  the  Continent,  and  of 
looking  upon  the  great  armies  of  a  million  and  a  half 
of  men,  as  they  will  remain  in  the  field  until  the 
armistice  expires.  During  the  armistice  neither  army 
can  change  its  position  without  written  permission. 

The  general  impression  is,  that  the  war  in  Germany 
is  ended.  Napoleon  III  is  understood  to  be  very 
unhappy !  '• 

G.  W.  W. 

Paris,  August,   1866. 


LETTER    SEVENTH 


Railroad  Ride  from  Paris  to  Lyons — Manufacture  of 
Wine — Lyons — French  Revolution — Jacobin  Cruelty 
— Lyons  Surpasses  in  Manufacture  of  Silk. 

An  express  train  from  Paris  to  Lyons  will  convey 
you  in  ten  hours  three  hundred  miles  through  a  pic- 
turesque and  interesting  portion  of  France.  On  this 
route  the  soil  is  much  better,  and  in  a  higher  state  of 
cultivation  than  between  Brest  and  Paris.  I  have 
seen  nothing  in  France  to  compare  with  the  barren- 
ness of  poverty-stricken  Brittany.  There  a  traveller 
looks  in  vain  for  neat  and  comfortable  farm-houses. 
The  frequent  wars  in  France  made  it  necessary  in  the 
early  settlement  of  the  country  for  the  inhabitants  to 
live  in  villages. 

The  French  are  famous  for  clinging  to  old  habits. 
The  farmers  live  in  low  houses ;  the  stables,  cow-stalls 
and  pig-pens  all  within  the  same  enclosure.  Instead 
of  a  neat  flower-garden,  a  huge  mass  of  manure  is 
piled  up  in  front  of  the  door.  The  people  generally 
look  cheerless  and  comfortless,  as  though  they  found 
it  hard  work  to  keep  soul  and  body  together.  As 
you  approach  a  town,  avenues  of  majestic  poplars 
line  the  splendidly  macadamized  roads  on  each  side, 
and  you  are  prepared  to  find  stately  mansions.  But 
when  you  look  at  these  trees,  nearly  a  century  old, 
rising  more  than  a  hundred  feet  in  the  air,  and  then 


European  Correspondence.  151 

see  the  little  squalid  houses  ten  to  twenty  feet  high, 
surrounded  by  scrubby  weeping-willows,  you  feel  how 
sudden  is  the  descent  from  the  sublime  to  the  ridicu- 
lous. 

On  our  route  we  passed  through  Burgundy  and 
Champagne,  the  celebrated  wine  districts  of  France. 
Near  Dijon  begins  a  chain  of  hills,  about  a  thousand 
feet  in  height.  These  are  covered  with  vineyards 
which  ascend  in  rows  on  the  sunny  sides  of  the  hills, 
and  spread  along  the  table-land  on  the  summit.  The 
vines  are  planted,  in  trenches  two  feet  apart,  and  are 
trained  on  poles  three  to  four  feet  high.  It  is  said  the 
quality  of  the  grape  improves  with  the  age  of  the 
vine.  The  young  vines  produce  larger  quantities,  but 
of  inferior  quality.  An  acre  of  ground  will  yield 
about  four  hundred  gallons  of  wine.  Potatoes,  clover, 
grass  and  maize  are  interspersed  with  the  vineyards, 
and  the  cherry,  prune,  almond  and  walnut  trees  are 
dotted  over  the  fields. 

For  the  making  of  red  wine,  grapes  are  thrown 
into  troughs  and  are  trodden  by  men  and  women  with 
heavy  wooden  shoes  till  the  grapes  are  broken.  They 
are  then  transferred  to  vats  into  which  the  juice  of 
the  grape,  as  it  ran  from  the  treading  press,  had  been 
conveyed.  Fermentation  takes  place  generally  in  a 
few  days.  As  it  slackens,  the  liquor  begins  to  sub- 
side, and,  finally,  sinks  within  the  top  of  the  vat. 
The  stalks  and  skins  of  the  grapes  float  on  the  top. 
The  wine  is  then  drawn  off  into  large  hogsheads  and 
barrels,  but  is  not  generally  offered  for  sale  until  it  is 
two  or  three  years  old. 


152        t  European  Cofrcspondencc. 

The  champagne  wine  is  made  from  a  small  but 
extremely  sweet  grape.  The  preparation  is  much 
more  difficult  and  expensive  than  that  of  the  ordinary- 
wines.  After  the  champagne  is  bottled,  a  second  fer- 
mentation is  produced  by  putting  into  each  bottle  a 
small  solution  of  sugar  candy  dissolved  in  wine.  The 
bottles  are  closely  watched  and  the  temperature  of  the 
air  carefully  regulated,  often  by  the  use  of  ice,  to  pro- 
mote or  check  fermentation.  It  is  said  that  at  least 
ten  per  cent,  of  the  bottles  burst  from  fermentation. 

The  high  price  of  genuine  champagne  may  be 
accounted  for  by  the  loss  from  breakage,  and  the  cost 
of  manufacture,  and  the  immense  demand  for  it.  You 
seldom  see  the  Frenchman  drinking  champagne.  The 
cheap  claret  and  beer  are  their  constant  drinks.  When 
the  Parisian  would  drink  champagne,  he  goes  without 
the  walls,  and  then  escapes  the  octroi,  or  municipal 
duty,  which  doubles  the  price. 

As  we  proceed  south,  we  pass  through  a  number 
of  fertile  valleys  filled  with  orchards  and  green  pas- 
tures, on  which  fine  herds  of  cattle  and  sheep  are  to 
be  seen,  and  frequently  immense  flocks  of  geese  and 
ducks.  You  seldom  see  chickens  around  the  farm- 
houses ;  but  the  splendid  fat  cow  is  the  most  com- 
fortable looking  animal  in  or  out  of  the  establishment. 

And  now  we  are  in  the  beautiful  City  of  Lyons. 
Like  our  own  City  of  Charleston,  it  nestles  between 
two  rivers,  the  Rhone  and  the  Saone.  Lyons  was 
founded  six  hundred  years  B.  C.  Few  cities  possess 
historical  associations  of  such  deep  and  thrilling  inter- 
est.    Large  silk  manufactories  were  established  here 


European  Correspondence.  153 

as  early  as  1450.  It  was  here  that  in  the  sixteenth 
century  the  Roman  Catholics  and  Protestants  carried 
on  a  war,  which  was  only  exceeded  in  atrocity  by  the 
French  Revolution  of  1793.  At  that  period,  Lyons 
was  the  second  city  in  France  in  size  and  population, 
and  superior  to  Paris  in  commerce  and  manufactures. 
In  1793,  the  Jacobins,  under  Chalier,  made  an  attack 
on  Lyons.  The  merchants  and  manufacturers  united 
with  the  royalists,  and,  after  great  slaughter  on  both 
sides,  were  victorious.  The  notorious  Chalier  was 
captured,  and  the  guillotine,  which  he  had  sent  from 
Paris  to  destroy  his  enemies,  was  used  in  severing  his 
own  head. 

This  only  the  more  excited  the  Jacobins,  who  were 
led  on  by  such  blood-thirsty  men  as  Robespierre, 
Marat,  Collot  d'Herbois,  Fouche,  and  others.  The 
National  Convention  ordered  Kellermann,  commander 
of  the  Jacobins,  to  concentrate  his  forces  around 
Lyons.  The  loyalists,  priests,  and  royal  families  had 
fled  to  Lyons  from  Paris,  and  from  all  quarters.  The 
city  was  under  the  command  of  Precy,  who,  with 
thirty  thousand  citizens  and  refugees,  gallantly  de- 
fended it  for  more  than  two  months.  Lyons  was  not 
surrendered  until  forty  thousand  had  perished  by  shot, 
shell  and  fire.  The  royal  forces  were  reduced  to  a 
few  thousand — their  ammunition  exhausted.  Famine 
and  disease  arrested  the  power  of  all  further  resist- 
ance. Precy,  with  three  thousand  of  his  brave  com- 
rades, made  their  escape  from  the  city,  but  were 
pursued,  and  most  of  them  slain.  The  total  annihila- 
tion of  Lyons  was  decreed  by  the  National  Conven- 
20 


154  European  Correspondence. 

tion,  and  faithfully  carried  out.  It  was  ordered  that 
the  very  name  of  the  city  should  perish,  and  it  should 
henceforth  be  known  as  the  "Free  City."  A  monu- 
ment was  erected  amid  the  ruins,  with  the  inscription, 
"Lyons  took  up  arms  against  liberty.  Lyons  is  no 
more." 

The  Jacobins,  after  the  fall  of  the  city,  to  further 
enrage  the  soldiers,  exhibited  in  the  streets  an  urn 
containing  the  ashes  of  Chalier — "  Chalier,"  exclaimed 
Fouche — "the  blood  of  the  aristocrats  shall  be  the 
incense  we  will  offer  you.  We  have  sworn  the  peo- 
ple shall  be  avenged,  and  all  that  vice  and  crime  have 
erected  shall  be  destroyed.  The  traveller  shall  be- 
hold in  the  ruins  of  this  superb  and  rebellious  city 
naught  save  a  few  huts  inhabited  by  the  friends  of 
equality." 

More  than  twenty  thousand  men  were  employed 
for  weeks  in  destroying  Lyons.  The  prisons,  dun- 
geons, and  cellars  were  filled  to  overflowing  with  the 
citizens  and  the  noble  families  who  had  taken  refuge 
in  the  city.  The  guillotine  was  kept  at  work  night 
and  day,  until  the  public  square  became  so  flooded 
with  human  blood  that  the  Terrorist  chiefs,  fearing  to 
rouse  the  sensibility  of  the  people,  decided  on  a 
wholesale  massacre.  The  prisoners  were  conveyed  to 
the  opposite  shore  of  the  Rhone.  As  they  marched 
through  the  streets  in  chains  to  the  place  of  execution 
they  united  in  singing,  "To  die  for  one's  country  is 
the  happiest  and  most  enviable  fate."  They  were 
placed  in  long  lines  of  a  hundred  each,  and  mowed 
down  with  grape  and  musketry.     Those  who  escaped 


European  Correspondence.  155 

immediate  death  were  charged  upon  by  the  cavalry, 
and  with  the  horses'  feet,  sabre  and  pistol  shots,  were 
slain  to  the  last  victim.  Their  bodies  were  thrown 
into  the  Rhone.  Thus  perished  the  flower  and  youth 
of  Lyons,  and  those  who  had  taken  refuge  from  the 
surrounding  country. 

The  clergy,  nobility,  citizens  and  tradesmen — all 
who  opposed  Jacobinism — shared  a  similar  fate.  The 
reign  of  terror  was  at  its  height.  Reason,  religion 
and  justice  had  fled.  The  teachings  of  the  Jacobins 
were:  that  all  things  were  admissible  to  those  who 
acted  in  the  spirit  of  the  revolution,  (or  the  devil.) 
From  those  who  opposed  them,  life,  property  and 
everything  was  to  be  taken.  The  rich  were  to  be 
stripped  of  their  wealth,  under  the  plea  of  replenish- 
ing the  National  Treasury,  i.  e.  their  own  lustful 
carpet-bags  ?  All  forms  of  worship  were  abolished. 
The  Roman  Catholic  was  as  obnoxious  as  a  Protes- 
tant. The  Republican's  God  was  his  country  ! 
Fouche,  on  entering  the  city,  issued  the  following 
proclamation  : 

"  All  those  who  favored  rebellion  in  any  way,  have 
forfeited  their  heads  to  the  block.  If  you  are  patriots, 
you  will  be  able  to  distinguish  your  friends — you  will 
sequestrate  all  others.  Let  no  consideration  stop  you 
— neither  age,  sex,  or  relationship.  Take  by  force  all 
that  a  citizen  has  that  is  superfluous.  For  any  man 
to  have  more  than  he  requires,  is  an  abuse — extirpate 
all  forms  of  worship — elevate  the  temple  of  reason — 
aid  us  in  striking  these  great  blows,  or  we  shall  our- 
selves strike  you." 


156  European  Correspondence. 

What  a  pity  Brownlow  and  Butler,  and  too  many  of 
their  kidney,  were  not  born  in  France,  instead  of 
America.  They  are  as  full  of  the  Jacobin  spirit  as 
Robespierre  or  Fouche.  There  are  men  now  living 
in  Lyons  who  witnessed  the  horrid  massacre  of  1793. 
They  have  seen  the  beautiful  city  which  was  levelled 
to  the  ground  and  the  ploughshare  ordered  to  pass 
over  its  edifices,  spring  again  into  life  and  prosperity. 
So  may  it  be  with  the  desolated  cities  of  our  own 
dear  South. 

Lyons  has  now  a  population  of  three  hundred 
thousand,  and  is  one  of  the  most  important  commer- 
cial and  manufacturing  cities  of  France.  There  are 
eight  thousand  establishments  for  the  manufacture  of 
silk,  employing  thirty  thousand  looms.  In  the  manu- 
facture of  silk,  Lyons  surpasses  every  city  in  Europe. 
The  weavers  are  a  boisterous  set.  In  1834  there  was 
a  revolt  among  them,  and  the  mob  held  the  city 
for  several  days.  They  were  put  down  by  the  mili- 
tary, but  not  until  several  thousands  were  killed.  It 
was  found  for  a  long  time  necessary  to  keep  a  stand- 
ing army  in  Lyons  of  thirty  thousand  men,  to 
preserve  order.  A  large  number  of  the  male  operatives 
have  gone  into  the  army,  and  the  women  have  taken 
their  places  at  the  loom,  and  are  not  so  difficult  to 
manage.  A  commercial  tribunal  has  been  established, 
composed  half  of  masters  and  half  of  workmen,  to 
settle  disputes  respecting  wages.  This  council  has 
been  found  to  work  well. 

From  the  observatory  you  have  a  magnificent  view 
of  the  city  and  surrounding  country.     I  was  told  we 


European  Correspondence.  157 

could  see  Mt.  Blanc.  There  was,  however,  too  much 
smoke  arising  from  the  factory  chimneys  to  see  a 
hundred  miles  in  the  distance.  In  Lyons  I  hear  the 
familiar  buzz  of  mosquitoes  and  feel  their  pointed 
attentions.  I  am  thus  keenly  reminded  of  certain 
precincts  of  my  own  sunny  home. 

G.  W.  W. 
Lyons,   1 866. 


LETTER    EIGHTH 


Lyons  to  Strasburg — Manufactures  in  France— Cathe- 
dral of  Strasburg — Remarkable  Clock — Pates  de  foie 
gras — Mummies  in  Cathedral  of  St.  Thomas. 

From  Lyons  to  Strasburg,  you  pass  through  many 
fertile  valleys,  bounded  by  precipitous  mountains  of 
considerable  height.  At  Millhouse,  I  stopped  a  few 
hours  to  look  through  that  interesting  manufacturing 
city  of  sixty  thousand  inhabitants.  Here  I  find  large 
warehouses  filled  with  American  cotton.  Owing  to 
the  ragged  and  soiled  appearance  of  the  bales,  they 
looked  as  if  they  had  run  the  blockade.  I  doubt  not 
some  of  it  was  hidden  away  in  the  swamps  of  Carolina 
and    Georgia  to  escape  the  torch  of  Sherman's   army. 

Millhouse  is  one  of  the  greatest  manufacturing 
cities  in  France.  The  mills  are  turned  mainly  by 
water  conveyed  through  canals  from  the  River  111, 
which  flows  in  the  suburbs  of  the  city.     The  opera- 


158  European  Correspondence. 

tives  do  not  live  in  houses  near  the  factories,  as  with 
us,  but  many  of  them  come  from  small  villages  for 
miles  around,  bringing  with  them  their  scanty  meals. 
The  most  of  the  mills  are  employed  in  the  manufac- 
ture of  cotton  prints  and  muslins.  It  is  said  that  the 
quantity  of  prints  manufactured  here  exceeds  that  of 
any  other  city  in  the  world.  The  goods  are  of  a  very 
superior  quality,  and  have  a  fine  reputation  in  Paris 
and  other  large  cities.  There  are  a  number  of  mills 
for  the  spinning  of  cotton,  but  in  this  article  they  find 
it  difficult  to  compete  with  the  English  manufactories. 
Here  is  a  manufacturing  town  that  labors  under  the 
great  disadvantage  of  having  to  transport  the  raw  cot- 
ton from  America,  three  thousand  miles  by  water,  and 
five  hundred  miles  through  France  by  rail,  with  the 
further  disadvantages  of  a  great  scarcity  of  coal  and 
wood.  Our  manufacturers  have  the  raw  material  at 
their  very  door — water,  coal,  and  wood  in  abundance, 
provisions  cheap — and  yet  the  cry  is,  protection  !  pro- 
tection !  The  time  will  come  when  the  Southern 
States  will  become  the  great  manufacturing  districts 
of  the  universe — cheap  labor  will  find  its  way  South 
from  the  over-crowded  States  of  the  Old  World. 
What  we  want  now  is  a  united  and  stable  govern- 
ment— a  government  that  will  protect  life,  liberty  and 
property.  It  matters  not  so  much  whether  we  have  a 
King  or  a  Democratic  President,  so  that  we  have  wise 
rulers.  Capital  will  go  where  it  is  protected  and 
yields  the  largest  return.  Scarcely  a  generation  has 
passed  away  since  the  first  bale  of  cotton  was  shipped 
from   America  to   England.      A   hundred  years   will 


European  Correspondence.  159 

work  wonderful  changes  in  our  great  republic.  The 
North  American  States  will  drain  Europe  and  Asia, 
not  only  of  their  surplus  population,  but  of  the  vast 
wealth  which  has  been  for  so  many  ages  accumulated 
there. 

We  are  now  at  Strasburg.  This  was  formerly  a 
German  free  independent  city.  Louis  the  XIV  seized 
it  in  time  of  peace  and  annexed  it  to  France ;  but  this 
unwarrantable  act  did  not  make  Frenchmen  of  the 
people  of  Strasburg.  They  look  German  and  generally 
speak  the  Ge'rman  language  thoroughly.  French  is 
taught  in  the  schools. 

The  greatest  attraction  in  Strasburg  is  the  cele- 
brated cathedral  with  its  lofty  spire,  on  which  busy 
mechanics  have  been  at  work  for  six  hundred  years, 
and  have  not  yet  reached  the  height  of  the  ambitious 
architect.  The  cathedral  is  one  of  the  finest  Gothic 
edifices  in  Europe.  Its  spire  is  the  highest  in  the 
world.  It  is  thirty  feet  higher  than  the  pyramids  of 
Egypt,  and  one  hundred  and  thirty  feet  higher  than 
St.  Paul's,  London.  This  is  one  of  the  church  steeples 
I  did  not  have  the  courage  to  climb,  as  I  was  informed 
people  occasionally  dropped  through  the  open  work, 
falling  a  distance  of  some  five  hundred  feet.  The 
bishops  have  found  it  necessary  to  issue  many  indul- 
gences to  procure  money  to  build  the  "  Notre  Dame" 
or  Cathedral  of  Strasburg.  The  church  is  decorated 
with  some  fine  statues  and  numerous  paintings.  Its 
extreme  height  has  made  it  a  mark  for  the  lightning, 
and  it  has  been  struck  more  than  a  dozen  times.  In 
1654,  the  spire  was  entirely  demolished  by  lightning, 


160  European  Correspondence. 

but  was  soon  restored.  In  1728,  an  earthquake  came 
near  shaking  it  to  the  ground.  Its  stained  windows 
are  beautiful.  One  of  them  is  unusually  large,  being 
fifty  feet  in  diameter.  In  1793,  a  year  long  to  be  re- 
membered throughout  France,  the  cathedral  fell  into 
the  hands  of  the  Jacobins.  They  caused  several  hun- 
dred statues  of  kings  and  saints  to  be  cast  into  the 
streets  and  river,  and  converted  the  church  into  an 
arsenal  and  commissary  store.  The  cut  of  the  Jacobin 
sabre  is  to  be  seen  on  many  statues,  paintings  and 
church  altars,  not  only  in  Strasburg,  but  in  Paris  and 
other  cities. 

In  the  cathedral  is  an  astronomical  clock  almost  as 
celebrated  as  the  tall  spire.  Three  German  professors 
spent  a  lifetime  in  trying  to  perfect  it,  but  did  not 
complete  their  work.  It  is  called  "  the  clock  of  the 
three  sages."  This  celebrated  clock  had  racked  the 
brains  of  the  German  mathematicians  for  three  hun- 
dred years,  and  was  finally  perfected  by  Schwilgne, 
who  is  now  a  resident  of  Strasburg.  It  shows  the 
hour,  day  of  the  week,  of  the  month,  the  year,  and 
many  church  celebrations.  Precisely  at  twelve  its 
full  mechanism  is  set  in  motion.  At  that  hour  the 
crowd  is  generally  so  great  as  to  require  the  police  to 
preserve  order.  The  figure  of  Death  is  surrounded 
by  four  figures — representing  the  four  ages  of  life. 
Childhood  strikes  the  first  quarter — Youth  the  sec- 
ond— Manhood  the  third,  and  decrepit  Old  Age  the 
fourth ;  (on  the  Continent  the  clock  always  strikes 
each  quarter  of  the  hour.)  As  Death  strikes  the 
hours,  Youth  turns  over  the  hour-glass  that  he  holds 


European  Correspondence.  161 

in  his  hand.  The  twelve  Apostles  then  make  their 
appearance,  bowing  before  Christ,  as  they  pass,  one  at 
a  time.  Our  Saviour  lifts  his  hand  to  bless  them. 
During  that  time  a  cock,  which  is  perched  on  the 
right,  flaps  his  wings  and  crows  three  times.  Mr. 
Schwilgne  has  recently  added  an  ecclesiastic  compute, 
with  all  its  indications,  presenting  also  the  revolu- 
tions and  eclipses  of  the  sun  and  moon  for  an  in- 
definite time.  As  an  intricate  and  fine  piece  of 
workmanship,  the  old  clock  surpasses  anything  I 
have  yet  seer..  Perhaps  to  the  majority  of  Americans 
it  looks  like  an  unnecessary  expenditure  of  time  and 
labor.  It  proves,  however,  what  skill  and  mechanism 
can  produce. 

Strasburg  is  about  as  celebrated  for  its  pates  dc  foie 
gras,  as  for  its  tall  spire  and  wonderful  clock.  The 
pates  are  made  from  the  livers  of  geese,  which  are 
enlarged  to  an  immense  size  by  shutting  the  geese  in 
coops,  too  narrow  to  allow  them  to  turn,  stuffing 
them  three  times  a  day  with  maize  made  into  paste, 
and  steeped  in  sulphur  water  to  increase  the  appetite. 

The  lager  beer  of  Strasburg  is  very  fine.  The  hop 
from  which  it  is  made  grows  to  a  great  height  in  the 
valleys  of  the  111  and  the  Rhine.  Our  guide  pointed 
out  the  place  where  two  thousand  Jews  were  burned 
in  1348.  They  were  accused  of  having  poisoned  the 
wells  and  fountains,  causing  the  plague  which  deso- 
lated the  city  about  that  time.  For  nearly  a  century 
no  Israelite  was  permitted  to  live  or  worship  in  the 
town.  Now  every  one  is  free  to  worship  under  his 
own  vine  and  fig-tree.  Religious  toleration  is  general 
21 


1 62  European  Correspondence. 

throughout  France.  Those  who  choose  to  keep  their 
shops  open  and  work  on  the  Sabbath  can  do  so. 
A  true  Catholic  never  fails  to  go  to  mass  on  Sabbath 
morning.  Searching,  stinging  poverty  makes  it  nec- 
essary for  the  poor  to  labor  on  the  seventh  day  of 
the  week.  With  us  we  make  a  great  show  in  the 
observance  of  the  Sabbath,  by  requiring  the  stores 
and  places  of  business  to  be  closed.  A  conscientious 
Jew,  who  shuts  his  shop  on  his  Sabbath,  is  also  re- 
quired to  close  on  the  Christian  Sabbath,  while  the 
mammoth  railroads  and  steamships,  employing  thou- 
sands of  men  and  women,  are  permitted  to  run  extra 
trains  on  Sunday.  This  looks  to  me  like  straining  at 
a  gnat  and  swallowing  a  camel.  Perhaps  the  public 
authorities  are  of  the  opinion  that. corporations  have 
no  souls  to  be  saved  or  punished. 

Strasburg  is  regarded  as  one  of  the  strongest  forti- 
fied cities  in  France.  The  arsenal  contains  one  hun- 
dred and  seventy-five  thousand  stand  of  arms  and 
one  thousand  cannon.  There  is  an  ordnance  foundery 
here,  and  one  of  the  largest  depots  of  artillery  to  be 
found  in  France.  The  country  around  the  city, 
between  the  Rhine  and  the  111,  can  be  laid  under 
water — thus  rendering  Strasburg  almost  unapproach- 
able by  an  army.  Louis  Napoleon  made  an  unsuc- 
cessful effort  to  seize  Strasburg  in  1836.  The  River 
111  runs  through  it,  forming  canals  over  which  there 
are  numerous  bridges  to  connect  to  different  quarters 
of  the  city.  It  is  a  place  of  considerable  commerce, 
and  has  numerous  manufactories  of  cloth,  linen,  car- 
pets, tobacco,  beer  and  ale.     It  is  connected  with  the 


European  Correspondence.  163 

Mediterranean  and  the  Atlantic,  by  canals,  and  with 
the  North  Sea  by  the  Rhine.  The  city  is  surrounded 
by  a  strong  wall.  At  10  o'clock  the  gates  are  closed, 
after  which  neither  ingress  or  egress  is  allowed. 

We  visited  the  Cathedral  of  St.  Thomas  (Protes- 
tant) to  see  the  monument  of  the  famous  Marshal  Saxe, 
erected  to  his  memory  by  Louis  XV.  It  represents 
the  Marshal  descending  to  the  grave,  while  France, 
personified  in  a  female  figure,  is  endeavoring  to  detain 
him,  and  at  the  same  time  to  stay  the  threatening 
advance  of  Death.  In  this  church  are  deposited  in 
metallic  coffins,  covered  with  glass,  two  bodies  said 
to  be  those  of  a  count  and  his  daughter.  It  is  a 
disgrace  to  humanity  to  exhibit  to  strangers  such 
disgusting  spectacles.  When  I  was  a  boy,  in  the 
mountains  of  Georgia,  I  rode  twelve  miles,  on  a  cold 
December  day,  to  see  a  man  hung  up  by  the  neck 
until  he  was  dead,  dead,  dead !  From  that  time  to 
this  I  have  been  haunted  by  the  remembrance  of  that 
poor  fellow.  I  presume  I  shall  be  haunted  the  rest 
of  my  life  by  the  horrid  Strasburg  mummies. 

G.  W.  W. 

Strasburg,  August,  1866. 


LETTER    NINTH. 


Switzerland — Grand  Scenery — Bath  of  Plcffcrs — Fatal 
Accident  to  four  Ladies — Coirc — Crossing  the  Alps 
over  a  road  hewn  out  by  First  Napoleon — Gorge  of 
Via  Mala,  Italy — Lake  Como. 

In  extent  of  territory  Switzerland  is  about  as  large 
as  the  State  of  South  Carolina,  and  is  the  oldest  liv- 
ing republic  in  the  world.  Surrounded  by  kings  and 
emperors  on  all  sides,  it  is  wonderful  how  she  has 
been  able  to  maintain  her  republican  form  of  govern- 
ment. The  framers  of  the  American  Constitution 
must  have  copied  extensively  from  that  of  Switzer- 
land ;  in  many  respects  the  laws,  customs,  and  usages 
of  the  two  republics  are  the  same. 

The  people  of  Switzerland  are  hardy,  robust,  indus- 
trious and  economical.  The  women,  as  in  France, 
work  in  the  fields,  artd  make  themselves  useful  as 
well  as  ornamental.  The  peasants  are  more  comforta- 
ble and  look  happier  than  the  same  class  in  France. 
They  retain  their  ancient  manner  of  dress,  and  live 
upon  oat-bread,  milk  and  cheese.  If  a  French  peas- 
ant visits  Paris  a  few  times  she  doffs  her  old  costume, 
and  is  next  seen,  especially  on  holy-days,  in  the  gay- 
est attire.  The  plain  white  handkerchief  is  supplanted 
by  a  small  cap  worn  on  the  back  of  the  head,  covered 
with  trinkets  and  brass  embroidery,  and  a  boddice 
decorated  with  gay  ribbons. 


European  Correspondence.  165 

The  houses  in  Switzerland,  although  generally 
small,  look  clean,  and  wear  an  air  of  freshness. 

I  had  heard  much  of  Switzerland,  and  was  prepared 
to  find  charming  lakes,  lovely  valleys,  and  majestic 
mountains,  but  the  half  had  not  been  told.  No  coun- 
try of  the  same  extent  in  the  world  presents  such  a 
diversity  of  appearance  and  climate.  You  look  at 
the  long  range  of  Alps,  with  frightful  precipices  cov- 
ered with  perpetual  snow,  and  hundreds  of  glaciers 
resembling  so  many  seas  of  glittering  ice,  and  at  the 
lower  range  of  mountains  green  with  forests  of  fir, 
vines,  flowers  and  grass,  on  which  herds  of  cattle, 
sheep  and  goats  are  to  be  seen  grazing,  watched  by 
the  lonely  shepherd  boy  and  his  faithful  dog.  Turn 
your  eyes  and  behold  the  verdant  valleys,  as  they 
nestle  between  the  mountains  with  their  crystal  im- 
petuous iced  streams,  as  they  come  falling  and  dash- 
ing thousands  of  feet  over  precipices  and  rocks  from 
the  snowy  regions ;  and  there  you  see  the  charming 
lakes  covered  with  steamers,  conveying  the  delighted 
traveller,  and  rich  manufactures  of  the  beautiful  cities 
that  line  their  borders.  All  these  sights,  however 
varied,  are  to  be  seen  in  the  travel  of  a  few  days. 

I  spent  four  days  in  Switzerland,  and  thought  I 
had  seen  enough  of  its  beauties,  and  was  en  route 
for  Austria,  when  at  the  Falls  of  the  Rhine  near 
Schaff  hausen — which  an  English  writer  compares  to 
Niagara,  and  which  are  about  as  far  short  of  the  Falls 
of  Niagara  as  Tom  Thumb  is  of  the  Russian  giant — 
I  accidentally  met  with  Judge  Aldis,  of  Vermont,  and 
his   good   wife,  who   were   on   their  way   to   Pleffers, 


1 66  European  Correspondence. 

which  they  described  as  the  most  remarkable  spot  in 
Switzerland. 

I  decided  to  accompany  them.  We  sailed  through 
the  Lake  of  Constance  to  Rorschalk.  The  Lake  of 
Constance  is  tame  compared  with  other  Swiss  lakes. 
Its  peculiarity  is  that  it  is  bordered  by  five  different 
States.  In  a  sail  of  as  many  hours,  your  baggage  is 
examined  by  the  customhouse  officers  of  Switzerland, 
Baden,  Wurtemberg,  Bavaria  and  Austria.  From 
Rorschalk  we  travelled  by  rail,  arriving  at  Ragatz 
about  9  o'clock,  P.  M.  The  hotels  were  crowded  and 
we  found  difficulty  in  getting  accommodations.  We 
finally  obtained  comfortable  quarters  at  Hotel  Tamina, 
where  we  met  a  party  who  gave  such  glowing  de- 
scriptions of  the  Pass  of  the  Splugen  over  the  Alps, 
that  we  decided  to  go  there  also — thus  taking  me  still 
farther  out  of  my  route  in  the  direction  of  Italy. 

We  arranged  to  be  up  at  5  o'clock  next  morning 
and  start  for  the  Bath  of  Pleffers,  two  and  a  half  miles 
distant.  We  were  nearly  an  hour  in  ascending  the 
steep  mountain  which  afforded  the  wildest  scenery — 
arriving  at  the  baths  a  little  after  sunrise.  There  are 
two  large  buildings  connected  by  a  chapel  a  short 
distance  above  the  roaring  Tamina.  The  narrow  road 
leading  to  the  hot  springs  is  grand  beyond  anything 
I  have  seen.  You  pass  through  a  mountain  gorge  a 
quarter  of  a  mile  long,  too  narrow  to  admit  the  rays 
of  the  sun.  Only  a  small  skirt  of  the  sky  is  to  be 
seen,  and  in  many  places  the  mountain  closes  over 
your  head  entirely.  I  could  but  think  of  the  possi- 
bility of  a  land-slide,  which  frequently  occurs  in  these 


European  Correspondence.  167 

ravines,  in  which  event  we  should  be  shut  out  from 
the  world  quite  too  long  for  our  comfort.  At  the 
extremity  of  the  narrow  bridge  you  enter  a  tunnel 
dark  as  a  dungeon,  which  leads  you  to  the  hot  springs. 
The  temperature  is  one  hundred  and  twenty  Fahren- 
heit. In  this  smoking,  hot,  sulphurous  cavern,  you 
feel  as  if  you  were  not  far  removed  from  the  gulf  of 
the  region  that  burns  with  fire  and  brimstone. 

The  springs  are  celebrated  for  their  medicinal  qual- 
ities, and  visitors  are  attracted  here  from  all  quarters. 
Formerly  patients  were  let  down  from  the  cliffs  of  the 
mountain  by  ropes  into  the  baths.  Living  in  them 
night  and  day,  they  required  neither  fire  nor  blankets 
to  keep  them  warm.  The  road  leading  to  the  baths 
is  a  very  dangerous  one.  Only  a  few  days  since,  as 
four  English  lady  travellers  were  descending  the 
mountains,  their  horses  became  frightened  and  dashed 
over  the  steep  precipice,  dragging  the  unfortunate 
ladies  with  them.  They  were  instantly  killed  or 
washed  over  the  Falls  of  Tamina  and  drowned,  the 
driver  escaping.  Three  of  the  bodies  were  found  and 
buried  at  Ragatz,  near  the  monument  of  the  German 
philosopher,  Schelling.  The  British  chaplain  had 
great  difficulty  in  getting  permission  to  perform  the 
ceremony  according  to  the  ritual .  of  the  Church  of 
England.  The  Roman  Catholic  authorities  granted  it 
on  condition  that  the  cross  should  be  carried  before 
the  corpses. 

It  was  said  the  government  would  take  immediate 
measures  to  remedy  the  unguarded  state  of  the  road, 
but  nothing  has  been  done.     You    wind   around   the 


1 68  European  Correspondence. 

mountains  over  deep  precipices  without  the  slightest 
protection.  The  wonder  is  that  more  accidents  do 
not  occur.  Our  driver  dashed  down  the  mountain  as 
though  we  were  in  the  most  secure  road.  I  did  not 
feel  at  all  comfortable  until  we  reached  the  plain. 

From  Ragatz  we  went  by  rail  to  Coire,  the  termi- 
nus of  the  railways  leading  into  Italy.  Coire  is  an 
old  Roman  town  of  six  thousand  inhabitants.  The 
bishop's  palace  and  the  quarters  occupied  by  the 
Roman  Catholics  are  walled  around  and  closed  by 
gates,  it  is  said  to  keep  out  Protestants.  In  most  of 
the  old  palaces  and  cathedrals  on  the  Continent  you 
are  shown  pieces  of  the  original  cross  (?)  on  which  our 
Saviour  was  crucified.  I  suppose  those  who  have 
charge  of  these  precious  relics  have  told  the  story  so 
often  that  they  now  really  believe  it. 

In  1799  a  great  battle  was  fought  at  Coire  between 
the  French  and  the  Austrians.  The  Austrian  army 
was  surprised  by  the  rapid  movements  of  the  French 
and  was  defeated.  Young  Napoleon  commanded  the 
French ;  his  ambition  led  him  across  the  Alps  into 
Italy ;  but  there  being  no  roads  at  that  time  over 
which  he  could  pass,  he  put  thirty  thousand  soldiers 
at  work,  and,  in  a  few  months,  was  able  to  take  his 
triumphant  army  across  the  Alps  into  Italy. 

At  Coire  we  hired  a  coach  drawn  by  four  horses 
to  carry  us  to  the  Pass  of  the  Splugen.  The  verdant 
valleys  abound  in  fine  scenery,  and  are  covered  with 
good  pastures,  orchards,  and  moderately  comfortable 
farm  houses.  The  high  mountains,  to  the  right  and 
left,  look  like  so  many  huge  banks  of  snow.     In  the 


European  Correspondence.  1 69 

little  village  of  Reichenau  our  guide  pointed  out  the 
cottage  in  which  Louis  Phillippe  (late  King  of  the 
French)  took  refuge  during  the  revolution.  He 
entered  the  town  on  foot  with  a  pack  on  his  back  in 
1793.  Royalty  at  that  period  was  greatly  below  par. 
It  was  temporarily  "played  out"  in  France,  if  not 
elsewhere.  The  young  Frenchman  was  employed  as 
a  teacher  of  French  history  and  mathematics.  While 
residing  here  his  mother  was  banished  from  France 
and  his  father  fell  under  the  Jacobin  guillotine. 

On  the  brew  of  the  green  hills  are  to  be  seen 
numerous  tenantless  castles,  relics  of  glorious  old 
days.  I  visited  a  few  of  them  to  see  the  remains  of 
the  fallen  splendor  of  the  feudal  aristocracy  who 
were  driven  from  the  castles  by  the  peasants  they 
had  so  long  oppressed. 

Through  this  portion  of  Switzerland  you  have  a 
mixed  population  of  Germans,  Italians  and  French, 
speaking  as  many  languages  as  there  are  nations. 
German  is  taught  in  the  schools.  We  arrive  at  Zillis, 
where  we  get  dinner  and  change  our  jaded  horses  for 
four  mountain  ponies,  and  also  change  our  coach  for 
one  suited  for  crossing  the  Alps.  The  valley  of  the 
Rhine  is  closed  by  the  mountains,  and  we  now  com- 
mence our  assent  over  the  Alps  through  the  gorge  of 
Via  Mala.  Language  fails  to  describe  the  awful 
scenery  met  with  on  all  sides.  Just  imagine  your- 
self in  a  narrow  road  hewn  out  of  the  mountain  sides 
— you  look  upward  at  the  almost  perpendicular  rocks 
and  cliffs  hanging  over  your  head,  three  thousand  feet 
high,  and  beneath  you  into  a  chasm  one  thousand  feet 
22 


I  jo  European   Conrspondcnce. 

deep,  so  narrow  on  each  side  as  to  be  spanned  by  a 
suspension  bridge,  which  is  hung  from  mountain  to 
mountain  like  a  spider's  web,  five  hundred  feet  high, 
over  the  rushing,  roaring  Rhine;  the  river  being  fre- 
quently lost  to  sight  in  the  depth  of  the  chasm  beneath. 
Before  reaching  the  summit  we  cross  four  suspension 
Bridges.  This  road  seemingly  so  perilous,  is  yet 
more  secure  than  that  of  Pleffers. 

The  scenery  descending  into  Italy  is  almost  as  wild 
and  grand  as  through  Via  Mala.  You  pass  water- 
falls several  hundred  feet  high,  and  through  narrow 
fertile  valleys  until  you  reach  Lake  Como,  which  is 
said  to  be  one  of  the  most  charming  lakes  in  Italy. 

As  I  travel  through  this  part  of  the  world — old 
they  call  it,  but  all  new  to  me — with  my  eyes,  ears 
and  heart  open  all  the  time,  looking  at  its  magnificent 
scenery,  its  long  range  of  lofty  mountains,  its  old 
quaint  houses,  its  kingly  mansions,  its  peasants  in  their 
simple  costume,  and  its  princes  clothed  in  their  rich 
robes;  milch  cows  driven  in  carts  by  Swiss  and 
Italian  dames,  with  a  few  bushels  of  oats  to  be  ground 
into  meal  to  feed  the  hungry  children  of  their  mother's 
numerous  household;  at  the  cataracts  as  they  come 
dashing  down  the  rugged  mountains;  the  green 
fertile  valleys  filled  with  gentle  lakes,  flowers,  fruits 
and  flocks;  at  the  faithful  shepherd  dog  as  he  keeps 
the  old  widow's  goat  (which  to  her  is  milk  and  bread) 
on  her  plantation  of  a  hundred  square  feet — all  these 
make  pictures  which  are  indelibly  impressed  on  my 
heart — pictures  stored  away  in  memory  to  be  called 
up  when  I  shall  have  grown  weary,  or  when  misfor- 


European  Correspondence.  171 

tune  or  cruel  war  takes  from  me  the  means  of  travel. 
Here  I  have  locked  up  securely  in  my  bosom  a  rich 
album,  filled  with  pictures  more  beautiful  than 
Raphael's  or  Rubens's,  because  they  are  the  work 
of  the  great  and  sovereign  Master  Architect. 

G.  W.  W. 


LETTER    TENTH. 


Basle — Geneva — John  Calvin — Arrival  at  Munich — 
Stopping  by  Mistake  with  the  King — Fine  Accom- 
modations— Artists  Encouraged  in  Munich — Royal 
Bronze  Foundery — Monument  of  Son  of  Josephine  in 
Church  of  St.  Michaels. 

Basle  which  is  within  a  short  distance  of  the  French 
and  German  lines,  was  the  first  city  I  entered  in 
Switzerland.  In  wealth  and  population  it  ranks  next 
to  Geneva.  The  Rhine  divides  the  city,  but  it  is 
united  by  a  fine  bridge  and  small  ferry  boats. 

Basle  has  several  cotton  and  paper  mills,  and  ribbon, 
muslin  and  other  manufactories.  It  carries  on  consid- 
erable trade,  and  does  a  large  banking  business. 
A  few  hours  run  by  rail  and  by  steamer  on  the  lake, 
brings  us  to  the  pretty  City  of  Geneva,  on  the  Rhone, 
which  has  a  population  of  fifty  thousand.  Geneva  is 
the  largest  city  in  Switzerland,  and  the  great  thorough- 
fare for  travellers  from  Paris  to  Italy.  Its  delightful 
climate  and  good  society  attracts  foreigners.     Geneva 


\J2  European  Correspondence. 

has  the  largest  foreign  population  of  any  city  in 
Switzerland.  It  was  the  home  of  the  celebrated  John 
Calvin,  whose  religious  doctrines  have  found  their 
way  to  all  parts  of  Christendom.  Calvin  was  elevated 
from  an  itinerant  preacher  to  Dictator  of  the  Republic, 
and  it  is  said  he  ruled  the  Democracy  with  an  iron 
rod.  Those  who  entertained  and  preached  anti-Calvin- 
istic  doctrines,  were  punished  in  the  most  cruel  and 
summary  manner. 

During  the  French  revolution  the  city  and  territory 
of  Geneva  fell  into  the  hands  of  the  French,  and  was 
made  a  department  of  France  under  the  name  of 
Leman.  After  the  expulsion  of  the  French  in  1814, 
it  was  annexed  to  Switzerland.  Geneva  is  celebrated 
for  the  manufacture  of  watches  and  jewelry.  There 
are  made  here  more  than  one  hundred  thousand 
watches  per  annum. 

The  Lake  of  Geneva  is  the  largest  in  Switzerland, 
and  possesses  some  fine  scenery,  but  not  equal  to  that 
of  Lucerne  and  Brienz.  These  lakes  are  small,  but 
their  surroundings  are  charming.  Interlaken  is  the 
Saratoga  of  Switzerland.  Here  you  meet  the  gay  and 
fashionable  from  all  quarters. 

I  must  bid  adieu  to  Switzerland  and  its  beauties, 
and  pay  my  respects  to  the  German  Fatherland.  On 
my  way  to  Munich,.  I  inquired  of  a  gentleman  for  the 
best  hotel  in  Munich,  and  was  told  the  Hotel  of  the 
Four  Seasons  was  the  finest  in  Germany — "equal  to 
a  palace."  I  arrived  about  9  o'clock  at  night;  was 
tired  and  had  fallen  asleep.  The  conductor  awoke  me 
for  the  ticket.     I  jumped  into  a  carriage,  with  my  eyes 


European  Correspondence.  173 

scarcely  open,  and  requested  the  coachman  to  drive 
me  to  the  Hotel  of  the  Four  Kings.  "Yah!  Yah!" 
he  replied,  and  drove  me  through  long  winding  streets, 
finally  stopping  at  what  I  supposed  to  be  the  hotel. 
I  passed  the  Bavarian  soldiers  who  were  marching  in 
front  of  the  door,  rung  the  bell,  and  out  stepped  two 
porters  in  livery.  They  ushered  me  into  a  large  room 
filled  with  pictures,  portraits,  and  fine  furniture.  I 
thought  it  was  rather  a  queer  looking  hotel,  but  quite 
coming  up  to  my  friend's  description,  being  equal  to 
a  palace.  I  ordered  supper,  and  told  them  to  be  in  a 
hurry,  as  I  had  eaten  nothing  since  breakfast.  I  was 
leisurely  taking  my  tea,  when  a  gentleman  entered 
the  room  and  apologized  in  broken  English  for  the 
absence  of  the  King!  said  he  was  on  a  visit  to  the 
mountains  for  a  few  weeks,  but  the  secretary  would 
receive  any  message  or  communication  for  his  majesty. 
I  discovered  that  I  was  in  the  King's  palace  instead 
of  a  hotel,  and  had  to  get  out  of  this  pleasant  little 
difficulty  in  the  best  way  I  could.  I  regretted  the 
absence  of  his  majesty,  pulled  out  my  passport, 
stretched  out  the  American  eagle,  giving  my  papers 
as  much  the  appearance  of  official  documents  as 
possible,  folded  them  with  great  care,  and  requested 
the  porter  to  order  a  carriage  and  I  would  go  to  the 
hotel. 

At  Basle,  Switzerland,  I  had  stopped  at  a  very  fine 
hotel  called  the  Three  Kings.  I  associated  the  two 
hotels,  and  asked  for  the  Four  Kings  instead  of  the 
Four  Seasons — perhaps  a  very  natural  mistake.  On 
the  Continent  the  first-class  hotels  are  generally  finer 


1/4  European  Correspondence. 

and  handsomer  buildings  than  the  palaces.  The 
palaces  and  all  public  buildings  are  also  called  hotels. 
The  carriage  was  announced  as  being  ready,  and  you 
may  imagine  my  surprise  to  find  that  it  was  from  the 
royal  stables.  Coming  as  I  did  from  the  palace,  I 
was  ushered  into  a  large  room,  opening  into  an 
elegant  saloon,  and  was  waited  upon  with  marked 
attention.  I  began  to  feel  the  advantage  of  associating 
with  royalty.  On  arriving  in  a  city  it  is  my  custom 
to  request  the  landlord  to  engage  a  carriage  and 
guide  for  me,  so  as  to  lose  no  time  in  visiting  the 
various  places  of  interest.  My  host,  instead  of 
employing  a  one-horse  cab — such  as  I  generally  use 
when  alone — engaged  a  splendid  carriage  drawn  by 
two  horses,  with  liveried  driver  and  footman,  and 
the  guide  was  also  in  uniform.  I  thought  as  I  had 
started  out  on  a  grand  scale  in  Munich,  I  might  as 
well  go  through  with  it.  I  never  had  so  little  trouble 
in  getting  access  to  the  various  places  I  desired  to 
visit.  I  could  but  laugh  as  I  drove  through  the 
streets  of  Munich  in  such  style,  the  people  staring  at 
me — little  dreaming  they  were  looking  at  a  poor 
subjugated  rebel !  I  was  glad  there  were  no  Americans 
in  Munich.  I  have  not  seen  an  American  or  English 
traveller  in  two  days.  They  have  not  yet  ventured 
into  the  war  territory.  My  aristocratic  equipage  and 
fine  apartments  cost  me  fifteen  dollars  in  gold,  which 
was  quite  cheap,  considering  the  style  in  which  I 
moved.  My  meals  were  served  in  my  room.  I  left 
Munich  as  quickly  as  possible,  quite  satisfied  with 
my  experience  in  high  life. 


European  Correspondence.  175 

When  the  Prussians  came  like  an  avalanche  through 
Hanover  and  Soxony  into  Bavaria — walking  over  the 
Bavarians  as  though  they  were  Mexicans — the  King 
grew  nervous  and  fled  to  the  mountains;  hence  his 
absence  when  I  called  upon  him.  I  had  the  pleasure 
of  seeing  his  pretty  mother,  who,  judging  from  her  pic- 
ture, was  a  beauty  when  young.  She  looked  at  me 
as  though  she  thought  I  was  a  Prussian  after  her  son, 
Maximilian  II.  The  late  King  Louis  is  still  alive,  but 
does  not  reside  in  the  palace.  He  is  a  poet  and  artist, 
and  to  him  the  magnificent  metropolis  of  Bavaria  is 
indebted  mainly  for  its  splendor  and  prosperity.  He 
encouraged  the  fine  arts,  and  collected  galleries  of  the 
finest  paintings  in  Germany.  More  than  a  thousand 
artists  reside  in  Munich.  I  was  shown  by  an  artist 
long  lists  of  paintings  purchased  by  the  Allstons, 
Chisolms,  Horlbecks,  Rutledges,  Pinckneys,  and  other 
South  Carolina  names.  I  saw  many  of  these  pictures 
shortly  after  the  fall  of  Charleston,  carted  in  govern- 
ment wagons  through  the  desolate  streets  of  the  Queen 
City,  destined  for  the  North,  and  transferred  to  gov- 
ernment transports.  On  whose  walls  do  they  now 
hang? 

The  palace  in  Munich  has  a  fine  collection  of  paint- 
ings and  statuary.  One  of  the  paintings  struck  me  as 
typifying  the  king;  the  difference,  however,  is  that 
Joseph  is  represented  as  fleeing  from  a  woman,  when 
the  King  is  only  running  from  the  men. 

I  was  much  interested  in  the  Royal  Bronze  Foundery. 
Most  of  the  statues  erected  in  Germany  of  late  years 
are  cast  here.     In  the  foundery  I  saw  the  statues  of 


176  European  Correspondence. 

Washington,  Patrick  Henry,  Jefferson,  Madison,  Henry- 
Clay,  Thos.  H.  Benton,  Horace  Mann,  and  others. 
Also,  models  of  the  new  Capital  at  Washington,  and 
the  State  House  at  Richmond,  with  its  memorable 
motto,  "  Sic  Semper  Tyrants."  The  sight  of  this 
brought  to  mind  the  crazy  Booth  and  the  late  unfor- 
tunate President  Lincoln. 

The  Bavaria,  which  was  cast  here  in  bronze,  is  a 
female  figure  nearly  one  hundred  feet  in  height.  It 
represents  the  protectress  of  Bavaria,  accompanied 
by  a  lion;  a  stairway  leads  up  into  its  head,  which  is 
large  enough  to  hold  six  persons.  There  are  a  num- 
ber of  fine  churches  and  cathedrals  in  Munich.  The 
"Church  of  our  Lady"  is,  perhaps,  the  handsomest. 
The  son  of  Josephine  and  step-son  of  the  first  Napo- 
leon, Eugene,  Duke  of  Leuchtenburg,  was  buried  in 
the  handsome  church  of  St.  Michaels,  and  a  suitable 
monument  erected  over  his  grave.  He  married  a 
daughter  of  the  King  of  Bavaria. 

I  go  from  Munich  to  Vienna,  and  hope  to  visit  the 
great  battle-field  of  Koniggratz. 

G.  W.  W. 

Munich,  Bavaria,  August,  1866. 


LETTER    ELEVENTH 


Vienna — Disgraceful  Defeat  of  the  Anstrians — Pnissian 
Needle-Gun — Strength  of  the  Austrian  and  Prussian 
Armies. 

All  Europe  is  surprised  at  the  sudden  and  disgrace- 
ful defeat  of  Austria — especially  when  her  numerical 
strength  is  considered,  and  the  character  which  her 
soldiers  have  always  maintained  for  bravery  and  skill 
in  warfare.  Austria  has  a  population  nearly  double 
that  of  Prussia,  and  the  States  which  allied  themselves 
with  her  were  capable  of  furnishing  a  respectable 
army.  Bavaria  alone  can  muster  one  hundred  thou- 
sand brave  soldiers.  Wurtemburg  is  a  State  of  con- 
siderable power.  The  Bohemians  and  Hessians  have 
the  reputation  of  fighting  like  tigers,  and  the  Han- 
overians are  noted  for  their  skill  and  bravery ;  the 
Saxons  also  have  a  high  reputation.  Some  persons 
attribute  the  failure  to  the  terror  of  the  Prussian 
needle-gun,  and  its  superiority  over  the  weapon  used 
by  the  Austrians.  The  odds  were  always  three  or 
four  to  one  against  them,  even  when  their  numbers 
were  equal.  Many  attribute  the  failure  to  a  want  of 
efficient  generals  and  a  more  thorough  organization. 
The  Austrian  army  was  made  up  of  such  a  variety  of 
troops  and  races  of  men,  that  it  often  occurred  that 
soldiers  serving  in  the  same  company  were  unable  to 
understand  each  other's  speech  and  word  of  command. 
23 


178  European  Correspondence. 

So  far  as  I  can  judge,  after  a  free  intercourse  with 
men  and  officers,  whose  States  had  allied  themselves 
with  Austria,  there  is  a  religious  and  political  element 
that  has  had  much  to  do  in  bringing  about  the  failure 
in  the  great  battles  fought  in  Bohemia  the  last  of  June, 
and  the  decisive  battle  of  July  3d,  which  is  compared 
in  Europe  only  to  the  battle  of  Waterloo.  The  Gov- 
ernment of  Austria  is  thoroughly  Roman  Catholic 
and  aristocratic,  while  that  of  Prussia  is  Protestant. 
Besides,  their  ruler,  although  a  king,  was  at  the  head 
of  his  army  with  his  two  sons,  in  the  thickest  of  the 
fight — thus  endearing  himself  and  government  to  the 
people.  The  Protestants  and  Republicans  are  quite 
content  to  be  under  the  great  Protestant  Prussian 
Government.  If  the  people  of  Austria  had  been 
united,  as  were  the  Southern  Confederates,  they  never 
could  have  been  conquered.  The  Prussian  system  of 
making  every  man  in  the  kingdom  a  soldier,  I  may 
say  an  educated  soldier,  gave  them  from  the  beginning 
of  the  war  three  hundred  thousand  men  in  line  of 
battle,  which  were  rapidly  marched  into  Hanover  and 
Saxony,  and  were  followed  in  quick  succession  by 
fresh  battalions,  batteries,  etc.  General  Benedek  pre- 
tended to  have  three  hundred  thousand  or  four  hun- 
dred thousand  men  in  the  field,  when  he  really  did 
not  have  an  army  of  one  hundred  and  fifty  thousand 
efficient  soldiers.  There  is  no  doubt  the  majority  of 
the  people  in  the  States,  adhering  to  Austria,  were 
opposed  to  the  war,  and,  of  course,  the  soldiers  were 
anything  but  united.  Benedek  talked  of  marching 
upon  the  Prussian  capital.     The  first  thing  he  knew 


European  Correspondence.  179 

the  Prussians  were  thundering  at  the  very  gates  of  his 
capital.  The  long  lines  of  entrenchments  around 
Vienna,  show  that  his  soldiers  were  employed  in 
throwing  up  breastworks  to  defend  their  imperial  city, 
instead  of  marching  into  the  heart  of  Prussia. 

In  Bohemia  the  Prussians  united  their  forces ;  and 
although  the  Austrians  fought  with  great  bravery, 
until  some  twenty  thousand  of  their  men  lay  bleeding 
on  the  battle-field,  yet  they  were  overpowered  and 
crushed  by  the  superior  forces  of  the  enemy.  Proud 
Austria  is  humbled  in  the  very  dust — her  prestige  is 
gone,  and  her  bitter  enemy,  Count  Bismark,  glories 
in  her  shame.  The  great  Prussian  Minister  was,  a  few 
months  ago,  the  most  unpopular  man  in  Germany,  but 
success,  with  its  magic  power,  has  placed  him  among 
the  first  men  of  Europe.  In  his  sudden  elevation  he 
even  eclipses  the  renowned  Emperor  of  the  French. 
"Nothing  succeeds  like  success,"  Talleyrand  says. 
Success  makes  friends,  and  Prussia  will  ultimately 
absorb  Germany.  The  majority  of  the  small  States 
will  gladly  take  shelter  under  her  victorious  banner ; 
they  are  heartily  sick  of  the  multitude  of  petty  kings 
and  princes,  who  have  for  so  many  years  ground  them 
to  poverty,  in  keeping  up  their  own  splendor  and 
extravagance.  Of  course  nobility  will  die  hard,  espe- 
cially when  reduced  to  oat  bread  and  straw  beds. 

From  Munich  to  Vienna  you  pass  through  a  beau- 
tiful country.  The  scenery  in  some  of  the  valleys 
and  mountains,  to  one  not  just  from  Switzerland, 
would  be  considered  grand.  Over  a  portion  of  the 
route  through  Bavaria,  a  traveller   is  struck  with  the 


180  European  Correspondence. 

odd  appearance  of  the  tall  white  houses,  filled,  like  a 
pigeon's  nest,  on  every  side  with  diminutive  windows; 
but,  to  an  American,  a  more  novel  sight  is  that  of  a 
Bavarian  belle  ploughing  with  a  milch  cow.  "Brin- 
dle"  supplies  the  family  not  only  with  butter,  milk 
and  cheese,  but  also  with  bread. 

The  cars  were  crowded  with  the  military,  and 
hundreds  of  the  poor  sick  and  wounded  soldiers  were 
trying  to  reach  their  homes  ;  many  of  them  were 
accompanied  by  their  wives  and  parents.  The  cholera 
prevails  throughout  the  camps,  and  many  of  the  poor 
fellows  who  escaped  death  on  the  battle-field,  are  fall- 
ing victims  to  this  terrible  disease. 

Vienna  is  situated  in  the  valley  of  the  Danube, 
about  two  miles  from  the  river,  and  is  one  of  the  finest 
cities  in  Germany,  with  a  population  of  six  hundred 
thousand.  Of  course  I  found  everything  in  the- 
greatest  confusion  here  ;  the  citizens  have  not  recov- 
ered from  their  fright  caused  by  the  unexpected  and 
near  approach  of  the  Prussians,  whose  roaring  cannon 
can  be  heard  without  difficulty  in  the  city.  There  is 
no  material  change  in  the  position  of  the  two  great 
armies  of  a  million  and  a  half  of  men,  since  the  cessa- 
tion of  hostilities.  There  is  no  danger  of  a  renewal 
of  the  conflict  at  this  time.  I  was  told  by  one  in 
authority  that  peace  would  be  declared  in  a  day  or 
two  ;  that  the  terms  had  been  agreed  upon,  and  would 
be  promulgated  very  soon.  Thus  ends  what  the 
French  style  the  great  "seven  days'  war." 

The  hotels  are  crowded  with  sick  and  wounded 
officers.     As  each  officer  is  attended  by  half  a  dozen 


European  Correspondence*  181 

common  soldiers  you  may  judge  of  the  comfort  in  the 
hotels.  I  have  not  seen,  in  a  journey  of  five  hundred 
miles,  an  English  or  American  traveller.  The  railway 
will  be  open  for  civilians  in  a  day  or  two.  The  Aus- 
trian soldiers,  whose  uniform  is  gray,  like  that  of  the 
Confederates,  are  a  splendid  looking  set  of  men.  Of 
course  they  look  and  feel  deeply  humiliated  at  the 
result  of  the  war;  they  seem  calm  and  determined, 
but  are  full  of  wrath  and  indignation.  I  imagine 
under  this  quiet  stream  dark  and  turbid  waters  flow, 
which  will  some  day  be  poured  out  upon  the  proud 
Prussians  like  a  mountain  avalanche. 

The  great  Austrian  Empire,  with  a  splendid  country 
and  forty  millions  of  brave  people,  may  for  the  time 
submit  to  being  ruled  out  of  the  German  Confederacy 
— but  they  will  not  live  long  under  the  disgrace  which 
now  overwhelms  them.  Her  mechanics  are  already 
at  work  on  the  needle-gun,  which  will  be  found  as 
terrible  in  the  hands  of  a  revengeful  Austrian  soldier 
as  in  that  of  a  Prussian.  I  drove  for  miles  through 
the  Austrian  camps,  and  was  struck  with  the  discipline 
and  order  that  prevailed  among  the  men.  I  have  not 
seen  a  drunken  soldier,  and  I  may  add  civilian,  since 
my  arrival  in  Europe.  The  people  all  drink  wine  and 
beer,  but  they  don't  get  drunk.  They  smoke,  smoke, 
smoke ;  but  few  of  them  chew  tobacco — gentlemen 
never.  The  rations  issued  to  the  soldiers  appear  to 
me  to  be  of  inferior  quality  ;  the  dark,  hard  loaf  of 
oat  and  rye  bread  is  loaded  into  the  wagon  like  so 
many  brick,  and  thrown  upon  the  ground — not  even 
protected  from  the  dirt  by  plank. 


1 82  European  Correspondence. 

The  fields  and  gardens  for  miles  around  the  fortifi- 
cations are  uncultivated.  In  a  few  of  the  fields  I 
noticed  that  the  ploughshare  had  just  taken  the  place 
of  the  cannon.  The  long  miles  of  zigzag  trenches  and 
fortifications  proved  to  be  of  about  as  much  use  as 
those  built  around  the  Queen  City  of  the  South — but 
not  defended  quite  as  long.  The  Emperor  and 
Empress  of  Austria,  who,  by  the  way,  are  a  very 
handsome  couple,  reside  in  Vienna.  They  say  the 
Emperor  was  so  shocked  and  surprised  when  he  heard 
of  the  defeat  at  Konigratz  that  he  fainted.  The  peo- 
ple were  very  much  deceived.  The  Austrian  officers 
had  been  sending  accounts  of  great  victories.  Some 
of  the  dispatches  are  quite  amusing.  Benedek  tele- 
graphed the  Emperor  during  the  action  at  Skolitz,  as 
follows  : 

"  Eight  in  the  Morning. — The  action  is  commencing ; 
pray  to  God ! 

Noon. — The  battalions  are  wavering ;  pray  to  God  ! 

Four  in  the  Afternoon. — The  Prussians  are  beaten  ; 
return  thanks  to  God  !  " 

The  royal  palace  is  large,  but  not  an  imposing 
building  in  appearance.  The  interior,  however,  is 
very  grand,  and  decorated  with  splendid  paintings 
and  statues.  The  main  court  was  built  nearly  seven 
hundred  years  since.  I  do  not  think  we  have 
improved  much  in  the  fine  arts  or  in  architecture  since 
that  period.  I  got  a  permit  to  visit  the  apartments  of 
the  imperial  family.  One  of  the  rooms  contains  a 
series  of  nearly  one  hundred  stone  landscapes,  beau- 
tifully decorated   with  various  mosaic  stones,  inlaid, 


European  Correspondence.  183 

which  are  said  to  have  cost  an  immense  sum  of  money. 
In  another  apartment  is  a  rich  cabinet  of  minerals  and 
crown  jewels.  There  is  also  here  one  of  the  largest 
collections  of  coins  and  medals  to  be  found  in  Europe. 
In  walking  through  these  magnificent  courts,  you 
could  not  suppose  they  were  the  apartments  of  an 
almost  bankrupt  court.  As  you  step  out  of  these 
splendid  halls,  with  your  eyes  filled  with  the  glitter 
of  diamonds  and  gorgeous  furniture,  the  first  object 
that  attracts  your  attention  is  a  poor  Austrian  woman 
staggering  under  a  hod,  loaded  to  its  utmost  with 
brick  or  mortar,  which  she  is  carrying  to  a  petticoat 
mason  who  is  engaged  in  rearing  the  magnificent 
range  of  buildings  which  are  in  course  of  erection 
in  Vienna. 

The  women  here  not  only  cultivate  the  soil,  furnish 
soldiers  for  the  army,  but  they  are  converted  into 
master  mechanics.  All  this  is  the  result  of  the  fre- 
quent wars  and  large  standing  armies  this  Old  World 
is  cursed  with.  Ah,  Mother  Eve,  when  you  yielded 
to  the  soft,  beguiling  whispers  of  the  cunning,  insidi- 
ous serpent,  you  little  dreamed  of  the  endless  woes 
and  misery  you  were  entailing  on  you  race.  In  pain 
and  sorrow  you  brought  forth  your  first  born,  only  to 
have  a  brother's  blood  crying  to  God  from  the  ground. 
These  German  hills  and  valleys  are  still  moist  with 
the  gore  of  mingled  blood  from  the  sons  of  a  common 
fatherland;  and  alas!  the  trail  of  the  Old  .Serpent  is  to 
be  seen  in  the  New  World,  and  the  crimson  streams 
which  flowed  from  the  death  wounds  of  myriads  of 
our  countrymen,  are  indelible  stains  on  the  hands  of 


184  European  Correspondence. 

those  who  slew  them,  and  a  reproach  to  civilization, 
humanity,  and  Christianity.  God  forbid  that  such 
scenes  should  ever  be  witnessed  again  in  the  land 
that  claims  to  be  "  the  land  of  the  brave  and  the  home 
of  the  free." 

G.  W.  W. 
Vienna,  Austria,  1866. 


LETTER    TWELFTH 


Visit  to  the  Battle-field  of  Konigratz — Temble  Effects 
of  War  both  in  the  Old  and  Nciv  World — Prague 
filled  with  Soldiers  and  Cholera — Declaration  of 
Peace  between  Prussia  and  Austria. 

Having  received  permission  to  pass  through  the 
Austrian  lines,  I  left  Vienna  on  the  first  train  that  ran 
over  the  newly  repaired  roads,  which  had  been  de- 
stroyed by  the  Austrians  in  their  retreat  from  Bohemia. 
I  was  anxious  to  visit  the  renowned  battle-fields,  and 
to  see  the  great  Austrian  and  Prussian  armies  which 
are  spread  over  the  country  mainly  from  Vienna  to 
Prague. 

An  hour  from  Vienna  by  rail,  and  we  entered  the 
camps  of  the  victorious  Prussians.  After  a  careful 
examination,  I  cannot  discover  much,  if  any,  difference 
between  the  Austrian  and  Prussian  soldiers.  I  imagine 
that  the  latter  are  a  little  taller  and  stand  more  erect ; 
this  slight  difference  may  be  accounted  for  in  the  pres- 
ent position  of  the  two  armies — the    Prussians   are 


European  Correspondence.  185 

flushed  with  victory,  while  the  Austrians  are  crushed 
by  defeat.  If  the  latter  were  placed  in  the  same  cir- 
cumstances, and  dressed  in  blue  instead  of  gray,  I 
doubt  whether  even  a  German  could  perceive  any 
difference.  They  both  are  under  fine  discipline,  march 
with  even  front  and  steady  tramp,  and  are  generally 
large,  fine-looking  men,  with  great  breadth  and  depth 
of  chest ;  the  firm  muscles  in  their  arms  and  chest 
made  me  envious  of  their  superior  physical  develop- 
ment. They  possess  great  strength  and  wonderful 
power  of  endurance.  Their  training  and  their  bracing 
climate  doubtless  have  much  to  do  in  promoting  both. 

The  militia  of  Prussia  are  very  different  looking 
men  when  compared  with  the  same  class  of  soldiers 
in  America.  They  are  called  here  Landwehr  levies, 
and  are  generally  older  and  better  educated  than  the 
regular  soldiers,  and  have  received  three  years'  train- 
ing, and  are  just  such  trustworthy  soldiers  as  a  general 
takes  delight  in  commanding.  The  Prussian  system 
in  organizing  and  training  in  peace  is,  perhaps,  supe- 
rior to  that  of  any  nation  in  Europe  ;  and  while  it 
gives  them  able  and  efficient  men,  always  ready  for 
line  of  battle,  it  obviates  the  necessity  of  keeping  up 
such  large  standing  armies  as  are  to  be  found  in 
France  and  Austria,  and  which  are  such  moths  upon 
the  public  treasury.  I  spent  nearly  two  days  in  the 
camps  and  on  the  battle-fields,  and  saw  quite  enough 
of  soldiers  to  satisfy  me  for  a  twelve-month. 

A  portion  of  the  journey  had  to  be  performed  in 
very  indifferent  carriages,  and  the  accommodations 
were  not  such  as  I  had  been  accustomed  to  in  Munich 
24 


1 86  European  Correspondence. 

and  other  favored  localities.  There  is  much  more 
cholera  in  Bohemia  than  any  place  I  have  yet  visited ; 
the  soldiers  and  people  are  dying  at  a  fearful  rate. 
The  Austrians,  in  their  retreat  after  the  last  great 
battle,  burnt  the  bridges  and  tore  up  the  railways.  I 
saw  hundreds  of  women,  many  of  them  delicate  girls 
of  fifteen  to  eighteen,  working  on  the  railroads  which 
had  been  destroyed  by  the  men.  I  have  come  to  the 
conclusion  that  a  woman  on  the  Continent  is  a  very 
useful  animal,  and  she  is  appreciated  by  the  men  in 
proportion  to  her  physical  endurance.  It  is  evident 
that  the  position  of  the  women  in  Europe,  especially 
on  the  Continent,  is  very  different  from  that  of  the 
American  ladies.  With  us,  we  have  no  women  ;  they 
are  all  ladies ;  and  the  humblest  has  her  eye  on  the 
White  House  at  Washington,  and  stands  a  good 
chance  of  being  the  President's  Queen.  I  think  I  can 
see  why  it  is  that  women  are  appreciated  here,  only 
when  they  want  the  fields  tilled,  the  houses  built,  and 
sons  for  the  army.  But  I  am  now  writing  about  bat- 
tle-fields. At  another  time  I  shall  write  a  chapter  for 
the  benefit  of  the  women  of  Europe,  and  tell  them  of 
the  great  American  Eden,  where  the  women  are 
appreciated  by  the  men  for  their  social  and  intellect- 
ual worth,  and  where  it  is  not  a  misfortune  to  be  born 
a  mother's  daughter  instead  of  a  father's  son.  The 
blackened  chimney  stacks  which  line  the  road  between 
Chlum  and  Konigratz  are  miniature  representatives 
of  Sherman's  desolating  march  from  the  Savannah  to 
the  Congaree  ;  here  the  houses  were  burned  when  the 
two  great  armies  of  nearly  half  a  million  of  men  were 


European  Correspondence.  187 

engaged  in  battle.  In  Carolina  the  work  was  delib- 
erate ;  the  torch  was  applied  when  the  only  weapon's 
of  defence  were  a  widow's  tears,  and  the  shrieks  of 
orphan  children.  But  what  respect  has  the  hyena 
for  tears,  age,  or  sex  ? 

Sherman's  "bummers  "  were  worse  than  the  fiercest 
hyenas  that  roam  in  the  savage  forests  of  Africa. 
They  even  tore  the  dead  from  their  resting  place  in 
search  of  spoils,  desecrating  churches  and  graveyards. 
The  roadside  here  is  lined  with  knapsacks,  tattered 
caps,  belts,  cartridge-boxes,  bayonets  and  sheaths; 
the  poor  fellows  who  so  recently  wore  them  lie 
beneath  the  long  range  of  fresh  mounds  which  line 
the  hills  and  valleys.  Men  and  horses  were  piled  in 
trenches  by  the  thousand,  and  were  imperfectly 
buried.  The  odor  arising  from  them  is  horrid,  and 
beyond  endurance.  No  wonder  that  nearly  every 
house  you  pass  has  been  converted  into  a  hospital, 
with  a  white  flag  hung  over  the  door.  The  houses 
are  filled  with  the  sick  and  wounded  of  both  armies, 
attended  by  the  Austrian  and  Prussian  surgeons. 

If  any  one  has  a  doubt  about  the  utter  depravity  of 
the  human  family,  let  him  visit  a  battle-field,  where 
myriads  of  his  fellow-creatures  have  been  butchered 
by  their  neighbors  and  relatives,  and  thrown  into  long 
trenches,  with  horses  and  mules,  only  a  cross  here 
and  there  to  denote  that  the  bodies  of  those  who 
recently  possessed  immortal  souls  are  mingled  in  this 
mass  of  putrefaction.  The  widow  searches  for  the 
grave  of  her  husband,  the  mother  for  her  only  son, 
and    they  find  the  vultures    preying  upon  their  car- 


1 88  European  Correspondence. 

casses,  and  the  peasants  dressed  in  the  clothes  that 
were  worn  by  the  husband  and  the  son  when  they 
bade  adieu  to  home  never  to  return  again. 

These  are  no  fancy  pictures!  Would  to  God  they 
were.  But  one  need  not  come  to  Europe  to  look 
upon  scenes  like  these.  The  past  five  years'  history 
of  our  own  country  will  furnish  scenes  equally  horrid 
and  revolting.  Soldiers  were  thrown  into  prisons  at 
the  North  to  freeze,  and  into  pens  at  the  South  to 
starve.  When  a  torpedo  would  explode  under  a  ship, 
sending  hundreds  of  men  unprepared  for  eternity  to 
the  bottom  of  the  ocean — when  the  battles  that  sent 
most  souls  to  eternity  were  fought,  these  events  would 
furnish  occasion  for  extra  prayer-meetings  and  Chris- 
tian exultations.  Christian  (?)  ministers  could  see  the 
hand  of  God  in  all  these  things.  The  hand  of  God ! 
Merciful  Father  deliver  us  from  the  teachings  of  such 
men  !  It  is  horrid  butcheries  like  these  that  elevate 
States  into  proud  kingdoms,  and  make  a  Bismark, 
who  was  detested  by  his  own  countrymen,  the  most 
popular  man  in  Europe. 

I  found  the  City  of  Prague,  which  is  the  capital  of 
Bohemia,  full  to  overflowing.  The  Prussian  officers 
occupy  the  hotels  from  cellar  to  garret.  I  was  so 
fortunate,  after  waiting  a  couple  of  hours,  as  to  secure 
lodgings  in  a  bath  room,  sleeping  on  a  Prussian  army 
bed.  I  intimated  to  my  landlord  that  he  must  be 
doing  a  fine  business,  seeing  that  he  had  such  a  full 
house.  He  shrugged  his  shoulders,  shook  his  head, 
and,  glancing  his  eyes  around  to  see  if  any  of  the 
officers  were  near,  cursed  and  abused  the  Prussians  in 


European  Correspondence.  189 

a  shocking  manner.  I  could  excuse  the  poor  fellow 
for  being  angry  when  he  informed  me  that  he  had 
been  boarding  one  hundred  officers  for  more  than  a 
month  without  receiving  one  dollar  of  compensation  ; 
and  what  added  to  his  wrath  was  the  fact  that  the 
officers  made  out  their  own  bill  of  fare,  often  ordering 
articles  that,  in  a  country  overrun  by  war,  it  was 
almost  impossible  to  procure. 

The  cholera  is  epidemic  here,  and  I  am  anxious  to 
leave  for  Dresden,  but  the  military  hold  the  railways. 
I  visited  the  palace,  which  is  now  occupied  by  the 
Prussians  ;  also  the  cathedral,  the  museum,  Loretto 
Chapel,  and  last,  though  not  least,  the  ancient  Jewish 
Synagogue,  which  is  a  thousand  years  old;  it  looks 
antique,  damp  and  dingy  enough  to  have  been  fast- 
ened to  Noah's  Ark.  I  have  not  seen  just  such  a 
place  of  worship  in  Europe.  The  dark,  wet  dungeon 
of  the  synagogue,  among  coffins  and  skeletons,  is  not 
far  short  of  the  Strasburg  mummies.  If  a  man  can 
spend  five  minutes  in  such  a  place  and  not  have  the 
cholera,  I  think  he  is  proof  against  it.  Speaking  of 
cholera,  one  of  our  passengers,  an  Austrian  officer, 
was  attacked  yesterday.  He  was  attended  by  a 
Prussian  surgeon,  who  manifested  as  much  interest, 
and  was  as  attentive  as  if  he  had  been  his  own  brother. 
We  had  to  leave  the  poor  fellow  in  a  small  town ; 
the  doctor  stopping  with  him.  When  the  paroxysm 
would  occur,  he  would  be  drawn  almost  double ;  his 
sunken  eyes  and  pale  cheeks  made  him  look  as  if  he 
were  not  long  for  this  world.  Severe  cases  of  cholera 
often  terminated  fatally  in  a  few  hours.     I  made  an 


190  European  Correspondence. 

effort  to  leave  Prague  for  Dresden  on  the  1  o'clock 
train.  For  the  first  time  the  California  application 
failed.  Just  as  the  agent  had  the  permit  written,  and 
we  were  about  to  exchange  civilities,  a  Prussian 
officer  stepped  in,  and  our  acquaintance  ended.  The 
glad  tidings  that  a  treaty  of  peace  between  Prussia 
and  Austria  was  signed  at  Prague,  have  been  promul- 
gated since  my  arrival  at  Bohemia.  This  news,  which 
is  good  to  all  the  civilized  world,  doubtless  reached 
the  New  World  before  it  was  published  in  Prague. 
"  Peace  and  friendship  shall  prevail  in  future  and 
forever  between  his  Majesty  King  of  Prussia,  and  his 
Majesty  the  Emperor  of  Austria,  their  heirs  and 
successors,  their  States  and  subjects."  Thus  reads 
the  first  article.  For  the  sake  of  humanity  I  hope  it 
may  never  be  violated. 

G.  W.  W. 
Prague,  Bohemia,  1866. 


LETTER     THIRTEENTH 


Detained  in  Prague — Review  of  the  Seven  Days' 
War — Met  Russell,  the  Correspondent  of  the  Londo)i 
Times,  on  the  Battle-field — Arrival  at  Dresden — 
Beautiful  City — Fine  Paintings. 

I  was  detained  longer  in  Prague  than  I  bargained 
for.  Many  travellers  regard  it  one  of  the  handsomest 
cities  in  Germany.  Perhaps  if  I  had  been  comfortably 
situated,  and  there  had  been  less  cholera,  I  should 
have  enjoyed  the  visit  more.  My  guide  was  a  stupid 
fellow;  the  accommodations  miserable;  the  city  smoky 
and  dirty,  the  people  looked  cross,  being  quite  dis- 
pleased with  the  treatment  they  received  at  the  hands 
of  the  Prussians.  In  Germany  very  few  families  have 
what  we  call  in  America,  guest  chambers,  and  they 
are  not  prepared  to  entertain  company  ;  but  that  made 
very  little  difference  with  the  Prussians.  Every  estab- 
lishment was  assessed  ;  the  lady  of  the  mansion  was 
not  consulted  as  to  how  many  soldiers  should  be 
billeted  on  her  premises.  The  officers  looked  at  a 
house  and  quartered  three,  five,  ten  or  more,  accord- 
ing to  the  size  of  the  house.  An  accomplished  and 
finely  educated  lady  told  me  that  she  had  to  go  into 
the  kitchen  and  cook  for  half  a  dozen  soldiers 
for  more  than  a  month.  She  thought  cooking  for 
friends  was  not  a  very  pleasant  occupation,  but  she 
considered  roasting  her  pretty  face  over  a  hot  fire  for 


192  European  Corresponde?ice. 

an  enemy  was  quiet  unendurable.  She  said,  however, 
that  the  soldiers,  almost  without  exception,  conducted 
themselves  with  the  utmost  propriety,  often  assisting 
in  cooking,  and  made  the  situation  of  the  family  in 
which  they  were  billeted  as  comfortable  as  could  be 
expected  under  the  circumstances.  American  fami- 
lies who  were  keeping  house  in  Germany  were  required 
to  take  their  quota  of  soldiers  just  the  same  as  the 
native  citizens. 

The  Landwehr  battalions  (militia)  have  been  march- 
ing out  of  Prague.  In  a  few  days  they  will  be  per- 
mitted to  return  to  their  homes ;  they  are  only  called 
upon  when  their  country  is  engaged  in  war.  The 
more  I  look  on  the  battle-field  of  the  "seven  days' 
war,"  the  more  my  surprise  increases  at  the  sudden 
defeat  of  the  Austrians.  In  Bohemia  they  had  the 
selection  of  their  position,  were  protected  by  fortifi- 
cations and  an  extensive  forest,  behind  which  were 
posted  two  hundred  thousand  brave  and  well  disci- 
plined soldiers.  The  position  of  Chlum  seems  to 
have  been  the  key  coveted  by  the  Prussians,  which 
was  taken  and  lost  by  the  soldiers  under  Crown 
Prince  eight  times  before  they  were  masters  of  it. 
When  this  position  was  secured,  the  Austrians  had 
the  enemy  in  the  rear,  and  they  began  the  retreat  in 
which  they  suffered  so  heavily. 

It  is  said  the  greater  part  of  the  Italian  regiments 
which  defended  Chlum  went  over  to  the  Prussians 
shouting  "viva  Garibaldi."  One  thing  is  yery  certain, 
the  Italians  fought  bravely  or  they  could  not  have 
retaken  a  position  that  had  been  lost  seven  times.     I 


European  Correspondence.  193 

think  they  must  have  gone  over  to  the  Prussians  after 
the  Austrians  began  their  retreat.  In  the  great  battle 
which  ended  the  war,  the  Prussians  had  united  their 
forces  under  Prince  Frederick  Charles  and  Crown 
Prince,  which  gave  them  two  hundred  and  fifty  thou- 
sand men.  They  made  both  a  front  and  flank  attack. 
When  the  Crown  Prince  broke  their  line  at  Chlum 
the  victory  was  won.  The  loss  of  the  Prussians  was 
about  fifteen  thousand,  while  that  of  the  Austrians 
was  forty  thousand.  Eighteen  thousand  of  the  latter 
number,  however,  were  taken  prisoners.  Just  think 
of  thirty-seven  thousand  men,  in  a  battle  of  only  a 
few  hours,  either  killed  or  wounded.  Prussia  has, 
almost  from  the  beginning  of  the  war,  subsisted  her 
army  at  the  expense  of  the  enemy.  She  marched 
her  troops  with  great  rapidity  into  Saxony,  Hanover, 
Hesse,  Bodelen,  Bavaria  and  Wurtemberg.  In  addi- 
tion to  the  heavy  foraging,  Prussia  has  made  a  cash 
levy  on  Austria  and  her  allies,  amounting  to  nearly 
one  hundred  million  of  dollars.  She  also  gets  the 
immense  territories  she  has  annexed,  for  nothing. 
Was  there  ever  so  much  gained  by  any  other  nation 
in  a  "  seven  days'  war  ?"  I  left  Prague  for  Dresden 
in  a  slow  night  train,  but  I  was  glad  to  get  away  even 
in  a  freight  car.  Russell,  of  the  London  Times,  came 
on  the  same  train.  He  had  just  returned  from  the 
battle-field  in  Bohemia,  and  was  not  feeling  very  well ; 
his  courier  bored  me  to  death  with  horrid  cholera 
cases.  According  to  his  account,  we  had  to  leave 
one-half  of  our  passengers  on  account  of  "awful 
attacks  of  cholera." 
25 


194  European  Correspondence. 

I  had  my  eyes  wide  open,  and  saw  only  a  few  cases 
on  our  route  from  Prague  to  Dresden.  Russell  says 
that  had  the  contest  between  the  Prussians  and  Aus- 
trians  continued,  it  is  probable  the  cholera  would  have 
commanded  an  armistice — that  even  now  its  ravages 
are  dreadful.  He  thinks  there  are  at  this  time  fifteen 
thousand  Austrian  prisoners  suffering  from  illness  of 
various  kinds,  and  the  Prussians  in  Bohemia  are  also 
suffering  severely.  If  the  troops  had  been  marched 
in  masses,  during  the  summer  months,  in  the  low 
grounds  around  Vienna,  or  in  Hungary,  the  pestilence 
would  have  been  frightful. 

Russell  says,  that  on  his  route  from  Paroubitz  to 
Prague,  he  sat  on  boxes  marked  "  cholera  cure,"  and 
was  surrounded  with  cholera  patients.  He  regarded 
some  of  the  passengers  a  little  nearer  the  end  of  their 
journey  than  others.  There  are  at  this  time  thirty 
thousand  to  forty  thousand  in  the  Prussian  hospitals 
under  treatment.  Oh,  the  horrors  of  war !  For  every 
soldier  it  strikes  down,  it  matters  not  how  humble  he 
is,  there  is  a  mother,  wife,  sister,  or  child  that  feels 
the  blow.  When  Prince  Frederick  Charles  passed 
over  the  battle-field,  and  saw  the  poor,  wounded  sol- 
diers by  thousands  crawling  to  the  brook  to  drink 
water  and  die,  he  exclaimed,  "What  an  awful  sight! 
how  dreadful  war  is  after  all !"  Yes,  war  is  a  dread- 
ful thing.  Oh,  that  our  country  may  never  again  be 
cursed  with  the  horrors  of  a  civil  or  a  foreign  war ! 

Is  Dresden  one  of  the  sweetest  places  in  the  world, 
or  is  it  the  change  from  the  heart-sickening  scenes  on 
the  Bohemia  battle-fields  ?     I  am  quite  sure  I  never 


European  Correspondence.  195 

enjoyed  a  change  more.  Mr.  Russell's  courier  went 
ahead  of  us  and  engaged  rooms.  It  was,  however, 
quite  unnecessary,  as  we  had  a  splendid  hotel  pretty 
much  to  ourselves.  Thus  far  there  are  very  few 
American  or  English  travellers  in  Germany.  The 
mass  of  the  Prussian  soldiers  were  farther  south.  Mr. 
Russell  spoke  of  his  visit  to  the  South  shortly  after 
the  fall  of  Sumter,  when  the  Confederate  heart  beat 
high  with  the  belief  and  hope  of  the  success  of  the 
cause.  He  made  inquiries  respecting  the  welfare  of 
Petigru,  King,  Gadsden  and  Grayson,  and  seemed  dis- 
tressed when  I  told  him  they  were  all  dead  ! 

Dresden  is  the  capital  of  Saxony,  and  has  a  popu- 
lation of  one  hundred  and  forty  thousand,  mostly 
Protestants,  but  the  reigning  sovereign  is  Roman 
Catholic.  Few  cities  in  the  world  are  as  attractive  as 
this  beautiful  capital.  Here  you  find  a  genial,  bracing 
climate,  good  society,  the  finest  educational  advan- 
tages, and  sufficient  objects  to  gratify  the  taste  and 
curiosity  of  the  most  fastidious  traveller.  I  was  bet- 
ter pleased  with  the  Dresden  picture  galleries  than 
any  I  have  seen  on  the  Continent.  Of  course  they 
are  not  in  extent  equal  to  the  Louvre  at  Paris,  but 
according  to  my  taste  the  selection  is  better.  Here 
you  find  some  of  Raphael's  best ;  his  Madonna  is  the 
finest  painting  I  ever  beheld,  and  is  the  gem  of  the 
gallery.  It  is  thought  to  be  one  of  his  best,  and 
executed  in  his  most  masterly  style.  I  also  find  in 
Dresden  many  paintings  from  the  hand  of  my  favorite 
artist,  Rubens.  His  fondness  for  painting  fat  ladies 
almost  in  a  nude  state  is  at  first  rather  shocking  to 


196  European  Correspondence. 

Americans.  I  have  seen  charming  paintings  of  Ru- 
bens' representing  the  Holy  Family,  and  others  rep- 
resenting spirited  battle  scenes. 

From  the  old  bridge  over  the  Elbe  you  have  a  fine 
view  of  the  city  and  the  valley  of  the  Elbe.  It  was 
originally  built  with  money  received  for  the  sale  of 
indulgences  for  eating  butter  and  eggs  during  Lent. 
The  Cathedral  or  Court  Church  is  a  fine  building.  It 
is  connected  with  the  palace  by  a  bridge  thrown  over 
the  street.  The  music  cannot  be  surpassed.  It  is  under 
the  supervision  of  the  director  of  the  opera,  who  merely 
transfers  his  band  from  the  royal  theatre  to  the  royal 
Catholic  Church.  I  attended  high  mass,  and  was 
charmed  with  the  music.  The  congregation  adjourned 
from  the  church  to  the  beautiful  flower  gardens  on  the 
Elbe,  where  the  rest  of  the  day  is  spent  in  dancing  and 
amusements.  The  Catholic  Germans  are  as  fun-loving 
as  the  gay  and  light-hearted  French.  They  are  as 
prompt  at  church  on  Sabbath  morning  as  they  are  at 
the  ball-room  on  Sabbath  evening.  The  Protestant  Ger- 
mans are  more  rigid  in  the  observance  of  the  Sabbath. 

The  Prussians  are  throwing  up  fortifications  with 
rapidity  all  around  Dresden.  The  military  governor 
has  issued  orders  for  eight  thousand  workmen  to 
complete  the  fortifications  in  Saxony.  Saxony  may 
nominally  be  free,  but  she  will  be  as  much  a  depend- 
ent of  Prussia  as  Bohemia  is  of  Austria.  I  think  the 
Protestant  Saxons  will  be  quite  satisfied  to  have  a 
change  in  rulers.  The  Prussian  army  has  pretty  well 
stripped  Saxony  of  cattle,  horses  and  provisions  ;  but 
such  is  the  fate  of  war.  G.  W.  W. 

Dresden,  September,  1866. 


LETTER    FOURTEENTH 


Arrival  in  Berlin — Captured  by  Napoleon  in  1806 — 
Sight  of  King  William  and  his  Prime  Minister, 
Count  Bismark — Martin  Luther  and  the  Reforma- 
tion— Germans  Light-hearted,  Merry  and  Economi- 
cal— German  System  of  Education  superior  to  that 
of  all  Nations. 

I  am  now  in  the  capital  of  the  great  Prussian 
kingdom — once  the  home  of  Frederick  the  Great. 
Of  course  I  felt  more  than  an  ordinary  interest  in  visit- 
ing this  city  of  victorious  generals.  Shortly  after 
leaving  Saxony,  you  enter  a  flat,  sandy  country  ;  in 
many  places  the  land  is  too  poor  to  produce  even  the 
most  meagre  heath.  A  traveller  is  surprised  to  find 
here  one  of  the  finest  and  most  prosperous  cities  in 
Germany,  with  a  population  of  six  hundred  thousand. 
Berlin,  with  its  broad,  parallel  streets,  bounded  by 
magnificent  houses,  reminds  me  more  of  Philadelphia 
than  any  city  I  have  seen  in  Europe.  Its  large 
squares,  splendid  palaces,  churches  and  other  build- 
ings, are  scarcely  to  be  equalled.  The  royal  palace 
and  museum  contain  a  rich  cabinet  of  paintings, 
medals,  statues  and  other  curiosities.  The  city  is 
encircled  by  a  wall  fifteen  miles  in  circumference, 
which  was  being  levelled  to  the  ground  at  the  veiy 
time  when  Benedek  was  threatening  to  march  his 
army  into  Berlin.     The  late  improvements  in  artillery 


198  European  Correspondence. 

render  these  ancient  fortifications  of  little  value.  The 
city  has  a  flourishing  trade,  growing  mainly  out  of 
its  manufactures  of  cotton,  wool,  silk,  Prussian  blue, 
cutlery,  and  the  like.  The  fact  of  its  being  the  capital 
of  a  great  nation,  adds  much  to  its  wealth  and  pros- 
perity. The  city  has  communication,  by  water,  both 
with  the  Baltic  and  German  Oceans. 

The  inhabitants  are  accused  of  always  being  on  a 
spree.  Perhaps  it  is  because  they  live  on  the  River 
Spree,  and  the  pun  may  be  permitted  to  a  traveller. 
In  1806  Napoleon  captured  the  city,  and  held  a  grand 
court  in  the  royal  palace.  The  Triumphal  Arch, 
with  numerous  fine  paintings,  were  sent  by  Napoleon 
to  Paris,  but  nearly  all  were  restored  in  1 8 1 5 ,  and  the 
old  "  Arch"  stands  now  proudly  in  its  former  position. 
I  was  anxious  to  see  King  William  and  his  Prime 
Minister.  This  was  not  difficult,  as  the  king  could  be 
seen  almost  any  day  driving  out  with  his  young 
queen.  Count  Bismark  has  a  tremendous  head,  and 
looks  as  savage  as  a  Russian  bear.  He  has  the  repu- 
tation of  being  one  of  the  most  unscrupulous  politi- 
cians in  Europe.  He  is,  however,  a  diplomatist  of 
the  first  order.  If  Bismark  is  permitted  to  make  a 
few  more  territorial  strides,  he  will  quite  absorb  the 
Fatherland.  England  and  France  are  very  jealous  of 
the  unprecedented  success  of  the  Black  Eagle,  and 
will  do  all  in  their  power  to  stay  its  territorial  flight. 
Austria  is  quite  ruled  out  of  Germany,  and  it  will  be 
many  long,  long  days  before  she  regains  her  former 
position.  The  Double-headed  Eagle  is  crippled,  but 
not  dead  ;  far  from  it. 


European  Correspondence.  199 

The  great  revolution  or  reformation  of  Martin 
Luther  has  been  steadily  advancing  for  three  hundred 
years.  The  revolution  resulted  in  the  re-establish- 
ment of  the  principles  of  early  Christianity.  Luther 
laid  down  the  broad  doctrine  that  all  power  is  derived 
from  God;  and  that  a  man  is  justified  before  God  by 
faith  in  Christ  independently  of  priestly  factorship. 
In  Germany,  those  who  are  opposed  to  the  Roman 
Catholic  Church  are  called  Protestants ;  but  it  does 
not  follow,  because  a  man  is  opposed  to  Romanism 
that  he  is  a  Christian,  or  even  a  believer  in  the  Chris- 
tian religion.  Myriads  of  the  Germans  are  transcen- 
dentalists.  At  the  beginning  of  the  present  century, 
the  German  Empire  was  composed  of  three  hundred 
distinct  and  independent  States,  divided  into  ten 
circles;  each  little  State  was  weighed  down  by  nu- 
merous petty  royal  families,  to  be  supported  in  their 
extravagance  andjjselessness  by  an  overtaxed  people. 

The  French  Revolution  wrought  many  changes  in 
Germany.  After  the  downfall  of  Napoleon  there  was 
a  reorganization  of  the  German  States ;  they  were 
reduced  to  thirty-eight  States  and  one  empire,  which 
constituted  the  Germanic  Confederacy,  with  Frankfort- 
on-the-Main  for  its  capital.  The  Confederation  had  a 
standing  army  of  four  hundred  thousand  men ;  fifty 
thousand  were  regiments  of  cavalry.  It  was  a  coali- 
tion of  sovereigns,  pledged  to  sustain  each  other  on 
their  thrones,  which  at  that  period  were  tottering. 
Austria  and  Prussia,  with  their  allies,  had  a  popula- 
tion twice  as  numerous  as  that  of  the  United  States, 
situated  in  the  centre  of  Europe.  When  united,  they 
became  an  irresistible  power. 


200  European  Correspondence. 

The  Germans,  as  a  nation,  are  devotional,  if  not 
religious.  They  are  light-hearted,  merry  and  fun- 
loving.  They  are  industrious,  economical,  energetic, 
and  the  outside  world  thinks  them  very  stubborn. 
When  Napoleon  III  wanted  a  few  feet  of  their  terri- 
tory, merely  to  straighten  old  lines,  he  found  them 
particularly  so.  They  go  from  church  to  the  public 
gardens,  where  they  engage  in  music  and  dancing, 
which  amusements  are  enjoyed  equally  by  rich  and 
poor.  The  Germans  are  noted  for  their  economy. 
This  trait  in  their  character  is  carried  to  such  an  extent 
that,  in  the  sight  of  the  prodigal  Americans,  it  looks 
like  stinginess.  They  allow  nothing  to  go  to  waste. 
You  see  the  women  gathering  the  sweepings  of  the 
public  roads,  which  they  transfer  to  their  little  farms 
and  gardens.  Land  that  has  been  in  cultivation  for  so 
many  ages  is  only  kept  alive  by  constant  applications 
of  manure  and  fertilizers.  Every  foot  of  ground  is 
forced  to  its  utmost  in  producing  food  for  the  millions 
who  inhabit  the  Old  Country.  I  wish  these  thrifty 
Germans  could  be  transferred,  by  thousands,  to  our 
own  slovenly  cultivated  farms;  every  inducement 
should  be  offered  to  encourage  them  to  emigrate  to 
the  South.  I  was  surprised  to  see  so  much  land 
devoted  to  pasturage  ;  this  is  found  necessary,  not 
only  to  rest  the  land,  but  to  produce  food  for  the  im- 
mense herds  of  cattle,  sheep  and  horses.  A  good 
farmer  changes  the  crop  nearly  every  year ;  the  soil 
would  soon  become  exhausted  if  a  rotation  of  crops 
was  not  observed.  In  many  places  in  Germany  to- 
bacco is  cultivated  with   great  success.     The  wheat 


European  Correspondence.  201 

and  oat  crops  seldom  fail ;  the  "  Irish  "  potato  is  a 
favorite  vegetable,  and  principal  food  in  some  sections ; 
the  beet,  turnip,  cabbage  and  carrots  are  cultivated 
extensively.  The  hop  and  grape  vineyards  flourish, 
but  not  so  well  as  in  France.  Manufactures  in  nearly 
every  branch  prosper,  from  the  fact  that  the  Germans 
work  cheaply  and  make  honest  goods. 

I  have  drank  many  a  glass  of  common  beer  as  an 
excuse  to  see  the  domestic  arrangements  of  a  German 
cottage.  The  interior  of  their  homes  is  much  more 
comfortable  than  the  exterior  appearance  would  indi- 
cate. The  necessity  of  keeping  the  cow-stall,  pig-sty, 
and  hay-stack  within  a  few  yards  of  the  dwelling  gives 
the  surroundings  rather  a  filthy  appearance,  but  you 
nearly  always  find  in  a  peasant's  house  neat  beds, 
with  white  linen  sheets  and  well  scrubbed  floors.  The 
children  are  taught  to  read,  in  fact  required  by  law  to 
learn  to  read.  The  schools  are  conducted  under 
State  regulations,  and  only  thorough  teachers  are 
employed.  The  German  system  of  education  is 
thought  to  be  superior  to  that  of  all  other  nations. 
Prussia  excels  in  education  and  a  general  diffusion  of 
knowledge.  Berlin  takes  the  lead  for  a  high  order 
of  accomplishments,  but  it  is  a  much  more  expensive 
place  than  Dresden,  Dusendorff  or  Hanover.  I  prefer 
Dresden  to  any  city  I  have  seen  in  Germany  as  a 
place  of  residence  and  for  educational  advantages. 
There  you  have  all  the  opportunities  for  the  acquisi- 
tion of  languages,  music,  fine  arts  and  other  accom- 
plishments, which  are  desired  by  Americans  who 
send  their  children  abroad  to  be  educated,  The 
26 


202  European  Correspondence. 

German  system  of  education  is  very  thorough;  the 
climate  gives  to  boys  a  robust  constitution  and  fine 
physical  developments,  which  are  quite  as  valuable  in 
future  life  as  superior  intellectual  endowments. 

The  peasants  have  their  annual  festivals,  which  are 
generally  observed  after  harvest,  and  are  enjoyed  by 
them  to  the  fullest  extent.  These  dances  partake 
something  of  the  character  of  the  Indian  festivities 
that  used  to  take  place  in  the  mountains  of  Georgia 
when  I  was  a  wee,  wee  boy,  and  when  the  red  man 
was  lord  of  the  mountain  and  valley.  It  was  Nature's 
children  offering  up  thanks  to  the  Great  Spirit  for  a 
bountiful  harvest  of  green  corn  and  a  plentiful  supply 
of  wild  game.  These  feasts  were  generally  opened 
by  a  ball  play  of  the  most  exciting  character.  Fifty 
young  warriors  were  engaged  on  each  side,  in  almost 
a  nude  state,  and  painted  in  the  most  fantastic  man- 
ner. One  of  the  chiefs  would  throw  up  a  buckskin 
ball,  when  the  war-whoop  would  be  raised  and  a  gen- 
eral rush  made  for  it.  In  the  scramble  a  leg  or 
arm  would  sometimes  be  broken;  but  that  circum- 
stance did  not  interfere  with  the  game.  The  green 
corn  dance  was  the  richest  and  wildest  scene. 
There  the  squaws  took  their  part.  After  the  white 
man  had  introduced  whiskey  among  the  natives, 
scenes  of  disorder  and  bloodshed  would  often  occur. 
I  have  seen  the  Cherokee  squaws,  when  under  the 
influence  of  liquor,  fight  and  pull  each  other's  raven 
locks  in  the  most  frightful  manner.  The  last  I  saw  of 
these  poor  creatures  was  when  the  United  States  Gov- 
ernment had  hunted  the  families  down  to  the  number 


European  Correspondence.  203 

of  some  ten  thousand,  and  assembled  them  in  the 
mountains  of  the  Blue  Ridge,  preparatory  to  their 
removal  to  the  far  West.  This  was  in  the  summer  of 
1834. 

I  shall  never  forget  the  heart-rending  scenes  that 
occurred  on  that  occasion.  The  Indians  have  a  super- 
stitious reverence  for  the  graves  of  their  ancestors, 
and  many  of  them  preferred  death  to  quitting  their 
homes.  In  their  effort  to  escape  they  hid  in  the 
mountain  caverns,  and  climbed  the  lofty  forest  trees. 
Orders  were  given  by  the  United  States  officers  to 
level  the  trees  to  the  ground,  regardless  of  consequen- 
ces. Some  four  thousand  of  these  poor  creatures 
perished,  never  reaching  the  homes  destined  for  them 
west  of  the  Mississippi  River.  These  outrages  were 
perpetrated  on  the  Indians  under  the  plea  of  advanc- 
ing civilization  and  Christianity  !  It  was  the  strong 
oppressing  the  weak.  Thus  it  has  been  from  the 
beginning,  and  thus  it  will  be  to  the  end  of  time. 
When  Gabriel  sounds  his  trumpet  at  the  last  day,  and 
the  great  book  of  records  is  opened,  there  will  be  a 
vast  multitude  crying  for  the  hills  and  mountains  to 
hide  their  evil  deeds. 

Please  excuse  this  digression  ;  I  frequently  wander 
back  from  the  Old  to  the  New  World.  This  is  not 
strange,  for  my  life's  history  is  in  the  latter.  The 
scenes  of  my  boyhood  in  the  sweet  vale  of  Nacoo- 
chee,  and  in  the  lofty  mountains  of  the  Blue  Ridge, 
where  I  hunted  the  fox  and  the  deer,  the  wolf  and 
the  bear,  the  wild  turkey  and  pheasant,  and  where  I 
learned  my  alphabet  in  the  rude  log  cabin,  with  the 


204  European  Correspondence. 

black-eyed  Indian  damsels — these  wild  scenes  made  a 
deep  impression  on  my  young  heart,  and  I  often  find 
myself  unlocking,  even  in  this  grand  old  country,  my 
own  little  storehouse  of  American  memories. 

G.  W.  W. 
Berlin,  Prussia,  September,   1866. 


LETTER    FIFTEENTH 


Berli?i — Monument  of  Frederick  the  Great — Palace  of 
Charlottcnhoff — Birthplace  of  the  great  Naturalist, 
Baron  Von  Humboldt — Arrival  in  Old  Hamburg. 

The  stirring  events  of  the  past  few  months  add 
much  interest  to  the  great  Prussian  metropolis.  I 
spent  two  days  in  Berlin,  and  regretted  that  the  time 
at  my  command  would  not  allow  me  a  week  in  this 
interesting  city.  The  Prussians  are  an  enterprising 
nation.  Whatever  they  undertake  must  be  executed 
on  a  grand  scale,  and  thoroughly.  I  have  seen  no 
where  in  my  travels  a  more  striking  monument  than 
that  erected  to  the  memory  of  Frederick  the  Great. 
It  is  true,  they  have  been  slow  in  offering  this  tribute 
to  one  to  whom  they  are  so  much  indebted  for  their 
greatness.  Frederick  was  to  Prussia  what  Washing- 
ton was  to  the  United  States.  He  was  both  a  hero 
and  a  statesman,  and  is  regarded  as  the  Father  of  his 
Kingdom.     The  monument  in  all  its  proportions  is 


European  Correspondence.  205 

splendid.  The  horse  on  which  the  king  majestically 
sits  is  a  noble  looking  animal,  seventeen  feet  in  height. 
The  entire  monument  is  some  fifty  feet  high.  The 
bronze  pedestal  is  of  huge  dimensions,  and  is  raised 
on  blocks  of  beautifully  polished  granite.  The  entire 
monument  consists  of  at  least  forty  figures,  and,  as  a 
work  of  art,  it  has  never  been  excelled  in  Europe.  I 
drove  through  a  beautiful  grove  of  trees,  that  would 
do  credit  to  an  American  forest,  to  the  Palace  of 
Charlottenhoff,  situated  a  few  miles  from  Berlin.  The 
buildings,  although  fine,  will  not  compare  with  the 
dazzling  palaces  of  the  city. 

The  site  of  the  palace  is  good — standing,  as  it  does, 
in  a  park  beautifully  ornamented  with  trees — the 
growth  of  centuries.  The  walks  are  lined  with  orange 
and  choice  shrubs  ;  but  there  is  a  stillness  and  want 
of  life  in  the  old  palace,  and  I  felt  as  if  moving  among 
scenes  of  days  long  passed  away,  while  I  really  stood 
in  the  home  of  living  monarchs.  The  marble  statues 
scattered  through  the  park  have  a  dingy  appearance ; 
they  look  like  neglected  monuments  in  a  deserted 
churchyard.  The  most  interesting  spot  in  these 
grounds  is  the  mausoleum,  in  which  the  late  King 
Frederick  III  and  his  queen  lie  interred.  Except  that 
of  Napoleon's  in  Paris,  these  tombs  are  the  finest  I 
have  seen  on  the  Continent.  The  lay  figures  are 
exquisitely  cut  in  pure  white  marble.  The  soft  and 
delicate  blue  light  admitted  from  the  dome  of  stained 
glass  adds  greatly  to  the  beauty  of  the  monuments. 
The  queen  was  quite  young  when,  in  1806,  Napoleon 
entered  as  conqueror  of  Berlin.     She  was  a   clever 


206  European  Correspondence. 

and  spirited  woman,  and  Napoleon  suffered  in  the 
estimation  of  the  Prussians  in  consequence  of  his 
treatment  of  their  favorite  queen.  She  died  at  the 
early  age  of  thirty-five,  while  Frederick  lived  to  the 
age  of  seventy-two.  No  traveller  should  leave  Berlin 
without  visiting  these  magnificent  monuments. 

In  one  of  the  public  squares  are  exhibited  a  large 
number  of  cannon  captured  recently  from  the  Aus- 
trians.  The  Royal  Botanical  Gardens  in  Berlin  are 
not  as  extensive  as  those  in  Paris,  but  the  exotics, 
which  grow  in  mammoth  glass  houses,  interested  me 
very  much.  The  environs  of  Berlin,  with  their  hand- 
some private  dwellings  and  magnificent  public  parks 
and  pleasure  grounds,  filled  with  beautiful  trees  and 
flowering  shrubs,  surpass  anything  I  have  yet  seen  in 
Germany.  Villas  and  summer-houses  for  refresh- 
ments are  scattered  through  these  parks.  Under  these 
grand  old  trees  rich  and  poor  assemble  to  listen  to 
the  music  or  mingle  in  the  dance.  Berlin  was  the 
birthplace  of  the  most  distinguished  naturalist  the 
world  has  ever  produced — Baron  Von  Humboldt. 
He  was  a  great  favorite  with  the  sovereigns  and  peo- 
ple of  Germany ;  and  his  name  is  universally  honored 
both  at  home  and  abroad,  for  his  vast  acquirements, 
attained  by  extensive  travel,  research  and  study.  His 
mind  was  clear  and  active  even  at  the  advanced  age 
of  eighty-four.  No  man  of  his  day  possessed  such 
general  information,  or  had  seen  so  much  of  the  hab- 
itable globe.  His  great  mind  grappled  with  and 
comprehended  nearly  every  department  of  human 
knowledge.     He  was  eminently  a  working  man.     He 


European  Correspondence.  207 

knew  the  value  of  time,  and  that  knowledge  was  only 
to  be  acquired  by  toil,  and  it  is  said  that  he  seldom 
slept  more  than  four  hours  out  of  twenty-four.  When 
this  ripe  scholar  had  reached  the  age  of  three-score- 
and-ten,  full  of  glory  and  renown,  it  seems  that  he 
might  well  have  rested  from  his  labors ;  but  not  so. 
He  was  as  diligent  in  scientific  research  at  eighty  as 
at  any  former  period  of  his  life.  Would  that  the 
young  men  of  our  country,  whose  ambition  it  is  to 
retire  from  business  at  forty — to  live  a  life  of  ease  and 
idleness — would  study  the  life  and  imitate  the  bright 
example  of  the  great  Alexander  Humboldt. 

I  left  Berlin  early  in  the  morning.  A  few  hours  by 
the  "lightning  express,"  and  I  find  myself  in  the 
quaint,  and  to  me  deeply  interesting  old  town  of 
Hamburg.  In  the  new  town  are  splendid  streets,  with 
magnificent  buildings  and  royal  palaces,  while  the  old 
is  composed  of  narrow  streets  and  alleys,  filled  with 
a  population  of  the  poor.  I  explored  one  of  these 
alleys,  where  I  found  the  people  even  more  degraded 
than  in  the  "  Five  Points"  of  New  York.  I  proposed 
to  rny  guide  to  accompany  me.  He  declined  upon 
the  plea  that  gentlemen  did  not  visit  such  places. 
Just  imagine  a  street  six  feet  wide,  with  houses  on 
each  side  from  four  to  six  stories  high,  to  say  nothing 
of  the  cellars  beneath,  all  of  which  are  occupied,  each 
room  frequently  accommodating  two  or  more  families. 

These  narrow  streets  are  several  hundred  yards  in 
length,  and  what  adds  to  the  filthiness  and  discomfort 
of  the  buildings,  is  that  there  is  in  each  but  one  mode 
of  ingress    or   egress.     The   dirty,   half-clad   women 


208    *.  European  Correspondence. 

stared  at  me,  the  smut  and  grease  dripping  from  their 
black  faces.  The  squalid  children  held  out  their 
hands,  begging  for  coppers.  I  stopped  to  take  a  peep 
into  alley  No.  2,  when  my  guide  assured  me  the 
small-pox  and  cholera  were  raging  there.  I  had  seen 
enough  of  poverty  and  wretchedness,  and  had  no 
desire  to  extend  or  prolong  my  visit  to  such  an  atmos- 
phere. I  inquired  of  a  physician  in  reference  to  the 
health  of  these  dirty  alleys,  and  he  informed  me  that 
the  mortality  was  not  greater  here  than  in  the  best 
portions  of  Hamburg.  I  was  surprised  to  find  in 
one  of  the  richest  cities  on  the  Continent  so  much 
poverty  and  degradation.  The  children  who  are  born 
and  reared  in  these  dismal  courts,  or  the  Five  Points, 
New  York,  are  no  more  affected  by  the  polluted  air 
they  breathe  than  are  the  rats  which  infest  these 
haunts  of  filth  ;  but,  as  immortal  beings,  they  must 
needs  be  corrupted  by  the  loathsome  associations  and 
corruptions  which  surround  them. 

Hamburg  is  one  of  the  oldest  of  the  free  cities  of 
Germany  ;  it  invites  the  rich  commerce  of  the  world 
to  enter  its  magnificent  harbor,  almost  free  of  duty. 
Immense  cargoes  of  merchandise  are  discharged  from 
vessels  that  lie  in  the  middle  of  the  stream  into  small 
barges ;  these  are  rowed  to  the  warehouses  at  less 
expense  than  if  the  goods  were  landed  at  the  docks 
from  the  ships.  I  drove  along  the  banks  of  the  river 
looking  at  the  miles  of  shipping,  and  was  surprised 
to  see  no  docks  ;  but  when  I  witnessed  the  facility 
with  which  the  great  cargoes  were  transferred,  by 
means  of  lighters,  to  the  storehouses,  the  absence  of 


European  Correspondence.  209 

docks  was  explained.  Here  you  find  ships  from 
nearly  every  nation.  The  star-spangled  banner,  as  it 
waved  proudly  over  the  fine  American  ships,  sent 
an  electric  shock  through  my  veins — for  the  first  time 
in  my  wanderings  I  felt  home  sick.  To  a  citizen  of 
the  United  States  there  is  something  grand  in  the 
Stars  and  Stripes.  It  is  a  flag  that  commands  the 
respect  of  all  nations.  The  gigantic  war  through 
which  we  have  just  passed  has  proved  to  the  world 
that  the  States,  when  united,  form  an  irresistible 
power,  and  are  not  to  be  trifled  with,  either  on  land 
or  sea.  May  our  great  republic  for  all  time  to  come 
cultivate  peace,  friendship  and  amity. 

G.  W.  W. 
Hamburg,  Germany,  1866. 


27 


LETTER    SIXTEENTH 


Hamburg — Fine  Port — Destructive  Fire  in   1842 — Cap- 
tured by  the  French  in  18 13 — Merchants'  Exchange. 

The  famous  old  town  of  Hamburg,  which  it  is  said 
was  founded  by  Charlemagne  in  the  eighth  century, 
has  the  finest  commercial  port  on  the  continent  of 
Europe,  and  in  many  respects  is  the  most  interesting 
of  all  its  cities.  It  is  situated  on  the  River  Elbe,  sixty 
miles  from  its  entrance  into  the  North  Sea,  and  is 
connected  by  means  of  its  canals  with  the  Baltic. 
Hamburg  has  a  population  of  two  hundred  and  fifty 
thousand.  It  is  eminently  a  commercial  city.  The 
imports  amount  to  one  hundred  and  fifty  million 
dollars  per  annum,  and  the  exports  are  about  the 
same.  The  average  number  of  vessels  arriving  annu- 
ally is  about  five  thousand.  Nearly  all  the  imports 
and  exports  of  Northern  Germany  pass  through  Ham- 
burg. In  1842  the  city  was  visited  by  a  terrible  fire, 
which  raged  for  four  days,  laying  waste  twenty 
thousand  houses,  rendering  homeless  more  than 
thirty  thousand  people.  Large  sums  of  money  and 
provisions  were  sent  from  all  quarters  of  the  globe 
to  relieve  the  sufferers.  After  the  great  fire  the 
narrow  streets  were  both  widened  and  straightened, 
and  magnificent  storehouses  and  dwellings  erected 
which  would  do  credit  to  Paris.  The  established 
religion  is  Lutheran,  but  all  denominations  are  tol- 


European  Correspondence,  211 

erated.  Twenty  thousand  Jews  reside  here.  The  city 
was  formerly  encircled  by  a  wall  four  miles  in  circum- 
ference, which  has  been  torn  down,  and  beautiful 
ornamental  walks  have  been  laid  on  the  site  of  the 
old  useless  fortifications. 

At  the  beginning  of  the  nineteenth  century  Ham- 
burg was  one  of  the  most  prosperous  cities  in  the 
world.  Merchants  flocked  here  from  all  parts  of 
Europe,  bringing  with  them  immense  treasures, 
which  they  vainly  hoped  would  be  secure  from  the 
warlike  commotions  at  that  time  agitating  the  country. 
As  Hamburg  was  a  free  city,  and  neutral  in  religion 
and  politics,  they  thought  it  would  not  be  molested. 
But  when  Napoleon  captured  Berlin,  and  was  master 
of  Prussia,  he  regarded  the  rich  town  of  Hamburg  as 
a  rightful  spoil  of  war.  Heavy  contributions  were 
laid  on  the  inhabitants,  and  the  city  was  annexed  to 
the  French  Empire. 

After  Napoleon's  unfortunate  march  to  Moscow 
the  French  were  compelled  to  evacuate  Hamburg,  and 
the  city  was  occupied  by  Russian  soldiers.  In  1813 
the  French  again  besieged  the  city,  which  they  cap- 
tured after  a  month's  resistance.  The  French  com- 
mander, Davoust,  is  said  to  have  exercised  the 
most  cruel  atrocities  upon  the  people.  In  the  depth 
of  winter  he  drove  every  person  from  the  city  who 
could  not  furnish  six  months'  supply  of  provisions. 
The  consequence  was  that  all  the  poor  had  to  leave, 
and  some  twelve  hundred  men,  women  and  children 
perished  from  cold  and  hunger.  A  monument  has 
been    erected  to   their  memory.     Napoleon   was,  no 


212        *  European  Correspondence. 

doubt,  one  of  the  greatest  generals  the  world  ever 
produced,  but  I  would  not,  for  all  his  glory  and  fame, 
have  the  blood  of  the  myriads  of  human  beings  who 
perished  under  his  ambitious  tread  staining  my  skirts. 
He  deluged  Europe  in  tears  and  blood. 

I  have  visited  the  Stock  and  Gold  Exchange  of 
Baltimore,  Philadelphia,  New  York  and  Boston ;  the 
celebrated  Bourse  of  Paris,  and  those  of  Vienna  and 
Berlin ;  but  none  of  them  interested  me  so  much  as 
the  Merchants'  Exchange  of  Hamburg.  The  mag- 
nificent building,  which  was  completed  just  before  the 
fire  in  1842,  although  enveloped  in  flames,  fortunately 
escaped  destruction.  I  went  with  my  guide  an  hour 
before  'Change,  to  have  time  enough  for  looking 
through  the  whole  establishment.  One  of  the  direc- 
tors explained  to  me  how  a  merchant  in  a  crowd  of 
five  thousand  could  be  found  without  difficulty.  The 
immense  hall,  which  is  capable  of  accommodating  six 
thousand  persons  when  standing,  is  laid  out  on  the 
principle  of  the  radii  of  a  circle.  At  I  o'clock  we 
took  our  stand  in  the  gallery,  among  numerous 
spectators,  both  ladies  and  gentlemen,  where  we 
could  look  down  upon  the  vast  assemblage  of  mer- 
chants. The  hum  of  five  thousand  human  voices 
sounded  like  the  roaring  of  a  waterfall.  In  this 
daily  gathering  of  merchants  you  find  the  cautious, 
frugal  German ;  the  bold,  dashing  Russian ;  the 
lively,  clever  Frenchman ;  the  confident  English- 
man; the  sharp,  shrewd  Yankee;  and  last,  though 
not  least,  the  cautious,  lively,  bold,  confident,  cun- 
ning Jew. 


European  Correspondence.  213 

I  was  introduced  into  the  extensive  reading  room, 
which  is  supplied  with  newspapers  and  journals  from 
all  parts  of  the  country.  The  Exchange  is  the  centre 
of  intelligence,  commercial  and  political,  foreign  and 
domestic.  A  telegraphic  office  is  kept  in  the  building 
for  its  use.  Scarcely  any  one  is  engaged  in  business 
who  is  not  a  member  of  the  Bourse  of  Hamburg. 
The  old  city,  fortunately,  was  an  ally  of  Prussia  in  the 
recent  war.  She  has,  consequently,  been  permitted 
nominally  to  maintain  her  independence. 

Having  spent  two  pleasant  days  in  Hamburg,  I 
left  for  the  City  of  Hanover  by  railway.  The  country 
through  which  we  passed  was  quite  level,  and  gener- 
ally unproductive.  It  is  a  portion  of  the  immense 
plain  of  sand  which  extends  through  Hanover,  Prus- 
sia, and  as  far  east  as  St.  Petersburg,  in  Russia.  The 
most  of  the  land  is  extremely  poor,  consisting  of  little 
else  than  barren  heath  and  scrubby  fir.  Near  the 
railway  station  in  Hanover  I  found  a  good  hotel,  with 
comfortable  accommodations.  This  is  the  new  town. 
Here  are  broad  streets  and  handsome  buildings.  But 
Old  Hanover  interested  me  most.  This- portion  of 
the  city  is  a  fine  specimen  of  an  antique  continental 
town.  Many  of  the  streets  are  narrow  and  crooked, 
and  the  houses,  which  are  often  four  to  five  stories, 
project  with  each  story  some  two  feet,  forming  almost 
an  arch  over  the  streets.  A  very  novel  sight  to  me 
were  the  houses  with  gables  toward  the  streets. 
From  the  monument  in  Waterloo  Platz  I  had  a  fine 
view  of  the  city  and  surrounding  country.  The  pal- 
ace and  other  public  buildings  were  occupied  by  the 


214  European  Correspondence. 

Prussians.  Hanover  is  now  practically  a  Prussian 
town,  with  a  large  garrison  of  blue  coats.  I  saw 
several  thousand  troops  reviewed  by  the  Crown 
Prince.  It  is  expected  he  will  remove  here  with  his 
family,  and  make  Hanover  his  future  home.  His 
court  will  doubtless  be  as  splendid  as  that  of  the 
ex-king.  I  feel  sorry  for  King  George,  who  is  old, 
blind,  and  quite  helpless.  The  inhabitants  have  made 
up  their  mind  that  nothing  that  they  can  do  will 
avert  the  new  state  of  things  ;  they  will  be  found 
as  readily  dancing  attendance  on  the  new  as  the  old 
king.  The  inhabitants,  however,  generally  regret  the 
loss  of  their  independence. 

The  compulsory  military  service  will  prove  a  hard- 
ship to  the  annexed  kingdoms  and  free  cities,  but 
such  is  the  fate  of  war.  The  barrack  accommodations 
in  Hanover  are  large,  yet  not  sufficient  to  accommodate 
the  troops  that  garrison  the  town;  several  thousand 
men  and  officers  are  billeted  on  the  citizens ;  those 
who  are  able,  provide  quarters  at  about  fifty  cents 
per  day  for  the  soldiers  assigned  to  them.  This 
billeting  system  is  particularly  hard  on  the  poor ; 
many  of  the  citizens  have  scarcely  made  enough 
during  the  past  year  to  support  their  own  household. 
They  have  been  boarding  (?)  the  Prussians  for  more 
than  three  months,  and  are  quite  tired  of  the  business, 
especially  as  they  do  not  receive  any  compensation. 
The  year  1866  has  been  fatal  to  the  Germanic  thrones 
and  free  cities  ;  Prussia  will  quite  absorb  Northern 
Germany,  and  Austria  the  Southern  States.  Prussia 
will  be  the  strong  Protestant  power  and  Austria  the 


European  Correspondence.  215 

Roman  Catholic.  Between  these  two  great  empires, 
differing  so  widely  in  religion  and  politics,  there  will 
necessarily  be  strifes  and  heart-burning.  The  Aus- 
trian Empire  cannot  exist  as  an  independent  nation 
until  it  has  in  some  way  wiped  out  the  disgraceful 
defeat  so  recently  experienced.  Austria  is  marshal- 
ling her  armies.  When  she  has  perfected  her  needle- 
gun  it  will  be  German  meet  German,  and  then  will 
come  the  tug  of  war. 

G.  W.  W. 
Hanover,  Germany,  1866. 


LETTER    SEVENTEENTH. 


Manners,  Habits  and  Customs  of  the  Germans — Birth- 
place of  Rothschild — Billeting  of  Soldiers — Germany, 
from  the  days  of  Julius  Ccesar — -Cholera — Crimean 
War. 

I  have  travelled  through  Germany  from  the  extreme 
South  to  the  Baltic  or  North  Sea,  from  Berlin  to  the 
Rhine,  and  have  also  visited  all  of  her  principal  cities. 
In  this  long  journey  I  have  endeavored  to  see  as  much 
of  the  country  as  I  could.  But  to  record  the  thou- 
sand and  one  objects  that  present  themselves  in  such 
a  tour  is  not  an  easy  matter.  I  note  down  the  princi- 
pal objects  of  interest  to  be  digested  and  written  out 
when  I  have  more  leisure. 


216  European  Correspondence. 

I  like  the  honest,  open-hearted  German  people,  and 
have  studied  carefully  their  manners,  habits,  customs, 
and  examined  their  system  of  education,  commerce, 
agriculture,  manufacturing  and  railroads.  I  have 
reviewed  two  of  the  most  powerful  armies  in  Europe, 
standing  in  battle  array.  I  am  now  in  the  far-famed 
City  of  Frankfort,  just  in  time  to  witness  its  last  free 
days.  The  terrible  scenes  and  trials  through  which 
this  old  free  city  has  recently  passed,  and  its  historical 
associations,  having  been  for  more  than  seven  hundred 
years  a  free  town,  and  during  a  long  period  the  capi- 
tal of  the  great  German  Confederation — all  these  cir- 
cumstances render  the  city,  at  this  time,  peculiarly 
interesting.  Here  the  election  and  crowning  of  the 
Emperors  of  Germany  have  taken  place  for  centuries. 
Frankfort  has  been  the  seat  of  the  largest  banking 
houses  in  the  worjd. 

It  was  in  a  narrow  alley  of  Frankfort  that  the 
founder  of  the  great  banking  house  of  Rothschild 
was  born.  Young  Rothschild  began  life  without 
money  or  family  influence  ;  but  he  possessed  industry, 
energy,  economy  and  honesty-^qualifications  which 
ensure  success.  It  is  estimated  that  the  different  gov- 
ernments in  Europe  owe  the  Rothschilds  a  thousand 
millions  of  dollars  !  In  the  immense  business  trans- 
actions of  this  house,  they  look  more  carefully  into 
the  security  of  the  negotiation  than  the  large  profits. 

The  treatment  of  Frankfort  by  the  Prussian  Gene- 
rals has  excited  universal  indignation  in  Europe. 
Gen.  Reeder  demanded  from  the  mayor  thirty  mil- 
lion florins,  with  a  threat  that  if  the  money  was  not 


European  Correspondence.  217 

forthcoming  in  twenty-four  hours,  the  postoffice  and 
telegraph  would  be  closed,  and  the  city  guarded  to 
prevent  any  articles  of  food  from  entering.  These 
demands  were  made  as  the  right  of  war,  which,  after 
all,  is  but  the  right  of  the  strong  over  the  weak,  and 
should  be  left  wholly  to  the  practice  of  barbarous 
countries.  But  war,  in  its  most  modified  usages,  is 
nothing  less  than  a  species  of  barbarism.  No  Chris- 
tian nation  should  engage  in  it.  Mayor  Feller  paid 
six  million  florins  to  Reeder,  to  relieve  the  city,  and 
liquidated  the  balance  of  the  unjustifiable  demand  by 
hanging  himself  to  the  bedpost.  The  excitement 
was  so  great  in  the  city  that  the  coffin  was  removed 
to  the  cemetery  at  night,  and  the  funeral  took  place 
at  4  o'clock,  A.  M.,  instead  of  nine,  as  advertised. 
Notwithstanding  this  precaution  the  concourse  of 
people  was  immense. 

Nearly  every  one  here  has  Prussian  soldiers  billeted 
upon  his  premises ;  one  family  was  required  to  pro- 
vide for  two  hundred,  because  the  ladies  threw  flowers 
from  their  windows  upon  the  Austrian  troops  and 
brickbats  upon  the  Prussians.  The  history  of  all  wars 
proves  that  the  women  are  more  spirited,  not  to  say 
vindictive,  than  the  men.  Prompted  by  patriotic 
sentiment,  they  ignore  consequences,  though  alas ! 
for  them,  war  often  makes  anything  but  beds  of  roses, 
and  deprives  many  a  one  of  a  lifetime  companion. 

Germany,  from  the  days  of  Julius  Caesar,  has  occu- 
pied a  prominent  position  in  the  history  of  Europe. 
The  Romans  extended  their  conquests  over  Spain, 
France  and   England,  but  never  over  the  Fatherland. 
28 


218  European  Correspondence-. 

It  is  situated  in  the  centre  of  Europe,  and  in  length, 
from  the  Adriatic  to  the  North  Sea,  seven  hundred 
and  fifty  miles ;  in  breadth,  from  Belgium  to  Russia, 
six  hundred  and  fifty  miles,  and  contains  fifty  thou- 
sand square  miles,  with  a  population  of  seventy  mil- 
lions— in  the  new  organization,  being  pretty  equally 
divided  between  Prussia  and  Austria,  and  their  allies. 
In  nearly  every  quarter  of  Germany  extensive  chains 
of  mountains  are  to  be  found ;  but  none  of  them  will 
compare  in  height  or  beauty  of  scenery  to  those  of 
Switzerland.  The  most  elevated  mountains  I  saw 
were  in  Bavaria,  their  summits  being  white  with  snow 
even  in  August.  I  was  surprised  to  find  in  this  old 
country  immense  forests  of  timber,  which  are  a  source 
of  great  wealth.  More  than  a  fourth  of  Germany  is 
covered  with  forests.  The  climate  varies  with  the 
elevation  of  the  different  localities,  but  neither  the 
heat  nor  cold  is  extreme.  During  my  journey  thus 
far  through  the  Continent  of  Europe,  the  thermometer 
was  not  above  sixty-five  degrees.  Germany  is  well 
watered  ;  I  found  it  particularly  so,  as  it  rained  fifty- 
seven  days  out  of  sixty. 

The  system  of  agriculture  is  better  in  Southern 
than  in  Northern  Germany.  At  the  South  the 
Napoleonic  code  is  introduced,  the  large  estates  being 
generally  divided  into  small  farms,  which  are  owned 
by  those  who  cultivate  them.  Food  and  living  is, 
consequently,  much  cheaper  in  Austria  than  Prussia. 
The  country  is  not  in  as  high  a  state  of  cultivation  as 
I  expected  to  find  it,  though  I  saw  it  under  very 
unfavorable  circumstances,  as  nearly  the  whole  of  the 


European  Correspondence.  219 

male  population  has  been,  for  several  months,  with- 
drawn from  agricultural  pursuits.  If  the  people  of 
Germany  would  cultivate  peace,  instead  of  engaging 
in  wars  of  thirty  years'  duration,  the  condition  of 
their  women  would  be  greatly  changed  for  the  better. 
Upon  them  the  most  of  the  drudgeries  of  the  farm 
devolve — such  as  ploughing,  hoeing,  raking,  reaping 
and  threshing.  They  are  even  made  beasts  of  burden. 
It  is  not  an  uncommon  sight  to  see  a  delicate  female 
harnessed  beside  a  dog,  trudging  along  the  public 
roads  through  rain  and  mud,  pulling  a  heavily  loaded 
cart.  They  also  carry  heavy  baskets  strapped  on 
their  backs,  filled  with  market  vegetables.  The  women 
in  this  old  country  have  a  very  hard  time ;  they 
greatly  outnumber  the  men,  who  emigrate  or  are 
killed  in  battle.  As  a  consequence,  Mormonism  is 
practiced  on  a  large  scale.  There  are,  however,  many 
finely  educated  ladies  here.  It  is  the  frequent  wars 
that  render  the  situation  of  the  women  in  Germany  so 
hard.  In  the  Crimean,  the  Anglo-Indian,  and  the 
Italian  wars,  all  of  which  occurred  between  1853  and 
i860,  more  than  a  million  of  their  men  perished. 

In  the  Crimean  war  alone,  which  lasted  only  two 
and  a  half  years,  Europe  lost  six  hundred  thousand 
men.  The  amount  of  money  swallowed  up  in  the 
almost  perpetual  European  wars  is  past  computation. 
In  the  recent  short  struggle  between  Prussia  and 
Austria,  more  than  two  hundred  thousand  men  were 
killed  in  battle  or  died  from  disease.  The  cholera  has 
made  sad  havoc  among  the  soldiers.  More  persons 
die  from  diseases  contracted  in  camp  than  are  killed 


220  European  Correspondence. 

in  battle.  But  one  need  not  come  to  Europe  to 
witness  the  horrors  of  war.  Our  own  sunny  South, 
which  was,  six  years  ago,  the  most  prosperous  country 
in  the  world,  has  been  deluged  in  blood,  and  her  peo- 
ple reduced  to  poverty.  This  cruel  war  has  made  a 
nation  of  widows  and  orphans,  with  no  government  to 
protect  or  care  for  them.  It  was  permitted  of  God 
that  these  calamities  should  come  upon  our  people, 
and  we  should  deplore  our  evils  with  a  due  feeling  of 
resignation.  Let  us  do  our  whole  duty  and  trust  in 
Divine  Providence.  I  am  not  without  hope  that  our 
land  will  again  blossom  as  the  rose.  We  must,  how- 
ever, all  work. 

G.  W.  W. 
Frankfort-on-the- Maine,  September,  1 866. 


LETTER    EIGHTEENTH 


Frankfort — Old  German  Emperors — Statue  of  Charle- 
magne— Goetlie,  the  favorite  German  Poet — Printing 
Press —  War  in  Germany —  Count  Bismark. 

Frankfort  is  in  the  valley  of  the  Main,  and  is  in  the 
centre  of  a  fertile  country.  It  has  nearly  one  hundred 
thousand  inhabitants.  The  new  portion  of  the  city 
contains  the  finest  private  residences  in  Germany. 
One  of  the  chief  objects  of  interest  to  the  traveller  is 
the  old  hall  of  the  Senate — not  so  much  for  its  splen- 
dor as  for  its  historical  associations.  As  I  walked 
through  the  Elector's  room,  fifty-two  old  German 
Emperors,  from  Conrad  I  to  Francis  II  looked  down 
upon  me  from  the  walls  on  which  they  were  hanging. 
I  could  not  but  think  where  are  these  great  men  now? 
To  their  praise  it  is  recorded,  that  in  this  long  line  of 
emperors  there  were  found  very  few  tyrants.  In 
addition  to  the  fifty-two  portraits,  there  are  many 
splendid  paintings  in  the  hall.  "  The  Judgment  of 
Solomon,"  by  Steinle,  is  a  striking  picture.  It  was  a 
wise  thought  of  Solomon  in  proposing  to  "  divide  the 
child  in  two ;  give  one-half  to  the  one,  and  half  to 
the  other."  The  greatest  horror  is  depicted  on  the 
countenance  of  the  natural  mother,  at  the  prospect 
of  having  her  child  slain.  Immediately  above  the 
bridge,  on  the  Main,  is  the  statue  of  the  famous 
Charlemaene,  who  was,  for  a  lone  time,  resident  of 


222  European  Correspondence. 

the  Imperial  Free  City.  Charlemagne,  in  his  day, 
was  equal  to  Napoleon  in  the  nineteenth  century. 
The  favorite  German  poet,  Goethe,  was  born  here, 
and  a  handsome  marble  statue  of  him  stands  in  the 
Public  Library.  There  is  also  a  monumental  statue 
of  Goethe  near  the  theatre.  In  the  gallery  is  a  fine 
portrait  of  the  great  Reformer,  Martin  Luther,  who, 
at  one  time,  resided  in  Frankfort,  though  he  was  a 
native  of  Saxony.  The  old  fortifications  that  encircled 
the  town  have  been  torn  down  and  handsome  gardens 
laid  out  on  the  site.  The  Jews,  until  recently,  were 
treated  with  great  illiberality  in  Frankfort.  They 
were  restricted  to  a  particular  quarter  of  the  city,  and 
the  gates  were  closed  at  an  eaniy  hour  every  night, 
after  which  ingress  and  egress  were  denied  them. 
The  law  restricting  their  marriages  in  the  city  to 
thirteen  annually,  was  not  repealed  until  1834.  The 
Exchange  here  is  a  fine  building,  and  contains  two 
imposing  figures,  representing  Hope  and  Prudence. 
Hope  inspires  confidence  and  courage,  while  Prudence 
makes  us  cautious,  careful  and  discreet.  Mercantile 
success  is  largely  due  to  the  united  influence  of  these 
principles. 

I  was  introduced  into  two  extensive  reading-rooms. 
Each  of  them  contained  more  than  a  hundred  news- 
papers and  journals.  American  politics  are  studied 
as  closely  here  as  on  Wall  street.  The  bankers  said 
to  me :  "  You  will  have  civil  war  again  in  the  United 
States  in  less  than  twelve  months."  I  replied,  never — 
never.  They  said,  "  If  we  could  feel  assured  of  that 
fact,  your  bonds,  which  are  now  selling  at  thirty  per 


European  Correspondence.  223 

cent,  discount,  would  command  a  premium."  A  re- 
stored Union,  no  doubt,  would  inspire  confidence  and 
create  such  a  foreign  demand  for  American  securities 
as  to  bring  back  our  currency  to  a  specie  basis — a 
result  greatly  to  be  desired  by  all  sections  of  the 
country.  Until  our  political  affairs  are  more  settled, 
however,  capitalists  will  be  very  cautious  in  making 
investments  in  American  securities — especially  at  any- 
thing like  their  value.  The  Germans  hold  a  large 
amount  of  Confederate  bonds,  and  wished  to  know 
the  prospect  of  their  being  paid.  I  told  them  the 
bonds  would  be  good  "six  months  after  the  ratifica- 
tion of  a  treaty  of  peace  between  the  United  States 
and  the  Confederate  States  " — but  it  was  quite  uncer- 
tain when  such  an  event  would  happen. 

An  hour  by  railway  from  Frankfort,  in  the  valley 
of  the  Main,  through  an  extremely  fertile  and  finely 
cultivated  country,  and  we  arrive  at  Mayence,  the 
chief  city  of  the  Grand  Duchy  of  Hesse  Darmstadt. 
Mayence  is  at  the  mouth  of  the  River  Main,  on 
the  Rhine — population  forty-five  thousand.  It  is  a 
strongly  fortified  city,  having,  for  a  long  period,  been 
the  strongest  fortress  of  the  German  Confederation, 
with  a  garrison  of  five  thousand  Prussian  and  five 
thousand  Austrian  troops,  commanded  alternately  for 
five  years  by  an  Austrian  and  a  Prussian  Governor. 
The  lofty  old  houses  and  narrow  crooked  streets, 
gives  the  city  an  antique  appearance.  The  mammoth 
cathedral,  built  of  red  sandstone,  is  nearly  a  thousand 
years  old.  The  interior  is  richly  painted,  and  con- 
tains   numerous    old    statues.     During    the    frequent 


224  European  Correspondence. 

bombardments  of  the  city,  the  old  cathedral  was  much 
damaged.  The  Jacobins  converted  it  into  a  powder 
magazine.  A  bridge  of  boats,  seventeen  hundred  feet 
long,  connects  Mayence  with  Cassel  on  the  opposite 
side  of  the  Rhine. 

The  printing  press,  which  has  had  such  a  powerful 
influence  in  advancing  human  knowledge,  was  in- 
vented here  by  John  Gutenberg,  in  1444.  A  bronze 
statue  has  been  erected  to  his  memory.  Steamers, 
during  the  summer  months,  leave  Mayence  three  or 
four  times  daily  for  Cologne;  also,  three  railway  trains. 
Mayence  carries  on  a  brisk  trade  in  grain  and  lum-„ 
ber  brought  down  the  Rhine,  and  from  the  interior 
by  rail.  The  growth  of  the  finest  Rhenish  wine  is 
limited  to  a  circle  of  about  ten  miles  around  Mayence. 

Prussia  has  absorbed  Hanover,  Hesse  Cassel,  Nas- 
sau and  Frankfort.  She  will  not  be  satisfied  with  the 
humiliation  of  Austria,  but  will  dictate  terms  of  her 
own  for  all  the  German  States.  Holland,  Belgium, 
and  Old  Hamburg  may  for  the  present  maintain  their 
nationality,  but  they  will  all  sooner  or  later  be  Prus- 
sianized. 

The  recent  war  in  Germany  was  not  for  liberty,  but 
for  territorial  aggrandizement.  Prussia  wished  to 
extend  her  northern  boundary  over  the  Duchy  of  Hol- 
stein,  which  was  at  one  time  a  province  of  Denmark. 
It  was  against  the  interest  of  Austria  for  Prussia  to 
increase  her  territory,  and,  in  consequence,  the  power 
of  her  rival  for  position  and  supremacy.  The  Ger- 
man Diet  at  Frankfort  adhered  to  Austria  by  a  vote 
of  nine  to  six,  and  armed  against  Prussia.     Austria 


European  Correspondence.  225 

found  herself  between  two  fires.  King  Emanuel 
wanted  Venetia,  and  now  was  the  time  to  strike  the 
blow  for  its  recovery  to  Italy.  It  was  the  expecta- 
tion of  Napoleon  that  the  two  great  powers,  before 
the  conflict  ended,  would  become  so  exhausted  that? 
when  he  got  ready  to  mediate,  France  would  be  able 
to  secure  the  Rhine  as  the  boundary  of  her  empire. 
The  unexpected  and  disastrous  defeat  of  the  Aus- 
trians  occurred  just  as  the  Prussian  army  was  fairly 
organized.  Napoleon  consequently  found  himself 
unprepared  to  enforce  successfully  any  demands  he 
might  make  on  German  territory.  Bismark  knew 
the  strength  of  his  kingdom,  hence  his  laconic  reply 
to  the  French. 

Bismark  has  been  for  the  past  six  years  the  master 
spirit  in  Germany,  and  recently  he  has  almost  eclipsed 
the  distinguished  Emperor  of  the  French.  In  1859, 
Bismark  was  the  Prussian  Ambassador  at  the  Court 
of  the  Tuileries.  While  in  Paris  it  is  thought  he  took 
some  diplomatic  lessons  from  Napoleon.  I  should 
not  wonder  if  he  did,  for  his  eyes  are  large,  and  he 
keeps  them  pretty  wide  open.  In  1862,  Bismark  was 
ordered  by  King  William  to  Berlin  to  form  a  new 
ministry,  over  which  he  was  appointed  chief.  His 
first  act  was  to  augment  and  reorganize  the  army, 
and  to  extend  the  military  service  in  the  army  to 
three  years.  This  was  quite  an  unpopular  measure, 
and  was  rejected  by  a  vote  of  two  hundred  and 
seventy-two  against  sixty-eight.  Bismark  coolly  dis- 
solved the  ministry,  giving  them  to  understand  that 
the  king  would  dispense  with  their  approval  of  the 
29 


226   --  European  Correspondence. 

budget,  and  would  put  in.  execution  whatever  meas- 
ures he  deemed  best  for  the  public  good.  Bismark 
had  some  queer  notions  on  political  economy ;  he 
was  in  favor  of  passing  a  law  regulating  the  prices  of 
all  commodities ;  he  was  also  in  favor  of  prescribing 
the  number  of  apprentices  who  should  be  admitted  to 
each  trade. 

Count  Bismark  is  fifty-three  years  old,  and  is  of  a 
stout,  robust  constitution;  but  the  heavy  duties  which 
devolved  upon  him  during  the  past  year,  and  more 
especially  during  the  reorganization  of  the  Northern 
Germanic  Confederacy,  have  affected  his  brain.  His 
illness  is  regarded  as  of  serious  character.  It  will  be 
difficult  to  get  a  suitable  man  to  occupy  the  office 
which  has  been  so  illustriously  filled  by  Bismark. 
The  brilliant  success  of  his  measures  has  made  him 
one  of  the  most  popular  statesmen  in  Germany,  and 
it  is  said  he  is  disposed  to  introduce  liberal  reforms 
and  make  the  change  as  light  as  possible  for  the  new 
Prussian  subjects.  His  object  is  to  make  a  strong  and 
united  government. 

G.  W.  W. 

Mayence,  Germany,  September,   1866. 


LETTER    NINETEENTH. 


The  Rivers  in  Germany — Swamps  and  Sea  Islands  of 
the  Palmetto  State — " Bingcn  on  the  Rhine" — The 
Horrors  of  War. 

The  rivers  in  Germany,  when  compared  with  those 
in  America,  are  small,  and  their  navigation  is  rendered 
dangerous  by  numerous  falls,  while  the  ice  obstructs 
many  of  them  six  months  in  the  year.  The  Elbe  is 
an  important  river,  as  it  furnishes  the  splendid  port  of 
Hamburg.  The  Danube  is  one  of  the  finest  rivers  in 
Europe.  It  rises  in  the  mountains  of  Prussia,  and 
flows  south  through  Saxony,  Bohemia,  Austria  and 
Bavaria,  and  empties  into  the  Black  Sea.  The  scenery 
on  some  portions  of  the  Danube  is  picturesque  and 
grand,  especially  between  Vienna  and  Linz.  But  of 
all  the  rivers  on  the  Continent,  the  Rhine  interests 
one  most.  I  saw  it  in  the  Alps  of  Switzerland,  with 
scarcely  water  enough  to  float  a  duck ;  and  I  have 
seen  it  dashing  over  steep  precipices  and  cliffs,  fed  by 
thousands  of  glaciers  and  mountain  rivulets,  until  it  has 
grown  into  a  great  navigable  river,  forming  boundaries 
and  barriers  between  mighty  nations.  A  violent 
storm  on  the  ocean  threw  up  an  immense  bank  of 
sand,  which  closed  the  mouth  of  the  Rhine  for  more 
than  a  thousand  years — its  great  volume  of  water  was 
lost  in  the  vast  beds  of  sand,  spreading  over  Holland, 
converting  many  portions  of   it  into    morasses    and 


228  European  Correspondence. 

miasmatic  swamps.  When  Napoleon  was  stretching 
his  ambitious  wing  over  land  and  sea,  he  made  his 
brother,  Louis  Bonaparte,  King  of  Holland.  Under 
the  administration  of  King  Louis,  the  Rhine  was 
made,  by  means  of  canals  and  dykes,  to  discharge 
itself  through  immense  sluice-gates  into  the  ocean. 
When  the  tide  flows  the  gates  are  shut  to  prevent 
the  entrance  of  the  sea.  During  ebb  tide  they  are 
opened  by  means  of  machinery,  to  allow  the  accumu- 
lated streams  to  pass  out.  This  artificial  drainage, 
produced  by  gigantic  hydraulic  works,  has  proved  to 
be  of  incalculable  advantage  to  Holland,  transforming 
lagoons  into  beautiful  garden  farms. 

I  wish  a  Napoleon  had  possession  of  the  swamps 
and  sea  islands  of  the  Palmetto  State ;  they  are  capa- 
ble of  being  made  a  second  Eden.  In  i860,  the 
sea  islands  of  South  Carolina  were  El  Dorados  of 
the  South,  but  four  years  of  desolating  war  have 
almost  converted  them  into  howling  wildernesses. 
The  elegant  homes  of  the  planters,  which  were  spared 
by  the  English  and  "  savages  "  in  the  days  of  the  first 
American  revolution,  were  burned  during  the  late 
civil  war,  and  orange  groves,  and  the  grand  old  oaks 
which  the  woodman  had  spared  for  centuries,  were 
levelled  to  the  ground.  This  is  the  result  of  relent- 
less war,  with  its  myriad  of  malignant  hates  and  mer- 
cenary appetites.  May  our  people  never  again  find  it 
necessary  or  wise  to  convert  the  ploughshare  into  the 
sword ! 

But  to  return  to  the  Rhine.  An  hour  from  May- 
ence — or  Menz,    as    the   Germans    call    it — in  a  fine 


European  Correspondence.  229 

steamer,  through  the  richest  scenery,  and  I  find 
myself  at  Bingen — dear  "Bingen  on  the  Rhine."  I 
was  forcibly  reminded  of  the  following  beautiful  poem 
of  Mrs.  Norton,  which  a  friend  in  the  "  Queen  City  " 
has  so  often  sung  and  read  for  me  : 


A  soldier  of  the  legion  lay  dying  in  Algiers  ; 

There  was  lack  of  woman's  nursing — there  was  dearth  of  woman's  tears  ; 

But  a  comrade  stood  beside  him,  while  his  life-blood  ebb'd  away, 

And  bent,  with  pitying  glances,  to  hear  what  he  might  say. 

The  dying  soldier  faltered,  as  he  took  that  comrade's  hand, 

And  he  said,  "  I  never  more  shall  see  my  own,  my  native  land  ; 

Take  a  message,  and  a  token,  to  some  distant  friends  of  mine, 

For  I  was  born  at  Bingen — at  Bingen  on  the  Rhine. 

II. 

"  Tell  my  brothers  and  companions,  when  they  meet  and  crowd  around 
To  hear  my  mournful  story  in  the  pleasant  vineyard  ground, 
That  we  fought  the  battle  bravely  5   and  when  the  day  was  done, 
Full  many  a  corpse  lay  ghastly  pale,  beneath  the  setting  sun  : 
And  midst  the  dead  and  dying  were  some  grown  old  in  wars, 
The  death-wound  on   their  gallant  breasts — the  last  of  many  scars  ; 
And  some  were  young — and  suddenly  beheld  life's  morn  decline  ; 
And  some  had  come  from  Bingen — fair  Bingen  on  the  Rhine! 

III. 

"  Tell  my  mother  that  her  other  sons  shall  comfort  her  old  age, 

And  I  was  aye  a  truant  bird  that  thought  his  home  a  cage  : 

For  my  father  was  a  soldier,  and  even  as  a  child, 

My  heart  leaped  forth  to  hear  him  tell  of  struggles  fierce  and  wild  ; 

And  when  he  died,  and  left  us  to  divide  his  scanty  hoard, 

I  let  them  take  whate'er  they  would,  but  kept  my  father's  sword  ; 

And  with  boyish  love  I  hung  it  where  the  bright  light  used  to  shine, 

On  the  cottage  wall  at  Bingen — calm  Bingen  on  the  Rhine  ! 


230  European  Correspondence. 

IV. 

''  Tell  my  sister  not  to  weep  for  me,  and  sob  with   drooping  head, 

When  the  troops  are  marching  home  again,  with  glad  and  gallant  tread; 

But  to  look  upon  them  proudly,  with  a  calm  and  steadfast  eye, 

For  her  brother  was  a  soldier,  too,  and  not  afraid  to  die. 

And  if  a  comrade  seeks  her  love,  I  ask  her  in  my  name, 

To  listen  to  him  kindly,  without  regret  or  shame, 

And  to  hang  the  old  sword  in  its  place  (my  father's  sword  and  mine,) 

For  the  honor  of  old  Bingen — dear  Bingen  on  the  Rhine  ! 


"  There's  another — not  a  sister  ;   in  the  happy  days  gone  by, 

You'd  have  known  her  by  the  merriment  that  sparkled  in  her  eye  ; 

Too  innocent  for  coquetry — too  fond  for  idle  scorning — 

Oh  !  friend,  I  fear  the  lightest  hearts  make  sometimes  heaviest  mourning  ; 

Tell  her  the  last  night  of  my  life  (for  ere  the  moon  be  risen 

My  body  will  be  out  of  pain — my  soul  be  out  of  prison,) 

I  dream'd  I  stood  with  her  and  saw  the  yellow  sunlight  shine 

On  the  vine-clad  hills  of  Bingen — fair  Bingen  on  the  Rhine  ! 

VI. 

"  I  saw  the  blue  Rhine  sweep  along — I  heard  or  seem'd  to  hear, 

The  German  song  we  used  to  sing,  in  chorus  sweet  and  clear, 

And  down  the  pleasant  river,  and  up  the  slanting  hill, 

The  echoing  chorus  sounded,  through  the  evening  calm  and  still  ; 

And  her  glad  blue  eyes  were  on  me  as  we  passed  with  friendly  talk, 

Down  many  a  path  beloved  of  yore,  and  well  remembered  walk, 

And  her  hand  lay  lightly,  softly,  confidingly  in  mine  : 

But  we'll  meet  no  more  at  Bingen — loved  Bingen  on  the  Rhine  !" 

One  night  a  loved  one  was  reading  the  above  pa- 
thetic poem — her  little  six-year  old  boy  melted  in 
tears,  and  said :  "  Please,  mother,  don't  read  about 
the  poor  soldier — it  makes  me  feel  so  sad  !"  Oh,  the 
horrors  of  war — thou  bane  of  life  and  happiness — 
how  many  mothers  hast  thou  robbed  of  their  darling 


European  Correspondence.  231 

sons,  wives  of  their  husbands,  and  children  of  their 
parents  !  Every  human  being  that  perishes  in  battle 
is  a  violation  of  the  sixth  commandment.  A  friend 
of  mine  in  Charleston  had  three  sons,  boys  of  whom 
any  mother  might  well  be  proud,  for  they  were  young 
men  of  uncommon  brightness  and  promise.  The 
fond  mother  had  deprived  herself  of  many  a  comfort 
that  they  might  receive  a  liberal  education.  The  first 
time  I  saw  the  eldest,  he  brought  a  letter  of  introduc- 
tion from  the  lamented  James  L.  Petigru,  who  was  a 
steadfast  friend  of  the  family.  Mr.  Petigru  discovered 
mind  and  genius  in  "  Charlie  Wildwood,  "  and  his 
kind  and  benevolent  heart  was  interested  in  the  youth. 
The  truth  is,  Mr.  P.'s  heart  was  always  larger  than  his 
purse.  He  was  kept  poor  in  helping  others.  The 
three  boys  wereamong  the  first  to  enter  the  Con- 
federate army.  In  the  memorable  battles  around 
Richmond,  Captain  H.,  while  at  the  head  of  his  com- 
pany, fell  mortally  wounded.  His  brother  ran  to  his 
assistance,  and  was  instantly  killed.  The  third  son 
fell  in  the  army  of  Tennessee.  Thus  perished  LeRoy, 
Frederick,  and  Abner  Hammond — worthy  descend- 
ants of  the  Hammonds  of  Revolutionary  memory, 
who  fought  so  bravely  to  establish  American  Inde- 
pendence. I  shall  never  forget  the  pale,  sorrowful 
countenance  of  the  heart-broken  mother  when  she 
informed  me  of  her  irreparable  loss.  Mrs.  H.'s  great- 
est desire  was  to  recover  the  bodies  of  her  sons.  At 
that  time  ladies  were  not  permitted  to  visit  Rich- 
mond, as  the  railroads  were  employed  to  their  utmost 
capacity  in  transporting  troops,  commissary   stores, 


232  European   Correspondence. 

etc.  The  feeble,  delicate  mother  persevered  until  she 
got  a  permit  to  visit  Richmond  in  the  capacity  of  a 
nurse.  She  saw  the  graves  of  thousands  of  poor  sol- 
diers, but  returned  without  her  lost  treasures.  The 
recollection  of  these  sad  histories,  which  were  the 
result  of  an  unnecessary  and  unfortunate  war,  makes 
me  feel  as  my  little  boy  did  when  his  mother  read  to 
him  about  the  soldier  of  Bingen — "dear  Bingen  on 
the  Rhine." 

G.  W.  W. 
Bingen  on  the  Rhine,  September,    1866. 


LETTER    TWENTIETH 


Ancient  Castles — Statues — Bishop  Hutto — Floating  Isl- 
ands of  Timber — Scenery  of  the  Rhine — Old  Cologne 
— Banishment  of  the  yews — World-renowned  Cathe- 
dral—  Church  of  Saint  Ursula. 

The  steep,  vine-clad  mountains  around  Bingen, 
almost  shut  in  the  Rhine.  It  is  not  surprising  that 
the  Germans  have  a  superstitious  reverence  for  this 
grand  old  river,  for  on  its  picturesque  banks  there  is 
a  blending  of  beauties  and  relics  not  to  be  found  on 
any  other  river  in  Europe.  I  cannot  but  feel  an 
interest  in  the  ruins  of  the  ancient  castles  which  crown 
nearly  every  hill.  They  are  tottering  monuments  of 
a  defunct  feudal  aristocracy  of  the  middle  ages.     With 


European  Correspondence.  233 

each  castle  is  a  legend.  They  were  the  abodes  of 
many  daring  chiefs,  but  their  memories  have  perished 
with  them.  One  feels,  as  he  travels  through  this  old 
country,  the  spirit  of  the  past,  and  its  touching  recol- 
lections come  back  upon  the  mind  with  irresistible 
power. 

Bingen  was  a  favorite  retreat  of  the  famous  Charle- 
magne. He  built,  in  this  neighborhood,  a  magnificent 
palace,  ornamented  with  one  hundred  marble  col- 
umns. Only  a  few  pillars  remain  to  mark  the  site  of 
this  once  grand  edifice.  Our  guide  pointed  out  a 
marble  statue  of  one  of  Charlemagne's  four  queens. 
A  thousand  years  ago,  queens  were  scarcely  as  grand, 
by  comparison,  as  milkmaids  nowadays.  On  an 
island  in  the  middle  of  the  stream  is  a  tower,  where 
tradition  tells  us  that  Bishop  Hutto  was  eaten  up  by 
the  rats  for  his  misdeeds.  That  army  of  sharp- 
toothed  quadrupeds  might  find  active  employment  in 
some  other  countries  that  I  have  read  of,  in  doing  the 
work  equally  of  divine  and  human  justice. 

The  Rhine  is  distinguished  for  its  beauty  of  scenery 
and  for  the  rich  fields,  valleys  and  vineyards  which 
line  its  banks.  Populous  cities,  towns  and  valleys 
ornament  its  borders.  The  Rhine  furnishes  seven 
hundred  miles  of  .navigation  from  Basle,  in  Switzer- 
land, to  the  sea,  thus  enabling  the  inhabitants  of  its 
fertile  valleys  to  exchange  their  products  at  a  small 
expense  for  transportation.  I  was  much  interested 
in  the  immense  floating  islands  of  timber  as  they 
drifted  slowly  down  the  Rhine.  These  huge  rafts  are 
made  up  of  logs  as  they  are  hurled  down  the  steep 
30 


234  European  Correspondence. 

mountains,  one  at  a  time,  until  enough  are  collected 
to  make  the  foundation  of  a  respectable  village.  I 
counted  eight  rude  cottages  built  on  one  raft.  In 
addition  to  the  large  colony  of  pigs,  cows,  sheep  and 
poultry,  there  are  often  as  many  as  four  hundred  per- 
sons acting  in  the  capacity  of  rowers,  pilots,  cooks, 
workmen,  and  so  on.  This  motley  group  of  men, 
women  and  children  seemed  quite  at  home  in  the 
immense  ark.  The  lively  and  enchanting  music, 
which  is  as  essential  to  the  German  as  his  pipe,  is  to 
be  heard  early  and  late.  The  captain  occupies  an 
elevated  position,  from  which  he  can  command  a 
view  of  the  raft,  from  end  to  end,  and  directs  its  move- 
ments by  signals.  You  can  judge  of  the  magnitude 
and  cost  of  a  Rhine  raft  when  you  learn  that  the 
workmen  are  months  in  constructing  it,  and  consume 
from  its  commencement  until  it  is  sold,  sixty  thou- 
sand pounds  of  bread  and  potatoes,  forty  thousand 
pounds  of  butter  and  cheese,  thirty-five  thousand 
pounds  of  meat,  five  hundred  tons  beer,  besides  wine, 
vegetables,  etc.  A  good  sized  raft  sells  in  Holland 
for  one  hundred  thousand  to  one  hundred  and  fifty 
thousand  dollars.  The  usual  voyage  from  Bingen  to 
Holland  is  twenty  days. 

As  a  commercial  channel,  the  Rhine  is  one  of  the 
most  important  rivers  on  the  Continent.  The  travel 
up  and  down  the  river  from  Mayence  to  Cologne  is 
immense.  As  a  swift  railway  is  on  each  bank  of  this 
noble  river,  the  travel  by  steamer  is  rapidly  diminish- 
ing. From  the  deck  of  a  steamer  alone,  however,  you 
are  able  to  obtain  a  full  view  of  the  Rhine  scenery. 


European  Correspondence.  235 

My  passage  from  Bingen  to  Cologne  was  delightful; 
the  scenery  varied  every  moment,  with  the  vine-ter- 
raced hills  often  bordering  the  very  water's  edge. 
The  great  beauties  of  the  Rhine,  after  leaving  Switzer- 
land, lie  between  Mayence  and  Bonn. 

But  here  is  old  Cologne,  which  is  one  of  the  finest 
cities  on  the  Rhine,  filled  with  churches,  cathedrals, 
museums  and  palaces,  and  rich  in  historic  associa- 
tions. In  the  thirteenth  century,  Cologne  was  one  of 
the  most  populous  cities  in  Germany.  With  one 
hundred  and  fifty  thousand  inhabitants,  Cologne  flour- 
ished not  only  in  the  possession  of  three  hundred 
church  steeples,  but  in  commerce,  science  and  the 
fine  arts.  This  interesting  and  antique  city  was  first 
settled  by  the  Romans  under  Marcus  Agrippa. 
Agrippina,  mother  of  the  monster  of  crime  and  ca- 
price, Nero,  who  fiddled  while  Rome  was  burning, 
was  born  here.  The  ancient  walls  which  surround  a 
portion  of  the  town,  with  their  immense  towers  and 
broad  gates,  are  fine  specimens  of  the  fortifications  of 
the  middle  ages,  but  with  the  modern  improvements 
in  artillery  they  are  of  little  use. 

The  old  city  became  the  theatre  of  religious  perse- 
cution. Fifty  thousand  Jews  were  banished  in  one 
year ;  then  followed  the  expatriation  of  the  Protes- 
tants. Thousands  of  the  best  houses  became  tenant- 
less,  trade  declined,  the  fine  arts  were  neglected.  The 
proud  city  which,  at  one  time,  could  send  forth  thirty 
thousand  fighting  men,  was  reduced,  by  religious  in- 
tolerance, to  less  than  that  number  of  men,  women 
and  children.     Since  the  French  revolution  the  city 


236       *  European  Correspondence. 

has  greatly  advanced  in  wealth  and  population. 
Cologne  has  now  one  hundred  and  twenty-five  thou- 
sand inhabitants,  and  carries  on  a  large  trade.  Under 
the  Prussian  Government,  the  city  is  throwing  off  its 
former  dirty  and  gloomy  appearance.  Many  of  the 
streets  and  houses  would  do  credit  to  Berlin.  Its  fine 
water  communications  are  of  great  advantage.  The 
city  is  now  the  centre  of  railways  running  to  Berlin, 
Frankfort,  Antwerp  and  Paris.  Near  the  splendid 
new  iron  bridge  over  the  Rhine,  is  the  world-re- 
nowned cathedral.  I  wandered  through  this  stupen- 
dous Gothic  building,  which  was  intended  by  the 
ambitious  architect  to  be  the  largest  and  most  mag- 
nificent church  on  the  globe,  eclipsing  even  the  great 
Saint  Peter's  at  Rome.  Many  millions  of  dollars  have 
been  expended  on  it.  Although  six  long  centuries 
have  passed  away  since  its  foundations  were  laid,  the 
busy  mechanics  are  still  at  work  on  the  huge  fabric, 
and  it  will  require  another  generation — perhaps  cen- 
tury— to  complete  the  edifice.  The  old  iron  crane, 
which  has  been  standing  for  several  centuries  on  the 
unfinished  tower,  has  recently  been  put  in  motion  by 
the  King  of  Prussia.  That  ambitious  monarch  may 
hasten  the  work  to  its  final  completion. 

The  body  of  this  magnificent  structure  is  in  the 
shape  of  a  cross.  There  are  four  broad  aisles  with 
rows  of  pillars,  each  row  having  more  than  a  hundred 
columns,  of  which  the  centre  ones  are  thirty  feet- in 
circumference.  One  of  the  most  remarkable  sights 
in  the  cathedral  is  the  shrine  of  the  three  kings,  who 
came  from  the  East  to  Bethlehem  to  bring  presents 


/ 


European  Correspondence.  237 

to  the  infant  Saviour.  Their  bones,  as  the  legend 
says,  were  brought  from  Milan  in  1 170,  and  deposited 
in  a  case  of  silver,  and  placed  in  a  small  marble  chapel 
behind  the  high  altar.  The  skulls  of  the  kings  were 
crowned  with  golden  diadems,  enriched  with  jewels 
and  precious  stones.  During  the  French  revolution, 
Cologne  fell  into  the  hands  of  the  Jacobins.  They 
had  as  little  reverence  for  priest  as  for  king.  Many 
of  the  precious  relics  in  the  shrine  disappeared.  The 
treasures  in  the  silver  box  are  said  to  be  worth  sev- 
eral millions  of  dollars.  I  have  a  shrewd  suspicion  that 
there  is  more  paste  than  diamonds  on  these  crowned 
heads.  Amongst  the  other  objects  of  interest  is  the 
silver  coffin  of  Saint  Engebert,  the  projector  of  the 
cathedral.  There  are  other  fine  monuments,  numer- 
ous painted  windows,  and  curious  tapestry.  For  fifty 
cents  you  can  see  the  bones  of  Saint  Matthew !  I 
presume,  for  an  additional  fifty  cents,  the  bones  of 
each  of  the  apostles  could  be  exhibited,  and  pieces  of 
the  "original  cross,"  on  which  our  Saviour  was  cruci- 
fied. 

Portions  of  many  of  the  finest  churches  in  Europe 
are  converted  into  museums.  As  many  ridiculous 
relics  are  exhibited  here  as  are  to  be  found  at  Bar- 
num's  in  New  York.  These,  however,  have  their  prof- 
itable uses,  and  bring  into  the  church  many  people 
who  are  not  in  the  habit  of  frequenting  such  places ; 
thus  yielding  a  large  revenue.  Apart  from  the  spires, 
paintings  and  statues,  the  churches  on  the  Continent 
have  interested  me  very  much,  and  there  are  few  days 
in  the  week  or  month  that  I  have  not  visited  one  or 


238  European  Correspondence. 

more.  I  have  visited  the  churches  early  and  late,  in 
storm  and  in  sunshine,  but  I  did  not  enter  a  church 
without  finding  pious  worshippers.  Occasionally  I 
would  be  almost  stifled  with  the  smoke  arising  from 
the  incense.  I  cannot  even  now  understand  the  vir- 
tue of  these  burnt  offerings.  I  presume,  however, 
many  who  present  themselves  at  the  altar  need  fumi- 
gating. Among  the  Protestants,  there  are  those  who 
do  not  see  the  necessity  of  immersion  ;  others  cry  out 
against  baptism,  and  there  are  still  others  who  are 
so  uncharitable  as  to  pronounce  "  class  meetings  "  a 
popish  invention.  I  have  a  notion  that  there  are  good 
and  bad  people  to  be  found  in  all  denominations.  A 
great  deal  of  the  world's  religion,  after  all,  is  educa- 
tional ;  hence  the  necessity  of  making  judicious  selec- 
tions of  the  teachers  for  our  children. 

I  next  visited  the  Church  of  Saint  Ursula,  to  see  the 
bones  of  eleven  thousand  virgins  who  were  slain  by 
the  naughty  Huns  because  they  refused  to  become 
mothers.  As  you  enter  the  church,  these  hideous 
relics  meet  the  eye  on  every  side ;  even  the  glass 
pavement  under  your  feet  is  laid  on  bones.  The 
masonry  of  bones  is  built  several  feet  thick  on  the 
walls.  This  ghastly  sight  was  nearly  as  hideous  to 
my  eyes  as  the  Strasburg  mummies.  Just  as  I  entered 
the  church  a  marriage  ceremony  was  taking  place, 
which  was  certainly  a  more  agreeable  sight  than  the 
relics  of  the  unfortunate  virgins.  It  was  the  first  wed- 
ding I  had  attended  in  Germany.  My  patience  was 
quite  exhausted  before  the  priest  pronounced  the 
happy   couple   man    and    wife.      The   ceremony  was 


European  Correspondence.  239 

tedious  and  unnecessarily  prolonged.  My  guide  pro- 
posed to  visit  another  church  which  contained  the 
bones  of  six  thousand  martyrs,  but  I  begged  to  be 
excused,  as  I  had  seen  enough  in  that  line.  I  pre- 
ferred visiting  Farina's  famous  Eau  de  Cologne  manu- 
factory. There  are  thirty  manufacturers  of  Cologne 
water  in  this  city.  Notwithstanding  I  bathed  freely 
in  this  sweet  water,   I   dreamed  nearly  all  night  of 

skulls  and  bones. 

G.  W.  W. 

Cologne,  September,  1866. 


LETTER    TWENTY-FIRST 


Aix-la-  Chape ile — The  Great  Charlemagne — Napoleon's 
March  to  Moscoiv — Leaving  Germany — Summer  attd 
Autumn  in  France,  Switzerland  and  Germany — 
Wages  paid  Women. 

An  hour  from  Cologne  by  the  swift  express  train, 
through  a  beautiful  and  fertile  country,  and  I  find 
myself  at  Aix-la-Chapelle,  a  flourishing  city  of  Prus- 
sia, with  seventy-five  thousand  inhabitants.  I  stopped 
here  to  see  a  New  Orleans  friend,  who  was  spending 
a  few  weeks  at  this  celebrated  watering  place  for  the 
benefit  of  his  health. 

The  great  Charlemagne,  who  established  the  Ger- 
man Empire  a  thousand  years  ago,  was  born  and 
died   in    this    city.     The    Hotel   de   Ville    is    an    im- 


240  European  Correspondence. 

posing  building,  erected  on  the  site  of  the  palace  in 
which  Charlemagne  was  born.  It  contains  some  fine 
paintings  and  numerous  portraits — among  the  oldest 
known — of  Charlemagne,  Napoleon,  Josephine,  and 
Maria  Theresa — the  latter  was  the  mother  of  the 
unfortunate  Marie  Antoinette.  The  Notre  Dame  here 
is  one  of  the  oldest  churches  in  Germany.  It  was 
erected  by  Charlemagne  in  796.  He  designed  it  to 
be  a  burial  place  for  himself,  causing  it  to  be  con- 
structed in  the  form  of  the  Church  of  the  Holy 
Sepulchre  at  Jerusalem.  The  tomb  in  which  once 
reposed  the  mortal  remains  of  the  great  warrior,  is 
marked  by  a  large  marble  slab,  inscribed  with  the 
words  "  Carlo  Magno."  When  the  tomb  was  opened 
in  the  twelfth  century,  the  body  of  Charlemagne  was 
found  seated  on  his  throne  as  one  alive,  clothed  in 
the  imperial  robes,  bearing  the  sceptre  in  his  hand, 
and  on  his  knees  a  copy  of  the  gospels ;  on  his  flesh- 
less  brow  was  the  crown,  which  has  ever  since  been 
used  in  the  coronation  ceremonies  of  succeeding  Em- 
perors of  Germany. 

Charlemagne  conquered  the  barbarous  natives,  and 
extended  his  empire  over  the  whole  of  France,  Ger- 
many, Italy,  and  the  north  of  Spain.  It  is  said  he  could 
not  read  and  write  his  name,  but  "  signed  the  treaties 
with  the  hilt  of  his  sword,  and  enforced  them  with 
its  point."  After  he  became  a  conqueror  he  learned 
to  read,  and  founded  the  University  of  Paris,  the  first 
in  Europe.  This  great  captain  had  a  mind  and  a  will 
that  commanded  the  respect  and  admiration  of  the 
world.     Charlemagne  was    more    fortunate   than  the 


Europe  an  Correspondence.  241 

ambitious  Napoleon,  for  he  retained  the  kingdoms  he 
conquered  to  the  day  of  his  death,  and  established 
his  son,  Louis,  over  his  mighty  empire;  but  this  youth 
did  not  possess  the  mind  and  energy  of  his  illustrious 
father.  He  was  ill-qualified  to  govern  in  the  stern 
age  in  which  he  lived.  The  empire,  which  had  cost 
the  lives  of  so  many  thousands  to  establish,  was  soon 
divided  and  sub-divided,  and  became  the  scene  of  war, 
desolation  and  anarchy.  The  bones  of  this  famous 
warrior,  it  is  said,,  were  recently  discovered  in  a  chest, 
hid  in  a  dark  closet !  and  for  the  paltry  sum  of  fifty 
cents,  these  relics  are  to  be  seen,  with  the  addition  of 
a  lock  of  the  Virgin's  hair,  a  piece  of  the  true  Cross, 
the  leather  girdle  of  Christ,  a  nail  of  the  Cross,  the 
sponge  which  was  filled  with  vinegar,  the  arm  of 
Simeon  on  which  he  bore  the  infant  Saviour,  the  bones 
of  Stephen,  Manna  from  the  wilderness,  and  Aaron's 
rod !  All  of  these,  and  many  more  wonderful  relics, 
are  to  be  seen  for  two  francs. 

I  was  told  if  I  could  remain  here  until  July,  1867, 
I  should  then  have  an  opportunity  of  seeing  relics 
presented  to  Charlemagne  by  the  Patriarch  of  Jeru- 
salem. They  are  deposited  in  a  rich  shrine  of  silver, 
and  are  said  to  consist  of  the  robe  worn  by  the  Vir- 
gin, and  numerous  other  articles  of  clothing,  crosses, 
gems,  jewelry  and  plate.  These  "  Grandes  Reliques" 
are  shown  only  once  in  seven  years.  It  is  said,  in 
i860  more  than  five  hundred  thousand  persons,  chiefly 
peasants,  resorted  to  the  exhibition.  Barnum's  Mu- 
seum is  eclipsed  by  some  of  the  museums  to  be  found 
in  the  churches  of  this  Old  World,  and  many  of  the 
31 


242  European  Correspondence. 

relics  are  about  as  genuine  as  the  gutta-percha  mer- 
maid that  Barnum  tried  to  make  the  Charlestonians 
believe  was  a  true  feminine  of  the  briny  deep.  But 
it  was  there  that  the  humbug  was  first  exposed,  and 
denounced  by  savants  Bachman  antl  Geddings.  Bar- 
num actually  consulted  a  Charleston  lawyer,  with  the 
view  to  an  action  of  damages  against  them ;  but  he 
thought  better  of  it  in  season. 

Aix-la-Chapelle  has  been  the  scene  of  many  a  hard 
fought  battle.  In  1792  it  was  taken  by  the  French, 
retaken  by  the  Austrians  in  1793,  and  again  captured 
by  the  French  in  1794,  and  held  until  Napoleon's 
unfortunate  march  to  Moscow  in  the  winter  of  18 12. 
The  allied  powers  took  possession  of  the  city  in  18 14, 
and  it  was  here  they  held  a  great  convention  to  adjust 
the  indemnities  to  be  paid  by  France  for  the  aggres- 
sions of  the  Emperor  Napoleon  the  First.  France 
was  compelled  to  pay  to  foreign  powers  the  sum  of 
seven  hundred  and  fifty  millions  of  francs,  divided 
among  the  nations  as  follows  : 

Francs.        '  Francs. 

Prussia 210,000,000  |  Baden 7,000,000 

England 125,000,000  |  Saxony  7,000,000 

Austria 113,000,000  |  Hesse  Cassel 5,000,000 

Russia 100,000,000  I  Hanover 5,000,000 

Holland 60,000,000  |  Hesse  Darmstadt  4,000,000 

Bavaria 41,000,000  I  Denmark 2,500,000 

Spain 12,500,000  I  Portugal 2,000,000 

Sardinia 10,000,000  I  Mecklenburg  1,700,000 

Wurtemberg 8,600,000  | 

The  rest  of  the  requisition  money  was  distributed 
among  twenty  other  small  kingdoms  that  had  been 
overrun  by  the  French.  It  will  be  seen  that  Prussia 
got  the  lion's  share.     It  was  not  a  difficult  matter  for 


European  Correspondence.  243 

the  allied  powers  to  compel  the  French  to  pay 
750,000,000  francs  ;  but  no  human  power  on  earth 
could  restore  the  millions  of  immortal  beings  who 
perished  under  the  iron  tread  of  the  man  who  proved 
to  be  the  great  disturber  of  peace  and  the  scourge  of 
Europe.  Napoleon's  equal  as  a  military  chieftain  is 
yet  to  be  born ;  but  he  won  his  glory  by  deluging 
Europe  in  blood  and  tears.  Nearly  all  the  great 
men — so-called — of  ancient  and  modern  times  were 
military  heroes.  So  long  as  military  genius  is  wor- 
shipped, the  land  will  be  cursed  with  wars. 

In  education,  and  in  the  science  of  war,  the  Germans 
are  doubtless  ahead  of  any  nation  in  Europe.  In 
Prussia  the  system  of.education  is  said  to  be  the  most 
perfect  in  existence.  Munich  patronizes  the  fine  arts, 
Berlin  learning.  A  large  number  of  distinguished 
literary  men  receive  salaries  from  the  Government  of 
Prussia,  and  are  pensioned  when  age  or  infirmity 
compels  them  to  withdraw  from  active  labor.  In 
Prussia  every  man  is  compelled  to  enter  the  army  at 
twenty-one,  and  remain  a  soldier  for  three  years. 
This  system  makes  a  nation  of  trained  soldiers ;  but 
this  military  life  must  have  a  baneful  effect  upon  the 
youth  of  the  country,  and  especially  upon  all  domestic 
culture. 

In  a  few  hours  I  shall  leave  Germany — dear  old 
Germany.  I  have  seen  just  enough  of  its  beautiful 
cities  and  towns ;  its  lofty  mountains  ;  its  fertile  and 
finely  cultivated  valleys  ;  its  vine-clad  hills  and  pic- 
turesque rivers ;  its  palaces,  museums,  statues  and 
galleries  of  paintings  ;  its  splendidly  trained  armies  of 


244  European  Correspondence. 

a  million  and  a  half  of  men  ;  its  fine  system  of  educa- 
tion, agriculture  and  railways — I  say  I  have  seen  just 
enough  to  sharpen  my  appetite  for  further  travel, 
study  and  investigation  of  this  grand  old  country,  so 
full  of  thrilling  historical  associations.  My  time, 
however,  is  limited,  and  I  have  yet  to  look  upon  some 
of  the  hundred  wonders  of  the  world  before  I  return 
to  America. 

The  summer  and  autumn  have  been  unusually  wet 
in  France,  Switzerland  and  Germany,  materially  injur- 
ing the  crops  of  grain  and  grapes.  In  many  places  I 
saw  wheat,  oats,  barley  and  rye  rotting  in  the  fields. 
The  swollen  mountain  torrents  came  rushing  down, 
overflowing  the  banks  and  washing  away  the  produce 
of  the  valleys.  The  meadows,  however,  are  green, 
and  yield  fine  crops  of  grass  for  the  numerous  flocks 
of  sheep  and  herds  of  cattle.  The  harvests  of  grain 
on  the  Continent  must  necessarily  be  deficient,  in 
consequence  of  the  extremely  wet  summer  and  the 
large  number  of  men  who  were  engaged  in  the  war 
between  Austria  and  Prussia.  Until  the  nations  in 
Europe  "beat  their  swords  into  ploughshares  and 
their  spears  into  reap-hooks,"  the  laborious  cultivation 
of  the  soil  will  necessarily  devolve  upon  the  women 
and  children.  The  great  masses  of  the  people  through 
the  country  which  I  have  travelled  are  in  moderate 
circumstances,  many  of  them  very  poor,  and  have  no 
means  of  gaining  a  comfortable  subsistence  but  by 
their  daily  toil.  The  youth  are  taught  habits  of  indus- 
try and  frugality.  They  grow  up  to  be  strong,  athletic 
men  and  women,  with  well  developed   muscles,   fully 


European  Correspondence.  245 

prepared  for  the  hardships  of  life.  The  manual  labor 
and  out-door  exposure,  of  course,  takes  off  some  of 
the  polish  of  Mother  Eve's  daughters.  They,  how- 
ever, make  excellent  housewives. 

The  wages  paid  the  women  for  a  hard  year's  work 
on  the  farm  are  about  twenty  dollars.  I  tell  them 
they  can  do  better  by  emigrating  to  the  Cotton  States 
of  the  South.  They,  however,  prefer  the  West,  which 
is  on  their  part  a  great  mistake.  It  is  true  they  have 
rich  land  in  the  West,  and  they  can  make  a  bountiful 
supply  of  provision,  but  the  day  is  not  far  distant 
when  a  year's  labor  in  the  Western  States  will  not 
net  thirty  dollars.  There  will  be  too  much  competi- 
tion in  the  production  of  food,  while  the  portions  of 
the  globe  adapted  to  the  culture  of  cotton  and  rice 
are  limited — too  limited  for  the  increasing  popula- 
tion of  the  world.  Now  that  the  system  of  labor  is 
changed  in  the  late  slave  States,  the  people  should 
adapt  themselves  to  the  new  state  of  things.  The 
large  estates  should  be  divided  into  small  farms,  and 
immigration  from  all  quarters  encouraged.  I  am 
satisfied  from  what  I  have  seen,  that,  in  the  strictly 
cotton,  sugar,  and  rice  sections  of  the  South,  there  is 
no  labor  equal  to  that  of  the  descendants  of  Ham. 
The  negroes  should  be  encouraged  to  remain  with  us; 
it  is  for  their  interest  and  for  our  interest  that  they 
should  do  so.  There  is  not  half  the  trouble  in  utiliz- 
ing the  colored  as  the  white  labor.  Kind  treatment, 
with  proper  care  and  oversight,  is  what  they  require 
and  should  have.  I  was  never  so  thoroughly  con- 
vinced as  I  am  now,  that  we  have  the  best  country  in 


246  European  Correspondence. 

the  world.  Let  our  people  awake  universally  from 
that  Rip  Van  Winkle  sleep,  which  has  fettered  but 
too  many  of  them  from  youth  to  age ;  be  true  to 
themselves,  and  the  beautiful  and  fruitful  empire  which 
the  bounty  of  God  has  given  into  their  hands.  Let 
them  substitute  labor  for  political  agitation,  and  find 
their  better  pleasure  and  profit  in  making  potatoes 
than  Presidents.  This  done,  and  the  South  will  once 
more  become  a  free,  prosperous,  and  happy  nation. 

G.  W.  W. 
Aix-la-Chapelle,  Germany,  September,  1866. 


LETTER    TWENTY-SECOND. 


Brussels — Infidelity    of  Napoleon — City   of  Moscow — 
Immense  Sacrifice  of  Life. 

Brussels  is  the  capital  of  Belgium,  and  is  in  the 
centre  of  the  most  highly  cultivated  country  in  Eu- 
rope. It  has  a  thriving  population  of  one  hundred 
and  eighty  thousand.  Brussels  is  one  of  the  finest 
cities  on  the  Continent;  the  houses  are  substantially 
built  of  stone ;  the  broad,  clean  streets  in  the  upper 
part  of  the  city  are  magnificent.  The  grand  Park  is 
the  admiration  of  every  traveller — it  is  laid  out  into 
a  kind  of  public  garden,  intersected  by  beautiful  walks, 
bordered  with  trees,  and  ornamented  with  handsome 
statues  of  white  marble,  and  filled  with  numerous  foun- 
tains, which  are  quite  refreshing  of  a  hot  summer  day. 


European  Correspondence.  247 

Brussels  is  celebrated  for  its  world-renowned  car- 
pets, and  its  manufactures  of  tapestry  and  lace.  Sev- 
eral thousand  female  operatives  are  employed  in  the 
manufacture  of  lace — the  most  of  this  delicate  work 
being  done  by  the  needle,  which  is  very  trying  to 
the  eyes.  In  a  public  square  are  the  old  Spanish 
palaces,  with  gorgeous  tropical  adornments  and 
Gobelin  tapestry.  These  palaces  were  occupied  by 
the  Spanish  Governors,  when  Belgium  was  under 
Spanish  rule.  The  museum  in  the  halls  of  the 
palace  contains  some  fine  pictures,  statues,  etc.  The 
Museum  of  Natural  History  is  quite  interesting  and 
very  complete. 

An  hour's  ride  in  an  open  carriage  from  Brussels, 
and  I  find  myself  at  Waterloo,  celebrated  as  the  scene 
of  the  great  battle  of  18th  June,  181 5,  which  com- 
pleted the  downfall  of  Napoleon.  An  uncontrollable 
ambition  took  possession  of  Napoleon  in  his  youthful 
military  career.  It  would  seem  he  had  won  for  him- 
self and  his  empire  a  name  and  reputation  that  would 
have  satisfied  an  Alexander  or  a  Caesar;  but  not  so. 
Josephine — who  had  ever  been  his  guardian  angel, 
and  to  whom  it  is  said  he  was  devotedly  attached — 
failed  to  furnish  him  with  an  heir  for  his  mighty 
empire.  In  an  evil  hour  Napoleon  permitted  ambi- 
tion to  override  love,  humanity  and  justice.  The 
true  and  faithful  Josephine  was  abandoned,  and 
Napoleon  demanded  in  marriage  the  hand  of  Maria 
Louisa,  a  young  Austrian  girl,  not  out  of  her  teens, 
who  was  the  daughter  of  Emperor  Francis,  of 
Austria. 


248  European  Correspondence. 

This  unwarrantable  infidelity  of  Napoleon  found  no 
favor,  not  even  in  the  eyes  of  the  French  nation ;  they 
felt  that  the  warm-hearted  Josephine  was  cruelly 
wronged  by  one  who  had  sworn  to  be  her  protector, 
and  that  the  French  had  gained  nothing  by  the 
alliance  with  the  proud  race  of  Hapsburg.  From  the 
date  of  Napoleon's  desertion  of  Josephine,  fate  turned 
against  him,  and  finally  revenged  Josephine.  Now 
that  he  was  allied  by  marriage  with  the  strong  power 
of  Austria,  his  ambition  knew  no  bounds.  He  de- 
cided to  make  war  upon  the  powerful  Empire  of 
Russia. 

In  the  summer  of  18 12,  Napoleon  placed  himself  at 
the  head  of  the  finest  army  ever  raised  in  France. 
Nearly  half  a  million  of  men  marched  out  from  among 
the  sunny  vine-clad  hills  of  France,  destined  for  the 
City  of  Moscow.  Many  of  his  wisest  military  coun- 
sellors warned  him  against  an  attempt  to  invade 
the  ancient  capital  of  Russia  in  the  winter  months. 
"  Peace,"  he  exclaimed,  "  awaits  us  beneath  the  walls 
of  Moscow."  Fatal  delusion  !  This  immense  army 
was  to  be  marched  twenty-five  hundred  miles,  one 
thousand  of  which  was  through  the  barren  plains  of 
Russia.  This  sandy  desert  furnishes  food  for  neither 
man  nor  beast.  In  the  month  of  September  a  terrible 
battle  was  fought.  The  French  gained  a  partial  vic- 
tory at  the  cost  of  thirty-two  thousand  men.  The 
Russians  lost  fifty  thousand.  The  Russians  retired 
in  good  order,  pursued  by  the  victorious  and  confi- 
dent French.  The  Russian  commander  decided  not 
to  hazard  his  army  in  the  defence  of  Moscow.     He 


European  Correspondence.  249 

well  knew  that  the  French  were  advancing  to  their 
own  destruction,  as  the  rigors  of  a  Russian  winter 
were  near  at  hand,  when  it  would  be  impossible  to 
subsist  such  an  army  in  the  heart  of  a  hostile  country. 
Moscow  was  at  that  time  one  of  the  richest  and 
largest  cities  in  Europe,  being  twenty  miles  in  circum- 
ference. 

It  was  in  the  autumn  of  18 12  that  Napoleon  entered 
the  ancient  city  of  the  Czars.  "  Moscow  !  Moscow!" 
shouted  the  excited  and  exultant  soldiers.  They 
vainly  thought  their  sufferings  at  an  end,  as  they 
quartered  themselves  in  the  gorgeous  palaces,  splen- 
didly furnished  with  everything  requisite  to  make  a 
weary  soldier  comfortable.  Napoleon  and  staff  estab- 
lished themselves  in  the  palace  of  the  Kremlin,  which 
was  the  imperial  seat  of  the  ancient  Russian  mon- 
archs.  When  the  emperor  discovered  that  the  inhab- 
itants had  deserted  their  homes,  he  had  forebodings  of 
evil.  Soldiers  were  stationed  in  all  portions  of  the 
city  to  guard  against  fire  or  sudden  surprise.  The 
Emperor  Alexander  had  turned  loose  fifteen  thousand 
desperadoes  from  the  prisons,  who  were  stealthily 
preparing  to  convert  the  splendid  metropolis  into  an 
infernal  machine,  for  the  destruction  of  the  invading 
army.  Immense  magazines  of  powder,  shells,  and 
other  destructive  engines  of  war,  were  placed  under 
the  palace  occupied  by  Napoleon,  and  scattered 
beneath  the  houses  which  were  crowded  with  the 
French  soldiers.  The  water  pipes  were  cut,  fountains 
and  fire  engines  destroyed  ;  nothing  was  left  undone 
to  render  the  destruction  of  the  citv  complete  ;  even 
32 


250  European  Correspondence. 

the  elements  came  to  the  aid  of  the  demons  in  their 
work  of  desolation,  for  about  night  an  equinoctial 
gale  swept  over  the  city.  A  protracted  drouth  had 
prepared  the  wooden  houses  for  the  torch.  At  mid- 
night Napoleon  threw  himself  exhausted  on  his  bed, 
but  he  was  ill  at  ease ;  his  anxieties  were  enforced 
and  made  active  by  ominous  signs,  which,  as  a  soldier 
and  statesman,  he  could  not  mistake.  His  conscience 
was  torturing  him  ;  he  had  deeply  wronged  -the  bosom 
companion  of  his  youth.  The  cry  of  "  fire  "  resound- 
ed through  the  streets  ;  the  heavens  were  illuminated 
by  the  volumes  of  flames  as  they  burst  forth  simul- 
taneously in  various  sections  of  the  city. 

Tremendous  explosions  of  shells  and  magazines  of 
powder  shook  the  doomed  city  like  an  earthquake. 
The  Imperial  Guard  of  twenty  thousand  men  were 
ordered  out.  These  brave  soldiers  who  were  never 
known  to  falter,  could  not  stand  before  the  terrible  fiery 
foe.  The  French  soldiers  shot,  bayoneted,  and  threw 
the  incendiaries  into  the  burning  lake  of  fire,  but  it  did 
not  stop  them  in  their  work  of  destruction.  Thou- 
sands of  men,  women  and  children  were  buried  be- 
neath the  falling  houses  and  timbers  that  had  been 
hurled  into  the  air.  Napoleon  found  the  palace  in 
which  he  was  quartered  surrounded  by  flames,  and 
came  near  being  swallowed  in  the  roaring  sea  of  fire. 
Such  an  event  would  have  saved  him  years  of  pain 
and  anguish.  Perhaps  his  life  was  spared  that  he 
might  have  time  to  repent  in  sorrow  of  his  cruel  treat- 
ment of  Josephine.  The  fire  kindled  by  the  fiends  in 
all  portions  of  the  city,  was  swept  for  three  days  by 


European  Coirespondence.  25  1 

a  terrible  gale,  until  Moscow,  twenty  miles  in  circum- 
ference, was  reduced  to  a  heap  of  ruins.  The  burning 
of  Moscow  saved  the  Russian  Empire,  and  banished 
Napoleon  to  the  Island  of  Elba. 

During  the  Russian  campaign  the  French  lost  three 
hundred  and  fifty  thousand  brave  soldiers.  Nearly 
one-half  perished  from  cold,  hunger  and  fatigue,  in 
their  disastrous  retreat  after  the  destruction  of  Mos- 
cow. The  loss  of  the  Russians,  including  those  who 
perished  for  the  want  of  food  and  shelter,  was  greater 
than  that  of  the  French.  Seven  hundred  thousand 
lives  sacrificed  in  a  six  months'  campaign !  and  this 
to  gratify  the  ambition  of  one  miserable  mortal  man. 
Such  is  war !  It  involves  in  its  mad  career  every 
conceivable  crime,  poisoning  the  minds  and  morals  of 
a  nation,  and  reducing  the  people  to  want,  sorrow 
and  misery.  And  yet  there  are  ministers  of  the 
Gospel  who  defend  the  shedding  of  a  brother's  blood, 
and  appeal  to  the  Bible  to  sustain  them  in  their  argu- 
ments. 

In  my  humble  opinion,  war  is  the  work  of  the 
devil;  God  may  permit  it,  but  he  does  not  justify 
it.  When  Cain  made  war  upon  Abel,  God  said  unto 
him  :  "  And  now  art  thou  cursed  from  the  earth  which 
hath  opened  her  mouth  to  receive  thy  brother's  blood 
from  thy  hand.  When  thou  tillest  the  ground  it  shall 
not  henceforth  yield  unto  thee  her  strength  ;  a  fugitive 
and  a  vagabond  shall  thou  be  on  earth."  God  showed 
his  displeasure  by  cursing  the  ground  Cain  was  to 
till,  and  making  him  a  fugitive  and  a  vagabond.  So 
mote  it  be  with  all  the  Cains,  who,  in  their  insane 


252  European  Correspondence. 

lusts  and  rages,  deface  the  earth,  defile  humanity,  and 
strew  the  fields  with  the  carcasses  of  their  fellow- 
men. 

G.  W.  W. 
Brussels ;  Belgium,  1866. 


LETTER    TWENTY-THIRD. 


Disastrous  Campaign — Abdication  of  Napoleon — His 
Escape  from  Elba — Marshal  Ney — General  Carom- 
bonne — Humiliation  and  Suffering  of  Napoleon. 

After  Napoleon's  disastrous  Russian  campaign,  in 
which  he  sacrificed  the  finest  army  ever  raised  in 
France,  a  sixth  and  grand  coalition  was  formed,  with 
the  determination  of  crushing  the  man  who  had  made 
himself  a  terror  and  disturber  of  the  peace  of  Europe. 
The  allies  of  France,  whose  friendship  had  been 
obtained  by  conquest,  and  held  at  the  point  of  the 
bayonet,  were  glad  of  an  opportunity  of  throwing  off 
the  French  yoke,  and  readily  united  with  the  allies  in 
making  war  upon  Napoleon.  Even  the  great  Empe- 
ror of  Austria,  on  whom  Napoleon  relied  as  his 
strongest  and  surest  ally,  in  consequence  of  his  mar- 
riage to  Maria  Louisa,  joined  the  coalition.  In  a 
short  time  the  allies  had  in  the  field  more  than  a  mil- 
lion of  men,  and  were  marching  on  the  French 
metropolis    from    all    quarters.      Napoleon    exerted 


European  Correspondence.  253 

almost  superhuman  power  in  the  defence  of  his  cher- 
ished capital,  but  he  was  finally  crushed  by  over- 
whelming numbers.  On  the  31st  March,  18 14,  the 
Emperor  Alexander  of  Russia  and  the  King  of  Prus- 
sia entered  Paris  in  triumph.  Two  hundred  and  fifty 
thousand  men  —  infantry,  cavalry  and  artillery — 
marched  thirty  abreast  through  the  most  frequented 
thoroughfares  of  the  city.  The  crowd  of  impulsive 
Frenchmen,  who  so  recently  shouted  "  Vive  l'Empe- 
reur  Napoleon,"  now  shouted  for  Emperor  Alexander 
and  King  of  Prussia,  and  "  Vive  Louis  XVIII." 

On  the  nth  April,  1814,  Napoleon  very  reluctantly 
signed  the  Act  of  Abdication,  renouncing  for  himself 
and  his  family  the  thrones  of  France  and  Italy.  Louis 
XVIII,  who  had  been  residing  in  England,  was  recalled 
and  declared  king.  Thus  were  the  old  Bourbons 
again  restored  to  power,  and  Napoleon  banished  to 
Elba,  a  small  island  in  the  Mediterranean  Sea. 

What  a  spectacle  !  Behold  this  man  of  a  giant 
intellect,  who  so  recently  ruled  the  powerful  nations 
of  Europe  with  an  iron  rod,  now  consigned,  in  dis- 
grace, to  a  barren  island  not  ten  miles  square.  Napo- 
leon deserved  this  severe  punishment  for  his  wrongs 
to  Josephine  alone.  How  much  more  he  merited  of 
punishment  for  his  thousand  other  crimes  need  not  be 
estimated  here. 

The  allied  sovereigns  who  had  dethroned  Napoleon 
were  assembled  at  Vienna,  arranging  for  a  glorious 
peace,  and  to  settle  the  affairs  of  Europe.  Vienna 
became  the  scene  of  gaiety  and  brilliant  fetes.  It 
was  at  one  of  these  splendid  entertainments  that  the 


254.  European  Correspondence. 

astounding  intelligence  was  received  that  Napoleon 
had  escaped  from  Elba,  and  effected  a  landing  in 
France. 

The  announcement  led  almost  instantly  to  a  seventh 
coalition  of  the  great  powers  to  destroy  the  man  they 
regarded  as  the  enemy  of  mankind.  He  was  thought 
a  fit  subject  for  public  vengeance.  Napoleon  marched 
from  the  south  of  France  to  Paris  in  twenty  days, 
without  opposition.  Marshal  Ney,  who  was  sent  to 
intercept  him,  promised  to  "  bring  back  to  Paris  the 
dangerous  Corsican  in  an  iron  cage."  The  sight  of 
his  old  companion  in  arms  was  too  much  for  old  Ney; 
he  no  longer  remembered  his  oaths  and  promises  to 
Louis  XVIII,  but  joined  Napoleon,  and  marched 
with  him  in  triumph  to  the  Tuileries,  where  they 
arrived  on  the  20th  of  March,  1815,  ten  months  from 
the  date  of  his  banishment. 

On  the  night  of  the  16th  of  June,  Wellington  was 
attending  a  brilliant  ball,  given  by  the  Duchess  of 
Richmond  at  Brussels;  a  courier  entered  and  informed 
the  British  General  that  Napoleon,  with  his  army,  was 
within  ten  miles  of  Brussels  !  It  is  said  that  the  Iron 
Duke  turned  pale,  and  instantly  left,  accompanied  by 
his  officers,  to  prepare  for  the  great  conflict.  The 
bells  were  rang,  war  trumpets  sounded,  drums  beat  to 
arms.  In  an  hour  the  immense  English  army  was  on 
its  march.  Wellington  halted  on  the  spacious  field  of 
Waterloo.  In  this  strong  position  he  carefully  select- 
ed his  ground,  stationed  his  troops,  and  dispatched 
a  messenger  for  Blucher,  who  had  under  his  command 
sixty-five  thousand  splendid  Prussian  soldiers. 


European  Correspondence.  255 

No  spot  in  Europe  has  interested  me  more  than  the 
world-renowned  battle-field  of  Waterloo.  It  was  here, 
then,  half  a  century  ago,  that  the  most  important  bat- 
tle recorded  in  history  was  fought.  My  guide  pointed 
out  the  position  selected  by  the  great  English  chief- 
tain, which  he  so  heroically  defended  against  the  des- 
perate assaults  of  the  French ;  also,  the  old  oak  tree 
under  which  Napoleon  assembled  his  officers  to  give 
them  his  final  orders.  "  The  army  of  the  enemy," 
said  he,  "  outnumbers  us  one-fourth  ;  there  are,  how- 
ever, ninety  chances  in  our  favor  to  ten  against  us." 

It  was  a  bright  sunny  morning  in  June,  the  day 
appointed  for  rest ;  silence  reigned  on  the  field,  but 
every  one  knew  that  in  a  few  hours  the  fierce  battle 
would  be  raging.  The  surgeons  had  established  their 
hospitals  in  the  rear,  and  stood  with  bandages,  splin- 
ters, knives  and  saws,  ready  to  perform  their  work  of 
equal  pain  and  mercy.  At  10  o'clock  the  dreadful 
struggle  commenced.  Wellington  felt  that  the  honor 
of  old  England  was  resting  on  his  broad  shoulders, 
and  Napoleon  knew  that  his  fate,  and  that  of  his 
empire,  depended  on  the  result  of  this  day's  battle. 
The  brave  French  soldiers  made  charge  after  charge, 
shouting,  "  Vive  I ' Emperenr /"  They  were  pressing 
heavily  upon  the  English  lines.  Wellington  stood 
anxiously  looking  for  the  Prussians  under  Blucher. 
He  exclaimed,  "Would  to  Heaven  Blucher  or  night 
would  come ! "  One  whole  day  of  slaughter  had 
passed,  and  the  battle  hung,  as  it  were,  in  the 
balance.  Napoleon  felt  that  victory  was  near  at 
hand,  and  was  about  making  a  final  charge  with  the 


256..  European  Correspondence. 

Old  Guard,  which,  it  was  said,  never  charged  in  vain. 
At  this  critical  moment  heavy  cannonading  was  heard, 
and  an  army  was  seen  in  the  distance  advancing 
rapidly  to  the  scene  of  action.  Napoleon  thought  it 
was  Marshal  Grouchy,  and  was  giving  orders  for  a 
simultaneous  attack  by  his  whole  force.  Alas,  for 
him  !  it  was  not  Grouchy,  but  Bulow  and  Blucher 
with  sixty  thousand  fresh  troops. 

A  shout  of  exultation  ran  through  the  allied  lines. 
Napoleon  saw  that  all  was  lost  unless  he  could  break 
the  English  lines  before  the  union  of  the  allied  armies, 
which  had  stood  like  a  stone  wall  against  the  dread- 
ful assaults  of  the  French.  He  now  ordered  up  his 
reserve  guard,  which  had  never  failed  him,  into  battle. 
As  these  world-renowned  old  soldiers,  under  Marshal 
Ney,  defiant  of  death,  pressed  on,  piercing  the  British 
lines,  it  is  said  both  armies  gazed  with  awe  upon  the 
scene.  Marshal  Ney,  in  a  few  moments,  had  six  horses 
shot  from  under  him.  With  sabre  in  hand,  he  marched 
on  foot,  leading  his  men  into  the  very  jaws  of  death. 
Blucher,  with  his  legions  of  infantry,  cavalry  and  artil- 
lery, like  an  avalanche,  swept  over  this  little  band  of 
brave  men,  until,  almost  to  a  man,  they  were  welter- 
ing in  blood.  General  Cambronne,  who  was  bleeding 
from  a  dozen  wounds,  was  surrounded  by  a  small 
remnant  of  his  men.  A  flag  of  truce  was  sent  de- 
manding a  capitulation;  Cambronne  replied:  "The 
Guard  dies,  but  never  surrenders  !"  Thus  heroically 
perished  the  Imperial  Guard,  and  Napoleon's  star  set 
to  rise  no  more.  Napoleon  escaped  to  Paris,  carrying 
the  tidings  of  the  terrible  catastrophe  at  Waterloo, 


European  Correspondence.  257 

which  threw  the  city  into  confusion  and  despair.  See- 
ing that  all  was  lost,  Napoleon  abdicated  in  favor  of 
his  son,  and  attempted  to  escape  to  America  ;  but 
this  was  impossible,  as  the  French  coast  was  block- 
aded from  Brest  to  Bayonne.  He  finally  determined 
to  throw  himself  upon  the  hospitality  of  the  British 
nation,  claiming  the  protection  of  their  court.  The 
English,  having  the  French  lion  in  their  possession, 
determined  to  place  him  where  he  could  do  no  more 
mischief.  The  Government  sent  him  a  prisoner,  for 
life,  to  St.  Helena,  a  small  island  in  the  Atlantic 
Ocean,  between  the  Continents  of  Africa  and  South 
America. 

Six  years  of  humiliation,  suffering  and  anguish, 
broke  the  heart  of  the  greatest  military  chieftain  that 
ever  lived.  Napoleon  was  not  only  a  great  military 
hero,  but  he  was  also  a  brilliant  statesman. 

Let  us  but  cast  our  eyes  over  the  pages  of  history, 
and  we  find  that  Ambition  is  the  rock  on  which  most 
of  the  great  military  heroes  perish.  Alexander,  after 
having  climbed  the  Alpine  heights  of  ambition,  looked 
down  upon  the  conquered  nations,  and  wept  because 
there  was  not  another  world  to  conquer.  He  died 
among  strangers  in  a  miserable  debauch.  Hannibal 
crossed  the  ice-clad  Alps  and  put  to  flight  the  armies 
of  the  mistress  of  the  world.  After  having  stained 
his  hands  in  the  blood  of  his  fellow-creatures,  he  put 
an  end  to  his  miserable  existence  by  committing 
suicide.  Caesar,  after  conquering  a  thousand  cities, 
and  murdering  a  million  of  his  foes,  was  assassinated 
by  his  friends.  Bonaparte,  who  had  filled  the  earth 
33 


258  European  Correspondence. 

with  the  terror  of  his  name,  became  a  lonely  exile. 
Such  was  the  wretched  fate  of  four  of  the  greatest 
military  men  in  ancient  or  modern  times.  These 
men  lived  only  to  make  earth  a  vale  of  tears.  They 
were  great  men  in  the  world's  acceptation,  but  their 
greatness  consisted  only  in  their  great  capacity  for 
evil,  and  the  unscrupulous  readiness  with  which  they 
did  the  work  of  Moloch. 

G.  W.  W. 
Waterloo,  Belgium,   1866. 


LETTER   TWENTY-FOURTH. 


Return  to  Paris — Picture  Galleries  of  the  Louvre — 
Place  de  la  Concorde — Arc  he  Trioniphe — Garden  of 
Plants — Hotel  de  Cluny —  Government  Porcelain 
Establishment. 

In  Paris  again  !  Yes,  gentle  reader,  this  maelstrom 
of  Europe  has  once  more  drawn  me  into  its  vortex. 
After  a  tour  of  many  thousand  miles  over  the  Conti- 
nent, I  have  come  to  the  conclusion  that  there  is  but 
one  Paris.  I  must  not  forget,  however,  in  the  excite- 
ment and  attractions  of  this  grand  city,  that  I  have 
anxious  friends  awaiting  my  return  to  the  New  World. 
I  know  they  will  excuse  me  for  once  more  reviewing 
with  renewed  interest,  and  more  understandingly,  the 
thousand  and  one  objects  of  interest  to  be  found  here. 


European  Correspondence.  259 

One  of  the  seven  wonders  of  the  world  is  the 
museum  of  the  Louvre  of  Paris.  I  have  already- 
spent  many  days  in  wandering  through  gallery  after 
gallery,  my  eyes  feasting  on  the  exquisite  works  of 
celebrated  artists  of  all  ages  and  nations.  The  huge 
collection  comprising  the  museum  would  require 
almost  a  lifetime  of  study.  The  "  Grand  Gallery  " 
unites  the  Louvre  with  the  Palace  of  the  Tuileries  by 
a  succession  of  galleries  two  thousand  feet  in  length . 
The  long  walls  are  covered  with  rare  paintings,  and 
the  arched  ceilings  are  beautifully  painted  in  fresco  e. 
Among  the  great  masters,  next  to  Raphael,  Rubens 
is  my  favorite.  The  "  Conception,"  by  Murillo,  is  one 
of  the  gems  of  the  gallery.  The  Virgin  is  repre- 
sented ascending  with  clasped  hands  to  heaven ;  the 
crescent  moon  is  at  her  feet,  while  the  air  around  is 
filled  with  angel-children.  Quite  a  number  of  large 
rooms  are  devoted  entirely  to  the  works  of  French 
masters.  Artists  are  here  from  all  sections  taking 
copies  of  the  best  pictures.  In  looking  through  the 
long  rooms  of  sculpture,  representing  as  they  do  arts 
in  the  ancient,  middle  and  modern  ages,  one  is  led  to 
believe  that  the  ancients  were  quite  as  skilled  in  arts 
and  science  as  are  the  people  of  the  present  day. 

The  Louvre  was  originally  a  kingly  residence,  but 
is  now  devoted  to  the  royal  museum  of  paintings, 
sculpture,  and  the  like,  forming,  as  it  does,  the  most 
extensive  collection  of  fine  arts  in  the  world.  These 
galleries  were  enriched  by  the  conquests  of  Napoleon. 
Twenty  large  rooms  on  the  ground  floor  are  filled 
with  sculpture — many  of  the  best  pieces  once  embel- 


260  European  Correspondence. 

lished  ancient  Rome,  but  were  transferred  to  Paris  by 
the  conquering  armies  of  France.  A  stranger  wanders 
through  the  galleries  so  profusely  filled  with  gems  of 
art.  At  first,  his  mind  becomes  bewildered,  and  it 
is  only  after  repeated  visits  that  he  is  fully  able  to 
comprehend  and  appreciate  the  rich  treasures  so  boun- 
tifully spread  around  him.  I  do  not  believe  there  is 
another  city  on  the  globe  where  the  people  are  so 
joyous  and  gay  as  are  the  inhabitants  of  Paris.  There 
is  so  much  here  to  contribute  to  the  happiness  of 
childhood,  youth,  and  old  age.  Oh  !  what  treasures 
are  these  beautiful  gardens ;  they  are  truly  the  lungs 
of  this  great  metropolis.  It  is  surprising  to  see  how 
the  rich  and  poor  flock  to  them  from  early  morning 
till  late  at  night.  Here  you  sip  your  cafe  and  listen 
to  the  most  enchanting  music  ;  the  gentle  sparrows 
skip  around  your  feet,  and  pick  crumbs  from  the  chil- 
dren's tiny  fingers.  The  birds  of  the  forest  are  also 
attracted  to  these  beautiful  groves,  adding  their  sweet 
notes  to  the  music ;  here  they  build  nests,  and  rear 
their  young  in  the  branches  of  the  beautiful  shade 
trees.  Again  I  wander  to  ''Place  de  la  Concorde" 
where  the  Queen,  Marie  Antoinette,  fell  under  the 
Jacobin  guillotine,  and  where  Louis  XVI  and  many 
other  nobles  of  France  shared  the  same  fate.  These 
grounds  were  made  red  with  the  best  blood  of  France. 
What  a  change !  Here  you  now  find  the  most  enchant- 
ing spot  in  Paris.  In  the  centre  of  "  Place  de  la  Con- 
corde "  stands  a  column  one  hundred  feet  high  ;  its 
sides  are  covered  with  Egyptian  hieroglyphics,  ex- 
ecuted more  than  three  thousand  years  ago.      This 


European  Correspondence.  261 

old  relic  of  Egyptian  antiquity  stood  before  the  Tem- 
ple at  Thebes  fifteen  hundred  years  before  the  birth 
of  Christ.  From  this  point  you  cast  your  eyes  to  the 
east,  and  you  see  the  garden  of  the  Tuileries  and  the 
palace  of  Napoleon  III ;  to  the  north  is  the  magnificent 
Church  of  the  Madeleine.  Its  noble  proportions,  its 
splendid  architecture,  its  gorgeously  rich  exterior 
and  interior,  its  decorations  and  fine  paintings,  with 
which  its  walls  are  adorned,  all  these  render  it  the 
most  beautiful  and  interesting  work  of  art  that  I  have 
seen  in  Europe.  The  lover  of  the  beautiful  will  not 
tire  in  looking  upon  this  unsurpassed  and  wonderful 
church  edifice.  To  the  south,  is  the  Chamber  of 
Deputies,  which  you  reach  by  crossing  a  massive 
stone  bridge  over  the  River  Seine  ;  to  the  west  are  the 
Elysian  Fields,  the  fairy  land  of  Paris.  This  Eden  is 
a  quarter  of  a  mile  wide,  and  one  and  a  half  in  length. 
In  the  centre  of  these  grounds  is  the  grand  avenue  of 
Champs  Elysces,  which  leads  to  the  Arclie  Triomphe. 
This  monument,  like  ■  everything  that  is  grand  and 
imposing,  improves  on  a  second  visit.  The  drive  up 
the  Champs  Elysces  is  thronged  with  brilliant  equi- 
pages and  splendid  equestrians.  It  is  unsurpassed  for 
its  beauty  and  grandeur.  Here  you  see  Paris  in  her 
gayest  and  most  brilliant  uniform.  In  this  mass  of 
human  beings  mingle  royalty  and  democracy,  king 
and  peasant — all  seem  to  be  in  quiet  pursuit  of  com- 
fort, pleasure,  and  pure  air.  Art  and  nature  have 
conspired  to  give  the  Arclie  Triomphe  a  happy  loca- 
tion, and  it  is  the  most  stupendous  structure  of  the 
kind  ever  erected.     Its  cost  exceeds  ten  millions  of 


262  European  Correspojidence. 

francs.     This  monument  is   the  work  of  Napoleon  ; 
built  to  celebrate  his  victories  and  butcheries  ! 

Again  I  wander  in  the  Garden  of  Plants,  which  inter- 
ested me  so  much  during  my  first  visit  to  Paris.  In 
all  my  travels  on  the  Continent  I  found  nothing  of 
the  kind  that  surpassed  this  enchanting  spot.  This  is 
an  institution  which  combines  science  and  pleasure. 
Here  is  the  magnificent  cedar  of  Lebanon — a  tree  that 
not  even  the  Jacobin  destructionists  dared  molest. 
It  is  difficult  to  decide,  while  in  the  Garden  of  Plants 
and  the  Museum  of  Natural  History,  which  depart- 
ment you  most  admire.  When  in  the  division  devoted 
to  botany,  looking  at  the  myriads  of  luxuriant  plants 
and  trees  from  every  part  of  the  habitable  globe,  you 
think  this  the  sweetest  spot,  and  so  it  is ;  but  when 
you  enter  the  zoological  department,  filled  with  ani- 
mals and  fowls  from  the  four  quarters  of  the  globe, 
together  with  a  vast  collection  of  objects  intended  to 
illustrate  different  branches  of  natural  history,  from 
the  mammoth  whale  to  the  infant  not  a  span  long, 
one  cannot  but  be  deeply  interested.  Connected  with 
the  " yardin  des  Plantes"  is  a  college  with  twenty 
professors,  who  give  lectures  on  natural  history,  anat- 
omy, chemistry,  mineralogy,  geology  and  physic 
applied  to  natural  history ;  besides  there  are  masters 
who  give  lessons  in  drawing  and  painting  flowers. 

Hotel  de  Cluny,  one  of  the  ancient  mansions  of 
Paris,  interested  me  on  account  of  its  antiquity,  and 
the  rare  collection  of  antique  curiosities  it  contains. 
The  ancient  appearance  of  the  building  attracted  my 
attention,  and   my  curiosity  was  further  excited  on 


European  Correspondence.  263 

learning  that  some  two  thousand  years  ago  it  was  the 
residence  of  Roman  Governors  of  Gaul,  and  it  was 
here  Julian  resided  when  he  was  proclaimed  Governor 
of  Rome.  The  modern  portion  of  the  edifice  has  been 
successively  a  nunnery,  a  palace,  a  prison,  a  revolu- 
tionary hall,  and  now  a  museum.  It  is  certainly  one 
of  the  most  curious  places  I  have  seen  in  the  Old 
World.  The  collection  of  historical  antiquities  is  a 
huge  treasure  of  wonders. 

Knowing  Mrs.  W.'s  proclivities  for  fine  porcelain 
and  exquisite  cut  glass,  I  visited  the  Government 
works  a  few  miles  out  of  Paris,  and  made  some  selec- 
tions that  I  think  will  please  the  good  folks  at  home. 
The  rich  and  costly  vases  here  exceed  anything 
beyond  American  conception.  The  establishment, 
like  all  Government  works  in  France,  is  on  a  grand 
scale,  and  present  a  rare  museum  of  every  variety  of 
earthenware ;  here  you  find  costly  porcelain  from 
China,  Japan,  India,  and  from  almost  every  kingdom 
in  Europe.  The  French  surpass  all  nations  in  cut 
glass  and  perfect  mirrors. 

G.  W.  W. 

Paris,  September,   1866. 


LETTER    TWENTY-FIFTH 


Visit  to  St.  Cloud — Napoleon  III —  Versailles — Leaving 
Paris — Rouen — Cathedral — Joan  of  Arc — Her  In- 
human Murder. 

As  I  did  not  see  Napoleon  III,  when  last 
in  Paris,  and  not  wishing  to  return  to  America 
without  looking  upon  so  great  and  distinguished 
a  personage,  I  went  to  St.  Cloud  for  that  pur- 
pose. The  emperor  and  empress  were  spending  a 
few  weeks  at  St.  Cloud,  which  is  their  summer 
retreat.  At  5  P.  M.,  he  and  his  family  drove  in 
an  open  carriage  through  the  park,  to  the  delight 
of  those  who,  like  myself,  came  here  to  gaze  upon 
royalty. 

The  emperor  is  looking  care-worn,  and  the  em- 
press does  not  appear  as  young  and  fresh  as  her 
pictures  indicate. 

St.  Cloud  is  quite  a  village,  on  the  left  bank  of  the 
Seine,  six  miles  from  Paris,  and  on  the  railway  to 
Versailles.  The  fine  chateau  of  St.  Cloud,  originally 
the  property  of  the  Duke  of  Orleans,  was  long  the 
favorite  abode  of  the  kings  of  France.  It  has  an 
extensive  park  and  fine  fountains.  Henry  IV  was 
assassinated  here,  by  Jacques  Clement,  in  1589.  It 
was  at  St.   Cloud  the  first  Napoleon  broke  up  the 


European  Correspondence.  265 

assembly  of  "  Five  hundred."  Their  proceedings 
displeased  young  Bonaparte,  and  he  determined 
to  bring  matters  to  a  decisive  issue.  He  placed 
himself  at  the  door  of  the  assembly  amid  the 
shouts,  "Down  with  the  dictator!"  "Down  with 
the  bayonets!"  "Outlaw  the  bayonet!"  It  is  said 
Napoleon  grew  pale,  and  resolutely  determined  to 
employ  armed  force  for  the  purpose  of  expelling 
the  refractory  council  from  its  place  of  meeting. 

The  word  of  command  was  given,  and  the  grena- 
diers, led  by  Murat,  (afterwards  the  brother-in-law 
of  Napoleon,)  entered  the  hall  with  fixed  bayonets. 
The  representatives  fled  in  all  directions.  Napoleon 
caused  himself  to  be  proclaimed  First  Consul.  This 
was  in  November,  1799.  Thus  perished  the  short- 
lived republic,  which  to  establish  deluged  France 
in  blood.  Napoleon  was  now  supreme  governor 
of  all  he  surveyed,  and  he  ruled  the  refractory 
people  of  France  with  an  iron  rod.  Nothing  but 
a  master  mind  and  a  master  will  could  deal 
with  the  Jacobin  spirit  which  spread  not  only 
throughout  France,  but  throughout  the  Continent 
of  Europe. 

Who  has  not  heard  of  Versailles,  and  read  of  its 
grand  palace  and  splendid  paintings?  I  do  not  know 
when  I  have  spent  a  day  with  more  intense  interest 
than  the  one  devoted  to  an  excursion  to  Versailles. 
It  is  said  that  the  folly  and  extravagance  of  Louis 
XVI,  in  building  this  city,  was  the  baleful  seed  sown 
which  afterwards  produced  the  French  Revolution. 
These  old  hunting  grounds  were  converted  into  mag- 
34 


266  European  Correspondence. 

nificent  palaces  and  fountains,  on  a  scale  grand  and 
costly  almost  beyond  conception.  Nowhere  in  Eu- 
rope have  I  seen  fountains  equal  to  those  of  Ver- 
sailles. The  palaces  of  Vienna  and  Berlin  will  not 
compare,  in  cost  or  magnificence,  with  those  to  be 
found  in  this  Parisian  suburb ;  and  the  Museum  of 
Fine  Arts  here  is  almost  equal  to  those  of  Paris  or 
any  other  city.  The  length  of  the  palace  is  fourteen 
hundred  feet,  and  the  central  front,  projecting  on  the 
west,  is  two  hundred  and  seventy-five  feet  beyond 
the  wings.  These  large  halls  and  galleries  are  filled 
with  historical  collections.  It  required  many  hours 
to  walk  through  the  various  departments,  merely 
having  time  to  make  a  cursory  inspection  of  their 
contents.  One  of  the  wonders  of  the  palace  is 
the  gallery  of  magnificent  mirrors,  two  hundred 
and  fifty  feet  long,  forty  wide,  and  forty-two  high, 
reflecting,  as  they  do,  the  beautiful  grounds  and 
gardens. 

The  fountains  play  only  on  Sunday.  The  finest 
basins  are  those  of  Neptune,  Latona  and  Apollo. 
From  the  basin  of  Neptune  a  broad  and  beautiful 
avenue  leads  to  the  lake,  with  a  miniature  Swiss  vil- 
lage built  on  its  banks  by  Marie  Antoinette.  Ver- 
sailles at  one  time  had  a  population  of  one  hundred 
thousand;  it  is  now  reduced  to  thirty  thousand.  The 
streets  are  wide  and  clean,  and  are  lined  with  many 
elegant  houses.  The  pure  air,  refreshing  fountains, 
and  fine  promenades,  and  close  proximity  to  Paris, 
make  it  a  most  delightful  summer  retreat.  I  find  if  I 
linger  in  and  around  Paris  until  I  visit  all  the  objects 


European  Correspondence.  267 

of  interest,  and  satisfy  my  curiosity,  I  shall  never 
again  see  "sweet  home."  I  must,  then,  bid  a  long 
adieu  to  these  French  luxuries  and  pleasures. 

I  would  advise  any  one  who  possesses  taste  and 
the  means  for  enjoying  any  refinement  which  wealth 
can  command,  to  go  to  France.  What  nature  lacks 
has  been  supplied  with  a  liberal  hand  by  art  and 
science. 

Three  hours'  travel  by  the  lightning  train,  through 
a  beautiful  and  highly  cultivated  country,  and  we  find 
ourselves  in  the  quaint  old  City  of  Rouen,  so  full  of 
antique  history. 

In  passing  through  the  land  of  the  daring  and 
chivalrous  Normans,  the  mind  is  crowded  with  his- 
torical associations  which  lend  a  thrilling  interest  to 
this  old  domain,  once  the  battle-ground  of  Julius 
Caesar,  by  whom  it  was  conquered  before  the  Chris- 
tian era. 

At  one  time  a  prey  to  the  Roman  powers,  then 
overrun  by  the  Germanic  nations,  who  poured  down 
from  their  Scandinavian  caves  with  the  relentless 
fierceness  of  hungry  wolves,  leaving  their  bloody 
tracks  through  the  hills  and  valleys  of  Normandy. 

England,  the  grand  old  monarch  of  Europe,  as 
usual,  took  her  part  in  the  struggles,  and  came  in 
for  the  lion's  share  of  the  spoils. 

Normandy  was  long  the  fruit  coveted  by  England 
and  France,  and  was  successively  governed  by  those 
nations  until  England  committed  the  great  crime 
of  inhumanly  burning  alive  an  innocent  French 
girl.     From  the  time  of   this  cruel  act,    fate  turned 


268  European  Correspondence. 

against  the  English,  and  her  kings  and  queens 
never  again  tyrannized  over  the  brave  and  .resolute 
Normans. 

In  Rouen  there  are  many  antiquities  of  deep  and 
thrilling  interest.  The  most  striking  of  these  is  the 
celebrated  Cathedral  of  Notre  Dame.  It  is  regarded 
as  one  of  the  noblest  structures  of  the  kind  in  Europe. 
The  cathedral  is  one  hundred  and  ten  feet  wide,  and 
in  length  four  hundred  and  fifty.  As  you  gaze  upon 
its  huge  proportions,  the  mind  is  overwhelmed  with 
its  vastness  and  curious  workmanship.  Its  gorgeously 
ornamented  front  has  three  splendid  portals,  over 
which  is  a  central  tower,  surrounded  by  an  iron  spire, 
mounting  to  the  dizzy  height  of  four  hundred  and 
sixty  feet. 

On  entering  this  immense  Gothic  structure,  you 
look  upon  the  splendid  architecture,  monuments, 
statues,  and  pictures  almost  without  number.  Here 
the  light  is  pouring  in  from  one  hundred  and  forty 
windows,  through  stained  glass  of  almost  every  shape 
and  color.  The  sensation  produced  is  overpowering, 
partaking,  perhaps,  more  of  the  feeling  of  awe  than  of 
religious  sentiment. 

A  visit  of  a  day  will  not  admit  of  taking  in  the 
vast  proportions  of  this  wonderful  church  edifice, 
and  its  marvellous  and  interesting  decorations.  Near 
the  old  market  is  a  monument  which  stands  to 
perpetuate  the  shame  of  England  and  the  ingrati- 
tude of  France  for  the  great  crime  of  consigning, 
in  143 1,  to  the  flames,  Joan  of  Arc,  the  heroine  of 
Orleans. 


European  Correspondence,  269 

For  the  benefit  of  your  young  readers  I  will  give  a 
brief  sketch  of  this  remarkable  French  girl. 

While  en  route  from  Paris  to  Switzerland,  I  passed 
through  the  small  town  of  Domrenny,  and  was 
informed  that  the  celebrated  Joan  of  Arc  was  born 
there.  Her  parents  were  poor  but  respectable.  She 
spent  the  early  portion  of  her  life  in  a  menial  capac- 
ity ;  but,  possessing  genius  of  high  order,  she  was 
not  long  satisfied  with  playing  the  part  of  her  father's 
shepherd  girl.  Joan  was  noted,  when  a  child,  for  her 
sweetness  of  temper,  industrious  habits,  and  purity  of 
character.  During  that  period  in  France  when  the 
power  had  fallen  from  the  hands  of  an  imbecile  king, 
two  leading  houses  of  Orleans  and  Burgundy  claimed 
the  throne.  The  latter  called  to  their  aid  the  English. 
These  foreigners  made  the  unfortunate  French  feel 
the  horrors  of  war. 

Political  and  party  interest  was  forced  upon  the 
mind  of  Joan.  A  prophesy  being  current  that  a  virgin 
should  rid  France  of  its  enemies,  this  prediction  fast- 
ened itself  on  the  mind  of  the  maid  that  she  was  to 
be  the  deliverer.  Joan's  determination  to  start,  on 
what  she  conceived  to  be  a  holy  mission,  was  hast- 
ened by  the  fact  that  a  band  of  Burgundians  plun- 
dered the  country,  and  compelled  the  young  girl,  with 
her  parents,  to  quit  their  homes  and  fly  for  safety. 
When  they  returned  they  found  their  humble  cottage, 
and  the  Church  of  Domrenny,  laid  in  ashes.  Such 
conduct,  by  the  brutal  soldiery,  was  well  calculated 
to  fire  the  indignation  of  Joan.  The  fortunes  of  the 
Dauphin  Charles,  at  this  time,  were  almost  desperate. 


270  European  Correspondence. 

From  childhood  her  attachment  to  the  throne  amount- 
ed almost  to  idolatry.  Her  loyal  and  patriotic  spirit 
revolted  at  witnessing  the  misery  and  degradation  of 
her  country  under  the  oppression  of  the  English,  who 
had  united  with  the  Burgundists  against  the  Orleans 
family.  The  City  of  Orleans  was  closely  besieged,  and 
its  deliverance  became  the  cherished  dream  of  Joan's 
life. 

The  young  girl  religiously  believed  that  she  was 
destined,  under  Providence,  to  be  the  deliverer  of  her 
oppressed  people.  The  enthusiastic  Jeanne  sought 
an  interview  with  the  governor,  and  told  him  of  her 
supernatural  "  visions  "  and  communications  from  St. 
Michael  and  St.  Catherine,  by  whom  she  was  commis- 
sioned to  rescue  her  distressed  monarch  from  his  ene- 
mies. At  first  she  was  treated  as  an  impostor,  but 
her  unusual  intelligence  and  prepossessing  manners 
and  appearance,  inspired  confidence  in  the  governor, 
and  he  yielded  so  far  to  her  importunities  as  to 
furnish  her  with  an  armed  escort  to  the  court-  of 
Charles.  Enduring  heroically  the  hardships  of  a 
long,  fatiguing  march,  she  reached  the  court  early  in 
1429,  and  was  soon  thereafter  admitted  to  the  pres- 
ence of  Charles.  It  is  said  she  gave  him  satisfactory 
proof  of  her  inspiration  by  relating  to  him  facts 
which  he  believed  to  be  known  to  none  but  God  and 
himself. 

The  king  no  longer  doubted ;  but,  to  remove  all 
suspicion  from  the  public  mind,  subjected  her  char- 
acter in  all  respects  to  be  critcally  scrutinized.  She 
proved  to  be  pure  and  unimpeachable.     At  her  earnest 


European  Correspondence.  271 

request  she  was  dispatched  to  the  relief  of  Orleans, 
which  had  been  for  six  months  closely  besieged  by 
the  English  and  Burgundians. 

She  was  furnished  with  a  war-horse,  and  a  complete 
suit  of  armor,  such  as  was  worn  by  the  warriors  of 
that  day.  A  page  bore  her  banner,  with  the  motto 
"  Jesus  Maria."  Thus  equipped  she  headed  the  French 
army,  and  made  a  bold  attack  on  the  strongest  point 
of  the  English  position.  In  the  hottest  of  the  fight 
she  received  a  severe  wound  in  her  bosom;  quickly 
recovering  from  the  shock,  she  drew  out  the  weapon 
with  her  own  hand,  and  rushed  again  to  the  front. 
The  French  soldiers  partook  of  her  enthusiasm,  and 
borne  along,  as  if  by  superhuman  impulse,  charged 
the  enemy  with  relentless  fury,  who,  panic-stricken, 
gave  way  after  a  brief  struggle.  The  English 
retreated  hastily,  and  in  great  confusion,  leaving 
their  baggage  and  artillery.  The  victorious  deliverer 
of  Orleans  urged  Charles  to  march  without  delay 
upon  Reims.  Step  by  step  the  Maid  of  Orleans 
fought  her  way  to  Reims,  and  did  not  rest  until  her 
prophesy  was  .  fulfilled  that  "  the  Dauphin  Charles 
should  be  proclaimed  king  at  Reims."  The  Maid  of 
Orleans  was  subsequently  wounded  at  the  siege  of 
Paris,  and  taken  prisoner.  Instead  of  treating  her 
honorably  as  a  captive,  the  English  gave  her  up  to 
pass  through  a  mock  trial.  She  was,  by  a  bribed 
jury,  found  guilty  of  "sorcery,"  and  inhumanly  con- 
demned to  be  burnt  alive  !  A  pile  of  wood  was  raised 
near  the  market-house,  and  Joan,  the  heroic  Maid  of 
Orleans,  and  deliverer  of  France,  was  placed  upon  it. 


272  European  Correspondence. 

When  the  flames  curled  around  her  she  begged  that 
the  image  of  Christ  might  be  placed  before  her. 
The  last  utterance  of  her  lips  was  in  fervent  prayer 
to  her  Saviour.  All  that  was  mortal  of  the  beautiful 
Maid  of  Orleans  was  reduced  to  ashes,  and  swept 
into  the  Seine ;  while  her  gentle  spirit  took  its  flight 
to  the  better  land. 

It  is  difficult  to  know  on  whom  to  fix  the  ignominy 
of  this  barbarous  murder.  The  sad  fate  of  Joan  of 
Arc  is  alike  disgraceful  to  friend  and  foe ;  at  least 
this  is  the  opinion  of 

G.  W.  W. 

Reims,  September,   1866. 


LETTER     TWENTY-SIXTH 


London — The  English  Channel — Hills  of  Dover — Poor 
of  London — Commercial  and  Financial  Crisis — Sight- 
seeing—  The  Home  of  my  Forefathers — Invitation 
from  a  Charleston  Friend. 

A  few  days  since  our  party  were  busily  engaged  at 
the  Hotel  de  Louvre,  preparing  to  leave  for  England. 
A  little  girl  said,  beseechingly,  "  Please  don't  go  to 
London,  mamma,  London  is  not  a  new  place."  No, 
this  city  of  cities  is  certainly  not  a  new  place,  but  it 
is  a  metropolis  in  which  every  lover  of  antique  his- 
tory, of  art,  education,  science  and  commerce,  must 


European  Correspondence.  273 

visit  with  thrilling  interest.  To  your  young  readers 
who  have  been  for  so  many  long  years  shut  up  in 
the  closely  besieged  Confederacy,  there  is  much  to 
them  that  is  new,  even  within  the  dingy  old  walls 
of  London. 

I  left  Rouen  with  four  lady  passengers,  two  of 
whom  were  Americans,  and  two  were  Germans — the 
latter  were  experienced  travellers.  I  was  glad  of 
an  opportunity  of  availing  myself  of  their  previous 
knowledge  of  the  sights  to  be  seen  here.  It  is  a 
great  advantage  to  travel  with  those  who  know  what 
is  worth  seeing,  and  where  to  find  it.  It  was  espe- 
cially important  to  one  whose  time  was  as  precious  as 
mine.  A  stranger  is  often  terribly  imposed  upon  by 
guides  and  couriers,  whose  chief  aim  is  to  get  your 
money  for  the  least  possible  labor. 

At  Dieppe  we  took  passage  on  a  fine  steamer  for 
Dover,  and  bade  a  long  farewell  to  the  green  hills  of 
La  Belle  Fra7ice.  A  shrill  whistle,  and  the  deck  of 
our  steamer  was  soon  crowded  with  passengers. 

A  moment  more,  and  we  were  fairly  launched 
on  the  angry  billows  of  the  English  Channel.  As 
usual  in  these  waters,  the  sea  was  rough,  and  many  of 
the  passengers  were  sick  almost  unto  death.  A  gen- 
tleman administered  brandy  to  his  distressed  wife 
pretty  freely.  Between  the  rolling  of  the  ship  and  the 
effects  of  the  liquor,  she  became  frantic,  kicked  up  a 
general  row,  and  threatened  to  murder  the  captain 
if  he  did  not  put  on  more  steam  and  land  her 
quickly  at  Dover. 
35 


274  Europe  mi  Correspondence. 

The  captain  quietly  remarked  that  he  thought  we 
already  had  most  too  much  steam  on  the  ship  for  the 
comfort  of  the  passengers.  She  threw  a  glass  tumbler 
at  his  head,  to  the  great  mortification  of  her  gentle- 
manly looking  husband,  and  the  discomfort  of  the 
captain.  An  officer  took  charge  of  our  -belligerent 
passenger,  and  the  last  I  heard  of  her  she  was  scream- 
ing "more  steam"  and  "more  brandy!"  I  have 
heard  travellers  say  they  had  rather  cross  the  Atlantic 
than  the  English  Channel.  The  day  was  bright  and 
lovely.  I  have  been  tossed  about  so  much  on  land 
and  sea,  I  have  grown  hardy,  and  am  seldom  sick. 
I  was  as  comfortable  as  if  sailing  on  a  smooth 
lake  ;  but  I  must  confess  that  I  felt  sad  when  I  saw 
the  old  Continent  gradually  fading  from  my  natural 
vision.  Its  treasures  of  cities,  mountains,  valleys 
and  lakes,  are  carefully  locked  up  in  memory's 
recesses.  These  reminiscences  of  the  Old  World 
will  furnish  me  and  the  loved  ones  at  home  many  a 
pleasant  hour  in  living  them  over  again.  As  one  glory 
fadeth  away  another  appeareth,  at  least  such  has  been 
my  good  fortune.  I  leave  the  accumulated  glories  of 
the  Continent,  and  I  enter  upon  the  enchanting  scenes 
of  Great  Britain.  Before  me  stand  the  bold  and 
chalk-like  cliffs  of  old  Dover,  and  now  I  am  safely 
landed  on  English  soil !  How  my  heart  beats  as  the 
histories  of  this  little  island  crowd  upon  me,  and 
as  I  hear  the  sweet  and  familiar  tone  of  my  mother 
tongue,  I  can  scarcely  refrain  from  embracing  my 
cousins,  who  speak  a  language  never  before  so  sweet 
to  my  ear ;  and,  at  this  point,  let  me  urge  upon  every 


European  Correspondence.  275 

man  and  woman  who  has  any  idea  of  visiting  the 
Continent,  to  learn  at  least  the  French  language ; 
and  a  little  German  would  aid  in  directing  your  hack- 
man  to  drive  you  to  a  hotel,  and  not  to  the  king's 
palace.  As  I  stood  upon  the  soil  of  Old  England, 
somehow  -a  feeling  of  home,  dear  home,  came  over 
me  !  Oh,  how  my  heart  flew  to  the  loved  ones  over 
the  vast  Atlantic  !  But  enough — here  are  the  hills  of 
Dover,  covered  with  the  strongest  fortifications,  keep- 
ing a  watchful  eye  upon  the  restless  enemy  of  Eng- 
land. I  learned  that  one  of  the  old  cannons,  which 
pointed  over  the  channel,  had  written  on  it — 

"  Keep  me  dry,  and  keep  me  clean, 

And  I  will  carry  a  ball  to  Calais  green." 

It  was  here  that  the  ambitious  Caesar  first  planted 
his  foot,  his  terror,  and  his  power  upon  English  soil. 
What  a  narrow  space  separates  two  powerful  nations, 
as  unlike  in  tastes,  manners  and  habits,  as  in  language. 
And  here,  again,  I  will  take  the  liberty  of  giving  my 
American  friends  a  little  advice  :  before  making  a  tour 
of  the  Continent,  if  possible,  visit  Great  Britain.  It 
has  been  my  fortune,  however,  to  take  the  plum  pud- 
ding first,  and  then  the  roast  beef.  English  beef  is 
not  to  be  despised,  even  after  having  been  feasted  on 
the  dainties  of  Paris,  Vienna  and  Berlin,  and  on  the 
pates  de  foie  gras  of  Strasburg. 

At  Dover,  our  baggage  was  taken  charge  of  and 
transferred  to  the  customhouse  to  undergo  a  strict 
search.  An  Israelite — I  cannot  say  "  in  whom  there 
was  no   guile  " — was   overhauled  by  the   eagle-eyed 


276  European  Correspondence. 

government  officers,  and  his  goods  confiscated  for  an 
attempt  to  smuggle.  As  I  had  four  lady  passengers 
under  my  wing,  the  Brussels  lace  that  I  selected  for 
my  American  queen  was  not  considered  contraband. 

The  railway  to  London  lies  through  a  beautiful  and 
highly  cultivated  country.  On  our  left,  we  had  a 
view  of  the  wide-renown  Crystal  Palace. 

We  are  now  in  London,  the  world's  great  Babel, 
the  heart  of  the  British  Empire,  and  the  financial  cir- 
cle of  the  Universe.  We  stopped  in  the  West  End, 
at  the  Langham  Hotel,  where  we  found  comfortable 
quarters.  I  was  up  bright  and  early,  and  requested 
the  clerk  to  show  me  on  the  map  what  part  of  the 
City  of  London  we  were  in,  and  was  quite  surprised 
to  learn,  notwithstanding  we  had  driven  for  miles 
through  streets  lined  with  elegant  mansions,  we  were 
still  two  miles  out  of  London  proper. 

Since  my  arrival  I  have  been  learning  the  geogra- 
phy of  this  mammoth  metropolis.  One  of  the  best 
means  of  seeing  a  city  is  to  take  a  box  seat  with  the 
driver — a  small  pecuniary  recognition  will  make  him 
very  accommodating  and  communicative;  he  will 
take  pleasure  in  pointing  out  every  place  of  interest 
on  his  entire  route. 

These  public  conveyances  run  from  and  to  the 
most  noted  places,  passing  through  the  best  and  most 
frequented  streets.  You  can  ride  in  these  convey- 
ances, until  you  are  bewildered  at  sight-seeing,  for 
six  cents. 

To  one  unaccustomed  to  large  cities,  it  is  difficult 
to  realize  the  extent  and  vastness  of  London. 


European  Correspondence.  277 

This  wonder  of  the  world  lies  on  both  sides  of  the 
River  Thames,  and  is  twelve  miles  long  and  six  wide. 
Its  population  is  four  times  that  of  the  State  of  South 
Carolina.  Here  you  find  wealth  and  plenty,  aristoc- 
racy and  beggary ;  Fifth-avenue  palaces  and  Five- 
point  rookeries ;  two  thousand  churches  and  ten 
thousand  gambling  saloons  ;  a  few  thousand  men  and 
women  of  leisure  and  culture ;  and  two  millions 
ground  down  by  overwork  and  underpay. 

The  poor  have  a  hard,  hard  time  of  it  in  London. 
On  all  sides  you  see  evidences  of  pinching  want  and 
wretchedness. 

With  these  poor  creatures  it  is  not  how  much  they 
can  lay  up  from  their  toil,  but  the  fight  from  morn- 
ing till  night  is  to  get  bread  for  the  tattered  and 
hungry  children.  You  will  find  yourself  asking  the 
question,  "  Why  do  these  destitute  people  remain  in 
London  ?  "  The  answer  is,  "  They  have  not  the  means 
of  getting  away."  And,  further,  thousands  have  no 
knowledge  of  any  country  beyond  the  precincts  of 
their  own  dark  damp  cellars  and  crowded  attics. 
Talk  to  them  about  America,  and  they  don't  know 
whether  it  is  in  China  or  Africa ;  and  this  great  me- 
tropolis, with  the  concentrated  wealth  of  the  world  at 
its  command,  with  its  Bank  of  England,  its  Barings, 
Rothchilds  and  Peabodies,  send  into  the  streets  daily 
hordes  of  beggars,  many  of  them  the  mere  skeletons 
of  men  and  women,  in  rags,  with  withered  children 
in  their  arms,  begging  for  bread.  The  lame,  the 
blind,  and  the  deformed  crawl  into  the  streets,  im- 
ploring alms ;  and  all  these  revolting  and  sickening 


278  European  Correspondence. 

sights  are  to  be  seen  in  the  city  that  groaned  over 
the  wretched  condition  of  the  American  slave ;  and 
made  a  goddess  of  Madame  Stowe  for  printing  her 
"  Uncle  Tom  "  misrepresentations.  This  is  the  city 
that  sends  its  missionaries  to  "  Greenland's  Icy  Moun- 
tains," and  to  "  India's  Burning  Plains,"  to  look  after 
the  heathen,  when  the  heathen  are  to  be  found  by  the 
million  at  their  very  doors.  It  is  said  that  "  distance 
lends  enchantment  to  the  view."  I  doubt  not  if  these 
wretched  creatures,  bone  of  their  bone,  and  flesh  of 
their  flesh,  were  in  China  or  America,  millions  of 
money  could  be  raised  in  London  to  relieve  their 
miserable  condition.  In  all  cities  you  find  extreme 
poverty  and  great  wealth ;  the  most  abject  destitu- 
tion, and  the  most  profuse  and  prodigal  luxury.  I 
would  not  have  you  think  the  people  of  London  were 
not  charitable.  They  not  only  devise  but  carry  out 
noble  deeds.  London  has  a  thousand  charitable  in- 
stitutions, and  vast  sums  of  public  and  private  contri- 
butions are  expended  in  relieving  the  distresses  of 
the  poor.  It  is  said  some  six  millions  of  dollars  are 
raised  annually  for  these  purposes ;  but  why  do  not 
the  public  authorities,  as  in  Paris,  put  a  stop  to  the 
annoying  street  begging?  In  the  chief  cities  on  the 
Continent,  beggars  are  only  permitted  to  ask  alms 
on  holyday  occasions. 

Perhaps  I  have  presented  the  dark  side  of  the  pic- 
ture of  London,  and  it  may  be  that  I  am  here  at  a 
very  unfavorable  time.  The  British  Empire  is  now 
passing  through  a  terrible  commercial  and  financial 
crisis.     For  six  consecutive  months  money  has  aver- 


European  Correspondence.  279 

aged  ten  per  cent.  Such  a  high  rate  of  interest,  for 
so  long  a  time,  is  almost  without  a  precedent,  in 
England  especially,  when  the  country  is  free  from 
war.  A  year  ago  money  was  one  and  a  half  to  two 
and  a  half  per  cent.  The  failure  of  some  large  bankers 
and  commercial  houses,  have  thrown  distrust  and 
discredit  upon  the  whole  trading  community.  The 
"bubbles  of  finance"  have  exploded,  and  have  brought 
ruin  and  bankruptcy  upon  many  who  counted  their 
wealth  by  the  millions.  These  failures  have  been 
brought  about  mainly  by  overtrading,  speculation, 
and  a  too  free  use  of  credit.  "  Promoters  "  of  joint 
stock  companies,  and  of  life  insurance  companies, 
are  a  curse  in  all  communities.  These  worthies 
weave  webs  by  day  and  by  night,  into  which  innocent 
flies  from  the  country  and  from  the  city,  of  both 
sexes,  become  entangled;  and  the  more  they  struggle 
the  closer  the  web  is  wrapped  around  them.  These 
land  sharks  are  as  dangerous  as  the  counterfeiters, 
for  they  "  promote  companies,"  knowing  the  con- 
cern to  be  rotten  to  the  core.  These  legalized 
swindlers  will  rob  a  man  of  his  lifetime  earnings, 
and  go  scot-free,  while  the  man  who  passes  a  ten 
pound  counterfeit  note  pays  the  extreme  penalty  of 
the  law. 

I  hope  you  will  not  think,  gentle  reader,  that 
London  is  a  poorhouse  filled  with  beggars,  or 
that  the  capital  of  the  banks  and  insurance  com- 
panies is  made  up  of  the  "  bubbles  of  finance  ?" 
Far  from  it.  There  is  more  wealth  in  a  mile 
square,  taking  the   Bank    of  England  as   the  centre, 


280  European  Correspondence. 

than  there  is  in  the  same  space  in  any  other  city 
on  the  globe.  Well,  I  have  spent  ten  days  in  this 
great,  rich  capital,  scarcely  taking  time  to  eat  or 
sleep. 

I  have  availed  myself  of  the  best  possible  means 
of  sight-seeing,  regardless  of  cost,  and  I  doubt  whether 
two  eyes  ever  looked  upon  more  grand  sights  in  ten 
days  than  mine  have.  But  London  cannot  be  com- 
prehended in  a  week,  a  month,  nor  even  in  a  year. 
One  must  see  it,  walk  and  ride  through  its  thorough- 
fares, mingle  with  its  vast  population,  travel  under  its 
rivers,  and  on  its  rivers,  through  its  underground  rail- 
ways, traverse  its  numerous  parks,  and  then  mount 
the  lofty  dome  of  St.  Paul's,  and  take  a  panoramic 
view  of  the  great  metropolis,  such  as  no  other  city 
presents.  The  teeming  millions  of  human  beings 
at  our  feet  look  like  a  great  hive  of  busy  bees 
moving  to  and  fro,  some  of  them  laying  up  food 
for  the  winter  of  life ;  but,  alas !  there  are  among 
them  too  many  dronss,  living  upon  the  industry 
and  toil  of  their  neighbors.  In  these  ten  days  we 
have  seen  all  of  the  most  remarkable  objects  in 
London.  My  head  is  too  dizzy,  and  my  brain 
too  much  crowded  to  attempt  at  this  time  a  de- 
scription of  these  grand  sights.  Before  this  is 
attempted,  body  and  mind  must  both  have  rest 
and  repose.  With  this  conviction,  I  have  decided 
to  leave  London  to-morrow,  for  the  country,  pass- 
ing through  England,  Scotland,  and  return  to  Lon- 
don again  through  Wales,  once  the  home  of  my 
forefathers. 


M 

"■'« 


European  Correspondence.  281 

I  have  an  invitation  from  my  good  Charleston 
friend,  Mrs.  H.  P.  W.,  to  make  her  a  visit  near 
Colchester,  which  I  gladly  accept,  as  it  will  give  me 
an  opportunity  of  seeing  how  English  country  gentry 
live. 

G.  W.  W. 

London,  September,  1866. 


LETTER  TWENTY-SEVENTH. 


Rose  Cottage — Bury  St.  Edmunds — St.  Mary's  Church — 
Edinburgh — Sir  Walter  Scott's  Monument — Royal 
Museum — National  Gallery — Jolin  Knox's  House — 
Holyrood  Palace — Mary  Queen  of  Scotts — Murder  of 
Rizzio — Linlithgow. 

Having  received  a  polite  note  from  my  esteemed 
friend  Mrs.  H.  P.  W.,  the  Queen  of  Her  Majesty's 
popular  Consul  at  Charleston,  inviting  me  to  make 
her  a  visit,  I  left  London  on  the  lightning  train,  which 
carried  me  so  swiftly  through  the  beautifully  culti- 
vated fields  and  forests  of  rural  England,  that  I  did 
not  have  a  satisfactory  view  of  the  lovely  scenery 
which  lay  spread  out  on  both  sides  of  the  railway. 

The  pure  air  and  a  sight  of  the  blue  sky,  after  being 
shut  up  for  ten  days,  surrounded  with  brick  walls  and 
the  dense  fogs  of  London,  were  indeed  refreshing. 
36 


282  European  Correspondence. 

At  the  Colchester  Depot  I  was  met  by  my  Charles- 
ton friends.  A  short  drive  through  winding  roads, 
bordered  with  green  hedges,  and  I  find  myself  at 
Rose  Cottage.  In  this  quiet  English  home,  was  grace, 
ease,  and  beauty.  The  welcome  of  new  and  the 
familiar  faces  of  old  friends,  was  to  me  an  oasis  in  a 
foreign  land. 

I  had,  while  on  the  Continent,  looked  upon  so  many 
millions  of  strange  people,  and  heard  such  a  Babel  of 
foreign  languages,  it  made  me  happy  to  gaze  once 
more  upon  a  face  that  I  had  seen  at  my  own  home, 
and  to  hear  one  speak  my  native  tongue.  Mrs.  W. 
and  I  talked  over  home,  sweet  home,  until  I  almost 
felt  like  taking  passage  to  the  loved  ones  there  by 
the  cable  line,  instead  of  by  the  steamship  China.  As 
I  have  much  yet  to  see  before  crossing  the  Atlantic, 
I  must  not  linger  in  this  little  earthly  paradise.  In 
this  Eden  there  is  forbidden  fruit,  but  no  serpent  to 
tempt,  nor  Adams  to  be  tempted. 

My  friend,  Mr.  Walker,  gave  such  a  glowing  ac- 
count of  the  ancient  town  of  Bury  St.  Edmunds,  once 
his  home,  and  the  city  in  which  he  began  his  profes- 
sional career,  I  decided  to  spend  a  day  there,  and 
wander  among  the  ruins  of  the  Old  Abbey. 

Bury  St.  Edmunds,  a  municipal  and  parliamentary 
borough,  is  in  the  County  of  Suffolk,  some  seventy- 
five  miles  from  London.  About  one  thousand  years 
ago,  King  St.  Edmund  lived  and  died  here  ;  an  Abbey 
was  founded  in  honor  of  the  king,  which  became 
one  of  the  most  magnificent  in  the  Empire.  Its 
walls  encircled,  beside  the  monastery  proper,  a  large 


European  Correspondence.  283 

churchyard,  the  abbot's  palace,  infirmaries,  towers,  a 
garden,  several  chapels,  and  a  splendid  abbey  church. 
The  abbot  under  whom  were  numerous  monks,  chap- 
lains, and  servants,  enjoyed  the  broadest  privileges, 
even  to  the  coining  of  money,  and  inflicting  capital 
punishment. 

The  most  permanent  relic  left  of  these  grand  old 
ruins,  is  one  of  the  splendid  arched  ornamented  gates. 
Portions  of  the  church  have  been  converted  into  shops 
and  private  residences. 

The  beautiful  garden  is  still  kept  in  good  order. 
Bury  St.  Edmunds  has  a  population  of  fourteen  thou- 
sand. Its  principal  buildings  are  the  town  hall,  which, 
by  the  way,  was  originally  a  church. 

The  Church  of  St.  Mary's,  an  ancient  structure, 
contains  the  tomb  of  Mary,  Queen  of  France,  daugh- 
ter of  Henry  VII. 

Bishop  Gardiner,  Bishop  Bloomfield,  of  London, 
and  numerous  other  prominent  men,  were  natives  of 
this  town. 

At  5  P.  M.  I  left  for  Edinburgh.  In  a  railway  ride 
from  London  to  Edinburgh  is  presented  to  the  travel- 
ler rich  and  varied  panoramic  views. 

On  each  side  are  luxuriant  fields  of  grain  and 
meadows,  dotted  here  and  there  with  beautiful  rural 
homes  almost  hid  with  flowers  and  vines ;  and  now 
you  pass  magnificient  parks  filled  with  grand  old 
oaks  and  other  forest  trees,  the  growth  of  centuries. 
At  last  I  am  in  dear  old  Scotland  ;  the  land  of  the 
heroic  Wallace  and  Bruce;  of  the  unfortunate  Queen 
Mary ;  of  John  Knox,  the  Reformer ;    of  Burns,  the 


284  European  Correspondence. 

poet ;  of  David  Hume  and  Adam  Smith  ;  and  last, 
though  not  least,  of  Sir  Walter  Scott,  the  greatest 
author  of  ancient  and  modern  times. 

In  many  respects,  Scotland,  although  the  smallest, 
is  the  most  interesting  division  of  Great  Britain,  being 
divided  into  Highlands  and  Lowlands.  These  divis- 
ions are  filled  with  rugged  mountains,  fertile  valleys, 
and  beautiful  lakes,  and  abounds  in  ancient  castellated 
remains. 

The  soils  are  exceedingly  diversified.  Of  the 
twenty  millions  of  acres  of  land  not  one-third  of  it  is 
suitable  for  cultivation  ;  but  the  highest  hills  produce 
good  pasturage  for  sheep,  goats,  and  the  like. 

In  extent  of  territory  Scotland  is  about  equal  to 
the  State  of  South  Carolina.  Its  population  is  three 
million  one  hundred  thousand. 

We  are  now  in  Edinburgh.  It  is  one  of  the  hand- 
somest located  cities  in  Europe.  As  you  approach  it 
one  of  the  first  objects  that  meet  the  eye  is  the  old 
castle  perched  on  a  high  and  almost  precipitous  rock. 
I  shall  not  forget  my  first  impressions  of  this  ancient 
structure,  which  is  so  full  of  thrilling  associations  and 
historical  interest.  The  castle  consists  of  a  series  of 
irregular  fortifications,  and  has  an  elevation  of  nearly 
four  hundred  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  Here 
you  have  a  magnificent  view  of  Edinburgh,  the  ocean, 
and  of  the  surrounding  country. 

There  are  accommodations  in  the  barracks  for  two 
thousand  soldiers,  and  fifty  thousand  stand  of  arms. 
Improvements  in  modern  warfare  have  rendered 
these  fortifications  almost  useless.  . 


European  Correspondence.  285 

The  insignia  of  Scottish  royalty  consists  of  a 
crown,  a  sceptre,  and  a  sword  of  state,  which  are  pre- 
served and  exhibited  in  the  Crown  Room. 

On  the  ground  floor  is  a  small  apartment  where 
Queen  Mary  gave  birth  to  James  VI,  of  Scotland, 
afterwards  James  I,  of  England ;  thus  uniting  the 
crowns  of  the  two  kingdoms  and  putting  a  stop  to 
the  frequent  wars  between  the  two  rival  powers. 

The  pride  of  Edinburgh  is  Princess  street.  This 
broad,  straight  avenue,  is  a  mile  in  length,  and  is 
separated  from  the  old  town  by  pleasant  grounds, 
called  Princess-street  Gardens.  In  these  gardens, 
nearly  opposite  the  Royal  Hotel,  stands  the  handsome 
spiral  monument  erected  to  the  memory  of  Sir  Wal- 
ter Scott.  This  seems  to  be  a  waste  of  money,  as 
the  memory  of  the  celebrated  novelist  is  stamped  on 
every  hill,  nook  and  corner  of  his  native  land.  The 
height  of  the  monument  is  two  hundred  feet,  and  it 
cost  nearly  one  hundred  thousand  dollars. 

Below  the  canopy  of  the  monument  is  a  marble 
statue  of  the  great  author  in  a  sitting  posture,  attended 
by  his  favorite  dog,  Bevis. 

The  Royal  Museum  stands  about  the  centre  of 
Princess  street.  It  contains  a  valuable  collection  of 
Celtic  and  Roman  antiquities.  The  National  Gallery 
of  paintings  is  worthy  of  a  visit.  It  was  established 
in  1850,  by  the  late  Prince  Albert.  The  collection 
includes  some  fine  specimens  of  Vandyke,  Titian, 
Veronese,  Rembrandt,  and  others.  Among  the  few 
works  of  sculpture  in  these  rooms  is  the  statue  of 
Burns.     The  national  monument,  near  by,  is  intended 


286  European  Correspondence. 

to  commemorate  the  heroes  who  fell  at  Waterloo. 
The  work,  so  far  as  completed,  exhibits  the  skill  of 
the  Edinburgh  masonry ;  but,  like  the  Washington 
Monument,  in  our  Capital,  it  stands  unfinished  for 
the  want  of  pecuniary  means. 

My  guide  pointed  out  the  house  of  John  Knox,  the 
great  Presbyterian  Reformer.  It  is  a  granite  building, 
more  than  three  centuries  old. 

The  Parliament  House,  and  the  Chambers  or  Town 
Hall,  are  both  objects  of  interest  to  the  traveller. 

I  viewed  with  more  than  ordinary  interest  Holy- 
rood  Palace,  the  ancient  residence  of  Scottish  royalty. 
The  picture  gallery,  the  largest  hall  in  the  palace,  is 
filled  with  a  hundred  of  DeWitts'  daubs  of  Scottish 
kings.  In  this  hall,  however,  there  is  a  fine  portrait 
of  Queen  Mary.  At  the  end  of  the  gallery  are  four 
historical  paintings,  recently  sent  from  the  royal 
collection  at  Hampton  Court,  representing  James 
III  and  his  Queen,  Margaret  of  Denmark,  at  devotion. 
Queen  Mary's  apartments  are  the  most  interesting 
in  the  palace,  and  remain  pretty  much  in  the  same 
condition  as  when  last  occupied  by  the  unfortunate 
princess. 

Passing  through  the  Audience  Chamber,  you  enter 
Queen  Mary's  bedroom,  with  its  ancient  bed  and  other 
furniture. 

On  one  side  of  the  room  is  the  door  of  the  secret 
passage  by  which  the  conspirators,  headed  by  Lord 
Darnley,  entered.  Adjoining  is  the  closet  where 
they  found  their  victim,  Rizzio.  This  favorite  of  the 
queen  was  murdered  in   her  presence,  receiving  from 


European  Correspondence.  287 

the  hands  of  the  assassins  fifty  odd  stabs.  The  spot 
where  the  unfortunate  victim  lay  is  identified  by  marks 
of  blood  still  visible. 

The  old  Abbey  of  Holyrood  House  is  interesting 
'for  its  ancient  architecture  and  great  antiquities,  hav- 
ing been  built  in  1 128.  In  the  Royal  Vault  of  this 
old  church  were  deposited  the  remains  of  many  of 
the  kings  and  queens  of  Scotland. 

The  unfortunate  Rizzio's  grave  is  in  the  passage 
leading  from  the  quadrangle.  The  queen  was  sus- 
pected of  being  too  intimate  with  the  Italian  musician. 
Poor  Mary  was,  doubtless,  charged  with  many  crimes 
and  intrigues  of  which  she  was  innocent. 

History  does  not  furnish  a  character  of  the  gentler 
sex  of  whom  so  much  has  been  written  for  and 
against,  as  of  Mary  Queen  of  Scots;  one  class  of 
writers  paint  her  as  a  saint,  while  another  describes 
her  as  a  demon.  Her  guilt  or  innocence  will  not  be 
settled  until  the  Great  Book  is  opened  and  the  Judge 
of  the  good  and  bad  shall  pass  sentence.  Among 
her  most  notorious  female  enemies  were  Queen  Eliza- 
beth and  Catherine  de  Medicis. 

Mary's  father,  James  V,  died  before  his  successor 
was  permitted  to  look  upon  the  blue  skies  of  her 
native  hills. 

The  intrigues,  jealousies  and  bickerings  of  her  rela- 
tions and  supposed  friends,  made  it  necessary  that 
Mary  Stuart  should  be  sent  abroad. 

The  education  of  the  young  and  beautiful  girl,  in 
the  gay  and  fashionable  schools  of  France,  did  not 
improve  her  morals,  however  much  they  polished  her 
manners. 


288  European  Correspondence. 

The  jealousy  of  Elizabeth,  and  the  opposition  of 
the  Knoxites  to  Mary's  religion,  had  much  to  do  in 
hastening  her  career  to  an  early  and  untimely  issue. 

For  nineteen  long  years  the  young  Queen  of  Scot- 
land was  incarcerated  in  dismal  English  prisons.  On 
the  7th  of  February,  1588,  Mary  was  commanded  to 
prepare  for  death. 

At  8  o'clock,  next  morning,  Mary  repaired  to  the 
spot  appointed  for  her  execution,  placed  her  head  on 
the  fatal  block,  and  at  the  second  stroke  of  the  execu- 
tioner it  was  severed  from  her  body.  Such  was  the 
tragical  death  of  the  beautiful  Mary,  in  the  forty-fifth 
year  of  her  age.  This  inhuman  murder  was  the  dark- 
est of  the  many  dark  deeds  of  Queen  Elizabeth.  No 
person  can  visit  Scotland  without  feeling  an  interest 
in  Queen  Mary. 

A  few  hours  drive  from  Edinburgh,  and  I  find  my- 
self at  Linlithgow,  the  birthplace  of  the  celebrated 
Queen  of  Scotland. 

The  old  palace  is  a  massive  edifice,  situated  on  an 
eminence,  which  advances  a  little  way  into  the  lake. 
Although  in  ruins  it  is  visited  by  nearly  every  travel- 
ler, and  will  be  remembered  as  one  of  the  most  noted 
relics  in  Scotland. 

The  internal  architecture  is  fine,  but  the  exterior  is 
massive  and  unsightly,  as  it  is  not  relieved  by  win- 
dows. Royalty  in  those  days  did  not  enjoy  the 
luxury  of  windows.  Palaces  were  more  like  strong 
fortifications  than  the  residences  of  kings  and  ,queens. 

Edinburgh  is  celebrated  for  its  literary  and  educa- 
tional institutions.  Of  these  the  University  deserves 
the  first  notice. 


European  Correspondence.  289 

Its  library  contains  more  than  one  hundred  thou- 
sand volumes. 

Literature  and  the  professions  are  not  only  the 
glory  of  Edinburgh  but  affords  the  chief  source  of 
employment  to  her  population. 

A  stranger  is  struck  with  the  well-polished  brass 
plates  which  surmount  nearly  every  door  of  the  neat 
and  well  kept  private  residences. 

The  custom  or  fashion  of  deserting  these  comfort- 
able homes  during  the  summer  months,  prevails  here 
to  the  same  extent  as  in  London,  Paris,  and  other 
large  European  cities. 

But  change  is  the  fashion,  and  I  must  not  linger 
longer  in  this  literary  city. 

Ever  yours, 

G.  W.  W. 

Edinburgh,  October,  1866. 


37 


LETTER    TWENTY-EIGHTH 


City  of  Aberdeen — Home  of  William  Birnie — Inver- 
ness— Caledonian  Canal — Falls  of  Foyers — Urquhart 
Castle  —  Language  of  the  Highlanders  —  Oban  — 
Fort  William — Dunolly  Castle — FingaVs  Cave — Iona 
Island — Beautiful  Lakes — A  Fla?ik  Movement. 

A  swift  railway  ride  of  one  hundred  and  thirty-five 
miles  from  Edinburgh,  through  a  picturesque  coun- 
try, and  I  arrive  safely  at  Aberdeen,  a  city  doubly 
dear  to  me,  as  it  was  once  the  home  of  my  late  friend 
Wm.  Birnie,  of  South  Carolina,  and  is  now  the  home 
of  his  brother,  Mr.  George  Birnie,  who  some  half  a 
century  ago  was  a  merchant  of  Charleston,  S.  C.  I 
spent  a  pleasant  day  with  Mr.  Birnie  at  Johnston, 
near  Aberdeen.  He  is  a  gentleman  of  the  old  Scotch 
school.  Although  it  has  been  many  years  since  he 
was  in  Charleston,  yet  he  felt  a  deep  interest  and 
sympathy  for  her  people  during  the  trials  and  perils 
of  the  Confederacy. 

The  charter  of  this  substantial  town  dates  back  to 
William  the  Lion,  in  1178.  Union  street,  which  is  a 
mile  in  length,  would  do  credit  to  London.  It  pre- 
sents a  vista  of  white  granite,  which  gives  this  street 
a  grand  and  substantial  appearance. 

A  few  days  since  a  handsome  bronze  monumental 
statue  of  the  late  Prince  Albert  was  uncovered  here, 
in  the  presence  of  a  large  concourse  of  people. 


European  Correspondence.  291 

The  Roman  Catholics  are  building,  near  Union 
street,  one  of  the  finest  granite  cathedrals  to  be  found 
in  Scotland.  The  harbor,  which  opens  into  the  Ger- 
man Ocean,  with  its  quays  and  piers,  stretches  into 
the  sea  two  thousand  three  hundred  feet ;  some  four 
millions  of  dollars  have  been  expended  on  the  im- 
provement of  the  harbor  and  the  formation  of  the 
docks,  which  covers  an  area  of  thirty-four  acres.  The 
tonnage  of  vessels  registered  as  belonging  to  the  port 
is  upwards  of  eighty  thousand  tons.  There  are  in 
Aberdeen  and  its  vicinity  extensive  factories  of  wool, 
cotton,  flax,  paper,  combs  and  iron,  which  employ 
fifteen  thousand  hands.  The  dressed  granite  stones, 
such  as  are  used  on  Union  street,  form  a  staple 
export.  Steamers  ply  regularly  between  Aberdeen, 
London,  Leith,  and  Hull. 

A  pleasant  ride  of  one  hundred  miles  from  Aber- 
deen, through  a  fine  country,  and  I  arrive  safely  at 
Inverness.  This  town,  of  twelve  thousand  five  hun- 
dred inhabitants,  is  considered  headquarters  for  the 
hardy  Highlanders ;  here  I  find  large  stores  filled 
with  the  handiwork  of  these  industrious,  frugal  people. 

Inverness  is  situated  at  the  mouth  of  the  River 
Ness,  at  the  spot  where  the  basins  of  the  Moray  and 
Bennly  Firths,  and  the  great  Glen  of  Scotland,  meet 
one  another. 

I  am  now  on  the  celebrated  Caledonian  Canal, 
which,  in  its  day,  was  the  mammoth  work  of  the 
Highlanders  of  Scotland.  It  required  fifty  hard 
years'  labor  to  complete  it,  at  a  cost  of  many  mil- 
lions of  dollars. 


292  European  Correspondence. 

By  reference  to  a  map  of  Scotland,  it  will  be  seen 
the  natural  channels  formed  by  the  lakes,  beginning 
near  Inverness  and  running  nearly  due  south,  consti- 
tute a  large  link  in  this  important  public  highway, 
which  connects  the  waters  of  the  German  and  Atlan- 
tic Oceans.  To  one  accustomed  to  the  lightning  rail- 
way trains,  speeding  you  a  mile  a  minute,  it  is 
poco-a-poco  business  to  mope  along  on  a  canal  boat. 
But  the  varied  and  beautiful  scenery,  which  is  spread 
out  on  every  side,  compensates  for  this  slow  and  tedi- 
ous mode  of  travelling.  When  passengers  are  tired 
of  the  steamer  they  amuse  themselves  by  walking, 
and  have  no  fears  of  being  left. 

Fourteen  miles  from  Inverness  are  the  falls  of  Foyers. 

"  Among  the  healthy  hills  and  rugged  woods, 
The  roaring  Foyers  pours  his  mossy  floods, 
Till  full  he  dashes  on  the  rocky  mounds, 
Where  through  a  shapeless  breach  his  stream  resounds." 

To  one  who  has  looked  upon  Niagara,  with  its  ocean 
of  water  plunging  over  a  precipitous  precipice  of 
nearly  two  hundred  feet,  these  European  falls,  which 
are  so  much  admired,  appear,  when  compared  to  the 
great  American  cataract,  mere  Tom  Thumb  affairs. 
But  a  waterfall  is  to  me  a  pleasant  sight,  if  the 
stream  tumbles  only  over  a  few  feet  of  cliffs  and  rug- 
ged rocks. 

Professor  Wilson  describes  Foyers  as  "the  most 
magnificent  cataract  in  Britain."  In  point  of  magni- 
tude and  volume  of  water  it  will  not  compare  even  with 
Tallulah.  There  are  in  the  vicinity  of  Nacoochee  Val- 
ley, Georgia,  three  falls  equal  to  this  Scotch  cascade. 


European  Correspondence.  293 

The  high  and  naked  mountain,  Mealfournoinie,  is 
seen  from  this  point,  rising  almost  perpendicularly- 
some  three  thousand  one  hundred  feet ;  and  near  by- 
are  the  ruins  of  Urquhart  Castle.  This  ancient  fort 
looks  down  upon  the  lake,  which  at  this  point  is 
said  to  be  one  hundred  and  thirty  fathoms  deep. 
Near  by  is  Loch  Mickly,  a  small  but  very  pretty  lake. 
Loch  Ness  is  nearly  twenty-four  miles  in  length,  and 
one  and  a  fourth  miles  in  breadth ;  the  depth  is  so 
great  it  never  freezes. 

We  next  enter  Loch  Oich ;  this  lake  forms  the 
summit  level  of  the  Caledonian  Canal.  Loch  Lochy 
is  ten  miles  in  length  by  one  in  breadth.  Here  you 
have  a  fine  view  of  Ben  Nevis,  the  highest  mountain  in 
Scotland,  being  nearly  five  thousand  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  sea,  and  the  circumference  at  its  base  is 
twenty-five  miles.  It  has  the  appearance  of  a  huge 
pile  of  granitic  masses.  On  its  rugged  brow  vegeta- 
ble life  does  not  exist.  Some  of  our  party  stopped 
for  the  purpose  of  climbing  to  its  dizzy,  snow-capped 
summit.  If  I  could  spare  a  day,  should  be  pleased 
to  make  the  adventure. 

We  reached  Fort  William  Saturday  night,  and 
spent  a  quiet  Sabbath  there,  and  heard  a  sermon,  but 
it  was  all  Dutch  to  me.  I  did  not  understand  the 
discourse,  as  it  was  in  the  Gaelic  tongue. 

The  language  of  the  Highlanders  is  the  Erse  or 
Gaelic — a  Celtic  dialect  bearing  no  analogy  to  Eng- 
lish or  French.  The  Highlanders  comprising  the 
Gaelic  family  are  supposed  to  have  been  refugees 
from  Ireland ;  their  alphabet  consists  of  eighteen  let- 
ters— k,   q,   x,   y   and  z  are  wanting.     Their  dress  is 


294  European  Correspondence. 

as  peculiar  as  their  language.  I  have  seen  nothing 
like  it  at  home  or  abroad.  They  wear  a  short  coat, 
a  plaid  vest,  and  a  kind  of  petticoat  reaching  scarcely 
to  the  knees,  which  are  left  entirely  uncovered ;  and 
as  these  limbs  have  been  exercised  pretty  freely  in 
the  open  air,  you  may  well  imagine  that,  however 
useful,  they  are  not  particularly  ornamental. 

The  lower  part  of  the  legs  are  covered  with  short 
hose.  The  garments  are  made  of  a  checkered  stuff 
of  various  flashy  colors.  On  the  head  is  worn  a 
bonnet  somewhat  resembling  a  hat  without  a  rim. 
When  in  full  dress  a  broad  piece  of  tartan  is  worn 
around  the  body,  after  the  fashion  of  the  Roman 
toga. 

The  women  wear  high  white  caps  without  bonnets. 
Their  costumes  are  so  arranged  as  to  display  a  sub- 
stantial pair  of  ankles. 

These  Highlands,  or  I  may  say  the  greater  portion 
of  Scotland,  was  originally  inhabited  by  savage  tribes 
of  shepherd's  and  hunters,  who  were  polygamists 
and  idolaters.  They  were  brave,  hardy,  and  lived  in 
miserable  huts,  disdaining  the  use  of  clothes. 

The  Romans  vainly  strove  to  conquer  them.  They 
made  treaties  which  would  last  only  so  long  as  the 
Roman  soldiers  remained  in  arms  amongst  them. 
The  descendants  of  this  almost  barbarous  race,  are  a 
hardy  and  admirably  framed  people,  full  of  bone  and 
muscle.  They  are  generally  void  of  beauty  or  humor, 
but  are  remarkably  shrewd.  In  religion  they  are  as 
stubborn  as  was  the  iron  John  Knox.  Scotchmen  do 
not  like  to  make  promises,  but  when  made  you  can 
rely  upon  them. 


European  Correspondence.  295 

Just  before  arriving  at  Fort  William,  a  mountaineer 
drove  to  the  boat  a  flock  of  sheep,  and  as  I  was 
anxious  to  know  something  about  the  mode  of  raising 
these  useful  animals,  I  began  to  question  him  on  the 
subject.  The  poor  fellow  shook  his  head.  I  regretted 
his  misfortune  in  being  both  deaf  and  dumb.  He  was 
shortly  after  joined  by  one  of  his  comrades,  and  I  was 
soon  convinced  that  he  could  hear  and  speak  as  well 
as  any  one — he  spoke,  however,  in  the  Gaelic  tongue, 
but  did  not  understand  English.  Fort  William  has 
a  population  of  three  thousand,  is  one  of  the  keys  of 
the  Highlands,  and  is  provided  with  a  bomb-proof 
magazine,  barracks  and  the  like.  It  is  surrounded  by 
the  wildest  mountain  scenery.  We  enter  Loch  Eil, 
one  of  the  prettiest  lakes  in  the  chain.  Loch  Linnhe, 
is  the  last  of  the  lakes  through  which  we  pass  from 
Inverness  to  Oban.  It  is  a  beautiful  scene  when  the 
sunlight  guilds  the  mountain  points,  and  casts  streaks 
of  light  on  the  placid  water  inverting  the  mountains, 
trees  and  houses  on  the  borders  of  the  lake,  producing 
a  lovely  and  almost  indescribable  lake  picture. 

And  now  we  are  at  Oban,  the  great  rendezvous  for 
tourists  to  the  Highlands,  the  lakes  and  mountains. 
The  town  is  handsomely  situated  on  the  margin  of 
a  semi-circular  bay,  which  boasts  of  a  harborage  for 
vessels  of  the  largest  class.  There  is  a  brisk  trade 
carried  on  here  with  Glasgow  and  Ireland. 

About  half  a  mile  from  Oban,  are  the  ruins  of  the 
old  castle  of  Dunolly,  which  are  situated  on  a  bold 
and  precipitous  promontory  overhanging  the  bay  of 
Oban. 


296  European  Correspondence. 

It  was  my  intention  to  visit  the  Giant's  Causeway 
in  Ireland,  but  a  party  that  we  met  here  gave  us  such 
a  glowing  account  of  Fingal's  Cave,  which  could  be 
visited  from  Oban  in  a  day,  we  decided  to  look  upon 
this  world's  wonder  and  forego  the  trip  to  Belfast,  at 
which  point  we  were  to  sail  for  the  great  Irish  Cause- 
way. 

Leaving  the  busy  pier  of  Oban  in  a  fine  steamer, 
we  sailed  south,  feeling  our  way  cautiously  as  we 
wound  through  narrow  channels,  filled  with  numerous 
small  islands. 

A  few  hours  and  we  are  in  the  Sound  of  Mull, 
which  divides  that  island  from  the  Continent  of 
Scotland.  This  small  island  is  filled  with  lakes,  and 
has  running  through  the  centre  a  range  of  lofty 
mountains.  Here  and  there  are  old  castles,  giving  it 
an  interesting  and  picturesque  appearance. 

About  eight  miles  from  the  western  coast  of  Mull, 
is  the  small  island  of  Staffa. 

We  are  now  conveyed  from  the  steamer  in  row- 
boats,  into  the  mouth  of  Fingal's  Cave. 

The  sailors  are  provided  with  hooks  and  short 
poles,  which  they  use  with  dexterity  in  guarding  the 
boat  from  being  driven  against  the  rocks,  by  the 
"  mighty  surge  that  ebbs  and  swells." 

We  now  penetrate  a  cave,  one  side  of  which  ap- 
pears bent  like  the  ribs  of  a  ship.  The  opposite  side 
is  made  up  of  horizontal  columns,  resembling  the 
surface  of  a  honey-comb.  This  cave  is  thirty  feet  in 
height,  and  eighteen  in  breadth,  its  length  being  one 
hundred  and  thirty  feet. 


European  Correspondence.  297 

Next  occurs  the  Rock  or  Buachaille,  a  huge  pile  of 
columns  thirty  feet  high.  These  form  a  colonnade 
along  the  whole  face  of  the  cliff  to  the  entrance  of 
Fingal's  Cave.  This  cave  has  an  archway  seventy- 
five  feet  in  height,  supporting  a  massive  entablature, 
and  receding  about  two  hundred  and  thirty  feet. 

The  entire  front  is  made  up  of  numerous  ranges  of 
gigantic  columns,  beautifully  pointed.  The  roof  ex- 
hibits a  rich  grouping  of  overhanging  pillars,  many 
of  them  looking  like  white  marble. 

Nine  miles  south  of  Staffa  is  the  celebrated  Island 
of  Iona.  In  this  lone  island  Saint  Columbia,  an  Irish 
Christian  preacher,  made  his  abode  as  early  as  the 
sixth  century. 

The  monks  subsequently  resided  here.  The  remains 
of  an  ancient  church,  nunnery  and  chapel,  are  still 
standing.  The  cathedral  is  in  the  form  of  a  cross. 
Whatever  may  be  its  age,  it  now  possesses  enough  of 
"  hoar  antiquity  "  to  throw  a  solemn  grandeur  over 
the  scene. 

A  massive  square  tower,  rising  seventy  feet,  marks 
the  graves  of  the  early  inhabitants  of  this  island. 

Staffa  and  Iona,  with  their  surroundings,  are  the 
wonders  of  Scotland.  Every  traveller  who  makes  a 
tour  of  the  Highlands  should  visit  them  ;  my  word 
for  it  they  will  be  well  repaid  for  their  trouble.  Fin- 
gal's Cave  is  the  gem  of  the  islands,  and  a  great  nat- 
ural curiosity. 

Outside  of  Switzerland  I  have  looked  upon  no 
scenery  more  beautiful  than  is  seen  in  the  Highlands. 
38 


298  European  Correspondence. 

Here  you  find  the  wildest  of  the  wilds  of  Scotland ; 
huge  mountains,  precipitous  cliffs,  beautiful  lakes  and 
waterfalls. 

A  tour  of  Scotland  is  not  made  without  visiting  the 
lakes  and  passing  through  the  Caledonian  Canal. 

Among  the  numerous  beautiful  lakes,  Loch  Lom- 
ond is  queen  of  them  all.  Here  I  could  linger  a 
month;  but  I  am  crazy  to  see  the  loved  ones  at  home, 
and  must  hasten  westward.  And  now  we  are  wind- 
ing our  way  slowly  and  cautiously  up  the  narrow, 
crowded  river,  Clyde.  We  were  due  at  Glasgow  at 
6  P.  M. ;  but  our  numerous  cargo  of  men  and  sheep 
detained  us  until  the  sun  had  set  and  the  stars  had 
risen  many  hours. 

Being  informed  that  we  were  in  a  "few  miles  of  Glas- 
gow," I  told  my  travelling  companion  that  I  was  de- 
termined to  be  one  of  the  first  to  touch  land,  and 
made  preparations  accordingly.  About  9  o'clock  our 
steamer  drew  up  to  a  broad  landing,  and  I  heard  some 
of  the  passengers  say  "  Glasgow."  A  minute  more 
and  I  was  on  terra  firma.  Starting  in  haste  for  a  car- 
riage, I  was  stopped  at  a  gate  by  a  man  who  demanded 
"  dockage."     I  said  : 

"  Do  you  charge  for  entering  Glasgow  ?" 

"  Glasgow  ?  indeed,  maun,  yere  five  miles  from 
Glasgow  !"  was  the  stunning  reply  of  the  gate-keeper. 

I  returned  hastily  to  the  boat  and  arrived  just  in 
time  to  see  her  steam  up  the  Clyde.  I  inquired  of 
a  hackman  what  his  charge  would  be  to  carry  me  to 
Glasgow. 

"  Four  shillings,"  he  replied. 


European  Correspondence.  299 

"  Beat  that  boat  to  Glasgow  and  I  will  give  you 
eight." 

"  It  shall  be  done." 

And  away  we  steamed  as  fast  as  horse-power  could 
carry  us.  In  quick  time  I  was  safely  landed  at  the 
Queen's  Hotel,  a  quarter  of  an  hour  in  advance  of 
the  passengers  by  the  steamer. 

By  this  flank  movement  I  transferred  the   laugh 
from  myself  to  my  fellow-travellers. 
As  ever, 

G.  W.  W. 

Glasgow,  October,   1866. 


LETTER  TWENTY-NINTH. 


Glasgow — The  Royal  Exchange — Statue  of  the  Duke  of 
Wellington — The  Cathedral  of  Glasgow — Argyle 
Street — Stirling — Assassination  of  the  Earl  of  Doug- 
lass— The  Wallace  Monument — Adieu  to  Scotland. 

Here  I  am,  in  the  splendid  City  of  Glasgow,  the 
commercial  metropolis  of  Scotland,  and  one  of  the 
finest  cities  in  Great  Britain,  being  the  third  in  point 
of  wealth,  population,  manufacturing  and  commercial 
importance. 

It  is  one  of  the  oldest  cities  in  Scotland,  having 
been  founded  by  St.  Mungo  as  early  as  the  sixth  cen- 
tury. Its  commercial  enterprise  was  first  devoted  to 
the  tobacco  trade.     Large  fortunes  were  said  to  have 


300  European  Correspondence. 

been  made  by  traffic  in  this  nauseous  weed.  Many 
of  the  finest  dwellings  in  the  city  were  built  by  the 
"  tobacco  lords." 

The  little  dispute  between  England  and  her  trans- 
Atlantic  Colony,  known  as  the  American  "  Rebellion," 
turned  the  attention  of  the  citizens  to  the  manufactory 
of  cotton  goods.  Since  that  period,  Glasgow  has  not 
only  greatly  increased  in  the  manufacture  of  cotton, 
but  in  silk,  linen,  iron,  ship  building,  and  chemicals. 

The  extent  of  the  manufacturing  interests  of  Glas- 
gow is  not  generally  known  abroad.  It  is  estimated 
that  forty  thousand  hand-loom  weavers  are  employed 
by  Glasgow  manufactories.  The  total  number  of 
spindles  in  motion  in  Glasgow  is  believed  to  be  two 
millions!  The  consumption  of  cotton,  in  1861,  was 
one  hundred  and  seventy  thousand  bales. 

Another  source  of  great  wealth  and  employment  is 
the  iron  trade.  There  are  five  malleable  iron  works 
in  and  near  the  city,  producing  annually  eighty  thou- 
sand tons. 

Glasgow  abounds  in  public  buildings.  The  Royal 
Exchange  is  a  magnificent  edifice,  in  the  Corinthian 
style.  Its  cost  was  a  quarter  of  a  million  of  dollars. 
This  grand  structure  is  a  credit  to  the  merchant 
princes  of  Glasgow. 

In  front  of  the  Exchange  a  costly  equestrian  statue 
in  bronze,  of  the  Duke  of  Wellington,  has  been  erect- 
ed. On  this  monument  are  recorded  the  principal 
battles  of  the  great  English  warrior.  So  long  as  the 
names  of  the  military  heroes  are  perpetuated  by 
monuments  and  statues,  and  their  memories  cherished 


European  Correspondence.  301 

and  worshipped,  just  so  long  will  men  be  found  to 
stain  their  hands  in  the  blood  of  their  fellow-creatures. 

It  will  require  ages  to  recover  from  the  butcheries 
in  the  late  civil  war  in  our  own  land ;  and  but  look  at 
the  wholesale  murders  of  the  past  few  months,  engaged 
in  by  the  brothers  of  a  common  Fatherland. 

War  seems  necessary  to  make  Presidents  and  great 
men.  Were  I  a  preacher,  the  burthen  of  my  dis- 
courses would  be  against  wars  and  intemperance. 
These  two  great  evils  have  been  for  ages  the  curse  of 
the  human  race,  and  I  fear  ever  will  be. 

Among  the  relics  of  ancient  architecture,  is  the 
Cathedral  of  Glasgow.  This  old  minster  was  erected 
in  1 133,  in  the  reign  of  David  I.  The  Government 
has  recently  renewed  certain  parts  of  the  building, 
which  had  fallen  into  decay. 

Some  ten  years  since  a  committee  of  citizens 
attempted  to  enhance  the  beauty  of  this  ancient 
edifice,  by  a  series  of  very  expensive  stained  glass 
windows,  which  work  was  executed  in  Munich,  on  a 
concerted  scheme  of  illustration.  It  was  one  of  those 
fashionable  moves  patronized  by  the  gentry  and  rich 
men  of  Glasgow  and  Scotland.  Eighty-one  windows 
have  been  gorgeously  decorated  with  Scriptural  illus- 
trations. 

We  are  told  by  the  Good  Book  that  it  is  not  well 
to  put  new  wine  into  old  bottles,  or  mend  old  gar- 
ments with  new  cloth. 

The  freshly  painted  windows,  representing  the 
expulsion  of  Adam  and  Eve  from  Paradise,  is  not  in 
harmony  with  the  subdued  tone  which  surrounds  the 


302  European  Correspondence. 

old  edifice,  and  which  has  on  its  every  feature  the 
wrinkles  of  many  centuries.  You  might  with  the 
same  propriety  paint  an  innocent  child's  head  on  the 
shoulders  of  a  decrepit  old  man,  and  call  it  a  perfect 
picture.  The  newly  painted  face  might  be  executed  in 
the  best  style  of  a  Michael  Angelo,  and  yet  it  would 
not  be  in  harmony  with  the  other  parts  of  the  picture. 

The  names  of  the  artists  and  donors  are,  however, 
published,  which  will  doubtless  be  full  compensation 
to  some  of  these  rich  men  who  have  been  so  lavish 
of  their  money. 

The  old  building,  notwithstanding  its  modern  dis- 
figuration, is  well  worthy  of  a  visit,  and  is  considered 
one  of  the  eight  wonders  of  Glasgow. 

On  the  Continent  of  Europe  the  architecture  of 
antique  buildings  is  seldom  interfered  with,  beyond 
preserving  them  from  decay. 

Glasgow  is  situated  on  the  Clyde,  which  river  has, 
at  an  expense  of  ten  millions  of  dollars,  been  made 
navigable  to  the  Atlantic  Ocean. 

The  harbor  is  a  mammoth  basin,  covering  an  area 
of  some  fifty  acres.  It  is  four  hundred  feet  wide,  and 
more  than  a  mile  in  length,  with  large  wharves 
thronged  with  vessels,  bearing  the  flags  of  many 
nations.  Among  these  I  recognized  the  stars  and 
stripes  of  my  own  native  land. 

This  gigantic  work  speaks  volumes  for  the  enter- 
prise of  the  Glasgow  merchants.  Here  was  a  narrow, 
shallow  stream,  with  a  depth  of  water  of  only  a  few 
feet,  which,  by  widening  and  dredging,  now  admits 
first-class  merchant  vessels. 


European  Correspondence.  303 

This  wise  outlay  of  money,  for  the  improvement  of 
the  navigation  of  the  Clyde,  has  almost  doubled  the 
wealth  and  population  of  Glasgow.  On  this  river 
was  the  first  successful  application  of  steam  to  ships 
as  a  motive  power. 

The  Glasgow  Bridge  is  a  noble  structure,  faced  with 
Aberdeen  granite,  and  consists  of  seven  arches,  ex- 
tending, altogether,  five  hundred  feet  in  length,  and  is 
sixty  feet  wide,  being  ten  feet  wider  than  the  famous 
London  Bridge. 

Argyle  street  is  the  Broadway  of  Glasgow.  For 
nearly  three  miles  it  is  bordered  with  splendid  estab- 
lishments, filled  with  stocks  of  merchandise,  superior 
to  anything  I  saw  even  in  London. 

At  mid-day  the  stream  of  active  commercial  life 
flowing  through  this  street,  is  refreshing  to  look  upon. 
This  prosperous  manufacturing  and  commercial  city 
is  not  unmindful  of  the  fine  arts  and  horticulture. 
Its  gallery  of  paintings  is  not,  however,  what  you 
would  expect  to  find  in  a  rich  city  of  nearly  half  a 
million  of  inhabitants. 

The  Botanical  Garden,  which  is  on  the  banks 
of  the  Kelim,  has  a  fine  collection  of  indiginous 
and  exotic  plants.  The  grounds  are  tastefully  laid 
out. 

The  corporation  of  Glasgow  have  recently  pur- 
chased one  hundred  acres  of  land,  for  a  public  park, 
on  the  south  side  of  the  city. 

It  is  approached  by  one  of  the  handsomest  thor- 
oughfares in  Glasgow,  extending,  as  it  does,  in  nearly 
a  straight  line  from  Argyle  street. 


304  European  Correspo?idence. 

Glasgow  is  bountifully  supplied  with  water  brought 
in  pipes,  at  great  expense,  forty-eight  miles,  from 
Loch  Katrine. 

Twenty-one  million  gallons  of  pure  water  flows 
daily  into  the  city.  In  proportion  to  the  population, 
not  even  the  great  Croton  of  New  York  exceeds  the 
Katrine  stream. 

Thirty  miles  from  Glasgow  is  Stirling.  This  city  is 
beautifully  situated  on  the  River  Forth  ;  population 
thirteen  thousand.  Its  chief  attraction  is  the  old  castle, 
which  stands  on  the  brow  of  a  precipitous  rock,  over- 
looking Stirling  and  the  surrounding  country,  afford- 
ing a  beautiful  and  extensive  view.  This  castle  is 
associated  with  Scotland  from  an  early  period  ;  Alex- 
ander the  First  having  died  in  it  in  1124. 

About  the  time  of  the  accession  of  the  house  of 
Stewart,  Stirling  Castle  first  became  a  royal  residence. 
It  was  the  birthplace  of  James  II  and  James  V. 

The  palace  was  built  by  James  V.  Its  walls  are  of 
polished  stone. 

In  the  northwest  corner  is  the  Douglass  room,  in 
which  William,  Earl  of  Douglass,  was  assassinated 
by  James  II. 

The  king  invited  Douglass  to  meet  him  in  Stirling 
Castle  under  the  protection  of  a  safe  conduct,  and 
endeavored  to  persuade  him  to  abandon  his  confed- 
eracy with  Crawford  and  Ross ;  Douglass  refusing, 
James  drew  his  dagger  and  stabbed  the  earl,  exclaim- 
ing, "  If  thou  wilt  not  break  the  bond  this  shall !" 

The  Wallace  monument  here  is  two  hundred  and 
twenty  feet  high — or  will  be  when  completed. 


,-3&- 


European  Correspondence.   •  305 

It  is  built  on  a  mound  of  rocks,  which  rises  some 
five  hundred  feet  above  the  town.  From  this  point 
is  a  varied  and  extensive  prospect. 

To-morrow  I  must  bid  adieu  to  dear  old  Scotland  ! 
One  of  the  most  interesting  weeks  of  my  life  has  been 
spent  in  looking  upon  its  fine  cities  and  towns,  in 
examining  carefully  its  mineral  and  agricultural  dis- 
tricts, sailing  upon  its  beautiful  lakes,  traversing  the 
highlands,  threading  its  canals  and  rivers,  and  admir- 
ing its  lofty  mountains. 

I  was  surprised  at  the  extent  and  perfection  agricul- 
ture is  carried  on  in  Scotland,  and  still  more  surprised 
to  find  that  the  most  of  the  large  farms  were  not 
owned  by  the  occupants,  but  under  lease  for  a  term  of 
years.  Many  of  the  tenants  pay  a  rent  of  five  to  ten 
thousand  dollars  per  annum,  and  yet  they  grow  rich, 
because  they  get  their  labor  cheap,  and  are  thorough 
masters  of  their  profession.  They  know  when  work 
is  well  done,  which  is  one  of  the  secrets  of  their  suc- 
cess. They  make  agriculture  as  much  a  study  as  the 
professional  man  or  the  merchant  does  his  business. 
I  pity  the  poor  and  laboring  classes  in  Scotland.  The 
question  with  them  is  not  how  much  of  their  hard 
earnings  they  can  lay  up  for  old  age,  but  whether 
they  can  procure  the  simplest  food  for  their  numerous 
household.  The  lower  classes  live  on  oat  meal  por- 
ridge and  skim  milk  for  breakfast ;  potatoes  and  oat 
bread  for  dinner,  with  beer  and  porridge  again  at 
night.  The  poor  classes,  both  in  the  cities  and  rural 
districts  of  Scotland,  live  meanly. 
39 


306  European  Correspondence. 

I  was  surprised  to  find  in  their  hovels  such  a  want 
of  cleanliness  and  comfort.  It  is  a  pleasant  thing  to 
be  a  British  subject,  if  you  have  money  ;  but  a  poor 
man  with  a  large  family,  in  the  Old  World,  has  before 
him  a  life  of  toil  and  struggle. 

Where  extreme  poverty  exists,  vice  is  to  be  found; 
and  misery  and  vice  are  twin  spirits.  Things  are  not 
in  the  Old  and  New  World  as  I  would  have  them, 
but  there  is  much  good  in  both  hemispheres. 

There  is  here  a  vast  amount  of  knowledge,  skill, 
energy,  and  enterprise,  and  much  to  make  one  happy. 
But  happiness  comes  of  useful  employment.  Idleness 
is  the  bane  of  life.  Satan  marshals  his  armies  from 
the  overflowing  camp  of  do-nothings.  But  enough. 
I  have  not  time  to  moralize. 

G.  W.  W. 

Glasgow,  Scotland,  October,  1866. 


LETTER  THIRTIETH 


London,  its  Principal  Places  of  Interest —  Visit  to  Man- 
chester—  Mr.  Bright — Home  of  my  Forefathers — 
Wales,  its  Iron  Manufactories. 

In  London  again  !  Yes,  I  am  once  more  in  this 
great  throbbing  heart  of  the  British  Lion.  London 
is  a  little  world  in  itself,  and  is  the  centre  of  finance 
for  all  nations. 

A  merchant  of  New  York  buys  a  cargo  of  coffee 
in  South  America,  and  pays  for  it  by  a  bill  of  exchange 
on  London ;  and  so  of  most  other  articles  of  mer- 
chandise. 

This  mammoth  city,  like  a  valued  friend,  improves 
on  acquaintance. 

After  leaving  Glasgow,  I  visited  the  great  manufac- 
turing town  of  Manchester,  and  there  heard  the  Hon. 
John  Bright  deliver  one  of  his  great  harangues,  to  a 
mixed  multitude  of  fifty  thousand  people. 

Mr.  Bright  is  a  fine  specimen  of  a  John  Bull,  and 
looks  as  if  he  enjoyed  good  beef  and  plum  puddings. 
He  is  what  we  should  call  in  the  States  a  political 
demagogue.  I,  however,  like  his  republican  and  tem- 
perance principles. 

Manchester  is  one  of  the  busiest  places  on  the 
globe.  The  immense  quantity  of  coal  used  here  fills 
the  atmosphere  with  smoke,  which  is  much  more  dis- 


308  European   Correspondence. 

agreeable  than  the  London  fogs.  The  cotton  lords 
in  Manchester  are  for  free  trade — that  is,  they  wish  to 
have  their  goods  enter  free  of  duty  into  all  foreign 
markets,  but  would  like  a  tax  upon  imports,  except 
breadstuffs. 

From  Manchester,  I  made  a  hasty  run  through 
Wales.  I  wanted  to  find  the  home  of  my  forefathers ; 
it  was,  however,  like  looking  for  diamonds  in  a  coal- 
pit 

I  find  little  else  beside  mountains  and  iron  manu- 
factories. The  iron  products  of  the  small  district  of 
Wales  is  greater  than  the  whole  of  the  United  States, 
and  about  one-fourth  of  that  made  in  Great  Britain. 

In  the  cities,  English  is  taught  and  spoken,  but  in 
the  rural  districts  they  adhere  to  the  Welsh.  The 
inhabitants  are  a  hardy,  honest-looking  people. 

Before  making  a  tour  of  England,  Scotland,  and 
Wales,  I  spent  ten  days  in  London.  It  was  my  inten- 
tion to  describe  the  principal  places  of  interest  visited 
by  me  here,  but  my  correspondence  is  already  too 
voluminous.  I  shall,  therefore,  only  attempt  a  passing 
notice  of  the  most  striking  objects  in  this  world's 
renowned  metropolis.  One  of  the  grandest  sights  in 
London  is  St.  Paul's,  the  Cathedral  Church  of  the  See 
of  London.  Its  lofty  spire,  which  has  been  standing 
two  centuries,  is  hid  in  the  foggy,  smoky  atmosphere 
that  surrounds  it.  The  interior  of  this  magnificent 
building  fills  one  with  awe  and  wonder  as  he  gazes 
upon  the  grand  arches  which  encircles  the  dome. 
From  the  immense  walls  and  pillars,  look  down  upon 
you  the  marble  forms  of  the  dead.      Nearly  every 


European   Correspondence.  309 

niche  and  corner  in  the  vast  hall  is  filled  with  statues 
and  paintings  of  departed  heroes.  It  struck  me  as 
rather  a  strange  place  to  perpetuate  the  memories  of 
military  characters — in  a  house  consecrated  to  the 
worship  of  God.  This  architectural  wonder  of  Europe 
stands  on  the  summit  of  Ludgate  Hill,  towering  above 
the  surrounding  buildings. 

As  it  is  built  of  massive  stone,  it  stands  a  substan- 
tial monument  to  the  renowned  architect,  Sir  Chris- 
topher Wren.  From  St.  Paul's  we  proceeded  to 
Westminister  Abbey,  and  spent  a  few  hours  in  con- 
templating this  gem  of  ancient  architecture. 

Within  the  consecrated  walls  of  the  vast  mauso- 
leum "  England  garners  up  her  great."  In  the  "  Poet's 
Corner"  you  find  yourself  surrounded  by  the  tombs 
of  the  mighty  dead.  On  one  of  these  is  inscribed, 
"  Oh  Rare  Ben  Johnson  !" 

Near  by  are  the  monuments  of  Milton,  Spencer, 
Thompson,  Dryden,  Gray,  Addison  ;  and  there,  also, 
is  the  immortal  Shakespeare,  in  graceful  majesty, 
holding  a  scroll  in  his  hand ;  here,  too,  is  Gay,  with 
these  odd  lines  engraved  below  his  bust — 

'  "  Life  is  a  jest,  and  all  things  show  it ; 
I  thought  so  once,  and  now  I  know  it." 

Gay  is  not  the  only  one  who  has  realized  the  full 
import  of  these  lines. 

The  side  chapels  are  filled  with  tombs  of  kingly 
families.  The  most  interesting  of  these  is  that  of 
the  unfortunate  Mary,  Queen  of  Scots,  which  was 
erected  by  her  son,  James   I.     I   did  not  take  much 


3  i.o  European  Correspondence. 

pleasure  in  looking  upon  the  magnificent  tomb  of 
Queen  Elizabeth.  She  was  a  woman  of  rare  endow- 
ments, but  full  of  jealousies  and  intrigues.  We  could 
not,  however,  expect  anything  better  of  the  daughter 
of  Henry  VIII. 

Near  the  Abbey  are  the  Houses  of  Parliament. 
The  new  palace  is  one  of  the  most  magnificent  build- 
ings in  Europe ;  said  to  be  the  largest  Gothic  edifice 
in  the  world.  We  next  visited  the  Old  Tower  of 
London,  built  by  Julius  Caesar,  and  which  is  so  full 
of  historical  associations.  It  is  surrounded  by  high 
walls,  which  you  enter  through  gates  strongly 
guarded.  We  were  shown  through  the  rooms  by  a 
man  who  mechanically  described  the  various  sights. 
We  saw  the  block  upon  which  Lady  Jane  Grey  laid 
her  head ;  also  the  axe  which  severed  it  from  her 
body.  Just  before  this  occurred  she  exclaimed, 
"  Lord,  into  thy  hands  I  commit  my  spirit !"  In 
those  days,  royalty  was  no  security  for  life  or  prop- 
erty. 

We  were  next  shown  the  cell  where  the  illustrious 
Sir  Walter  Raleigh  was  incarcerated  fourteen  long 
years.  The  walls  of  the  dark,  damp  prison,  are  seven- 
teen feet  thick.  Within  this  Raleigh  wrote  the  history 
of  the  world. 

This  ancient  fortress  was  used  for  five  centuries  as 
a  palace.  It  has  been  converted  into  a  State  prison. 
Here  are  deposited  the  jewels  and  ornaments  of  the 
Crown. 

As  a  merchant  I  was  deeply  interested  in  the  ship- 
ping of   London,  and   looked  with   eyes   wide   open 


European  Correspondence.  3 1 1 

upon  the  spacious  wet  and  dry  docks.  The  West 
India  docks  alone  covers  three  hundred  acres  of 
ground. 

The  East  India  docks  are  smaller,  but  very  sub- 
stantial. The  merchant  princes  of  New  York  would 
do  well  to  imitate  their  London  cousins  in  the 
improvement  of  their  docks  and  ship  accommoda- 
tions. The  wharves  of  New  York  are  a  disgrace  to 
that  great  and  prosperous  city. 

Beyond  the  docks  is  the  entrance  to  the  Thames 
Tunnel.  We  descended  nearly  a  hundred  steps  and 
found  ourselves  in  a  long  archway,  brilliantly  lighted 
with  gas  ;  and,  would  you  believe  it,  trade  and  traffic 
was  carried  on  in  this  subterraneous  passage  on  a 
brisk  scale.  In  addition  to  the  shops  were  eating- 
houses;  also  numerous  exhibitions.  Throngs  of  peo- 
ple were  passing  through  the  long  archway.  The 
tunnel  is  a  stupendous  work,  but  has  not  answered 
the  purpose  for  which  it  was  designed.  The  bridges 
over  the  Thames  are  far  preferable  in  every  respect 
to  the  tunnel,  and  are  among  the  curiosities  of  the 
metropolis.  While  in  the  tunnel  I  felt  a  choking 
sensation,  and  imagined  that  I  was  not  far  removed 
from  a  watery  grave.  I  visited  frequently  the  Royal 
Exchange,  which  is  a  splendid  building,  worthy  of 
the  merchant  princes  who  frequent  it.  One  of  the 
Rothschilds  was  pointed  out  to  me  as  he  stood,  during 
'Change,  at  his  pillar,  a  position  which  has  been  occu- 
pied for  many  years  by  a  member  of  his  great  banking 
house.  There  is  nothing  in  the  appearance  of  Roths- 
child that  denotes  more  than  ordinary  financial  abilities. 


312  European  Correspondence. 

Near  the  Exchange  is  the  Bank  of  England,  a 
moneyed  giant.  The  banking  buildings  covers  eight 
acres  of  ground.  Its  affairs  are  managed  by  a  gov- 
ernor, deputy-governor,  and  twenty-four  directors, 
elected  annually. 

The  immense  business  of  the  bank  requires  a 
thousand  clerks.  The  stocks  or  securities,  upon 
which  the  public  dividends  are  payable,  amount  to 
.£774,000,000,  and  the  annual  dividends  payable 
thereupon,  to  £"25,000,000.  The  management  of  the 
entire  public  debt  of  Great  Britain  is  placed  in 
the  hands  of  the  Bank  of  England.  I  stood  on 
the  broad  steps  of  the  bank  and  looked  upon  the 
ever-moving  waves  of  human  life  pressing  and  jost- 
ling one  another,  as  if  they  were  all  an  hour  behind 
time. 

How  sad  and  lonely  it  made  me  feel  as  I  gazed 
upon  millions  of  human  beings,  not  one  of  their  vast 
multitude  knowing  or  caring  a  fig  for  me. 

When  a  boy  I  read  of  the  great  City  of  London,  of 
its  merchant  princes  and  rich  bankers.  I  felt  that  I 
would  like  to  live  there.  To-day's  experience  satis- 
fied my  ambition  in  that  direction.  I  was  convinced 
that  Charleston,  the  "  Old  City  by  the  Sea,"  was  quite 
large  enough  for  me.  I  had  a  letter  of  introduc- 
tion to  the  great  banking  house  of  Brown,  Shipley 
&  Co. 

Learning  that  their  office  was  near  the  Bank  of 
England,  I  stepped  into  a  store  and  asked  a  gentle- 
man if  he  could  direct  me  to  the  house  of  Brown, 
Shipley  &  Co. 


European  Correspondence.  313 

He  looked  up  quite  thoughtfully,  muttering 
"  Brown,  Shipley  &  Co.,"  "  Brown,  Shipley  &  Co. — I 
never  heard  of  that  firm."  I  thought,  if  an  old  bank- 
ing house  of  the  world-renowned  reputation  of  Brown, 
Shipley  &  Co.,  was  not  known  by  its  next  door  neigh- 
bor, that  my  chance  for  making  a  name  in  London 
would  be  very  remote. 

The  vastness  of  London  can  only  be  realized  by 
comparison.  It  has  four  times  the  population  of  New 
York,  nearly  two-thirds  more  people  in  it  than  Paris. 
It  contains  as  many  inhabitants  as  Scotland  with  all 
of  its  great  cities.  Here  you  find  a  hundred  thou- 
sand abandoned  women  and  twenty  thousand  profes- 
sional gamblers.  A  vast  number  of  people  here  work 
on  Sundays,  and  there  are  drunkards  enough  in  Lon- 
don to  make  a  city.  Good  and  evil  here  is  on  a  large 
scale. 

In  this  grand  old  city  you  find  palaces,  parks, 
sculptures,  castles,  fortresses,  princely  mansions  and 
miserable  huts.  The  whole  eastern  part  of  London 
is  teeming  with  every  variety  of  life  and  activity, 
from  the  highest  sphere  of  commerce  and  finance,  in 
the  offices  of  Rothchilds  in  New  Court,  and  the  Bar- 
ings in  Bishopgate  street,  down  to  the  fish  stalls  in 
Billinsgate,  and  the  old  cloth  dealers  in  Houndsditch. 
What  would  the  vast  multitude  of  people  do  without 
the  "  lungs  of  London  ?"  These  great  air  vessels  are 
as  accessible  to  the  peasant  as  to  the  Queen.  Hyde 
Park  is,  perhaps,  the  Champs  Elysees  of  London;  it 
contains  three  hundred  and  eighty-eight  acres,  and 
40 


314  European  Correspondence. 

extends  from  White  Hall  to  Kensington  Gardens. 
Here  you  see  wealth,  fashion  and  show,  unsurpassed 
in  Europe. 

Regent  Park  contains  four  hundred  and  fifty  acres. 
The  Zoological  Garden,  found  here  in  great  perfec- 
tion, is  the  most  interesting  feature  of  this  park. 
Green  Park  is  entered  from  Piccadilly  by  an  Arch 
Triumph — a  diminutive  representation  of  the  Paris 
monument.  A  statue  of  the  Iron  Duke  embellishes 
Green  Park. 

St.  James  is  the  Park  or  Garden  of  Buckingham 
Palace,  and,  of  course,  is  well  kept. 

I  made  an  effort  to  see  Queen  Victoria.  Her 
Majesty,  I  was  informed,  had  gone  to  Scotland  with 
Mr.  Brown.  Failing  to  see  the  Queen,  for  four  shil- 
lings I  was  permitted  to  inspect  her  royal  stables,  and 
look  with  admiration  upon  the  forty  elegant  carriages. 
Here,  also,  is  kept  the  state  carriage,  which  was  pur- 
chased more  than  a  century  ago,  at  a  cost  of  £7,000. 
Buckingham  Palace  has  not  been  occupied  much  by 
the  Queen  since  the  death  of  Prince  Albert.  To  my 
eye  it  is  an  unsightly  building.  I  think  the  Queen 
shows  her  good  sense  in  preferring  Windsor  Castle 
to  Buckingham  Palace.  We  visited  Windsor,  and 
there  had  a  most  charming  day.  The  state  apart- 
ments contain  some  of  the  finest  pictures  I  have 
seen,  painted  by  Rubens,  Van  Dyke,  Rembrandt, 
Poussin  and  others. 

Never  shall  I  forget  the  loveliness  of  the  view  from 
the  Round  Tower.  There  you  see  the  long  avenue 
of  grand  old  trees,  miles  in  length ;    beyond  is  the 


European  Correspondence.  315 

Thames,  winding  gracefully  among  elegant  farm 
houses  and  villages.  Our  party  was  delighted  with 
the  New  Garden,  which  is  adorned  with  marble  and 
bronze  statues. 

The  last  day  I  spent  in  London  was  devoted  to 
the  sights  in  the  British  Museum.  Here  is  a  store- 
house of  antique  treasures  worth  crossing  the  Atlan- 
tic to  see. 

Just  think  of  rushing  in  one  day  through  those  large 
rooms  and  galleries,  filled  as  they  are  with  rare  speci- 
mens of  mineralogy,  geology,  statues  and  historical 
paintings,  and  five  hundred  thousand  volumes — the 
history  of  earth,  man  and  seas. 

But  enough,  my  eyes  are  dizzy  and  brain  weary 
in  looking  upon  London  sights.  There  is  a  picture 
in  the  New  World,  dearer  to  me  than  London  with 
all  its  sights  and  treasures.  That  picture  is  home, 
sweet  home — and  the  loved  ones  in  it. 

G.  W.  W. 

London,  October,   1866. 


LETTER    THIRTY-FIRST 


Liverpool,  her  Dockage  and  Shipping  Facilities — Ameri- 
can Cotton — Adieu  to  the  Old  World — Steamship 
China — Stormy  Passage — Arrival  at  Boston — Home 
Again. 

A  swift  railway  travel  of  five  hours,  through  a  beau- 
tiful country,  and  we  are  transferred  from  England's 
great  metropolis  to  her  principal  sea-port  city.  Liv- 
erpool is  substantially  built  on  the  River  Mersey, 
four  miles  above  the  mouth,  in  the  Irish  Sea.  Popu- 
lation seven  hundred  thousand. 

The  shipping  of  Liverpool  is  immense  ;  more  than 
three  thousand  sailing  and  steam  vessels  are  regis- 
tered here.  The  dockage  and  shipping  facilities  are 
very  superior.  The  imports  of  American  cotton,  in 
1785,  were  one  hundred  bales;  in  1800,  one  hundred 
thousand  bales;  and,  in  i860,  it  had  increased  to  two 
millions  of  bales. 

The  proximity  of  Liverpool  to  the  ocean,  and  to 
the  manufacturing  districts  of  Great  Britain,  gives  to 
her  unsurpassed  commercial  advantages.  One  half 
the  products  of  England  are  exported  from  Liverpool. 
Few  cities,  during  the  past  twenty  years,  in  the  Old 
or  New  World,  have  made  such  rapid  progress  in 
wealth  and  population. 


European  Cotrespondetice.  317 

Well,  the  day  for  departure  is  near  at  hand,  to- 
morrow I  shall  leave  for  home !  The  very  thought 
of  it  makes  my  heart  throb  and  beat  with  joy. 
My  tour  on  the  Continent  and  in  Great  Britain 
has  been  one  of  intense  interest,  pleasure  and  infor- 
mation. 

In  my  rambles  I  have  looked  carefully  at  the  peo- 
ple in  all  the  walks  of  life.  I  was  not  prepared  to 
see  so  much  abject  poverty  and  destitution ;  but  the 
poor  we  find  in  all  ages  and  in  all  countries.  So  it 
will  be  to  the  end  of  time. 

I  have  looked  on  La  Belle  France  with  her  vine- 
clad  hills,  her  palaces  and  her  Paris.  At  Switzerland, 
with  its  charming  lakes  and  snow-capped  mountains. 
At  Italy's  blue  sky,  placid  lakes  and  sweet  vales. 
At  Germany,  with  her  Berlin,  Vienna,  Hamburg, 
Dresden  and  Munich.  At  Scotland,  with  her  moun- 
tains, lakes,  and  well  cultivated  fields.  At  Wales, 
with  her  mountains  of  iron ;  and  last,  though  not 
least,  at  England,  the  dearest  spot  of  all. 

The  scenery  of  England  when  compared  to  Swit- 
zerland, or  many  portions  of  our  own  country,  is 
tame.  Nature's  defects  have  been  made  up  with  a 
liberal  hand  in  the  embellishments  and  triumphs  of 
art,  science  and  learning.  Here  you  find  palaces, 
castles,  parks,  pictures,  sculptures,  fields  clothed  with 
almost  perpetual  verdure,  and  gardens  with  ever- 
blooming  flowers.  In  fact,  you  find  everything  in 
England  that  can  contribute  to  the  improvement  and 
happiness  of  man.  As  a  nation,  the  men  and  women 
surpass  all  others  in  personal  beauty. 


3 1 8  European  Correspondence. 

The  time  has  arrived  when  I  must  bid  adieu  to  the 
Old  World.  I  am  soon  to  exchange  the  sights  of  the 
Eastern  Hemisphere  for  the  Western  Continent.  I 
dread  crossing  the  Atlantic,  and  if  the  loved  ones  at 
home  were  with  me,  I  should  be  inclined  to  linger 
longer,  and  further  survey  the  classic  grounds  of  our 
forefathers.  At  5  P.  M.,  we  left  our  hotel  for  the 
noble  steamship  China.  Soon  after  our  arrival  on 
board,  the  captain  took  his  stand  at  the  wheel-house, 
and  ordered  all  save  passengers  ashore.  A  tap  of  the 
bell,  then  a  shrill  whistle,  and  the  great  wheels  of  the 
steamer  were  put  in  motion,  and  we  bade  a  long  and 
last  farewell  to  dear  old  England. 

I  am  fortunate  in  having  as  fellow-passengers  some 
Charleston  friends ;  and  here  I  find  Madame  Murat, 
now  a  resident  of  Florida,  and  also  some  Georgia 
friends.  We  have  the  prospect  of  a  pleasant  voyage. 
Our  steamer  has  a  smooth  sail  to  Queenstown ;  here 
she  touches  for  the  mail,  which  comes  through  by 
rail.  The  most  of  the  passengers  land  and  stroll 
through  this  pretty  Irish  town,  and  some  of  us  make 
extensive  purchases  of  Irish  linen  made  of  cotton, 
and  here  we  find  a  score  of  beggars  annoying  us 
almost  beyond  endurance.  We  are  again  on  the 
China,  and  are  moving  westward  as  fast  as  steam  and 
sail  can  drive  us.    For  a  day  or  so  the  weather  is  mild 

We  now  find  ourselves  in  a  more  northern  latitude. 
The  wind  begins  to  blow  from  the  west,  and  now  from 
the  northwest,  which  pours  upon  us  a  succession  of 
furious  gales,  so  boisterous  and  tempestuous  as  to 
threaten  to  engulf  us   in  the  briny  deep.     Our  ship 


European   Corrcspo?idencc.  319 

behaved  nobly,  although  she  trembled  in  every  tim- 
ber, and  dipped  water  first  on  the  right  and  then  on 
the  left ;  here  we  stood,  or  tried  to  stand,  looking  on 
the  angry  billows,  as  they  heaped  up  mountains  high 
around  us,  with  but  a  slender  plank  between  us  and  a 
watery  grave.  As  the  winds  and  waves  thundered 
against  our  ship,  she  would  reel  and  stagger.  The 
force  of  the  storm  seemed  more  than  even  her  strong 
frame  could  bear.  It  was  in  this  crisis  that  I  thought 
of  home  and  the  loved  ones,  and  had  great  apprehen- 
sions that  I  should  see  them  no  more.  This  terrific 
storm  lasted  for  several  days,  with  but  slight  inter- 
mission. The  black  darkness  of  the  horizon  finally 
dispersed,  and  the  sunlight  gladdened  our  hearts  and 
allayed  our  fears.  I  never  before  rejoiced  so  much  at 
sunlight.  Here  is  Halifax,  and  we  all  land,  rejoiced 
once  more  to  stand  on  terra  firma.  I  send  by  the 
wires,  to  the  dear  ones  at  home,  the  news  of  our  safe 
arrival  in  the  New  World.  Again  we  embark  on  the 
China.  Amid  fogs  as  thick  as  midnight  darkness, 
we  felt  our  way  cautiously  in  the  direction  of  Boston, 
ringing  the  bell  and  firing  cannon,  to  warn  innocent 
crafts  of  the  danger  they  are  in.  We  go  far  out 
of  our  way,  but  finally  reach  Boston  safely.  With 
grateful  hearts  to  a  merciful  Providence,  we  quit  the 
steamer,  quite  satisfied  with  our  adventures  as  sailors. 
But  here  I  am  in  Charleston,  in  our  cheerful  home, 
and  surrounded  by  those  I  love  so  well. 

Thus  ends  the  European  Correspondence  of 

G.  W.  W. 

Charleston,  S,  C,  November,  1866. 


MISCELLANEOUS    PAPERS. 


Under  this  head,  I  propose  to  class  a  variety  of 
fugitive  pieces,  written  at  different  periods  of  life, 
under  different  circumstances,  and  illustrative  in  a 
slight  degree  of  the  public  as  well  as  the  private  life 
of  the  author.  Some  of  the  pieces  have  a  purely- 
domestic  character ;  but  as  this  is  a  family  book, 
designed  wholly  for  my  children,  and  for  the 
familiar  friends  who  take  an  interest  in  its  details, 
no  apology  is  deemed  necessary.  There  is  not 
to  be  a  copy  of  the  book  sold.  Its  circulation 
will    be    wholly   private. 


41 


MISCELLANEOUS  PAPERS. 


MEMOIR  OF  MAJOR  EDWARD  WILLIAMS. 


Major  Edward  Williams  was  born  at  Easton,  Mass., 
June  30th,  1780,  and  died  March  4th,  1856,  at  his 
residence  in  Nacoochee,  Ga. 

At  the  age  of  twenty  years,  he  left  his  native  place 
for  Charleston,  South  Carolina,  where  he  remained 
only  two  years,  when  he  removed  to  Burke  County, 
North  Carolina.  Here  he  married  a  daughter  of  Mr. 
Daniel  Brown,  a  man  of  sterling  worth,  who  was 
extensively  engaged  in  agriculture  and  merchandise. 
The  rumor  of  rich  lands  in  Georgia,  induced  Major 
Williams  to  visit  that  State  in  1822  ;  and  though, 
at  that  time,  the  Cherokee  Indians  were  the  princi- 
pal inhabitants  of  the  upper  counties,  he  purchased 
a  large  portion  of  Nacoochee  Valley,  one  of  the 
most  romantic  and  beautiful  vales  in  the  South. 
He  settled  near  the  centre  of  this  fertile  valley, 
where  he  and  his  excellent  wife  brought  up  a  family 
of  worthy  sons  and  daughters.  No  parents  could 
be  more  blest  in  their  children,  and  this  remark 
is  true  without  an  exception  among  them — no  slight 
proof  of  proper  training  and  noble  example.     Major 


4r 


324  Miscellaneous  Papers. 

Williams  possessed  remarkable  energy  and  perse- 
verance of  character,  and  these  traits  were  fully  ex- 
emplified in  his  long  and  busy  life.  He  was  strictly 
temperate  in  times  when  drinking,  not  to  say  intem- 
perance, was  regarded  by  very  many  with  great 
though  unwarrantable  leniency.  His  house  was  the 
abode  of  hospitality,  and  over  its  doors  might  have 
been  inscribed  the  Irish  salutation  to  each  comer — 
"A  hundred  thousand  welcomes!"  His  chief  delight 
was  in  the  bosom  of  his  family,  where  he  was  be- 
loved and  honored ;  while  his  known  love  of  virtue, 
justice,  and  truth,  and  his  unswerving  integrity  of 
character,  commanded  the  esteem  and  confidence  of 
all  who  knew  him.  For  a  long  time  he  had  been 
regarded  as  the  model  farmer  of  upper  Georgia,  and 
in  this  capacity  did  much  to  promote  the  agricultural 
interests  of  his  adopted  State.  He  established  also 
in  the  Alleghany  Mountains,  a  dozen  miles  from  his 
residence,  the  first  cheese  dairy  at  the  South  ;  and 
conducted  it  successfully  till  his  advanced  years  for- 
bade his  longer  attending  to  it.  He  was  present  at 
nearly  all  the  annual  fairs  of  the  State  Agricultural 
Society  from  the  time  of  its  formation,  and  obtained 
prizes  at  each — among  them,  for  corn,  wheat  and 
cheese.  He  had  read  extensively,  was  a  close 
observer  of  men  and  things,  and  seldom  erred  in  his 
estimate  of  human  character.  He  never  allowed  him- 
self to  speak  evil  of  men.  It  is  believed  that  he  lived 
and  died  without  an  enemy ;  while  he  made  friends 
wherever  he  was  known.  A  good  name,  which  he 
nobly  won,  and  the  importance  of  which  he  pressed 


Miscellaneous  Papers.  325 

steadily  on  his  children,  he  prized  infinitely  above 
riches.  One  might  have  supposed  that  a  man  of  such 
sterling  worth  among  his  fellows  could  need  no  other 
passport  even  to  the  abodes  on  high  ;  not  so  thought 
Major  Williams.  Through  the  whole  course  of  his 
life  he  was  a  regular  attendant  on  the  services  of  the 
house  of  God,  and  a  ready  contributor  to  all  the 
benevolent  enterprises  of  the  church,  delighting 
always  in  the  society  of  the  good,  so  that  even  those 
who  knew  him  most  intimately,  regarded  him  as  defi- 
cient in  but  one  point,  and  that  was  the  neglect  of 
formal  union  with  the  church.  This  step,  however, 
he  took  very  deliberately  and  solemnly  in  the  latter 
part  of  his  life,  thus  perfecting  his  character  as  a  speci- 
men of  the  "  noblest  work  of  God  " — "  an  honest 
man  ;"  and  without  which  step  his  claim  to  that  char- 
acter in  the  highest  sense  must  ever  have  remained 
defective.  Nor  was  this  union  a  mere  form.  His 
reliance  was  in  the  atonement  of  Jesus  Christ  alone, 
and  his  spirit  was  happy  and  resigned,  trusting  in  his 
Saviour.  He  joined  the  Methodist  Episcopal  Church, 
into  which  all  his  children  had  previously  entered, 
and  in  whose  communion  his  wife  had  lived  and  died. 
But  the  close  of  all  was  drawing  on,  and  the  good  old 
man,  supposing  that  he  might  not  see  the  dawn  of 
the  19th  day  of  February,  (a  few  days  before  his 
death,)  at  1 1  o'clock  the  preceding  night  had  his 
friends  gathered  into  his  chamber,  and  a  tried  friend, 
the  Rev.  Mr.  Littlejohn,  administered  the  communion 
of  the  Lord's  Supper  to  a  weeping,  yet  rejoicing  little 
band  of  Christians.     The  venerable  and  beloved  suf- 


326  Miscellaneous  Papers. 

ferer  was  in  sight  of  the  fair  fields  beyond  the  river  of 
death,  and  his  spirit  exulted  in  God  his  Saviour,  and 
in  anticipation  of  a  peaceful  and  triumphant  departure 
from  earth.  He  praised  God  aloud,  bade  his  children 
and  friends  join  him  in  heaven,  said  he  had  no  fear  of 
death,  but  was  ready  and  willing  to  depart  at  any 
moment  it  might  please  God  to  call  him ;  and  in  this 
blissful  state  continued  till  the  call  came.  The  lan- 
guage of  his  son,  Mr.  Charles  L.  Williams,  to  another 
of  his  sons  in  Charleston,  may  well  be  used  by  each 
one  of  the  survivors :  "  O,  George,  such  consolation 
we  have  never  met  with  before.  Grief  and  joy  both 
in  the  same  moment — grieved  to  give  him  up,  but 
rejoiced  to  believe  he  was  going  to  be  happy."  Thus 
lived  and  died  this  patriarchal  man — loved  through 
his  lengthened  and  useful  life,  lamented  in  his  death, 
though  those  who  weep  cannot  but  rejoice  in  his 
blissful  release  and  his  joyful  state  on  high.  "  The 
memory  of  the  just  is  blessed." 

H.  A.  C.  Walker. 


OBITUARY. 


Died,    at    his    residence     in    Nacoochee    Valley, 
Georgia,  Major  Edward  Williams,  aged  seventy-six. 

LINES,    SUGGESTED    BY    THE    DEATH    OF    MAJOR    EDWARD    WILLIAMS. 

Another  victim  !   O  insatiate  grave, 
Shall  thy  voice  never  cry,  "  It  is  enough  ?  " 
Sweet  infancy  descends  to  thy  cold  vaults, 
And  man  in  middle  prime  goes  down  to  thee, 
And  woman's  loveliness,  all  paled,  is  thine, 
And  age  within  thy  dampness  mouldering  lies. 
O  grave,  insatiate  !  wilt  thou  ne'er  be  gorged  ? 
From  our  fond,  circling  arms  are  reft  away 
The  loved,  now  lost,  and  gathered  all  to  thee, 
And  yet  no  surfeit-sound  returns,  but  still 
Thou  gapest,  open  grave  !  and  with  desire 
Enlarged  and  sharpened  by  the  very  heaps 
Of  men  thy  gloomy  caverns  have  received, 
Thou  waitest  still  for  more ! 

Another  victim  ! — midnight's  hour  is  near, 
And  round  the  couch  of  pain  are  anxious  friends. 
But  he  who  suffers  there  hath  cast  his  eye 
To  Him  who  suffered  once  on  Calvary  ; 
And  high  and  far  beyond  the  gloomy  grave 
A  light  divine  appears,  and  thrilling  joy 
Plays  through  the  sufferer's  heart. 

A  man  of  God 
Is  with  the  little  band  assembled  there ; 
And  by  the  taper's  ray,  where  all  are  sad, 
Save  him,  whom,  sealed  of  death,  the  grave  has  claimed. 
The  Paschal  ceremonial  is  prepared, 


328  Miscellaneous  Papers. 

All  bow  and  penitently  own  their  sins, 
Deprecative,  imploring  prayer  they  urge, 
And  hearts  which  trust  in  Christ  acceptance  find  ; 
And  God  that  room  of  death  a  Bethel  makes. 

"My  children,"  said  the  aged  man,  "  draw  nigh  '*- 
(From  prime  to  hoary  years  his  course  he'd  held, 
No  enemy  had  made,  but  many  friends, 
Friends  who  admired  the  patriarchal  man) — 
"  My  loved  ones,  gather  round,  and  e'er  I  pass, 
Receive  my  love,  my  fondest,  last  farewell. 
For  in  the  land  to  which  I  go,  and  where 
We'll  meet  again,  no  parting  sound  is  heard. 
I've  reached  a  ripe  old  age  ;   I'm  ready  now; 
In  Christ  alone  I  trust ;   into  his  hands 
I  cast  my  soul,  with  no  misgiving  fear. 
He  loves  me  and  will  love  me  to  the  end  !" 
And  thus,  rejoicing,  confident,  resigned, 
The  patriarch  closed  the  scene. 

Another  victim  this  ? — O  greedy  grave  ! 
Of  him  now  taken  thou  shalt  be  despoiled, 
And  loved  ones  whom  we've  lost  in  thy  defiles 
We'll  find  again  beyond,  when  we  in  turn 
Have  passed  thy  dark  abode  ! 

Thou  know'st  that  He 
Who  leads  us  on,  entered  thy  drear  domain, 
And  rose  triumphant  over  sin  and  death 
And  thee.      See  how  His  banner  freely  floats 
Where,  marshalling  his  gath'ring  hosts  beyond, 
He  waves  us  onward  through  thy  gloomy  vale 
To  join  his  glittering  ranks  ;  that,  all  complete, 
Our  glorious  Captain  may  his  ransomed  lead 
Into  eternal  joy  ! 

Eyes  now  that  weep, 
Shall  sparkle  with  delight ;   and  hearts,  whose  throes, 
In  parting,  agonized  to  bursting  nigh, 
Shall  thrill  to  rapture's  touch,  as  one  by  one 
Earth's  loved  and  lost  are  found  in  those  bright  ranks. 


Miscellaneous  Papers.  329 

What  exultative  shouts  our  Leader  greet  ! 
And  hark!    triumphant  sounds  are  swelling  high — 
"  Death,  where  is  thy  sting?  and  Grave,  thy  victory  ? 
To  God,  our  God,  be  endless  glory  given  ! 
Through  Jesus  Christ  the  victory  is  ours  !" 

H.  A.  C.  Walker. 
Charleston,  March,  1856. 


A  TALK  ABOUT  THE  RESOURCES  OF  GEORGIA- 
HERD'S  GRASS,  HAY,  etc. 


We  are  truly  a  famous  people  in  Georgia  to  talk 
and  dream  of  independence.  It  cannot  be  doubted 
that  our  State  possesses  all  the  natural  resources  for 
true  independence.  Let  us,  then,  show  the  patriots 
at  Washington,  who  are  discussing  the  difference 
between  working  a  black  mule  and  a  white  ass,  that 
their  decision  is  of  but  little  importance  to  us.  We 
will  teach  those  who  are  ever  meddling  with  our 
institutions,  that  some  things  can  be  done  as  well  as 
others.  Now,  while  we  love  the  people  of  the  North, 
yet  we  love  our  homes  and  institutions  more;  and  as 
this  is  a  day  distinguished  for  resolves,  let  us  resolve 
to  be  an  independent  people.  This  must  be  accom- 
plished by  pursuing  the  home  system.  Let  us  raise 
everything  we  eat,  whether  it  be  of  animal  or  vegeta- 
ble origin.  If  we  should  not  make  hay,  cheese,  but- 
ter, pork,  beef  and  flour  for  export,  yet  it  is  a  matter 
of  no  small  importance  to  supply  our  home  consump- 
42 


330  Miscellaneous  Papers. 

tion.  I  hope  and  trust  the  days  are  numbered  when 
we  are  to  look  abroad  for  what  we  eat  and  wear.  In 
our  climate,  we  can  raise  not  only  the  necessaries, 
but  luxuries  of  life.  The  orange,  lemon,  sugar  cane 
and  rice,  and  the  famous  sea  island  cotton,  flourish  in 
Southern  Georgia — there,  also,  are  to  be  found  the 
pine  forests,  valuable  for  lumber — the  manufacture  of 
tar,  pitch  and  turpentine,  might  be  made  a  profitable 
business.  In  Middle  Georgia,  our  lands  are  valuable 
for  cotton  and  grain.  Upper  Georgia  is  the  interest- 
ing portion  of  our  State ;  but  little  is  known  of  its 
great  advantages  and  resources.  It  is  here  that  we 
can  grow  the  wheat,  corn,  rye,  potatoes  and  barley  to 
feed  the  multitude.  On  the  banks  of  the  beautiful 
Chattahoochee  and  Ocmulgee,  we  will  build  our 
Lowell  and  Manchester.  It  is  here  that  we  must 
encourage  the  manufacturer  and  artizan.  Thousands 
of  our  people  might  be  profitably  employed  in  manu- 
facturing the  great  staple  of  Georgia  into  yarns  and 
cloth.  It  is  here  that  we  have  rich  and  inexhaustible 
mines  of  gold,  iron  and  coal.  Lime,  to  enrich  our 
lands,  is  also  abundant.  Merchant  mills  are  multiply- 
ing in  every  direction,  and  Northern  flour  will  soon 
be  driven  from  the  South. 

In  Upper  Georgia,  we  have  the  mountain  range, 
producing  luxuriant  native  grasses,  to  feed  the  "  cat- 
tle on  a  thousand  hills."  I  know  that  the  erroneous 
opinion  prevails  with  many  that  our  climate  and  soils 
are  not  adapted  to  the  cultivation  of  such  grasses  as 
can  be  made  into  good  hay.  This  is  quite  a  mistake. 
I  have  seen  the  best  meadows  in  New  England,  but 


Miscellaneous  Papers.  331 

no  where  have  I  seen  grass  grow  more  luxuriantly 
than  in  Georgia.  It  is  to  be  regretted  that  this  im- 
portant branch  of  Southern  agriculture  is  so  much 
neglected.  The  cultivation  of  grass  is  a  subject  of 
vast  importance  to  our  people.  We  have  thousands 
of  acres  of  land,  too  wet  for  grain  and  cotton,  that 
might  be  sown  down  with  grass,  and  yield  a  hand- 
some profit  to  the  farmer. 

No  grass  has  succeeded  so  well  in  Georgia  as  the 
Herd's  grass.  It  flourishes  on  wet  soils  and  re- 
claimed swamps,  but  will  thrive  on  most  soils  ;  makes 
an  excellent  spring  and  winter  pasture,  and  can  be 
mown  twice  in  one  year.  This  valuable  grass  is  more 
extensively  cultivated  in  Habersham  County  than 
any  other  section  of  the  State.  It  was  introduced 
into  Nacoochee  Valley  by  Major  Williams  more 
than  twenty  years  since.  The  Major  has  tried  the 
celebrated  Bermuda,  Means,  Guinea,  and  other 
grasses,  but  has  found  none  equal  to  the  Herd's. 
The  farmers  of  that  valley  understand  the  value  of 
good  hay,  and  have  more  than  a  hundred  acres  of 
fine  meadow.  Herd's  grass  is  easily  propagated — is 
perrenial,  and  when  once  introduced  into  good  soil, 
will  flourish  with  a  little  care,  for  years.  The  land 
intended  for  meadows,  should  be  thoroughly  cleaned 
of  stumps  and  roots,  then  ploughed  and  harrowed. 
The  grass  seed  should  be  sown  with  oats,  broad- 
cast, afterward,  harrowed  and  brushed  in.  March  is 
a  good  month  for  sowing.  The  oats  will  protect  the 
young  grass  from  the  hot  sun ;  cut  the  oats,  grass 
and  weeds  as  close  to  the  ground  as  possible.     You 


332  Miscellaneous  Papers. 

will  not  get  much  hay  the  first  year.  Meadows  are 
often  injured  by  pasturing,  especially  in  wet  weather; 
and  allowing  noxious  weeds,  briars  and  bushes  to 
grow  up.  They  can  be  improved  by  irrigation. 
During  the  winter  months,  turn  the  small  branches  on 
the  meadow.  The  surface  soil  should  be  kept  free 
from  standing  water  after  the  first  of  March.  Har- 
rowing in  the  fall  is  beneficial. 

When  the  time  for,  mowing  arises,  remember  you 
all  to  "  make  hay  while  the  sun  shines!'  Let  each 
mower  be  followed  by  a  boy,  whose  duty  it  is  to  take 
up  the  swath  and  shake  it  out  as  thin  as  possible, 
where  it  grew.  In  the  evening  the  hay  should  be 
raked  into  winrows,  and  afterwards  put  into  cocks 
five  or  six  feet  in  height.  If  the  weather  is  good  the 
hay  will  be  ready  for  stacking  or  housing  in  two  or 
three  days.  It  is  a  great  saving  to  put  it  under 
shelter,  hence  the  necessity  of  large  barns.  Inti- 
mately connected  with  grass-growing  and  hay- 
making, is  the  dairy  business.  At  a  future  time,  I 
may  offer  a  few  hints  upon  this  subject. 

Let  our  men  of  the  soil  awake  from  their  Rip  Van 
Winkle  sleep — be  true  to  themselves — and  we  can 
and  will  be  an  independent  people. 

Ever  yours, 

G.  W.  W. 

Nacoochee,  1850. 


EMORY  COLLEGE,  GEORGIA— CHEERING. 

A    REPLY    TO    CENSOR. 

Brother  Parks,  the  Agent  for  Emory  College,  sent 
the  following  letter  for  our  columns.  It  is  a  telling 
"  reply  to  Censor  " — so  designated  by  the  writer  ; 
and  should,  at  once,  be  followed  up  by  another.  A 
few  more  such  arguments  will  surely  drive  the  Emory 
College  Agent  from  the  field.  What  "  Georgia 
Methodist"  stands  ready  with  its  like?  Surely 
such  a  spirit  of  liberality  will  find  no  trouble  in  get- 
ting across  the  Savannah  River.  Another  College  is 
indebted  to  the  munificence  of  the  same  brother  for 
the  same  amount ;  and  it  were  no  less  a  pity  than  a 
shame  to  have  one  man  do  so  much,  while  so  many 
do  so  little,  and  many  more  nothing. 

Dear  Brother  Parks:  —  Enclosed  I  send  you  five 
thousand  dollars  of  first  mortgage  seven  per  cent, 
bonds  of  the  Memphis  and  Charleston  Railroad  Com- 
pany, which  please  present  to  the  Trustees  of  Emory 
College.  It  is  my  wish  that  the  income  arising  from 
this  fund  be  used  in  paying  the  tuition  and  board  of 
young  men  who  are  preparing  for  the  ministry,  but 
have  not  the  means  of  procuring  an  education.  The 
selection  of  the  beneficiaries  to  be  left  to  the  annual 
Conference. 

Emory  has  certainly  earned  and  therefore  is  entitled 
to  the  confidence  of  the  Georgia  Methodists.  She 
has  already  done  nobly,  and  when  her  endowments 


334  Miscellaneous  Papers. 

are  completed,  she  will  become  the  glory  of  Method- 
ism. Let  the  friends  of  the  South,  and  especially  of 
the  M.  E.  Church,  South,  rally  around  our  institu- 
tions of  learning,  and  support  and  sustain  them  with 
a  liberality  worthy  of  the  noble  cause. 

Methodism,  which  sprang  from  a  handful  of  poor, 
but  resolute  people,  has  accomplished  wonders  for 
the  world.  We  now  number  our  millions,  and  our 
influence  is  seen  and  felt  upon  uncounted  multitudes. 
And  yet,  "  Censor  " — who  calls  himself  a  Methodist, 
is  striking  at  the  vital  energies  of  this  infant  giant. 
Save  us  from  our  friends  ! 

Some  of  our  brethren  on  this  side  of  the  Savannah, 
when  applied  to  for  money,  hide  themselves  behind 
this  Georgia  masked  battery — shame  on  them.  If 
"  Censor  "  should  devote  the  remainder  of  his  life  as 
a  faithful  agent  of  Church  Colleges,  he  could  not 
atone  for  the  great  wrong  he  has  perpetrated — such 
is  the  belief  of 

A  South  Carolina  Methodist. 

May,  1857. 


THE    CURRENCY. 


During  the  panic  last  fall,  you,  Messrs.  Editors  of 
the  Courier,  urged  the  banks  of  this  city  to  suspend 
specie  payments,  because  you  deemed  it  necessary, 
at  that  time,  for  the  protection  of  the  commercial 
community.  Now  that  the  storm  has  blown  over, 
we  find  that  we  were  more  scared  than  hurt.  It  is 
the  belief  of  many  that  the  banks  in  this  State,  with 
a  little  sacrifice,  could  have  maintained  a  specie 
basis,  and  at  the  same  time  have  furnished  the  mer- 
chants with  the  usual  facilities.  Be  this  as  it  may,  the 
friends  of  a  sound  currency  expect  you,  as  a  leading 
commercial  journal  of  this  city  and  State,  to  speak 
out  on  the  subject  of  an  early  resumption  of  specie 
payments.  There  is  an  urgent  necessity  for  this. 
The  banks  throughout  the  country  are  resuming 
specie  payments.  Augusta  and  Savannah  have  asked 
co-operation  of  Charleston.  Failing  to  secure  it,  they 
have  resolved  to  resume,  unconditionally,  on  the  first 
of  May  next.  I  also  learn  that  they  have  instructed 
their  agents  to  discount  no  drafts  payable  in  South 
Carolina,  thereby  diverting  large  shipments  of  cotton 
and  other  produce  that  would  otherwise  find  its  way 
to  this  market. 

In  many  parts  of  Georgia,  South  Carolina  money 
is  discredited,  and  efforts  are  being  made  to  drive  out 
every  South  Carolina  bank  agency  in  the  State.  It  is 
not  to  be  expected  that  they  will  submit  to  an  irre- 


336  Miscellaneous  Papers. 

deemable  currency,  to  the  exclusion  of  their  own 
specie  notes. 

Quite  a  number  of  our  banks  profess  to  be  ready 
and  anxious  to  resume,  but  make  a  scape-goat  of  the 
Bank  of  the  State.  They  say  it  is  impossible  for  that 
institution  to  redeem  its  large  circulation  in  gold  or 
its  equivalent.  In  that,  we  think,  they  are  mistaken. 
This  bank  is  a  State  institution — South  Carolina  owes 
comparatively  a  trifling  debt,  her  credit  is  good,  and 
I  doubt  not  a  million  of  her  seven  per  cent,  bonds 
could  easily  be  converted  into  coin  at  par.  It  would 
require  no  such  sum.  Were  all  the  banks  to  resume, 
the  demand  for  specie  would  be  small.  Then,  will 
not  South  Carolina,  so  long  distinguished  for  a  sound 
currency,  come  into  line,  and  resume  that  proud 
position  which  she  once  enjoyed? 

The  recent  panic  was  the  greatest  farce  of  the 
nineteenth  century.  Our  whole  country,  blessed,  as 
it  was,  with  the  most  abundant  harvest  ever  known, 
and  yet  our  commercial  community,  like  the  miser, 
was  perishing  in  the  midst  of  plenty. 

Thanks  to  King  Cotton  he  has  unlocked  the  iron 
grasp.  Our  country  is  again  prosperous,  and  now  is 
the  propitious  time,  while  both  foreign  and  domestic 
exchanges  are  in  favor  of  the  South,  for  our  banking 
institutions  to  replenish  their  vaults  with  coin.  If 
this  be  delayed  until  the  crops  have  gone  forward, 
and  the  proceeds  expended,  we  may,  next  fall,  when 
the  banks  are  compelled  to  resume,  prepare  ourselves 
for  a  panic  more  disastrous  in  its  consequences  than 
that  of  1857.  .  G.  W.  W. 

1858. 


TO    "SOME    OF    THE    UNCONVERTED." 


THE    BLUE    RIDGE    RAILROAD. 


I  have  neither  time  nor  inclination  to  enter  into  a 
newspaper  discussion  upon  the  merits  or  demerits  of 
the  Blue  Ridge  Railroad  question.  It  was  known  to 
many  of  my  friends  that  I  was  opposed  to  an  enter- 
prise which  could  not  be  completed  without  involv- 
ing the  city  and  State  in  an  expenditure  of  several 
millions  of  dollars.  I  regarded  the  roads  now  in 
operation  as  all  that  were  necessary  to  give  us  the 
facilities  and  advantages  that  the  Blue  Ridge  Rail- 
road, when  completed,  was  expected  to  do.  With 
this  conviction,  I  very  naturally  opposed  so  large 
an  expenditure  of  money  as  the  enterprise  called 
for. 

I  will  now  give  a  few  of  the  many  "  causes  which 
led  to  my  conversion  "  to  the  Blue  Ridge  Road,  and 
trust  that  "some  of  the  unconverted"  will  take  the 
same  trouble  and  expense  to  inform  themselves  upon 
the  whole  bearings  of  this  great  enterprise  that  I  have 
done,  and  then,  if  they  too,  are  not  convinced  of  their 
errors,  they  may  be  regarded  as  decidedly  wedded  to 
their  opinions. 

The  Chamber  of  Commerce  last  summer  appointed 

a  committee  to  confer  and  negotiate  with  the  railroad 

companies  for  a  reduction  of  the  rates  of  freight  to 

this  city.     Being  a  member  of  that  committee,  I  made 

43 


338  Miscellaneous  Papers. 

two  visits  to  Georgia  and  Tennessee,  and  while  attend- 
ing to  that  business,  I  became  awakened  if  not  con- 
verted. 

I  ■  discovered  that  the  Governor  of  Georgia,  under 
whose  control  the  State  road  is,  if  he  did  not  under- 
stand "banking  and  book-keeping,"  knew  that  Georgia 
as  well  as  South  Carolina  had  a  sea-port,  and  was 
using  all  his  efforts  to  direct  freight  and  business 
to  Savannah. 

The  State  of  Georgia  has  expended  six  millions  of 
dollars  in  a  road  leading  to  the  West.  Is  it  not  rea- 
sonable and  natural  that  she  should  use  that  road  for 
the  benefit  of  her  own  people  ?  Is  it  at  all  surprising 
that  the  agent  of  the  State  road  at  Chattanooga  should 
give  preference  to  a  merchant  consigning  his  cotton, 
corn,  flour,  etc,  to  Savannah,  over  one  shipping  to 
Charleston  ? 

In  December  last,  H.  Cobia,  Esq.,  and  myself  were 
delegated  by  Council  to  represent  the  stock  of  the 
city  in  the  Chattanooga  and  Nashville  Road.  While 
at  Nashville,  we  were  informed  that  some  ten  thou- 
sand barrels  of  flour  were  ready  for  shipment  to 
Charleston ;  but  the  agent  of  the  Georgia  State  Road 
refused  to  unite  with  the  other  roads  in  bringing  it  at 
the  rates  agreed  upon,  until  he  could  consult  the 
Governor ! 

The  consequence  was,  the  flour  was  sent  to  New 
York  via  Cincinnati.  The  Memphis  and  Nashville 
roads  in  which  our  city  has  expended  so  much  money, 
are  rendered  valueless  so  far  as  the  trade  to  Charles- 
ton is  concerned  ;  because  we  are  at  the  mercy  of  the 
Georgia  roads,  over  which  we  have  no  control. 


Miscellaneous  Papers.  339 

Are  the  "  unconverted  "  ignorant  of  the  fact,  that 
the  South  Carolina  Railroad  Company  paid  to  the 
City  of  Augusta  one  hundred  and  fifty  thousand  dol- 
lars for  the  privilege  of  building  a  bridge  across  the 
Savannah  River  ? 

Do  they  know  that,  notwithstanding  the  exorbitant 
price  paid  for  that  privilege,  citizens  of  Augusta  have 
recently  sued  the  Company,  and  received  heavy  dam- 
ages for  obstructing  navigation  ? 

I  have  only  named  a  few  of  the  many  facts  which 
have  come  to  my  knowledge  while  making  a  careful 
and  personal  investigation  of  the  railroad  interests 
connected  with  our  State  and  city.  I  saw  enough  to 
convince  me  that  South  Carolina  could  never  com- 
mercially be  an  independent  State  until  she  had 
opened  a  new  route  to  the  vast  West,  under  the  con- 
trol of  her  own  citizens. 

On  my  return  from  Nashville,  I  learned  through 
the  Augusta  papers,  that  the  final  vote  in  the  Senate 
was  to  be  taken  on  the  Blue  Ridge  bill  that  day  at 
3  o'clock.  I  felt  it  was  due  to  my  friends  in  the 
Legislature,  who  knew  my  opposition  to  the  bill,  to 
inform  them  that  I  no  longer  opposed  State  aid. 
When  I  arrived  at  Branchville,  at  I  o'clock,  I  sent  a 
telegraphic  dispatch  to  Hon.  Henry  Buist,  stating  that 
I  had  just  returned  from  the  West,  and  I  was  now 
thoroughly  convinced  that  the  Blue  Ridge  Road 
ought  to  be  built. 

This  was  all  the  showing  I  had  in  the  Legislature. 
I  had  no  opportunity  to  explain  or  give  my  reasons 
for  a  change  of  opinion.     No  one  can  say  that  I  was 


34-0  Miscellaneous  Papers. 

influenced  in  the  slightest  degree  by  any  friend  of  the 
road.  I  am,  perhaps,  as  much  wedded  to  my  opinions 
as  fine  most  of  men,  but  experience  has  long  since 
taught  me  that  no  man  is  infallible.  I  feel  that  it  is 
the  duty  of  every  good  citizen  when  he  discovers 
that  he  is  in  error,  to  have  the  manliness  to  acknowl- 
edge it,  especially  when  that  error  is  calculated  to 
lead  others  astray.  I  have  become  a  friend  of  the 
Blue  Ridge  Road  from  an  honest  conviction  that  my 
opposition  to  it  was  an  error  of  judgment.  I  now 
believe  that  every  citizen  of  South  Carolina  is  inter- 
ested in  the  success  of  this  great  enterprise. 

G.  W.  W. 

Jantiary  22,   1859. 


WOFFORD  COLLEGE,  SOUTH  CAROLINA. 


As  the  readers  of  the  Advocate  are  interested  in 
the  great  educational  interests  of  our  church,  I  em- 
brace this  opportunity  of  informing  them  of  some 
of  the  doings  of  Wofford  College,  during  Commence- 
ment week.  On  Sabbath,  the  Rev.  Whitefoord  Smith, 
D.  D.,  preached  the  Commencement  Sermon  before 
the  graduating  class.  The  spacious  College  Chapel 
was  crowded  with  strangers  and  visitors.  It  was  one 
of  the  most  powerful  and  practical  sermons  I  ever  heard 
from  this  eminent  divine.  For  more  than  an  hour, 
in  his  earnest  and  impressive  style,  he  besought  the 


Miscellaneous  Papers.  341 

young  men  to  "  Watch  ye,  stand  fast  in  the  faith,  quit 
you  like  men,  be  strong."  It  is  to  be  regretted  that 
Wofford  College  loses  the  services  of  Dr.  Smith.  He 
however,  goes  to  a  more  laborious,  and  I  trust  equally 
useful  field  of  labor. 

On  Tuesday,  the  Hon.  J.  D.  Treadewell,  of  Colum- 
bia, a  distinguished  layman  of  our  church,  delivered 
an  oration  before  the  Calhoun  and  Preston  Societies 
connected  with  Wofford  College.  It  was  a  splendid 
effort  ;  but  the  writer  thought  him  unnecessarily 
severe  on  the  Government  of  England,  and  there 
were  other  portions  of  his  eloquent  oration  to  which 
all  his  audience  did  not  subscribe. 

On  Wednesday,  the  annual  exercises  closed  at 
Wofford,  and  it  is  a  day  that  will  long  be  remem- 
bered by  those  who  were  in  attendance.  The  young 
gentlemen  of  the  graduating  class  acquitted  them- 
selves handsomely  in  their  Commencement  exercises. 
Fourteen  graduated,  taking  the  degree  of  bachelor  in 
the  liberal  arts.  Four  of  that  number  contemplated 
entering  the  Christian  ministry  at  an  early  day. 
Oh  that  the  friends  of  our  church  would  awake  to 
the  necessity  of  sustaining  our  colleges,  with  a  pat- 
ronage and  liberality  worthy  of  the  noble  efforts 
now  making,  to  furnish  within  our  own  limits  a  thor- 
ough education  based  on  the  principles  of  Scriptural 
religion,  and  quickened  with  the  energies  and  activi- 
ties of  Methodism. 

At  the  close  of  the  exercises  two  elegant  Family 
Bibles  were  presented  to  President  Wightman  and 
Professor  Smith,  by  Mr.  King,  in  behalf  of  his  fellow 


342  Miscelianeojis  Papers. 

students.  In  response  to  these  appropriate  gifts,  our 
worthy  friends,  Drs.  Wightman  and  Smith,  bade 
adieu  to  the  students  of  Wofford  and  the  friends 
with  whom  they  had  been  so  long  and  pleasantly 
associated.  Hard  indeed  must  have  been  the  heart 
that  was  not  moved  in  witnessing  this  leave-taking. 
Nearly  all  of  the  large  audience  were  bathed  in  tears. 
Dr.  Wightman  thinks  he  obeyed  a  call  of  Providence 
in  accepting  the  Presidency  of  a  College  in  Alabama ; 
and  yet,  I  must  be  permitted  to  express  the  opinion 
that  he  erred  in  resigning  the  Presidency  of  Wofford 
College. 

Dr.  Wightman  had  grown  up  among  us ;  his  influ- 
ence and  usefulness  were  felt  and  appreciated  :  he  is 
beloved  by  all,  and  it  is  to  be  regretted  that  he  con- 
sented to  dissolve  his  connection  with  the  South  Car- 
olina Conference  and  her  institutions.  Our  new 
President  elect  is  known  to  be  a  man  of  superior 
ability.  The  Board  of  Trustees  were  gratified  in 
finding  a  Shipp,  to  take  the  place  occupied  by  Dr. 
Wightman.  Dr.  Dogget,  was  unanimously  elected 
to  fill  the  vacancy  occasioned  by  the  resignation  of 
Professor  Smith.  Dr.  D.,  is  not  only  one  of  the 
strongest  men  in  the  Virginia  Conference,  but  in  the 
Church,  South. 

The  laymen  of  the  M.  E.  Church,  are  evidencing 
their  interest  in  our  Church  Institutions  by  the  large 
attendance  on  Commencement  occasions.  None  of 
them  have  taken  greater  interest  or  seemed  to  be 
more  gratified  with  the  exercises,  than  His  Excel- 
lency,   Governor    Gist.      I    have  been    mortified    to 


Miscellaneous  Papers.  343 

observe  among  a  certain  portion  of  the  clergy  in  our 
church,  a  growing  jealousy  of  the  laity.  I  should 
like  to  know  what  they  have  to  fear  from  the  laymen 
of  the  M.  E.  Church  ?  They  do  not  ask  to  be  bish- 
ops, presiding  elders,  or  preachers,  or  even  to  be 
made  church  editors.  Blot  out  the  lay  element  in 
our  great  church  organization,  and  you  will  have  a 
splendid  piece  of  machinery,  without  a  main-spring 
to  impel  it.  Who  build  your  colleges  and  churches  ? 
Clothe  and  feed  the  ministers  and  their  families? 
Where  does  the  missionary  and  Bible  money  come 
from  ?  All  that  the  laymen  of  our  church  ask  or 
wish,  is  the  privilege  of  being  co-workers  in  the 
great  cause  of  their  Master.  They  ask  not  the  power 
of  making  bishops,  or  priests,  they  do  not  even  desire 
the  privilege  of  choosing  their  own  preacher,  but  sup- 
port cordially  and  heartily  the  man  whom  the  bishop 
in  his  wisdom  may  send  to  minister  to  them.  They 
are  willing  to  labor  in  the  church  as  humble  class 
leaders,  stewards,  and  trustees,  as  Sunday-school 
teachers  and  superintendents,  and  to  contribute  liber- 
ally of  their  means  to  push  on  the  old  Ship  of  Zion, 
to  build  up  the  church  of  their  fathers,  the  church 
they  love  and  reverence.  Yours  truly, 

G.  W.  W. 
July  161/1,  1859. 


CITY  COUNCIL  OF  CHARLESTON,  1859. 


Alderman  Williams,  from  the  Special  Committee 
on  the  proceedings  of  the  Chamber  of  Commerce,  in 
relation  to  the  Dredge  Boat,  made  the  following 
minority  report,  which  was  laid  over  until  the  majority 
report  comes  up  for  consideration  : 

REPORT. 

The  communication  from  the  Chamber  of  Com- 
merce in  reference  to  the  Dredge  Boat,  was  referred 
to  a  Special  Committee  of  three.  Two  members  of 
that  committee  having,  at  the  last  meeting  of  Coun- 
cil, made  a  report  in  favor  of  continuing  the  work  of 
dredging,  at  the  expense  of  the  city,  I  beg  leave  now 
to  make  a  minority  report. 

I  have  investigated  the  whole  matter  carefully,  and 
cannot  see  that  the  commerce  of  Charleston  is  jeop- 
arded by  the  withdrawal  of  the  Dredge  Boat.  At 
least  not  enough  to  warrant  the  city  in  embarking  in 
an  enterprise  in  which  so  large  an  expenditure  of 
money  is  involved.  The  Committee  from  the  Cham- 
ber of  Commerce  estimated  the  expenses  of  the  boat 
at  fifty  to  sixty  thousand  dollars  per  annum.  To  pay 
this  heavy  sum,  it  would  require  an  increase  of  the 
taxes  of  one-fourth  of  one  per  cent,  on  all  the  real 
estate  in  Charleston.     Are  we  not  already  driving  off 


Miscellaneous  Papers.  345 

our  citizens  by  high  taxation,  thereby  lessening  the 
value  of  real  estate,  and  affecting  the  interests  of  the 
city  generally  ? 

There  are  many  of  our  experienced  business  men 
who  are  unwilling  to  admit  that  the  Beach  Channel 
has  been  improved  in  depth  from  any  other  causes 
than  those  that  first  produced  the  effect  of  deepening 
it  from  almost  a  dry  shoal  to  the  depth  of  ten  feet  at 
low  tide,  and  that  depth  was  attained  before  the  Dredge 
Boat  was  heard  of. 

Several  of  the  captains  of  the  pilot  boats,  who  have 
long  been  acquainted  with  the  Charleston  harbor, 
were  interrogated  by  Aldermen  Inglesby  and  Frost. 

They  were  asked :  "  Has  the  navigation  of  the 
channel  been  rendered  dangerous  in  consequence  of 
the  stoppage  of  the  Dredge  Boat  ?" 

Capt.  B. — I  think  not. 

Capt.  McD. — Not  more  so  than  before. 

Capt.  C. — I  think  not. 

Capt.  A.— No. 

Capt.  A. — I  do  not  think  it  has  as  yet,  though  I 
have  not  as  much  confidence  in  it  as  I  had  three 
months  ago. 

"  Is  it  likely  soon  to  become  dangerous  if  the  chan- 
nel is  not  worked  upon?" 

Capt.  B. — Can  give  no  opinion. 

Capt.  McD. — I  am  not  prepared  to  answer  decidedly. 
I  think  it  may  remain  as  good  as  it  is  for  months,  un- 
less some  unforeseen  cause  presents,  which  the  Dredge 
Boat  could  not  ward  off. 

Capt.  A. — Nothing  can  prove  that  but  time. 
44 


346  Miscellaneous  Papers. 

Capt.  C. — I  have  not  sounded  lately,  and  can  give 
no  opinion. 

Capt.  A. — Can  give  no  opinion. 

"  What  is  the  present  condition  of  the  Ship  Chan- 
nel ;  is  it  as  good  as  it  was  before  the  Sullivan's  Island 
Channel  was  dredged  out  ?" 

Capt.  C. — I  see  no  difference  for  twenty  years. 

Capt.  A.— I  think  there  is  no  difference ;  there  is 
more  shoal  water  in  the  inside  of  the  bar,  but  ves- 
sels of  the  same  draught  can  be  carried  out  that  ever 
could. 

Capt.  McD. — Not  having  sounded  the  Ship  Chan- 
nel, I  am  not  prepared  to  say,  but  think  there  is  very 
little  difference. 

Capt.  B. — I  do  not  think  it  has  as  much  water. 

Capt.  A. — I  think  there  is  very  little  difference,  if  any. 

It  will  be  seen  from  the  answers  given  by  the  cap- 
tains of  the  pilot  boats,  that  they  do  not  consider  the 
dangers  arising  from  the  navigation  to  have  been 
greatly  increased  by  the  stoppage  of  the  Dredge  Boat. 

But  even  if  the  Beach  Channel  should  become  a 
dry  shoal,  we  have  the  Ship  Channel,  which  has 
answered  all  the  requirements  of  our  commerce  for 
the  last  hundred  years,  and  it  is  as  good  now  as  it 
ever  was. 

I  find  much  greater  complaint  among  the  ship- 
owners of  a  scarcity  of  freights,  than  a  scarcity  of 
water  on  the  bar. 

It  is  not  probable  that  the  receipts  of  cotton,  rice, 
grain,  and  naval  stores  will  increase  at  this  port 
beyond  the  capacity  of  the  shippers  to  send  it  away. 


Miscellaneous  Papers.  347 

The  commerce  of  Charleston  has  adapted  itself  to 
the  old  Ship  Channel.  Packets  are  now  constructed 
capable  of  carrying  four  thousand  bales  of  cotton, 
which  enter  our  harbor  without  difficulty.  For  dis- 
patch and  cheapness,  the  rates  of  freight  to  and  from 
Charleston  will  compare  favorably  with  any  other 
port  in  the  Southern  States. 

It  is  not  at  all  certain  that  the  rates  of  freight 
would  rule  lower,  even  with  twenty-five  feet  of  water 
on  the  bar.  All  commercial  men  know  that  large 
ships  are  very  slow  in  their  movements — it  requiring 
weeks  to  load  and  discharge.  Steamships  are  fast 
driving  from  the  ocean  the  large  sailing  packets,  and 
it  is  the  judgment  of  many  that  a  line  of  propellers, 
to  run  between  this  port  and  Liverpool,  would  pay 
well,  and  prove  highly  beneficial  to  the  interests  of 
Charleston.  To  me  it  is  clearly  inexpedient  and 
unwise  for  the  city  either  to  buy  or  hire  the  Dredge 
Boat.  The  Treasurer's  books  will  show  a  large  sum 
of  money  lost  by  the  city  a  few  years  ago  in  advanc- 
ing on  a  Dredge  Boat  that  proved  worthless.  It  is 
the  duty  of  the  General  Government,  and  not  the 
City  Corporation,  to  dredge  the  bars  which  obstruct 
the  harbors  of  the  commercial  sea-port  towns. 
Respectfully  submitted. 

G.  W.  W. 


THE  BEACH  CHANNEL  AND  DREDGE  BOAT 


[for  the  mercury.] 

I  have  neither  the  time  nor  inclination  to  enter  into 
a  Beach  Channel  and  Dredge  Boat  controversy.  I 
beg  leave,  however,  to  notice  a  gratuitous  charge 
made  by  "  Deep  Water,"  in  Monday's  Mercury.  He 
says  my  object  in  defeating  the  whole  enterprise,  and 
all  such  undertakings,  is  to  show  the  community  that 
our  scientific  men,  our  previous  Councils  and  State 
Legislatures,  were  sadly  in  want  of  sagacity  when 
they  attempted  to  improve  our  commerce  by  deepen- 
ing Beach  Channel."  I  have  nothing  to  do  with  pre- 
vious Councils  or  State  Legislatures. 

The  present  City  Council  was  asked  by  the  Cham- 
ber of  Commerce  to  buy  or  hire  the  Dredge  Boat. 
A  Special  Committee  was  appointed  to  take  the  sug- 
gestion into  consideration.  I  regretted  very  much  that 
I  could  not  agree  with  the  majority  in  their  recom- 
mendations— hence  the  necessity  of  a  minority  report. 
I  have  seen  calculations  made  by  scientific  and  "  Deep 
Water"  gentlemen  before,  and  have  seen  the  result  of 
those  estimates.  The  city  has  been  embarrassed  with 
an  enormous  debt  and  ruinous  taxation.  Our  com- 
merce has  been  drained  into  the  Mississippi  River  by 
them.  A  few  years  ago  the  debt  of  Charleston  was 
only  a  million  and  a  half  of  dollars,  and  the  taxes 
half  of  one  per  cent. ;  now  we  find  a  debt  of  nearly 
five  millions  of  dollars,  and  taxes  more  than  trebled. 


Miscellaneous  Papers.  349 

The  "scientific"  and  "Deep  Water"  gentlemen 
told  us  a  railroad  connection  with  the  West  would 
double,  the  value  of  real  estate,  and  greatly  increase 
our  commerce.  Our  worthy  City  Assessor  taking  it 
for  granted  that  those  statements  would  prove  true, 
and  finding  it  necessary  to  raise  a  larger  sum  of  money 
to  pay  the  interest  on  the  city  debt,  added  to  the 
former  assessments  twenty-five  to  one  hundred  per 
cent. 

In  1852  the  writer  paid  on  his  residence  half  of  one 
per  cent.,  assessed  at  seven  thousand  dollars.  Three 
years  later  he  paid  one  and  a  half  per  cent,  on  the 
same  property,  then  valued  at  fifteen  thousand  dol- 
lars, (some  small  improvements  had  been  made  at  a 
cost  of  about  one  thousand  dollars.)  Here  was  an 
increase  of  eight  thousand  dollars,  making  the  taxes 
more  than  three  per  cent,  on  former  valuation.  Other 
tax-payers  make  similar  complaints  ;  and  if  an  attempt 
is  made  to  correct  this  state  of  things,  we  are  charged 
with  "ignorance"  of  the  wants  and  requirements  of 
our  city.  "  Deep  Water"  says  :  "  I  would  be  satisfied 
with  just  water  enough  on  the  Bar  to  float  a  fishing 
smack."  Unless  he  and  other  scientific  gentlemen 
will  pull  off  their  coats  and  go  to  work  in  the  right 
way  to  build  up  the  commerce  of  Charleston,  she 
will  only  require  "fishing  smacks"  to  carry  off  the 
produce  that  comes  to  the  wharves.  Does  he  know 
that,  in  consequence  of  the  great  scarcity  of  freight, 
our  first-class  steamships  are  taking  flour  to  New  York 
for  fifteen  cents  per  barrel ;  also  cotton,  and  other 
produce,  at  corresponding  low  rates  ?     Is  he  ignorant 


350  Miscellaneous  Papers. 

of  the  fact  that  a  few  respectable  sized  fishing  smacks 
could  carry  all  the  freight  that  is  offering  at  this  port? 
This  is  a  humiliating  disclosure,  but,  nevertheless,  true. 

Will  "Deep  Water"  explain  what  were  the  causes 
that  produced  a  depth  of  nine  feet  of  water  on  com- 
paratively a  dry  shoal,  before  the  Dredge  Boat  was 
introduced  ?  Is  it  not  reasonable  to  suppose  that  the 
same  causes,  if  left  undisturbed,  would  continue  their 
work  until  a  depth  of  twelve  feet  at  low  water  was 
attained,  and  that,  too,  without  the  aid  of  artificial 
means  ?  Why  is  it  that  the  Chamber  of  Commerce 
and  "  Deep  Water "  are  so  anxious  to  have  the  city 
embark  in  this  enterprise  ?  They  admit  that  it  is  the 
work  of  the  General  Government  and  the  State  to 
keep  open  the  harbors  of  the  commercial  sea-port 
towns.  Both  legislative  bodies  will  soon  be  in  session ; 
a  little  delay  will  certainly  not  greatly  injure  the  com- 
merce of  Charleston.  The  city  and  State  taxes  of 
some  of  our  commercial  houses  have  been  increased 
from  a  few  hundred  dollars  to  several  thousand  per 
annum.  If  our  merchants  are  expected  to  compete 
successfully  with  the  cities  North,  it  will  not  do  to 
embarrass  them  by  further  increased  taxation.  The 
tidal  drains,  and  other  important  improvements  in 
Charleston,  will  necessarily  require  large  sums  of 
money.  Why,  then,  should  Council  be  called  on  to 
do  what  is  not  the  legitimate  work  of  the  city  corpo- 
ration, and  a  work,  too,  which  is  regarded  as  doubtful 
in  its  benefits  by  many  of  our  most  experienced  busi- 
ness men  ? 

September  26,  1859.  G.  W.  W. 


THE  OLD  BOOK  DEPOSITORY  OF  THE  SOUTH 
CAROLINA  CONFERENCE. 


The  year  1839  being  the  centenary  of  Methodism, 
it  was  celebrated  by  the  Methodists  of  South  Caro- 
lina and  Georgia  in  a  joyous  thank-offering.  A  large 
sum  of  money  was  obtained  by  twenty,  fifty  and  one 
hundred  dollar  subscriptions,  to  be  divided,  one-fifth 
to  missions,  two-fifths  for  educational  purposes,  and 
the  residue  for  the  establishment  of  a  Book  Deposi- 
tory in  Charleston. 

The  Rev.  Whitefoord  Smith,  in  a  communication 
published  in  the  Southern  Christian  Advocate,  as 
early  as  November,  1838,  made  the  suggestion  that 
part  of  the  centenary  collections  should  be  applied  to 
the  erection  of  a  Southern  Book  Room  in  Charles- 
ton. Both  preachers  and  laymen  went  to  work  in 
earnest  to  raise  a  sum  worthy  the  objects  they  had 
undertaken.  Our  lamented  Bishop  Capers — in  that 
day  the  leader  of  good  works  in  the  South  Carolina 
Conference — put  the  enterprise  in  motion.  His  noble 
efforts  were  heartily  seconded  in  this  Conference  by 
Smith,  Wightman,  Bass,  Kennedy,  Talley,  Stacy, 
Martin,  Walker,  Betts,  Bryce,  Penn,  Bird,  Wagner 
and  others,  and  in  the  Georgia  Conference  by  our 
beloved  Bishop  Andrew,  Few,  Pierce,  Longstreet, 
Parks,  Glenn,  Key,  Evans,  Means,  Mann,  Garvin, 
Chase  and  others. 


352  Miscellaneous  Papers. 

The  committee  appointed  for  the  purpose  of  select- 
ing a  suitable  location  for  the  Depository,  Advocate 
Office  and  Printing  establishment,  purchased  a  lot 
twenty-three  and  a  half  feet  wide  and  one  hundred 
and  eighty  feet  deep,  running  north  and  south  from 
Hayne  to  Pinckney  street.  The  cost  was  eight 
thousand  dollars,  in  five  annual  instalments  of  sixteen 
hundred  dollars  each,  bearing  interest  from  date.  As 
the  location  was  in  the  centre  of  the  wholesale  trade, 
it  was  regarded  as  a  desirable  and  fortunate  selection. 
At  that  time  property  on  Hayne  street  was  very 
much  inflated,  and  in  consequence  of  the  great  fire  of 
1838  building  materials  and  mechanical  labor  in 
Charleston  was  unprecedentedly  high,  thus  making 
the  houses  which  were  erected  for  the  Book  and 
Advocate  establishment  cost  a  very  large  sum  of 
money.  Our  liberal-minded  Methodists,  however, 
were  determined  to  have  a  Depository  of  their  own, 
to  enable  them  to  distribute  our  Church  literature 
more  generally  among  the  people. 

A  suitable  building  having  been  erected  on  the 
north  end  of  the  lot  in  Pinckney  street  for  the  South- 
ern Christian  Advocate,  the  demand  for  that  popular 
church  paper  was  so  great  that  the  introduction  of 
steam  was  found  necessary.  That  circulation  has 
continued  to  increase  until  eleven  thousand  families 
are  now  supplied  weekly  with  one  of  the  best  relig- 
ious papers  published  in  the  Union.  I  see  no  reason 
why  the  number  should  not  be  increased  to  twenty 
thousand,  thereby  doubling  its  sphere  of  usefulness 
and  its  income  to  the  church.     Our  prosperous  com- 


Miscellaneous  Papers.  353 

mercial  papers  were  recently  contending  for  the  honor 
of  introducing  the  steam  printing  press  into  this  city; 
but  had  finally  to  yield  the  credit  to  the  Advocate. 
The  object  of  this  communication,  however,  is  not  to 
pass  a  eulogy  on  the  Southern  Christian  Advocate, 
but  to  correct  among  members  of  the  South  Carolina 
Conference  an  erroneous  opinion  in  reference  to  the 
results  of  the  Book  Depository. 

It  is  believed  and  asserted  by  some  of  the  preachers, 
that  the  concern  did  a  losing  business.  I  have  made 
a  careful  examination  of  its  affairs  from  the  date  of 
its  establishment  in  this  city,  in  1840,  to  the  present 
time.  I  find  that  the  Book  Depository  has  returned 
to  the  South  Carolina  and  Georgia  Conferences  the 
capital  contributed  by  these  Conferences,  paid  to 
real  estate  one  thousand  four  hundred  and  sixty- 
one  dollars  and  sixty-three  cents,  and  has  deposited 
with  the  Treasurer  of  the  South  Carolina  Conference 
a  bond  of  Stevenson  and  Owen's  for  eight  thousand 
dollars,  with  an  accumulation  of  interest  of  nearly 
two  thousand  dollars. 

The  profits  of  the  Depository,  after  paying  all  expen- 
ses, are  about  thirteen  thousand  five  hundred  dollars, 
from  which  the  bad  debts  have  to  be  deducted.  There 
still  remains  unpaid  some  four  thousand  dollars  of  old 
notes  and  accounts.  Some  of  these  claims  are  against 
ministers  of  the  South  Carolina  and  other  Conferences 
— many  of  whom  have  died  in  the  work,  while  others 
are  superannuated  and  unable  to  pay.  Such  claims 
should  be  cancelled  and  charged  to  profit  and  loss. 
The  bond  for  eight  thousand  dollars  with  the  accu- 
45 


354  Miscellaneous  Papers. 

mulated  interest,  is  by  virtue  of  the  intent  of  the 
donors  the  property  of  the  Book  Depository.  The 
money  collected  for  missions  and  educational  pur- 
poses has  been  applied  as  directed  by  the  donors. 
At  the  ensuing  Conference  an  exhibit  will  be  made  of 
the  receipts  and  expenditures  of  the  Prudential  Com- 
mittee from  its  origin  to  the  present  time. 

Yours  truly, 

G.  W.  W. 
Charleston,  November  10,   1859. 


SOUTH  CAROLINA  ANNUAL  CONFERENCE,  1859. 


Greenville,  December  5,  1859. 

The  South  Carolina  Conference  of  the  Methodist 
Episcopal  Church,  South,  began  its  seventy-second 
session  in  this  pretty  town  on  Wednesday,  30th  ult, 
Bishop  Early  presiding.  The  bishop  is  in  fine  health, 
and  is  progressing  satisfactorily  with  the  business  of 
the  Conference. 

The  Book  and  Tract  Society  of  the  South  Carolina 
Conference,  located  in  Charleston,  made  its  first 
annual  report,  through  its  President,  G.  W.  Williams, 
asking  for  a  transfer  of  the  assets  of  the  old  Metho- 
dist Book  Room  (amounting  to  some  ten  thousand 
dollars)  to  the  Book   and  Tract  Society.     Also,  for 


Miscellaneous  Papers.  355 

the  appointment  of  an  agent  by  the  Conference. 
After  an  animated  discussion  of  some  hours  a  reso- 
lution was  adopted  appointing  the  Rev.  Sam.  Jones 
agent. 

The  Missionary  Society  held  its  anniversary  on 
Saturday  evening,  C.  Betts,  President,  in  the  Chair. 
The  Report  of  the  Board  of  Managers  was  read  by 
Rev.  F.  M.  Kennedy,  and  addresses  delivered  by 
Professor  Carlisle,  of  Wofford  College,  and  Dr. 
Myers,  of  the  Southern  Christian  Advocate. 

Professor  Carlisle's  speech,  although  delivered  with 
only  a  few  hours'  notice,  would  have  done  credit  to  a 
Wightman  or  a  Pierce.  Professor  C.  is  one  of  the 
first  men  of  his  age  in  the  State. 

Dr.  Myers  made  one  of  his  best  efforts.  Fifteen 
hundred  (1500)  dollars  were  promptly  laid  on  the 
table.  The  preachers  contributed  a  large  amount 
of  the  above  sum.  Judging  from  the  manner  in 
which  they  emptied  their  purses,  they  need  not  be 
admonished  that  it  is  hard  for  a  rich  man  to  enter 
the  Kingdom  of  Heaven. 

The  Missionary  collections  for  the  year  will  amount 
to  about  twenty-eight  thousand  dollars  in  this  Con- 
ference. 

Dr.  Myers,  in  his  speech,  advanced  the  idea  that 
the  "  millennium  "  was  near  at  hand.  I  do  not  think 
that  he  was  aware  of  the  fact  that  there  are  more 
than  one  hundred  distilleries  in  a  small  district  in 
this  State,  daily  engaged  in  converting  the  staff  of 
life  into  that  which  not  only  kills  the  body,  but 
destroys  the  soul.     Tell  it  not  in  the  sovereign  State 


356  Miscellaneous  Papers. 

of  South  Carolina,  whose  citizens  are  now  sending  to 
Ohio,  Indiana  and  Illinois  for  bread,  that  within  a 
few  square  miles  one  hundred  manufactories  are 
employed  in  taking  from  the  poor  their  scanty  sup- 
ply of  grain,  and  converting  it  into  poisonous  strych- 
nine whiskey  !    Shame  !    Shame  ! 

This  large  army  of  Methodist  ministers,  although 
they  may  be  brave  enough  to  penetrate  the  miasma 
swamps  of  the  South  to  preach  the  gospel  to  the 
slave,  and  survive  the  hardships  of  the  mountains, 
yet  they  cannot  conquer  the  evil  spirits  which  find 
their  way  into  the  bellies  of  the  swine  that  wallow  in 
the  mud  around  these  dens  of  Satan.  Millennium, 
indeed ! 

I  am  proud  to  see  that  our  Governor,  in  his  mes- 
sage, directed  the  attention  of  the  Legislature  to  the 
evils  arising  from  the  large  accumulation  of  distille- 
ries. His  Excellency  recommends  that  a  tax  be 
levied  on  them  sufficient  to  support  the  paupers  they 
make.  The  City  of  Charleston  has  adopted  this 
plan,  and  for  every  ten  dollars  of  revenue  received 
from  liquor  shops,  it  pays  one  hundred  dollars  to  the 
police  to  watch  them ;  and  the  bar-rooms  fill  the 
almshouse  with  paupers. 

The  Chairman  in  the  City  Council  of  "  Licenses  " 
will  have  much  to  answer  for  the  "  recommendation  " 
he  makes. 

The  members  of  Conference  have  been  hand- 
somely entertained  by  the  citizens  of  Greenville,  of 
all  Christian  denominations.  I  heartily  endorse  the 
language   of    one    of   the    preachers    in    making    his 


Miscellaneous  Papers.  357 

hostess  a  life  member  of  the  Missionary  Society.  He 
said  :  "  If  all  the  ladies  in  Greenville  are  as  clever  as 
my  hostess,  then  Greenville  is  one  of  the  best  towns 
in  the  world." 

They  all  seem  delighted  with  their  homes.     I  am 
quite  sure  that  none  are  more  so  than 

G.  W.  W. 


MISCELLANEOUS  CORRESPONDENCE. 


The  News  in  the  Queen  City  of  fighting  near  Fortress 
Monroe — A  Chapter  of  Blunders — Sentiment  in  Ohio 
— Bacon  and  the  Blockade — Western  Ctirrency — Eng- 
land's Position,  and  how  it  is  Relished — Talk  on 
'Change  in  Porkopolis,  etc.,  etc. 


Cincinnati,  Ohio,  June  12th,   1861. 

I  arrived  in  the  "  Queen  City  of  the  West  "  yester- 
day, from  Lexington,  Ky.  They  had  just  received 
the  news  here  of  the  defeat  of  the  Federal  troops  near 
Fortress  Monroe ;  and  bitter  curses  are  being  show- 
ered, not  only  on  the  heads  of  the  rebels,  but  on  the 
United  States  officers,  who  are  charged  with  being 
incompetent  to  command  the  troops  entrusted  to 
them. 

It  appears  that  orders  were  given  to  surround  the 
"  traitors,"  but  the  famous  German  company  did  not 
know  the  difference  between  a  South  Carolina  seces- 
sionist and  a  New  Yorker.  They  commenced  firing 
on  Colonel  Townsend's  Albany  Regiment ;  the  Zou- 
aves and  Massachusetts  regiments  took  a  part  in  the 
action,  when  the  fight  became  general.  The  Germans 
gained  the  battle,  and  succeeded  in  capturing  quite  a 
number   of    New   York  troops !      Brigadier-General 


360  Miscellaneous  Correspondence. 

Pierce  commanded  the  expedition  ;  he  "  lost  his  pres- 
ence of  mind ;"  it  was  fortunate  for  him  that  he  did 
not  lose  his  head.  They  say  he  ought  to  be  sent 
back  to  Boston  at  once.  The  War  Department  is 
censured  for  delay,  and  for  appointing  officers  wholly 
incompetent  to  discharge  their  duties.  Another  great 
embarrassment  the  Department  labors  under  is  having 
enlisted  the  men  for  only  three  months.  When  the 
ninety  days  expire,  a  large  number  of  volunteers, 
having  seen  quite  enough  of  camp  life,  will  return 
to  their  homes.  The  true  secret  is,  they  are  discov- 
ering that  the  "  protection  of  the  American  flag  "  is 
only  a  masked  battery  of  Lincoln,  from  behind  which 
he  expects  to  subjugate  the  South.  So  far  as  I  can 
learn,  the  people  of  Ohio  do  not  engage  heartily  in 
such  a  warfare.  They  know  that  without  the  trade 
of  the  slave-holding  States,  the  West  will  be  greatly 
damaged.  From  what  I  have  seen  and  heard  in 
Indiana  and  this  State,  I  am  convinced  they  are  get- 
ting very  tired  of  the  Lincoln  blockade.  The  effects 
of  the  war  and  the  blockade  of  the  Mississippi  and 
Ohio  rivers,  are  fast  making  the  whole  West  bank- 
rupt. Bacon  and  provisions  are  going  to  waste  for 
the  want  of  purchasers.  I  am  making  arrangements 
for  provisions  here,  which  will  be  shipped  South  via 
Louisville,  Ky.  We  have  many  friends  in  the  West 
who  will  do  all  in  their  power  to  feed  our  Confederate 
boys. 

It  is  estimated  that  there  are  twenty  millions  of 
pounds  of  bacon  and  pork  in  this  city  alone.  Bacon 
is  selling  at  five  to  seven  cents,  corn  seven  to  ten 


Miscellaneous  Correspondence.  361 

cents  per  bushel,  and  butter,  lard,  and  cheese  five  to 
ten  cents  per  pound.  A  man  from  Indiana  told  me 
that  in  the  prairies,  where  wood  was  scarce,  they  were 
actually  using  corn  for  fuel !  A  strong  delegation 
has  gone  to  Washington  to  represent  the  true  state  of 
things ;  and  if  they  are  not  heard,  you  may  look  out 
for  an  uprising  in  the  West.  The  currency  of  the 
Western  States  is  becoming  worthless,  as  the  State 
stocks  and  bonds  which  were  deposited  as  security 
for  the  redemption  of  the  bank-notes,  are  sold  in  New 
York  at  thirty  to  forty  per  cent,  on  the  dollar,  leaving 
very  little  to  indemnify  the  holders  of  bank  bills. 

The  true  interests  of  the  Western  people  are  all 
with  the  South.  The  Morrill  Tariff  is  as  objection- 
able and  injurious  to  them  as  to  us. 

The  Northern  papers  are  down  on  England 
savagely,  for  countenancing,  in  any  manner,  the 
rebels.  They  say  a  recognition  of  the  Southern  Con- 
federacy will  be  regarded  by  the  United  States  as  a 
declaration  of  war !  I  wonder  if  John  Bull  isn't 
scared  ?  I  have  been  treated  kindly  and  politely  in 
Cincinnati.  The  Union  feeling,  however,  is  very 
strong.  They  nearly  all  say  the  Government  must 
be  maintained,  and  they  feel  confident,  with  the  men 
and  means  at  the  command  of  the  administration,  the 
Union  can  and  will  be  restored.  They  do  not 
acknowledge  that  it  has  been  dissolved.  JMy  old 
friends  expressed  a  good  deal  of  surprise  at  seeing 
me  here,  and  feared  I  was  in  danger  of  arrest.  I 
explained  to  them  the  object  of  my  visit,  and  do  not 
46 


362  Miscellaneous  Correspondence. 

think  I  shall  be  sent  to  Fort  Deleware.  If  disputes 
were  left  to  commercial  men,  we  should  have  no  more 
wars  to  ruin  and  devastate  the  country. 

I  received  an  invitation  to  visit  the  Merchants' 
Exchange  to-day.  They  talked  politics  and  war  more 
than  commerce.  My  friends  there  discussed  the  pro- 
priety, or  impropriety,  of  my  visiting  Camps  Denni- 
son  and  Clay,  which  are  located  some  twenty  miles 
above  here,  in  the  Miami  Valley.  From  what  I  can 
learn,  the  majority  of  the  troops  are  good  Democrats, 
and  I  think  they  will  not  molest  me.  A  friend  has 
promised  to  see  me  through.  If  you  do  not  hear 
from  me  again,  you  may  know  that  I  am  a  prisoner 
of  war.  I  do  not  fear,  however,  but  that  I  shall 
return  safely. 

Yours  truly, 

G.  W.  W. 


A  Visit  to  Camp  Dennison — Eighteen  Thousand  Hes- 
sians in  Camp — Drilling  in  Shirt  Sleeves — Germans 
Drilling  by  the  Bugle — Popular  Delusions  at  the  North 
— Bob  Anderson  and  his  Pictures — His  "Kentucky" 
Regiment,  etc.,  etc. 


Cincinnati,  Ohio,  June,  1861. 

In  my  last,  I  informed  you  that  I  had  an  invitation 
to  visit  "  Camp  Dennison."  A  friend  having  procured 
a  permit  from  headquarters  to  "  pass  two  gentlemen 
through  the  camp,"  we  took  our  departure  on  the 
Ohio  and  Mississippi  Railroad.  Twenty  miles'  pleas- 
ant ride  brought  us  to  the  largest  military  camp  that 
I  had  ever  beheld.  The  soldiers  have  comfortable 
quarters,  built  of  plank,  extending  for  more  than  a 
mile  on  each  side  of  the  road,  located  in  the  beautiful 
valley  of  the  Miami. 

A  large  farm  containing  several  hundred  acres  was 
rented  by  the  State.  Fields  of  beautiful  wheat  are 
trampled  underfoot,  in  teaching  men  the  science  of 
war,  who  are  to  engage  in  fighting  their  brethren  of 
the  South.  There  are  eighteen  regiments — in  all  about 
twenty  thousand  men.  Some  eight  hundred  acres  of 
ground  were  literally  covered  at  one  time  by  soldiers 
and  spectators.  I  was  informed  that,  in  several  com- 
panies, the  sons  of  the  most  wealthy  and  influential 
citizens  had  enlisted  for  the  war,  and  were  quite  willing 
to  endure  the  hardships  of  a  soldier's  life  to  protect 


364  Miscellaneous  C01responden.ce. 

the  flag !  A  large  majority  of  the  regiments  drilled 
in  their  shirt  sleeves,  unarmed.  Only  two  regiments 
were  fully  equipped.  The  Guthrie  Grays  seemed  well 
drilled,  and  presented  quite  a  soldier-like  appearance ; 
but  the  great  centre  of  attraction  was  the  German 
Regiment.  According  to  my  judgment,  they  were 
the  best  drilled  body  of  soldiers  I  ever  saw.  Many 
of  them  had  served  in  the  Crimean  war.  Their  orders 
are  all  given  in  German.  The  Colonel  of  the  regi- 
ment takes  a  central  position,  with  his  buglemen  to 
his  right ;  and  his  word  of  command  is  issued  mainly 
through  the  shrill  war  trumpet.  The  bugle  can  be 
heard  much  further  and  more  distinctly  than  the 
human  voice.  I  should  think  the  war  trumpet  would 
come  into  more  general  use  by  our  people. 

The  severe  and  efficient  drilling  these  hardy  Western 
boys  are  daily  undergoing,  will  soon  make  them 
efficient  and  formidable  soldiers.  I  am  fully  satisfied, 
from  what  I  have  seen  in  the  States  of  Ohio  and 
Indiana,  that  we  are  underrating  the  fighting  materials 
of  our  enemy.  They  have  the  men,  means  and  dispo- 
sition to  carry  on  a  destructive  war,  and  are  united 
almost  to  a  man.  Hundreds  of  thousands  of  men 
are  thrown  out  of  employment,  and  they  join  the 
army  as  a  pecuniary  necessity.  Physically  they  will 
compare  favorably  with  any  people  on  the  globe,  and 
I  do  not  think  we  have  any  good  reason  for  doubting 
their  bravery.  If  they  could  find  honest  employ- 
ment very  few  would  engage  in  fighting  the  South, 
but  they  are  made  to  believe  that  their  existence 
depends  on  their  subjugating  the   "Southern  rebels." 


Miscellaneous  Correspondence.  365 

I  have  conversed  freely  and  unreservedly  with  intelli- 
gent men  from  nearly  all  the  Western  States,  and  I 
am  satisfied  the  majority  of  them  are  laboring  under 
the  blindest  delusion  as  to  the  true  condition  of  affairs 
in  the  Confederate  States.  Their  newspapers  make 
them  believe  that  in  all  the  Slave-holding  States, 
except  South  Carolina,  the  "  loyal  men  "  are  almost 
equal  in  number  to  the  "  traitors,"  and  that  they 
stand  ready  to  fight  under  the  Federal  flag  whenever 
they  can  be  safe'  in  so  doing  ;  and  they  believe  also 
that  we  are  in  a  starving  condition,  destitute  of  all 
the  elements  to  carry  on  a  successful  war.  When  I 
told  them  our  people  were  prosperous,  and  that  our 
planters  had  sold  their  crops  of  cotton  and  rice,  and 
realized  high  prices,  and  that  we  had  provisions,  men 
and  money,  with  the  promise  of  abundant  crops,  and 
a  certainty  that  our  ports  would  be  opened  to  send  out 
the  cotton  and  bring  in  for  it  hundreds  of  millions  of 
gold  annually ;  and  that  there  were  not  a  corporal's 
guard  to  be  found  in  the  Confederate  States  who 
would  fight  against  their  people  under  the  Lincoln 
flag — they  put  me  down  as  a  crazy  South  Carolinian ; 
but  I  imagine  some  of  them  were  convinced  that  the 
Lincoln  blockade  was  pinching  the  wrong  foot.  A 
few  of  them  were  put  to  thinking,  but  what  will  be 
the  result  of  all  this  time  can  only  reveal. 

The  pious  hero  of  Fort  Sumter  is  here  stopping 
with  his  brother.  Many  believe  Major  Anderson 
to  be  an  ungrateful,  selfish  man.  In  the  various 
speeches  he  has  made  since  he  left  the  South,  no 
word  of  thanks  has  escaped  his  lips  for  the  innumer- 


366  Miscellaneous  Correspondence. 

able  acts  of  kindness  bestowed  on  him  by  the  gener- 
ous and  kind-hearted  citizens  of  Charleston.  And 
even  the  courtesies  extended  to  him  and  his  command 
by  General  Beauregard  have  been  basely  perverted 
and  misrepresented.  Major  A.  having  washed  his 
Puritanical  hands  of  slavery  by  selling  his  negroes  in 
New  Orleans  to  the  highest  bidder,  is  now  thought  to 
be  as  good  a  free-soiler  as  his  brother  who  resides  in 
this  city.  You  will  remember  he  married  Miss 
Clinch,  of  Georgia,  who  inherited  a  large  number  of 
slaves.  The  Major  has  no  hold  on  the  people  of 
Kentucky  or  the  West.  His  photograph  is  to  be 
seen  in  the  shop  windows  of  cheap  picture  stores. 
The  price  has  fallen  to  twenty-five  cents,  with  a  liberal 
deduction  for  cash,  and  Illinois  currency  would  be 
received  in  payment.  I  have  seen  the  famous  Ken- 
tucky regiment  you  have  heard  that  Anderson  was 
to  command.  It  is  said  to  be  made  up  of  bastard- 
sons  of  Kentucky,  born  in  Indiana,  and  educated  in 
Ohio.  They  are  a  rough-looking  set  of  fellows,  and 
will  doubtless  be  useful  to  Lincoln  in  storming  the 
hen-roosts  of  Virginia.  The  story  goes  that  when 
the  gallant  Major  beheld  the  material  of  which  they 
were  composed  his  health  failed  him. 

G.  W.  W. 


Lincoln  and  Crittenden — Neutrality  an  Exploded  Idea — 

Position   of  Kentucky — Price   of  Provisions  on  both 

sides  of  the   Ohio —  Western  Produce  cannot  be   kept 

out  of  the  South — The   West  about  to  Kick  against 

Yankee dom — Prospect  of  Four  Republics,  etc.,  etc. 


Louisville,  Ky.,  June  14,   1861. 

When  I  was  here  a  few  days  ago,  I  deposited  in 
the  post  office  a  letter  directed  to  the  Charleston 
"  Mercury."  I  was  not  aware  then  that  the  President 
had  ordered  that  all  letters  for  the  Confederate  States 
should  be  sent  to  the  Dead  Letter  Office  at  Washing- 
ton, to  be  pillaged  and  inspected  by  his  hirelings. 

The  other  day,  when  I  heard  the  venerable  Critten- 
den at  Lexington  begging  the  people  to  send  him  to 
Washington,  that  he  might  have  another  opportunity 
of  falling  on  his  knees  and  praying  to  the  Black 
Republican  party  to  stay  the  hand  of  desolation  and 
destruction,  I  could  feel  nothing  but  contempt  for 
this  once  honored  man.  Crittenden  might  as  well 
pray  to  the  mummies  of  Egypt  as  to  the  fanatical 
"  beauty  and  booty  "  party.  It  is  folly  for  any  slave- 
holding  State  to  dream  of  occupying  a  neutral  position 
in  this  great  struggle  for  State  rights  and  equal  lib- 
erty. The  Abolition  party  is  pledged  to  "wipe  out" 
a  certain  institution.  No  man  can  doubt  on  which 
side  Kentucky  will  be  found  in  the  fight  now  going 


368  Miscellaneous  Correspondence. 

on,  provided  she  is  not  kept  down  by  the  Federal 
bayonets.  She  has  many  noble  sons  who  are  true  to 
us,  and  at  the  right  time  they  will  let  themselves  be 
felt  and  heard.  But  Dalilah  is  now  dandling  this 
Sampson  of  the  West  on  her  lap.  The  razor  is  being 
delicately  applied — a  few  locks  have  already  been 
clipped.  This  Sampson,  however,  sleeps  with  one  eye 
open  to  the  immense  trade  he  is  receiving  from  the 
Confederate  States ;  the  other  eye  is  shut  to  all  the 
Lincoln  bars  which  are  necessarily  left  down  along 
the  line  of  seven  hundred  miles  of  border  States,  and 
through  which  many  of  the  products  of  the  rich  West 
are  and  will  be  smuggled.  If  bacon,  butter  and  lard, 
in  the  States  of  Ohio,  Indiana  and  Illinois,  just  on  the 
opposite  side  of  the  river,  are  only  worth  six  to  ten 
cents  per  pound,  it  is  not  strange  that,  by  some  secret 
process,  these  articles  will  be  transported  across  the 
river,  especially  as  they  are  doubled  in  value  by  the 
operation.  One  of  Sampson's  strong  locks  is  the 
Louisville  Railroad.  The  Philistines  of  Cincinnati 
insist  on  having  it  clippled ;  but  their  master,  Abra- 
ham, is  afraid  that  such  an  act  would  arouse  the  strong 
man  from  his  slumber ;  he  begs  them  to  wait,  at  least, 
till  after  the  election  ;  and  then  he  promises,  not  only 
to  shave  the  head  of  this  Sampson  of  his  locks,  but 
to  put  out  both  eyes.  They  had  better  look  out,  and 
see  that  the  house  is  not  pulled  down  on  their  own 
heads.  It  is  foolish  to  talk  of  stopping  supplies  from 
coming  into  the  Confederate  States  from  the  West- 
The  corn  and  hog-growing  States  of  Ohio  and  Indiana 
have  too  great  a  relish  for  Southern  gold  to  be  shut 


Miscellaneous  Correspondence.  369 

out  by  a  paper  blockade.  You  might  blot  out  every 
mile  of  railroad  in  Kentucky,  and  the  provisions 
would  find  their  way  South. 

It  is  my  belief  that  the  day  is  not  far  distant  when 
the  Western  politician  will  take  the  field  against  the 
Republican  party,  and  will  carry  everything  before 
them  by  an  overwhelming  majority.  From  what  I 
have  seen  and  heard  I  am  clearly  of  the  opinion  that, 
with  California,  the  Northwest  and  the  Northeast,  we 
are  to  have  four  American  Republics  made  up  from 
the  wreck  of  the  late  United  States. 

The  great  American  family  have  grown  too  large, 
and  its  interests  are  too  varied  to  live  under  the  same 
Government  Laws  which  are  necessary  and  benefi- 
cial to  one  section,  are  injurious  and  destructive  to 
another.  We  of  the  South  are  an  agricultural  people 
and  do  not  require  the  high  tariff  which  is  necessary 
to  the  protection  of  the  New  England  manufacturers. 
The  South  has  contributed  largely  to  the  wealth  of 
the  North.  The  merchant  princes  are  not  willing  to 
give  up  the  immense  trade  of  the  Confederate  States. 
What  care  they  for  the  orphans  and  widows,  the  wail 
and  woe  which  will  be  created  all  over  the  land  by  a 
protracted  war,  if  they  can  secure  a  trade  they  have 
so  long  enjoyed  ?  It  is  a  war  with  them  of  dollars 
and  cents.  Let  them  remember  that  Judas  sold  our 
blessed  Saviour  for  money.  How  much  good  did  it 
do  him  ?  There  is  a  great  panic  here  in  the  bonds  of 
the  Southern  States  ;  they  can  be  bought  at  thirty  to 
forty  cents  on  the  dollar. 

G.  W.  W. 
47 


MERCHANDISE  AND  CURRENCY  EFFECTED  BY 
THE  WAR. 


DOWN    WITH    MONOPOLIES. 


It  has  become  very  fashionable  of  late,  both  in  town 
and  country,  to  cry  out  against  monopolies,  and  abuse 
roundly  those  who  are  engaged  in  trade,  charging 
them  with  monopolizing  provisions  and  merchandise 
throughout  the  country,  for  the  purpose  of  taking 
advantage  of  the  necessities  of  the  people  by  exact- 
ing "exorbitant"  prices.  The  very  merchants  who 
have  been  most  active  in  guarding  and  providing 
against  the  state  of  things  which  are  now  complained 
of,  by  importing  heavily  when  they  had  an  opportu- 
nity, and  using  every  honest  means  in  their  power  at 
great  hazard  and  expense  to  increase  the  supplies, 
thereby  equalizing  prices,  are  modestly  called  "land 
pirates,"  "  sharks,"  and  all  such  delicate  epithets 
are  applied,  because  they  have  been  moderately  re- 
warded for  the  great  labor  performed  and  risks  in- 
curred. 

Much  has  been  said  about  the  monopoly  of  the 
article  of  salt.  Does  not  every  one  know  that  neither 
man  nor  beast  can  thrive  without  this  important  arti- 
cle, and  yet  what  are  our  planters,  with  their  thou- 
sands of  negroes,  who  are  living  on  the  margin  of 


Miscellaneous  Correspondence.  371 

salt  beds,  doing,  but  abusing  the  merchants  for  charg- 
ing a  profit  of  two  shillings  per  sack  on  this  indis- 
pensable article  ?  Why  do  they  not  employ  their 
negroes  in  its  manufacture  ?  Do  they  not  know  that 
there  are  not  five  thousand  sacks  of  salt  in  the  City 
of  Charleston  when  there  will  be  a  demand  for  one 
hundred  thousand  sacks  ? 

One  of  our  merchants  recently  purchased  a  cargo 
of  salt  in  New  Orleans,  and  had  it  brought  one  thou- 
sand five  hundred  miles  by  steamboat  and  rail.  He 
was  grossly  insulted  for  presuming  to  ask  a  profit  of 
five  per  cent,  notwithstanding  he  had  incurred  the 
risk  of  losing  three  dollars  per  sack  in  the  event  of 
the  blockade  being  raised.  I  was  amazed  a  few  days 
since  to  see  a  communication  published,  which  eman- 
ated from  a  committee  of  the  leading  men  of  Charles- 
ton. I  feel  quite  sure  that  no  harm,  injury  or  injustice 
was  intended,  and  yet  the  communication  was  full  of 
the  agrarian  spirit,  and  has  done  incalculable  mischief 
throughout  the  country.  The  Charleston  merchants 
who  feel  it  to  be  their  duty  to  keep  up  their  supplies, 
are  now  paying  in  New  Orleans  and  the  West,  ten  to 
twelve  cents  for  brown  sugar,  twenty  to  twenty-two 
cents  for  crushed  and  loaf,  forty  cents  for  coffee  and 
candles,  twenty-five  cents  for  bacon  and  lard,  thirty 
cents  for  spices  and  soda,  twenty  cents  for  bagging 
and  rope,  and  all  other  articles  in  proportion.  When 
they  have  paid  two  to  four  cents  per  pound  for  trans- 
portation and  other  expenses,  prices  must  necessarily 
be  very  high  in  this  market.  From  the  spirit  mani- 
fested recently,  some  of  our  merchants  do  not  feel 


372  Miscellaneous  Correspondence. 

that  they  would  be  secure  in  bringing  goods  here  for 
sale.  It  does  seem  that  the  people  of  Charleston, 
and  of  the  Confederate  States,  will  never  realize  that 
we  are  actually  engaged  in  a  destructive  war,  not  in 
a  war  of  one,  two  or  three  years,  but  in  a  war  equal  in 
magnitude  to  that  of  the  old  "  Revolution."  I  take 
it  for  granted,  if  the  "mother  country"  could  engage 
in  a  "  seven  years"  war  to  coerce  a  few  unprofitable 
colonies,  the  United  States  Government  will  not  do 
less  to  subjugate  fifteen  full  grown  States,  especially 
as  without  this  portion  of  her  dominion  she  is  doomed 
to  ruin  and  insolvency. 

When  our  people  fully  understand  the  condition  of 
the  country,  and  learn  that  the  stocks  of  merchandise 
in  the  Confederate  States  are  nearly  exhausted,  and 
that  fresh  supplies  can  only  be  obtained  at  immense 
risk  and  cost — I  say  when  they  learn  these  facts,  it  is 
barely  possible  that  some  of  them  will  find  more  pro- 
fitable employment  than  they  have  at  present,  for 
they  seem  to  do  nothing  under  the  sun  but  watch 
other  people's  business.  If  they  ever  had  any  of 
their  own  it  is  now  entirely  neglected.  And  those 
citizens  who  are  heaping  anathemas  on  the  heads  of 
"  monopolizing  shopkeepers,"  will  do  well  to  under- 
stand that  abusing  them  will  not  cure  the  evil.  Let 
them  try  their  hand  at  merchandise,  and  if  they  can 
succeed  in  furnishing  goods  at  prices  satisfactory  to 
the  buyers,  they  will  be  entitled  to  the  gratitude  of 
the  whole  country ;  and  when  they  die,  should  have 
written  on  their  tomb-stones  in  golden  letters — Mar- 
tyrs. 


Miscellaneous  Correspondence.  373 

In  a  short  time  we  will,  doubtless,  learn  that  too 
much  confidence  has  been  placed  in  King  Cotton,  the 
British  Lion  and  Napoleon  to  open  our  ports,  and  to 
give  us  cheap  goods.  Let  us  show  the  people  of  the 
North  and  of  the  balance  of  the  world,  that  we  can 
both  live  and  prosper  and  not  sell  a  bale  of  cotton. 
With  our  climate,  soil  and  innumerable  resources, 
why  should  we  not  be  the  most  independent  people 
on  the  globe  ?  But,  fault-finding  will  not  bring  goods 
at  low  prices  to  our  doors.  We  must  learn  to  do 
without  such  articles  as  cannot  be  made  at  home. 
Let  our  people  profit  by  the  severe  ordeal  through 
which  they  are  now  passing,  and  never  again  be  as  de- 
pendent on  any  nation  as  they  have  been  on  the  North 
and  Europe.  If  we  desire  the  name  of  freemen,  we 
must  be  willing,  for  the  present,  to  submit  to  great 
hardships  and  privations,  relying  on  our  God,  and  the 
means  He  has  placed  in  our  hands  for  protection, 
support  and  defence.  Sitting  down  with  our  hands 
folded,  calculating  through  envy's  green-eyed  magni- 
fying glasses  the  enormous  profits  a  few  "  monopo- 
lists "  are  said  to  be  making,  will  neither  render  us 
happy,  fill  our  own  coffers,  feed  our  children,  nor 
supply  the  wants  of  the  soldiers  and  their  families. 
Such  a  course  is  not  manly — it  is  not  patriotic ;  it  is 
mean  and  contemptible,  and  will  never  "put  down 
monopolies." 

G.  W.  W. 
Charleston,  8.  C,  1861. 


COMMERCIAL,   FINANCIAL,   AND  AGRICULTU- 
RAL CONVENTION,  AT  MACON,  GA. 


Mr.  Editor  :  As  many  of  the  subscribers  to  the 
"  Advocate  "  cannot  afford  in  these  war  times  to  take 
more  than  one  paper,  they  expect  you  and  your  cor- 
respondents to  furnish  them  with  the  commercial, 
financial  and  agricultural  news  of  the  day. 

Some  four  hundred  delegates,  representing  nearly 
every  interest  in  the  Confederate  States,  assembled  in 
Macon,  on  the  14th  inst,  to  talk  over  the  affairs  of  the 
nation,  and  to  counsel  together  as  brothers  engaged 
in  the  one  great  cause  of  advancing  the  common  inter- 
ests of  our  people.  The  Convention  was  regarded  as 
a  perfect  success.  There  were  very  few  buncombe 
speeches  made  ;  the  delegates  were  mainly  working 
men,  as  will  be  seen  by  the  amount  of  business  dis- 
posed of  in  two  and  a  half  days.  Colonel  O.  A.  An- 
drews, of  Charleston,  was  elected  President,  and  dis- 
charged his  arduous  duties  to  the  satisfaction  of  all. 
The  Cotton  Loan  and  Sequestration  Act  were  the 
most  important  questions  before  the  Convention. 

Many  were  of  the  opinion  that  both  the  interests 
of  the  Government  and  the  planter  would  be  greatly 
promoted  by  advancing  in  Treasury  notes  five  cents 
per  pound  on  the  four  million  bales  of  cotton,  now 
nearly  ready  for  market.  Others  believed  such  a 
course  to  be  unconstitutional  and  would  lead  to  great 


Miscellaneous  Correspondence.  375 

fraud  and  injury  by  cripling  the  resources  of  the 
Government.  The  following  resolution  was  finally 
adopted : 

Resolved,  That,  in  the  opinion  of  this  Convention,  the  proposed  issue 
of  Treasuary  notes  to  be  made  by  the  Government,  and  the  issue  of  Bank 
notes  in  the  ordinary  course  of  trade,  and  under  the  resolution  of  the 
Banks  to  make  advances  to  planters,  who  shall  subscribe  a  portion  of  their 
crops  in  aid  of  the  Government,  will  together  furnish  an  adequate  currency 
for  the  country,  and  will  obviate  the  necessity  for  any  intervention  of  the 
Government,  and  this  Convention  hereby  call  upon  the  Banks  of  the  Con- 
federate States  to  come  forward  and  advance  within  the  limits  of  prudence 
to  all  our  citizens  and  on  all  descriptions  of  produce. 

I  have  no  doubt  but  that  the  Banks  will  make  lib- 
eral advances  on  cotton  and  other  produce,  thus  fur- 
nishing the  planters  with  ample  means  to  buy  the 
necessaries  of  life.  Luxuries,  of  course,  during  the 
continuance  of  the  war,  will  be  dispensed  with.  A 
circulation  of  Bank  notes  of  one  hundred  million  of 
dollars,  based  on  cotton  at  five  cents  per  pound,  when 
our  ports  are  open,  will  be  equal  to  that  amount  of 
coin  ;  and  until  the  ports  are  open,  the  Banks  will 
not  be  required  to  redeem  their  issues  in  gold  or 
silver. 

A  resolution  was  passed  authorizing  the  shipment 
of  cotton  to  foreign  ports  in  vessels  that  had  run  the 
blockade.  On  the  strength  of  this  resolution,  the 
steamer  Bermuda  is  now  loading  with  cotton,  and 
will  doubtless  sail  before  this  communication  is  pub- 
lished. A  resolution  was  also  passed  recommending 
the  Congress  of  the  Confederate  States  to  suspend 
the  duties  on  imports,  and  that  the  ports  of  the  Con- 


376  Miscellaneous  Correspondence. 

federate  States  be  thrown  open  and  be  made  free  to 
all  nations  who  maintain  peace  with  us.  After  an 
exciting  debate,  the  following  question  of  modifying 
the  Sequestration  Act  was  passed  : 

Whereas,  by  the  laws  of  nations  debts  due  to  alien  enemies  are  suspended 
and  bear  no  interest  during  the  continuance  of  war  : 

Resolved,  therefore,  That  in  the  opinion  of  this  Convention,  the 
Sequestration  Act  adopted  by  the  Confederate  Congress  at  its  recent  session, 
should  not  require  the  payment  of  debts  due  by  our  citizens  to  alien  ene 
mies  during  the  existence  of  the  war  5  but  that  it  should  require  only  the 
evidence  of  the  indebtedness  to  be  returned,  and  placed  upon  record  by  the 
receiver,  without  security  demanded  and  taken  for  the  ultimate  payment 
of  the  same. 

That  in  cases  wherein  the  debtor  to  an  alien  enemy  is  also  a  claimant  of 
indemnity  for  damage  sustained  by  the  act  or  acts  of  the  Government  of 
the  United  States,  or  of  the  people  thereof,  the  said  claim  shall  be  allowed 
as  an  offset,  and  the  balance  only  shall  be  the  subject  of  payment. 

That  we  respectfully  recommend  to  the  Confederate  Congress  such  alter- 
ations in,  or  additions  to,  the  Sequestration  Act,  as  may  be  necessary  to 
authorize  the  Confederate  Courts  to  enquire  into  the  "  bona  fide  "  of  every 
transaction  of  our  own  citizens  with  alien  enemies  between  the  21st  May, 
1 861,  and  the  date  of  the  passage  of  that  Act,  and  to  protect  from  the 
operations  of  the  Act  those  engaged  in  such  transactions,  whose  dealings 
with  the  enemy  were  of  manifest  benefit  to  the  people  or  the  Government 
of  the  Confederate  States,  or  free  from  taint  of  disloyalty. 

That  the  Government  of  the  Confederate  States  having  assumed  the 
place  of  the  alien  creditor  of  the  Confederate  debtor,  should  stand  on  the 
same  footing  with  all  other  creditors. 

That  the  Convention  further  recommend  to  the  Congress  of  the  Con- 
federate States  such  modifications  of  the  Sequestration  Act  as  maybe  requi- 
site to  exempt  from  its  operation  the  property  of  persons  resident  in  the 
States  with  which  we  are  at  war,  who  are  laboring  under  the  disabilities  of 
coverture  or  infancy,  and  consequently  unable,  though  desiring  it,  to  change 
their  domicil,  and  who  are  not  actually  enemies  to  the  South. 

That  the  property  of  said  alien  enemies  who  have  sons  in  the  army  of 
the  Confederate  States  shall  be  sequestrated  for  the  benefit  of  such  sons  as 
may  serve  as  soldiers  in  our  armies. 


Miscellancojis  Correspondence.  377 

Unless  there  is  an  important  modification  of  the 
Sequestration  Act,  great  distress  and  ruin  will  be 
brought  on  thousands  of  our  people.  There  is  little 
doubt,  however,  but  that  the  Government  at  Rich- 
mond will  look  carefully  into  the  Act,  and  make  such 
alterations  as  are  just  and  equitable.  No  one  can 
believe  that  our  young  government  ever  intended  to 
pass  a  law  that  would  prove  oppressive  to  her  people. 
Our  merchants  are  in  favor  of  withholding  payments 
to  alien  enemies,  and  at  the  proper  time  to  pay  over 
as  far  as  they  are  able  the  same  to  the  Government ; 
but  they  do  not  feel  it  would  be  just  to  home  credi- 
tors to  give  a  preference  to  Northern  claims.  Many 
of  the  country  merchants  were  in  the  habit  of  divid- 
ing their  trade  between  the  North  and  the  South.  A 
firm  may  owe  fifty  thousand  dollars,  (say  one-half  in 
New  York  and  the  balance  in  Southern  cities;)  and 
when  our  unfortunate  troubles  began,  their  means 
were  ample  to  pay  all  demands,  but  now  their  collec- 
tions have  ceased ;  they  with  those  who  owe  them, 
have  left  their  homes  and  gone  forth  to  fight  the  bat- 
tles of  our  country.  If  the  war  is  to  be  protracted, 
not  fifty  cents  on  the  dollar  due  them  will  be  collected. 
As  the  Sequestration  law  now  stands,  they  are  liable 
to  be  sued  at  once  in  the  Confederate  courts,  judg- 
ment rendered,  and  their  property  sold,  if  they  are 
not  able  to  give  security.  Such  a  course  would  ruin 
one-half  of  our  merchants,  and  leave  millions  of  home 
debts  unpaid. 

The  Convention  adjourned  at  half  past  ten  o'clock 
48 


378  Miscellaneous  Correspondence. 

on  Wednesday  night,  to  meet  on  the  first  Monday  in 
May,  in  the  city  of  Montgomery,  Alabama. 

Colonel  Andrews,  in  responding  to  the  resolution  of 
thanks  to  the  President  and  other  officers  of  the  Con- 
vention, said  : 

"  The  Convention  would  adjourn  to  meet  again  in  Alabama.  There  is 
a  beautiful  legend  of  our  fair  sister  State,  which  tells  us  that  the  early 
pioneers  therein  were  so  attracted  with  her  charms  that  they  forgot  their 
distresses,  when  reaching  her  pleasant  waters  and  seating  themselves  on  the 
verdant  banks  thereof,  exclaimed  :  '  Alabama  ' — Here  we  rest ! 

"  May  time  prove  that  there  was  a  prophetic  significance  in  the  place 
designated,  and  to  those  of  us  who  may  be  permitted  to  gather  at  the  next 
meeting,  may  the  grateful  sound  come  up  from  peaceful  dwellers  under 
every  •  vine  and  fig  tree,'  that  our  country  is  delivered  !  Alabama  !  Ala- 
bama ! 

"  Commending  you  to  the  benedictive  influences  of  that  Gracious  Provi- 
dence, in  dependence  on  whom  our  work  was  begun,  is  continued,  and 
will,  we  trust,  be  ended,  I  bid  you,  gentlemen,  respectfully,  warmly,  and 
affectionately,  farewell." 

As  a  general  thing,  commercial  and  agricultural 
conventions  are  nothing  more  nor  less  than  political 
traps ;  but,  so  far  as  I  could  see,  the  Macon  Conven- 
tion was  entirely  free  from  politics,  or  the  selfish  aims 
of  any  particular  class  of  our  fellow-citizens.  It  was 
composed  of  some  of  the  first  men  of  the  South, 
whose  great  minds  seem  devoted  to  the  advancement 
of  the  interests  of  our  young  Republic  and  her  loyal 
citizens.  Such  meetings  are  calculated  to  do  much 
in  cultivating  a  harmonious  and  social  feeling  among 
the  classes  representing  the  varied  interests  in  the 
Confederate  States. 

G.  W.  W. 

Macon,  Ga.,  October  17th,  1861. 


THE  MISSIONARY  WORK  IN  SOUTH  CAROLINA. 


I  must  confess  it  startles  me  to  hear  Christian  min- 
isters talking  about  abandoning  the  missionary  work 
in  the  South  Carolina  Conference — even  for  a  twelve- 
month. If  the  pious  dead  could  be  disturbed,  would 
not  the  sainted  Capers,  Honour  and  other  pioneer 
missionaries,  grieve  if  the  religious  instruction  of 
the  blacks  was  given  up  ?  Is  it  possible  that  such 
good  and  true  men  as  H.  A.  C.  W.  can  even  "  half- 
way "  recommend  to  his  brethren  of  the  old  Banner 
Conference  to  "suspend  the  missions  for  one  year?" 
Would  not  such  a  course  have  a  prejudicial  influence 
upon  the  missions  throughout  the  entire  South  ? 
What  would  become  of  the  missionaries,  their  wives 
and  little  ones  during  the  suspension  ?  How  are 
they  to  be  fed  and  clothed. 

We  believe  that  the  Holy  Scriptures  fully  recog- 
nize the  relation  of  master  and  servant,  and  we  are 
willing  to  sustain  the  relation  at  any  cost.  Is  it  not, 
then,  clearly  our  duty  to  see  that  the  slaves  are  sup- 
plied with  religious  teachers  ?  True,  the  people  of 
the  North  stole  the  negroes  from  their  native  homes 
and  put  them  in  their  present  relation,  but  their  soil 
and  climate  proved  unsuited  to  the  African  race.  In 
plain  English,  slavery  could  not  be  made  profitable 
at  the  North,  and  they  relieved  their  consciences  by 
transferring  the  negro,  for  a  valuable  consideration, 
to  the  sunny  South.     We  became  their  owners  and 


380  Miscellaneous  Correspondence. 

guardians ;  and  with  the  transfer  of  property,  passed 
the  duty  to  look  after  their  spiritual  as  well  as  their 
temporal  wants. 

These  are  indeed  trying  times — money  is  scarce, 
the  price  of  cotton  low,  and  provisions  high,  and  our 
country  is  engaged  in  a  bloody  war.  If  I  do  not 
greatly  mistake  the  character  of  Carolina  Planters, 
they  will,  as  heretofore,  come  up  liberally  to  the  sup- 
port of  the  Missionaries  who  labor  on  their  planta- 
tions. Charles  Cotesworth  Pinckney,  an  honored 
name  in  Carolina,  was  one  of  the  early  patrons  of  the 
missions  to  the  blacks.  He  and  others  saw  that  the 
religious  instruction  administered  by  faithful  men, 
was  of  more  advantage  to  their  servants  than  a  troop 
of  patrol.  The  South  Carolina  Conference  will  cer- 
tainly not  let  the  work  of  forty  years,  in  the  malaria 
swamps,  which  has  been  so  signally  owned  and  blessed 
of  God  be  given  over  to  Satan  ?  Never,  no  never ! 
Then  let  us  devise  some  means  to  avert  this  dreadful 
calamity. 

There  is  required  for  the  missions  in  this  Confer- 
ence at  least  twenty  thousand  dollars.  I  feel  quite 
sure  the  planters  will  contribute  one  half  that  sum. 
Are  there  not  twenty  Methodists  who  will  give  each 
five  hundred  dollars  to  so  good  a  cause  ?  If  they 
have  not  the  money,  and  do  not  wish  to  sell  their 
cotton  at  this  time,  let  them  send  it  to  their  factors  in 
Charleston  with  instructions  to  pay  over  the  proceeds 
to  the  Missionary  Treasury,  and  I  will  see  that  they 
have  a  liberal  advance  on  it ;  and  the  cotton  shall  be 
insured  and  held  until  it  is  ordered  to  be  sold.     Those 


Miscellaneous  Correspondence.  381 

who  cannot  spare  twenty  bales  let  them  send  ten, 
five,  or  even  one — the  widow's  mite,  in  so  holy  a 
cause,  will  not  be  refused. 

Let  there  be,  without  delay,  an  earnest  appeal  made 
in  behalf  of  the  missions  in  every  church  in  the 
bounds  of  the  South  Carolina  Conference.  Flour, 
rice,  and  provisions  of  any  kind;  will  be  acceptable. 
The  clergy  have  a  right  to  expect  a  cordial  co-opera- 
tion of  the  laity  in  this  important  work — a  work  of 
which 

"  Millions  of  souls  shall  feel  the  power, 
And  bear  it  down  to  millions  more." 


G.  W.  W. 


Charleston,  S.  C,  October  29th,  1861. 


WHERE  ARE  WE  DRIFTING! 


A  few  weeks  since,  when  Senator  Phelan,  of  Mis- 
sissippi, introduced  a  bill  in  the  Confederate  Congress 
to  seize  and  appropriate  all  of  the  cotton  in  the  Con- 
federate States  for  the  use  of  the  Government,  I  did 
not  suppose  such  a  wild,  chimerical  and  unjust  scheme 
would  receive  half  a  dozen  votes.  I  understand, 
however,  that  there  is  a  strong  probability  that  Mr. 
Phelan's  bill  will  become  the  law  of  the  land,  and 
then  when  an  attempt  is  made  to  put  it  in  force,  you 
may  look  out  for  another  revolution.  The  citizens  of 
the   cotton-growing  States  are  willing  to  make  any 


382  Miscellaneous  Correspondence. 

just  sacrifice  for  the  benefit  and  security  of  their 
Government,  but  they  would  not  quietly  submit  to  an 
act  so  unjust  and  unequal  in  its  operations  as  the 
seizure  of  cotton  would  be. 

How  is  it  that  the  Senator  selects  one  article  to 
pay  the  expenses  of  the  war?  and  proposes  that  upon 
the  cotton  planters  only  shall  fall  the  burdens  and 
seizures  ?  It  is  true  their  shoulders  are  broad,  and 
they  seem  to  be  the  subjects  not  only  of  Confederate, 
but  State  legislation.  They  are  restricted  to  so  many 
square  feet  of  ground  on  which  they  shall  raise  King 
Cotton,  and  then  that  small  quantity  is  to  be  taken 
from  them.  Where  is  the  justice  and  equity  of  such 
a  measure  ?  and  what  would  be  the  effect  upon  the 
public  credit?  Our  worthy  Secretary  of  the  Treasury 
and  his  assistants  are  racking  their  brains  to  sustain 
the  credit  of  the  Government.  Suppose  three  or  four 
hundred  millions  of  bonds  should  be  issued  for  cot- 
ton— an  article  as  immovable  and  useless  to  the 
Government  while  the  war  lasts  as  the  rocks  in  the 
mountains — might  not  such  a  financial  blunder  ruin 
the  country  ?  Would  cotton  be  any  safer  in  the  hands 
of  the  Government  and  Government  agent  than  in  the 
possession  of  the  planter  ?  Would  it  not  cost  the 
Government  thirty  to  fifty  million  dollars  per  annum 
for  interest,  insurance  and  storage  ?  Experience  has 
taught  us  that  when  Government  turns  merchant,  a 
wide  door  is  opened  for  wholesale  plunder  and  swind- 
ling. If  an  exigency  in  our  affairs  should  arise,  which 
would  render  the  seizure  of  property  necessary,  let 
the    Government    appropriate    not    only    cotton,    but 


Miscellaneous  Correspondence.  383 

tobacco,  sugar,  rice,  naval  stores,  stocks,  land  and  every 
species  of  property.  Such  a  procedure  would  fall 
equally  upon  all  classes ;  but  to  select  cotton  alone, 
would  sacrifice  a  few  for  the  supposed  benefit  of  the 
many. 

I  trust,  Messrs.  Editors,  you  will  see  the  inequality 
and  injustice  of  the  bill  now  before  Congress,  and 
call  public  attention  to  the  dangers  that  threaten  us. 

G.  W.  W. 

Charleston,  February  14,  1863. 


LETTER  FROM  CHARLES  TON. 


Mr.  Editor  :  The  question  is  often  asked,  "  What 
has  become  of  the  Southern  Christian  Advocate  ?" 
Some  say  it  expired  with  the  Confederacy ;  others 
say  it  is  published  in  Macon,  Georgia.  Can't  you 
make  an  arrangement  to  deliver  it  by  Express  to 
your  subscribers,  until  "  Uncle  Sam  "  establishes  his 
mail  route  ?     [Certainly. — Ed.] 

We  wish  to  know  what  you  are  doing  in  Georgia. 
The  Charleston  refugees,  after  years  of  wandering 
and  suffering  are  returning  to  their  homes.  Alas ! 
What  changes  have  taken  place  in  those  homes ! 
Loved  ones  who  went  forth  to  battle  at  their  country's 
call,  will  return  no  more.  The  houses  from  Calhoun 
street  to  the  Battery,  were  terribly  shattered  by  shot 
and  shell,  and  have  been  robbed  from  cellar  to  garret. 
Oh,  what  a  terrible  thing  is  war ! 


384  Miscellaneous  Correspondence. 

There  are  evident  signs  of  improvement  in  business. 
The  stores  in  King  and  Meeting  streets  are  rented 
at  prices  current  before  the  war,  and  those  on  Hayne 
and  East  Bay  streets  are  filling  up.  Geo.  W.  Wil- 
liams &  Co.  have  resumed  business  again  at  Nos.  1 
and  3  Hayne  street,  and  are  ready  to  serve  their 
old  friends.  We  have  two  newspapers  published  in 
Charleston,  the  Courier  and  the  Daily  News.  The 
latter  is  issued  from  your  old  Advocate  building.  It 
is  said  to  be  a  sprig  of  the  Mercury.  The  Rhetts 
have  not  returned;  I  suppose  Charleston  politics 
under  the  new  regimen  don't  suit  them.  We  shall 
have  no  more  use  for  nullification  or  secession,  at 
least  in  our  day  and  generation. 

The  orthodox  preachers  all  left  when  the  city  was 
evacuated,  and  we  were  like  "  sheep  without  a  shep- 
ard."  Rev.  Mr.  Lewis  was  sent  to  Charleston  by  the 
Methodist  Missionary  Society.  Although  a  live  New 
England  Yankee,  and  an  avowed  abolitionist,  to  his 
credit  be  it  said,  he  never  carried  politics  into  the 
pulpit.  Bethel  Church  was  assigned  to  the  whites, 
Trinity,  Spring  Street  and  Old  Bethel  were  taken  pos- 
session of  by  the  colored  brethren,  and  are  occupied 
by  them  now.  Rev.  Mr.  Raysor,  P.  E.  of  this  Dis- 
trict, visited  Charleston  recently,  and  Mr.  Lewis 
turned  Bethel  Church  over  to  him.  Rev.  F.  A.  Mood, 
who  has  returned  from  Europe,  occupies  Bethel. 
Rev.  Mr.  Meynardie  is  expected  soon. 

Mr.  Lewis  has  labored  with  zeal  and  energy,  but 
has  not  met  with  much  success,  either  among  the 
whites  or  blacks.     The  African  M.  E.  Church  held  a 


Miscellaneous  Correspondence.  385 

"  Conference  "  in  Charleston,  and  made  quite  a  parade 
of  their  "bishops,  deacons  and  elders."  Sambo,  like 
the  white  man,  is  fond  of  office,  and  the  temptation 
of  being  made  a  live  bishop,  caused  hundreds  and 
thousands  to  join  the  African  Methodist  Church. 
The  whites  and  the  blacks  will  probably  never  wor- 
ship together  again  in  Charleston,  I  am  not  sure  but 
that  Methodism  will  be  improved  by  the  separation. 
The  colored  charges  have  been  a  heavy  tax  upon  the 
time  and  labors  of  the  white  pastors ;  and  although 
it  has  been  one  of  the  decided  peculiarities  of  Charles- 
ton Methodism  that  it  has  paid  special  attention  to 
the  religious  welfare  of  this  class  of  the  population, 
yet  it  has  been  at  the  cost  of  some  standing  and  influ- 
ence in  the  community. 

The  Church  North  has  a  fine  opportunity  of  uniting 
our  Church  with  theirs,  if  they  would  only  manifest 
a  Christian  spirit,  and  exercise  charity ;  but  what  I 
saw  in  my  recent  visit  North  convinced  me  that  our 
bishops  and  preachers  will  not  be  recognized  unless 
they  resign  their  office,  repent  of  their  misdeeds,  and 
join  the  M.  E.  Church  on  probation !  As  the  great 
question  (slavery)  which  separated  the  Church  in 
1844  is  removed,  I  see  no  good  reason  why  the 
Churches  should  not  reunite,  but  not  on  the  terms 
offered  by  the  Church  North.  President  Johnson  par- 
dons us  sinners,  and  receives  us  back  as  equals ;  why 
can't  the  great  Methodist  Church  North  do  the  same  ? 

Our  old  friend  H.  A.  C.  Walker  made  us  a  visit 
recently.  He  is  now  a  "  loyal  citizen."  Nearly  all 
of  the  South  Carolina  preachers  have  taken  the  oath 
49 


386  Miscellaneous  Correspondence. 

of  allegiance,  and  have  transferred  their  prayers  from 
Jeff.  Davis  to  Andy  Johnson.  I  think  our  new  Presi- 
dent is  disposed  to  do  all  in  his  power  for  the  South. 
There  is  a  terrible  pressure  upon  him.  Johnson's 
prime  minister,  (Stanton,)  wants  to  keep  us  under  mili- 
tary rule,  until  the  contrabands  are  allowed  to  vote. 
Negro  suffrage  is  the  question  at  the  North,  especially 
among  the  secessionists  of  New  England.  The  Sec- 
retary of  War  has  given  orders  that  no  more  rations 
be  issued  to  the  whites ;  the  blacks  are  to  be  fed  as 
usual.  Why  this  distinction  ?  I  am  sure  the  poor 
whites  in  Charleston  need  bread  as  much  as  the  col- 
ored population.  There  is  much  suffering,  and  this 
suffering  extends  to  a  class  of  people  who,  a  few  years 
ago,  were  surrounded  by  comforts  and  luxuries. 
Such  is  life,  and  such  the  effect  of  war  !  Let  us  for 
the  future  steer  clear  of  its  ravages  and  horrors ! 

G.  W.  W. 
Charleston,  S.  C,  1865. 


REPORT  OF  THE  DISTRIBUTING  COMMITTEE. 


No.  i  Hayne  Street,  1 

Charleston,  S.  C,  May  27th,  1865.      / 
Col.  Wm.  Gurney,  Commanding  Post : 

Colonel,  I  have  the  honor  to  report  to  you  that  the 
provisions  which  were  in  my  charge,  as  Chairman  of 
the  City  Subsistence  Committee,  on  the  arrival  of  the 
Union  forces  in  Charleston,  and  which  were  taken 
possession  of  by  the  United  States  military  authori- 
ties, and  subsequently  turned  over  to  a  Committee  of 
citizens,  consisting  of  Hon.  William  Aiken,  Geo.  W. 
Williams,  Dr.  A.  G.  Mackey,  C.  Amme,  and  W.  H. 
Gilliland,  have  been  issued  in  accordance  with  the 
instruction  from  Headquarters. 

The  Committee  received  from 
West  Point  Mills,  whole,  middling  and 

small  rice,         -  1,487,765  lbs. 

From  Chisolm's  Mills,  whole,  middling 

and  small  rice,  _..'•_  95,000    " 

From  East  Point  Mills,  whole,  middling 

and  small  rice,  -  172,027    " 

From  Bennett's  Mills,  whole,  middling 

and  small  rice.  -  .  108,940    " 


Total,         -  1,863,732  lbs. 

The  Committee  received  from  the  Confederate  com- 
missary stores,  six  thousand  one  hundred  bushels  of 
corn,  which  was  ground  into  meal  and  grist  and  distri- 


388  Miscellaneous  Correspondence. 

buted  to  the  poor.    There  was  also  issued  several  thou- 
sand bushels  of  salt  found  in  the   State  commissary. 

This  timely  supply  of  provisions  has  given  suste- 
nance to  more  than  twenty  thousand  needy  people 
for  one  hundred  days,  and  relieved  much  suffering  in 
Charleston  and  its  vicinity.  There  are  a  number  of 
old  and  infirm  white  and  colored  citizens  who  have 
relied  mainly  on  this  charity  for  support.  Without 
continued  assistance  from  the  Government,  this  class 
of  the  community  must  suffer  for  bread. 

I  have  the  honor  to  be  your  obedient  servant, 
GEO.  W.  WILLIAMS, 
Member  Distributing  Committee. 

REPORT  OF  THE   SUBSISTENCE  COMMITTEE,  TO  CITY  COUN- 
CIL   OF    CHARLESTON,   1 865. 

The  Subsistence  Committee,  which  was  appointed 
by  Council  in  1862,  respectfully  report  that  their 
operations  were  brought  to  a  close  by  the  fall  of 
Charleston  and  the  arrival  of  the  United  States  mili- 
tary authorities  in  February  last. 

The  Committee  had  at  that  time,  in  West  Point 
and  other  mills,  one  hundred  and  fifty  thousand  dol- 
lars worth  of  rice  and  grist,  all  of  which  were  taken 
possession  of  by  the  military  authorities,  under  the 
following  orders: 

Headquarters  United  States  Forces,   T 
Charleston,  S.  C,  February  20,   1865.       J 
\_General  Orders,  No.  3.] 

I.  All  rice  heretofore  in  the  keeping  of  the  City 
Government  will  at  once  be  taken  possession  of  by 
the  United  States  military  authorities. 


Miscellaneous  Correspondence.  389 

II.  Capt.  Ed.  R.  Fowler,  21st  Regt.  U.  S.  C.  T.,  A. 
C.  S.,  will  immediately  take  charge  of  the  rice.  He 
will  report  in  person  to  these  headquarters  for  instruc- 
tions. 

III.  Hon.  William  Aiken,  Geo.  W.  Williams,  Esq., 
Dr.  George  Mackey  and  Mr.  C.  Amme,  are  appointed 
a  Committee  of  Citizens,  who  will  distribute  this  rice 
to  the  poor  of  the  city. 

By  order  of  Colonel  A.  G.  Bennett,  Commanding. 
(Signed.)  HENRY  H.  JENKS, 

Capt.  52  Pa.  Vols.,  A.  A.  A.  G. 
(Official.)     H.  A.  Batterson, 

2d  Lieut.  127  N.  Y.  V.,  A.  A.  A.  G. 
A  special  appeal  was  made  by  the  Chairman  of  the 
Subsistence  Committee  to  Col.  A.  G.  Bennett,  Com- 
mandant of  the  City.  By  his  orders  the  supplies  were 
turned  over  to  Hon.  Wm.  Aiken,  Geo.  W.  Williams, 
Dr.  A.  G.  Mackey,  and  C.  Amme,  for  gratuitous  dis- 
tribution to  the  poor  of  Charleston. 

The  timely  provision  of  the  City  Council,  in  pro- 
curing food  during  the  entire  siege  of  Charleston,  and 
at  a  time  of  great  scarcity  among  our  citizens,  pre- 
vented much  suffering  among  all  classes. 

But  for  the  loss  of  one  hundred  tierces  of  rice  in 
Savannah,  and  the  large  amount  taken  possession  of 
by  the  military  authorities,  the  Subsistence  Committee 
would  have  returned  in  full  the  advance  made  by  the 
City  Council,  and  paid  a  handsome  sum  into  the 
Treasury.  Respectfully  submitted. 

GEO.  W.  WILLIAMS, 
Chairman  Subsistence  Committee. 


LETTER  FROM  BISHOP  ANDREW. 


A  letter  from  the  venerable  Bishop  Andrew,  though 
addressed  to  a  little  boy,  will  yet  be  read  with  satis- 
faction by  all  who  know  and  honor  that  eminent 
divine.  Though  subduing  his  tone  to  meet  the  juve- 
nile apprehension  of  the  boy,  it  will  yet  be  seen  that 
it  is  replete  with  fatherly  counsel  and  the  best  advice, 
and  may  be  read  profitably  by  the  sons  of  other 
fathers,  as  it  has  been,  I  believe,  by  mine. 

G.  W.  W. 


Mr.  Editor: — The  enclosed  letter  from  our  venerable 
Bishop  Andrew  to  his  little  Charleston  friend,  is  so 
full  of  fatherly  counsel  and  advice,  I  send  it  to  the 
"  Visitor"  for  the  benefit  of  the  little  readers  of  that 
interesting  paper. 

Geo.  W.  Williams. 
Charleston,  February  12,  1867. 


My  Dear  Little  Friend  : — A  few  days  since  the 
mail  brought  me  a  letter  which  was  postmarked 
Charleston,  and  I  supposed  it  must  be  from  your 
father;  but  on  opening  it,  and  breaking  into  and 
going  through  two  or  three  envelopes,  I  found  snugly 
hid  away  in  one  or  two  envelopes  a  printed  letter  from 
my  little  friend   Geo.  W.  Williams,  Jr.     I  need  not 


Miscellaneous  Correspondence.  391 

tell  yOu  how  glad  I  was  to  receive  this  assurance  of 
the  love  and  respect  you  cherish  for  your  old  friend. 
I  thank  you,  George,  for  your  letter,  and  now  I  say 
you  must  repeat  it  very  often  :  write  often  ;  it  will  do 
you  good,  by  improving  your  mind,  and  I  shall  always 
be  glad  to  receive  them. 

Well,  George,  I  had  a  cold  ride  home,  but  reached 
it  safely  and  found  all  well.  The  boys  and  girls  had 
a  fine  time  of  snow-balling  each  other,  just  like  I  used 
to  do  when  I  was  a  boy.  The  weather  has  been  very 
cold  ever  since.  O  how  sorry  it  makes  me  feel  to 
think  of  the  poor  people  in  the  large  towns  who  have 
no  comfortable  houses,  nor  warm  clothing,  nor  wood 
to  make  a  fire  for  them,  and  their  shivering  children ! 
George,  don't  you  wish  you  could  relieve  them  all  ? 
Now  what  a  happy  little  boy  you  are  to  live  in  such 
a  good  home,  have  good  warm  clothing,  and  above 
all,  such  a  good  father  and  mother,  who  love  you  and 
spare  no  pains  to  make  you  happy.  Surely  you 
ought  to  be  a  very  good  boy,  and  never  do  any  thing 
to  grieve  your  parents.  But  remember  that  for  all 
these  things  you  are  indebted  to  the  kind  providence 
of  your  Heavenly  Father,  and  you  ought  never  to 
do  any  thing  to  offend  God,  but  you  must  love  Him 
and  pray  to  Him  to  change  your  heart  and  make  you 
a  good  boy.  Never  tell  any  stories — never  say  any 
bad  words.  You  must  pray  to  God  two  or  three 
times  every  day ;  ask  God  to  bless  you,  and  bless 
and  keep  you  from  evil.  Don't  keep  company  with 
boys  that  swear  or  break  the  Sabbath,  or  are  quarrel- 
some ;  be  civil  and  obliging  to  every  body ;  love  your 


392  Miscellaneous  Correspondence. 

books,  and  be  studious  to  know  your  lessons.  I 
suppose  you  are  going  to  school :  be  sure  to  love  and 
obey  your  teacher. 

And  now,  George,  I  guess  you  will  think  I  ought 
to  quit ;  well,  so  I  think ;  and  so  I  say  good-bye. 
Yours  affectionately, 

Jas.  O.  Andrew. 
Summerfield,  January  15,  1867. 


BRAZIL. 


Mr.  Editor: — For  the  information  of  those  who  have 
the  Brazil  fever,  I  send  you  a  letter  for  publication, 
from  one  who  has  recently  returned  from  South 
America.  Mr.  B.  is  a  gentleman  of  close  observa- 
tion, and  possesses  more  than  ordinary  intelligence. 
Any  statements  made  by  him  in  reference  to  Brazil 
may  be  implicitly  relied  upon.  I  am  convinced  in 
my  own  mind  that  we  have  the  best  country  in  the 
world.  All  that  we  require  is  a  stable  Government 
and  a  working,  economical  people  to  restore  us  to 
our  former  prosperity. 

Yours  truly, 

G.  W.  W 

Charleston,  May  28,  1867. 


Miscellaneous  Correspondence.  393 

Harrodsburg,  Ky.,  May  22,  1867. 
Geo.  W.  Williams,  Esq. 

Dear  Sir  :  On  our  parting  at  Charleston  in  Jan- 
uary last,  on  my  way  to  Brazil,  I  promised  to  address 
you  on  my  return  to  the  United  States,  which  I  now 
do.  After  travelling  on  the  coast  and  land  three 
thousand  miles  in  Brazil,  I  returned  to  the  United 
States,  satisfied  that  Brazil  would  not  suit  our  people, 
all  things  considered,  notwithstanding  thousands  are 
going  there  who  are  not  informed,  and  I  think  will 
never  be  happy  or  even  comparatively  satisfied. 
Nature  has  done  much  for  Brazil.  More  beautiful 
harbors  and  scenery  the  world  cannot  afford — much 
of  the  soil  very  fertile,  but  not  more  so  than  many 
parts  of  the  United  States ;  a  fine  climate,  that  is  if 
one  is  fond  of  perpetual  summer.  Thermometer 
average  from  78  to  98 — in  short,  average  of  a  South 
Carolina  summer.  Rio  de  Janeiro  is  precisely  the 
climate  of  Havana.  Population  of  Rio  450,000.  But 
few  roads  in  the  entire  empire  that  would  admit  of 
a  wagon,  and  only  three  railroads  in  the  empire, 
one  of  which  is  eighty-five  miles,  another  one  hun- 
dred and  twenty-five  miles,  the  other  ninety  miles.  I 
regard  the  country  as  being  well  adapted  for  coffee, 
sugar  and  tobacco,  but  not  for  grain,  and  cotton  I 
regard  as  yet  an  experiment.  Rice  does  well.  I  have 
very  great  doubts  as  to  cotton  doing  well  there ;  the 
soil  is  all  right,  but  the  climate  I  doubt.  They 
have  the  wet  and  the  dry  season  there,  either  of 
which  would  ruin  a  cotton  crop  in  Carolina,  and  I 
see  no  reason  why  it  would  not  in  Brazil.  Last  year 
50 


394  Miscellaneous  Comespondence. 

in  the  most  desirable  province,  I  understood  that  it 
did  not  rain  in  six  months.  It  is  the  worst  country 
in  the  world  to  obtain  truthful  information  as  to  these 
matters.  All  the  book-writers  deceive  the  public, 
and  when  I  see  you  I  will  tell  you  the  cause,  which 
you  will  easily  understand.  There  are  no  facilities  in 
the  country,  and  worse  than  all,  the  language,  which 
is  Portuguese,  then  the  habits,  manners  and  mode  of 
living ;  and  any  man  must  be  very  vain  who  supposes 
that  a  few  Americans  can  go  to  that  natural  fine  coun- 
try and  cause  those  people  to  adopt  ours.  Not  so.  If 
you  go  there  you  must  give  up  the  English,  acquire 
the  Portuguese,  and  become  a  thorough  Brazilian 
before  you  begin  to  live  there — live  on  mandioca 
meal  for  bread,  and  a  barrel  of  imported  flour,  to 
reach  the  interior  on  the  back  of  a  pack  mule,  which 
is  a  great  curiosity,  and  bacon,  rarely  seen  in  Rio, 
fifty  cents  per  pound  in  gold,  and  of  the  many  fam- 
ilies going  there  now,  by  the  time  they  settle  in  the 
interior,  I  think  it  doubtful  whether  they  will  ever 
see  a  ham  of  bacon  or  barrel  of  flour  again.  Society 
none  whatever. 

The  coffee  plantations  were  beautiful  in  the  extreme. 
The  negroes  looked  well,  and  would  class,  in  appear- 
ance with  ours  in  the  States,  in  the  days  of  slavery, 
but  I  did  not  think  they  were  as  good  workers.  The 
price  of  slaves,  for  young  men  and  women,  likely, 
from  five  hundred  dollars  to  six  hundred  dollars. 
Much  more  has  been  said  in  this  country  about  the 
emancipation  of  slavery  in  Brazil,  than  has  been  said 
there.     If  I  could  have  consented  to  settle  in  Brazil, 


Miscellaneous  Correspondence.  395 

I  can  only  say  that  I  would  not  have  had  any  fears  on 
that  score.  But  I  could  not  consent  to  settle  there 
with  my  family,  all  things  considered.  Of  course  I 
cannot  undertake  in  this  letter  to  go  into  detail;  when 
I  see  you,  I  can  tell  you  many  things  interesting  as 
to  that  country. 

I  have  purchased  property  in  Kentucky,  and  shall 
return  to  South  Carolina  next  week,   and  hence  will 

see  you  shortly. 

Yours  truly, 

D.  L.  B. 


MISCHIEVOUS  RUMORS. 


That  there  should  be  a  necessity  for  the  following 
card  of  Mr.  Williams,  cannot  but  be  humiliating  to 
the  community.  It  is  unfortunately  one  of  the  foibles 
of  poor  human  nature  to  lend  a  willing  ear  to  gossip, 
and  in  repeating  a  rumor  to  add  a  little  on  to  it.  A 
misanthropic  Frenchman  once  remarked  that  we  are 
not  displeased  to  hear  of  the  misfortunes  of  even  our 
best  friends,  and  once  people  begin  to  talk  of  suspen- 
sions and  failures,  at  a  time  of  commercial  pressure, 
no  house  is  safe  from  the  aspersion.  It  is  useless  to 
say  that  this  is  wrong;  that  to  repeat  such  a  rumor  is 
to  be  guilty  of  slander,  and  liable  to  an  action  for 
libel ;  for  all  this  is  well  known,  and  readily  acknowl- 
edged by  every  one.  Let  our  people,  therefore,  be 
more  guarded  in  their  expressions,  and,  as  Mr.  W. 
suggests,  mind  their  own  business,  and  much  will  be 


396  Miscellaneous  Correspondence. 

gained  every  way.  Mr.  Williams,  in  our  opinion,  has 
taken  the  most  sensible  course,  in  waving  all  false 
delicacy,  and  fairly  and  squarely  bearding  his  slan- 
derers and  detractors;  and  has  thus  forever  put  an 
end  to  all  such  libellous  rumors. — Charleston  News. 

The  startling  announcement  of  the  suspension  of 
the  old  and  highly  respected  firm  of  Fraser,  Tren- 
holm  &  Co.,  of  Liverpool,  a  house  whose  reputed 
wealth  was  almost  without  limit,  very  naturally  pro- 
duced a  financial  and  commercial  panic  in  this  com- 
munity. The  day  the  announcement  was  made,  men 
congregated  on  the  streets  to  discuss  the  losses  that 
would  fall  on  the  banks,  bankers,  and  commercial 
men.  Some  one  suggested  that  the  above  firm  doubt- 
less owed  "  Geo.  W.  Williams  &  Co.  a  hundred  thou- 
sand dollars."  In  a  very  short  time  the  one  hun- 
dred thousand  was  increased  to  millions !  when  the 
truth  is,  they  owed  us  less  than  a  thousand  pounds. 
These  idle  rumors  in  a  few  days  corrected  them- 
selves so  far  as  relates  to  Charleston  ;  but  the  false 
reports  were  spread  among  our  friends  in  the  country 
to  such  an  extent  that  our  Senior  felt  it  his  duty  to 
publish  in  the  Charleston  papers  the  following  card : 

A  CARD. 

Messrs.  Editors  :  It  is  with  deep  regret  that  I  feel 
it  due  to  a  concern  that  I  have  been  a  member  of  for 
more  than  twenty-five  years,  to  refute  the  malicious 
reports  which  have  been  so  industriously  circulated  in 
the  streets  of  Charleston  for  the  past  ten  days.  I  did 
not  deem  it  necessary  to  notice  the  reports,  as  no  gen- 


Miscellaneous  Correspondence.  397 

tleman  in  Charleston  believed  that  the  house  of  Geo. 
W.  Williams  &  Co.  was  not  as  solvent  as  any  concern 
in  the  United  States.  But  for  the  fact  that  these  false 
and  malicious  reports  have  found  their  way  among  our 
friends  in  the  country  in  a  shape  calculated  to  do  us 
and  our  city  a  serious  injury,  I  would  treat  them  with 
the  contempt  which  they  deserve. 

The  house  of  Geo.  W.  Williams  &  Co.  have  ample 
means  of  their  own  with  which  to  carry  on  their  busi- 
ness; they  are  not  indebted  a  dollar  to  any  bank  in  the 
world ;  and  have  a  large  cash  balance  to  their  credit 
in  the  New  York,  Charleston  and  Liverpool  banks ; 
and,  further,  the  firm  has  not  a  note  or  acceptance 
due  or  running  to  maturity.  Neither  are  they  endors- 
ers on  a  dollar's  worth  of  domestic  exchange,  and  have 
but  one  sterling  bill  of  a  thousand  pounds  to  mature. 

Perhaps  it  might  be  comforting  intelligence  to  the 
friends  (?)  who  have  been  so  actively  engaged  in  cir- 
culating false  reports,  to  learn  that  of  the  many  mil- 
lions of  dollars  of  foreign  and  domestic  exchange  pur- 
chased by  Geo.  W.  Williams  &  Co.  during  the  past 
twenty-five  years,  they  have  never  lost  a  dollar!  If 
the  gossipers  in  Charleston  will  devote  half  the  atten- 
tion to  their  own  business  that  they  do  to  that  of 
others,  we  shall  then  hear  of  fewer  failures  and  more 
prosperity. 

I  dislike  to  appear  before  the  public  in  this  card ; 
but  duty  to  myself  and  the  firm  that  I  represent,  and 
also  to  the  city  at  large,  compels  me  to  do  so. 

Geo.  W.  Williams. 

Charleston,  June  6th,  1867. 


FROM  THE  NORTH. 


New  York,  July  25,  1867. 
I  am  in  this  great  city,  seeing  what  I  can  see.  The 
feeling  here  toward  the  people  of  the  South  is  that 
of  kindness  and  sympathy.  They  are  more  than  anx- 
ious to  have  the  old  States  back  again  into  the  Union. 
They  know  their  commercial  and  political  value  to 
the  whole  country,  and  they  are  feeling  keenly  in 
their  finances  and  trade  the  effects  of  the  disorganiza- 
tion and  anarchy  which  prevail  at  the  South.  As 
soon  as  we  are  reconstructed,  millions  of  men  and 
money  will  pour  into  our  impoverished  lands,  and  aid 
in  building  up  our  waste  cities,  and  in  cultivating  the 
fields  that  are  now  growing  up  in  thorns  and  thistles. 
New  York  comparatively  is  almost  as  dull  as  Charles- 
ton. Those  who  are  so  fortunate  as  to  have  a  few  hun- 
dred pounds  of  sterling  have  gone  to  the  Paris  show; 
others  have  deserted  their  comfortable  homes,  and 
are  "  cotting  "  at  the  seaside,  Saratoga  or  Niagara, 
leaving  the  town  in  the  possession  of  the  sharpers 
of  both  sexes.  I  have  never  seen  so  few  people  here 
from  the  South.  Alas !  Confederate  currency  don't 
pay  railroad  fare  and  hotel  bills.  The  wheels  of  com- 
merce seem  to  have  come  to  a  dead  lock  in  this  great 
metropolis.  This  state  of  things  cannot  last  much 
longer  without  ruining  two-thirds  of  the  merchants. 
There  have  already  been  several  failures  among  the 
dry   goods'    houses    in    the    jobbing    and   importing 


Miscellaneous  Correspondence.  399 

trade,  and  the  end  is  not  yet.  The  people  will  have 
to  look  a  little  more  closely  into  the  laws  of  political 
economy,  and  they  will  learn  that  fortunes  are  not 
made  in  a  day,  but  by  years  of  toil,  labor  and  econ- 
omy. The  vast  volume  of  paper  currency,  the  result 
of  the  late  war,  filled  the  land  with  wild  and  reckless 
speculators.  The  desire  and  facilities  for  making 
money  rapidly  found  its  way  among  ail  classes  and 
professions  ;  fortunes  were  made  in  a  few  months, 
and  are  being  lost  in  as  many  days. 

The  people  are  realizing  that  "  riches  have  wings  " 
even  in  New  York,  and  "  he  that  hasteth  to  be  rich, 
shall  not  be  innocent."  The  tendency  here  is  for  the 
large  houses  to  monopolize  trade,  and  thereby  crush 
the  smaller.  How  much  better  it  would  be  for  the 
city  to  have  one  hundred  houses  sell  in  the  aggregate 
a  hundred  millions  of  dollars,  than  to  have  that 
amount  of  business  absorbed  by  Stewart  and  Clafiin. 
Stewart  began  here  with  a  small  capital.  By  his  in- 
dustry and  great  mercantile  abilities,  in  forty  years 
has  become  the  richest  man  in  America,  if  not  in  the 
world.  It  is  said  his  heart  is  as  cold  as  the  marble 
palaces  in  which  he  has  amassed  his  colossal  fortune. 
They  say  no  merchant  North  has  been  so  hard  on 
his  unfortunate  Southern  creditors  as  A.  T.  Stewart. 
Allowances  should  be  made  for  the  curses  that  are 
heaped  on  Stewart's  head.  Every  successful  man  has 
his  green-eyed  enemies.  It  is  easier  to  abuse  this 
merchant  prince  than  to  successfully  compete  with 
him  in  business.  New  York  is  one  of  the  most  ex- 
pensive   cities   in   the  world.     There  are  a   number 


400  Miscellaneous  Correspondence. 

of  firms  here  that  pay  fifty  thousand  dollars  per 
annum  rent,  and  as  much  more  for  clerk  hire,  per- 
sonal expenses,  etc. 

You  can  readily  perceive  what  a  large  amount  of 
business  must  be  done  to  meet  expenses.  Rents  are 
enormously  high,  and  yet  there  are  more  houses  "to 
let "  than  in  former  years.  The  aggregate  banking 
capital  of  New  York  City  is  eighty-five  millions  of 
dollars,  with  liabilities  amounting  to  three  hundred 
and  fifty  millions  !  A  large  amount  of  this  money 
is  due  to  individual  depositors,  and  country  banks 
and  bankers.  These  deposits  are  loaned  by  the 
banks  on  "  call."  If  there  should  be  a  commercial 
panic,  it  would  be  like  calling  spirits  from  the  vasty 
deep.  The  banks  have  less  than  ten  millions  gold, 
but  not  one  dollar  in  ten  of  this  sum  belongs  to 
them.  So  long  as  government  bonds  are  good,  the 
thirty-five  million  dollars  circulation  will  be  re- 
deemed. I  tell  the  financiers  here  that  if  they 
don't  want  Sambo  to  vote  for  repudiation,  they  must 
take  off  the  tax  of  two  and  one-half  cents  per  pound 
on  cotton  and  forty  cents  on  tobacco.  Would  the 
farmers  of  the  Empire  State  of  New  York  stand  such 
a  tax  on  their  wheat,  corn,  hay,  etc.?  I  think  not. 
Why  then  impose  this  tax  on  the  labor  of  the  poor 
white  and  colored  people  of  the  South  ? 

If  there  ever  was  a  time  when  our  people  required 
light  taxation,  now  is  the  time,  when  they  are  strug- 
gling for  mere  existence. 

The  commerce  of  this  city  is  immense,  and  the 
vast  accumulation  and  concentration  of  capital  here 


Miscellaneous  Correspondence.  40 1 

must  ever  make  New  York  the  great  commercial  cen- 
tre of  America.  The  excessive  imports  into  this  city 
in  1865— '66  resulted  in  heavy  losses,  not  only  to  the 
importers,  but  also  to  those  who  had  large  stocks  on 
hand.  The  decline  on  many  description  of  goods 
was  fifty  per  cent.  The  imports  into  New  York  from 
July  1865—66  were  one  hundred  and  eighty  millions 
of  dollars  against  one  hundred  and  forty  millions  the 
present  year.  The  above  figures  represent  gold  valu- 
ations. When  reduced  to  paper  currency,  with  the 
duties  paid,  of  course  the  amount  is  largely  increased. 
The  exports  of  domestic  produce  the  present  fiscal 
year  from  New  York  was  about  one  hundred  and 
seventy-four  million,  currency  value,  and  forty  mil- 
lions gold  and  bullion. 

The  merchants  and  bankers  here  are  looking  with 
great  interest  to  the  industrial  developments  of  the 
South.  Want  of  capital  is  a  great  drawback  to  rapid 
progress,  but  what  we  lack  in  capital  should  be  made 
up  in  industry,  and  money  will  flow  into  the  South  as 
soon  as  reconstruction  and  confidence  are  restored, 
but  never  while  we  remain  in  the  present  distracted  con- 
dition. Then  let  our  people  push  on  reconstruction. 
Delay  is  fatal  to  our  best  interests.  G.  W.  W. 


51 


IMPRESSIONS  OF  ST.  LOUIS. 


St.  Louis,  Missouri,  1867. 
I  have  spent  six  days  in  taking  a  careful  survey  of 
this  great  Western  City,  and  I  am  much  more  favor- 
ably impressed  with  St.  Louis,  especially  with  its 
brilliant  prospects  for  the  future,  than  with  any  city 
west  of  the  Alleghany.  During  the  four  years  of 
desolating  war,  the  commerce  of  St.  Louis  was  locked, 
and  the  keys  given  to  her  rival,  the  Garden  City,  on 
Lake  Michigan.  Chicago,  being  one  of  the  most 
wide-awake  towns  west  of  New  York,  was  not  slow 
in  taking  advantage  of  her  position.  Her  shrewd 
merchants,  with  the  key  of  disloyal  St.  Louis  in  their 
pockets,  could  get  permits  to  ship  immense  cargoes 
of  merchandize  to  and  from  St.  Louis,  thereby  reap- 
ing the  profits  that  legitimately  belonged  to  this  city. 
It  is  said  that  immense  fortunes  were  made  in  this 
way,  and  that  some  army  officers  shared  in  the  spoils. 
As  the  people  of  Missouri  are  not  yet  fully  recon- 
structed, allowance  must  be  made  for  the  stories  they 
tell  of  their  neighbors  across  the  river.  I  was  amused 
to  witness  the  rivalry  that  exists  between  the  two 
cities.  A  Missourian  would  as  soon  invest  his  money 
in  the  sand  banks  of  Saco  Beach,  as  in  real  estate  in 
Chicago,  for  he  devoutly  believes — if  not  hopes — that 
Chicago  is  to  receive  her  final  doom  long  before  the 
general  conflagration — that  she  is  not  to  be  destroyed 
by  fire,  but  is  to  be  buried  beneath  the  angry  billows 


Miscellaneous  Correspondence.  403 

of  Lake  Michigan.  If  the  wealthy  men  of  this  city- 
would  imitate  the  "  reckless  speculators  "  of  Chicago 
in  pushing  forward  to  completion  their  line  of  rail- 
ways, they  would  then  have  less  cause  to  be  jealous 
of  their  energetic  and  prosperous  neighbors.  Forty 
years  ago  the  site  on  which  Chicago  now  stands,  was 
a  wilderness  inhabited  by  savage  Indians.  At  present 
it  is  the  centre  of  a  great  net-work  of  railways,  and  has 
become  a  rich  and  prosperous  city,  having  some  two 
hundred  thousand  inhabitants,  and  is  one  of  the  largest 
grain  depots  in  the  world. 

St.  Louis,  however,  is  destined  to  be  the  New  York 
of  the  West.  It  is  built  on  solid  rock,  on  the  west 
bank  of  the  father  of  waters,  a  single  branch  of 
which  is  navigable  up  the  great  Northwest,  three 
thousand  two  hundred  miles.  Situated  as  St.  Louis 
is,  in  the  centre  of  the  Valley  of  the  Mississippi,  mid- 
way between  the  Atlantic  and  Pacific  Oceans,  it  is  to 
be  the  commercial  heart  of  North  America.  Nature 
has  marked  St.  Louis  as  the  great  inland  metropolis 
of  this  Continent ;  her  twenty  thousand  miles  of  nav- 
igable waters  pouring  their  rich  cargoes  into  this 
mart,  with  lines  of  railroads  which  are  to  tap  the 
Pacific,  surrounded  by  one  hundred  thousand  square 
miles  of  the  most  fertile  land  on  the  globe.  With 
these  streams  of  gold  pouring  into  her,  St.  Louis 
must  in  time  become  one  of  the  richest  and  most 
populous  cities  in  America. 

If  church  steeples  are  any  indication  of  the  piety 
of  a  city,  then  St.  Louis  must  be  considered  a  pious 
city.     She  has  one  hundred  and  fifteen  churches,  ten 


404  Miscellaneous  Correspondence. 

convents,  numerous  universities,  high  schools,  medi- 
cal colleges,  academies,  etc.  She  has  fifteen  orphan 
asylums  and  homes  for  the  widows  and  destitute. 
The  Roman  Catholics  are  building  here  one  of  the 
finest  Cathedrals  in  the  United  States.  St  Louis  has 
fifty  incorporated  banks  and  private  banking  houses, 
employing  a  capital  of  forty  millions  of  dollars.  She 
also  has  forty-five  insurance  companies.  Fifteen  hun- 
dred buildings,  mostly  of  brick  and  stone,  were  erected 
during  the  past  year.  Ten  daily  newspapers  are 
printed  here ;  some  of  them  are  ably  edited. 

The  Merchant's  Exchange  reminded  me  of  the 
world-renowned  Bourse  of  old  Hamberg,  in  Ger- 
many. At  11  o'clock,  the  merchants,  bankers  and 
brokers,  representing  every  branch  of  commerce, 
assemble  in  a  spacious  hall,  and  dispose  of  the  rich 
cargoes  of  merchandize,  grain  and  provisions  which 
are  being  landed  on  the  spacious  levee  from  the  float- 
ing palaces,  just  in  from  the  Rocky  Mountains  or  the 
Gulf  of  Mexico.  St.  Louis  sold  last  year  more  than 
two  hundred  million  dollars  worth  of  provisions  and 
merchandize ;  her  trade  can  be  doubled  if  she  will 
push  forward  her  line  of  railways.  The  economical 
Germans  are  to  be  met  here  in  every  branch  of  com- 
merce and  profession,  and  by  their  industry  and  fru- 
gality have  added  much  to  the  wealth  of  their  adopted 
city.  The  active,  enterprising  Yankees  have  also  done 
their  share  in  building  up  the  commerce  of  St.  Louis. 
The  New  Englanders  who  come  West  remind  me  of 
a  boy  I  knew  in  the  mountains  of  Georgia,  who  des- 
troyed one-half  of  his  mother's  chickens  in  his  impa- 


Miscellaneous  Correspondence.  405 

tience  to  have  them  "hatch"  in  less  than  twenty-one 
days.  The  New  Englanders,  with  their  activity  and 
energy  of  character,  clear  the  forests,  build  railroads, 
erect  rude  dwellings,  lay  the  foundation  for  great 
cities,  but  they  can't  wait  the  full  twenty-one 
days.  They  are  impatient  to  realize,  sell  out  and  take 
hold  of  a  new  enterprise.  Many  a  fortune  is  lost, 
much  happiness  destroyed,  and  many  a  chicken  killed 
in  the  shell  by  this  impatient,  restless  spirit.  You 
might  as  well  expect  the  waters  that  flow  over  the 
rapids  above  the  falls  of  Niagara  to  flow  gently  and 
smoothly  as  that  the  "  irrepressible  "  Yankee  should 
remain  quietly  in  a  Western  home,  especially  when 
he  hears  that  there  are  richer  lands  a  few  hundred 
miles  further  West. 

The  mountains  of  mineral  wealth  which  lie  at  the 
very  doors  of  St.  Louis  will  necessarily  make  her  a 
great  manufacturing  as  well  as  a  great  commercial 
city.  In  addition  to  its  rich  mines  of  coal,  lead  and 
iron,  they  have  recently  discovered  tin. 

St.  Louis  possesses  the  elements  of  greatness  in 
having  an  abundance  of  cheap  food,  cheap  fuel,  and 
cheap  transportation. 

I  go  to-morrow  to  Iron  Mountain,  and  then  further 
West,  on  the  Pacific  Railroad. 

If  the  Indians  don't  scalp  me,  you  may  hear  from 
me  again  from  the  Western  wilds. 

G.  W.  W. 


COMMERCIAL  AND  POLITICAL  PROSPECTS  AT 
THE  SOUTH. 


[for  the  journal  of  commerce.] 

New  York,   1867. 

Messrs.  Editors  :  I  send  you  an  extract  from  a 
letter  written  by  an  old  Charleston  merchant,  who 
has,  during  the  past  two  months,  travelled  extensively 
through  South  Carolina,  Georgia,  and  a  portion  of 
Alabama.  The  writer  of  the  letter  is  a  careful  obser- 
ver, not  given  to  looking  too  favorably  on  the  bright 
side  of  things.  Four  years  of  desolating  war  broke 
all  of  our  banks  at  the  South  ;  the  currency  of  the 
country,  which  amounted  to  almost  as  much  as  the 
whole  debt  of  the  United  States,  collapsed  with  the 
Confederacy  ;  many  of  our  towns  and  cities  were 
destroyed  ;  ruin  was  spread  broadcast  throughout  the 
land.  Our  people,  however,  have  left  to  them  their 
land,  which  is  the  foundation  of  all  wealth. 

I  have  made,  during  the  summer  months,  an  exten- 
sive tour,  first  through  the  States  where  the  farms  are 
worked  by  freed  colored  labor  ;  and  recently  through 
the  West,  where  white  labor  prevails.  To  my  utter 
surprise  the  farms  are  much  better  cultivated  at  the 
South  than  in  the  West.  If  the  politicians  will  only 
let  the  South  quietly  reconstruct  their  soil,  the  crops, 
instead  of  being  worth  four  hundred  millions  of  dol- 
lars per  annum,  will  in  a  short  time  be  worth  a  thou- 
sand millions  ! 


Miscellaneous  Correspondence.  407 

The  negroes  certainly  have  a  greater  incentive  to 
work  now  than  when  they  were  slaves. 

My  experience  during  the  past  two  years  proves 
that  they  do  much  better,  under  the  circumstances  by 
which  they  are  surrounded,  than  could  be  expected. 
It  is  estimated  that  the  South  has  lost  three  thousand 
million  dollars  by  the  abolition  of  slavery.  If  the 
freed  or  colored  labor  can  be  utilized — that  is,  if  the 
four  millions  of  men  and  women  who  were  recently 
slaves,  can  produce  by  their  labor  as  much  cotton, 
corn,  sugar  and  rice  now  as  they  did  before  the  war, 
the  South  will,  in  a  short  time,  regain  her  wealth,  and 
again  become  great  and  prosperous.  What  we  want 
above  all  things  is  peace.     Political  anarchy  is  ruin. 

G.  W.  W. 

The  following  is  the  extract  above  alluded  to : 

"  In  regard  to  the  commercial  prospects  of  our 
Southern  country,  I  am  much  more  hopeful  than  I 
was  before  my  inland  trip,  and  rather  more  hopeful 
than  you  seem  to  be  at  the  present  moment.  When 
you  remember  that  the  South  the  past  year  has  had 
little  money  to  spare  except  for  bread  and  for  appli- 
ances for  planting,  you  cannot  wonder  that  securities 
of  all  kinds  have  been,  and  are  very  cheap.  But  bear 
in  mind  that  the  wheat  and  oat  crops  have  been 
heavy,  that  corn  is  made  and  is  abundant,  and  that 
cotton  in  general  looks  well,  and  you  will  have  reason 
to  believe  that  the  coming  fall  and  winter  will  produce 
great  commercial  changes.  The  money  value  of 
Southern  crops  cannot  be  less  than  four  hundred  mil- 


408  Miscellaneous   Correspondence. 

lion  dollars,  of  which  the  negro  will  receive  above  a 
quarter,  every  dollar  of  which  he  will  spend  at  the 
South  ;  and,  as  the  planter  has  made,  generally,  his 
provisions  for  next  year,  he  will  also  have  a  large 
supply  of  money.  What  can  he  do  with  it?  He 
cannot  buy  negroes.  He  will  not  invest  it  in  North- 
ern securities — possibly  not  in  governmental.  He 
has  no  taste  to  improve  his  dwelling,  and  he  will 
get  tired  of  hoarding  gold.  Is  it  not,  therefore,  a 
fair  inference  that  he  will  begin  to  seek  Southern 
securities  ?  And  when  the  ball  begins  to  roll,  there 
will  be  a  rush,  and  a  great  advance  in  their  value.  I 
sought  for  the  cause  of  the  rapid  building  up  of 
Atlanta.  It  was  not  done  by  Northern  capital — but 
largely  through  money  owned  by  planters — who  pre- 
fer mortgages  in  Atlanta  to  any  other  security.  They 
have,  in  many  cases,  loaned  their  money  at  seven  per 
cent,  interest  to  rebuild  their  favorite  city.  And  in 
Georgia,  even  now,  they  can  find  capital  to  build  fac- 
tories, go  on  with  railroads,  and  other  improvements. 
What  will  it  be  when  four  hundred  millions  more 
money  is  put  afloat  ? 

"  The  political  horizon  is  dark,  but  not  hopeless  ; 
the  storm  will  soon  blow  over,  while  the  great  masses 
of  our  people  will  quietly  go  on  with  their  industrial 
employments.  What  we  need  now  beyond  all  account 
for  the  business  of  our  city,  is  a  railroad  from  Poco- 
taligo  to  Millen  ;  this  would  open  a  straight  railroad 
line  to  Shrieveport,  beyond  the  Mississippi,  and  so  on 
to  Texas,  and  give  us  a  part  of  the  great  trade  of  the 
Gulf.     We  shall  lose  a  part  of  upper  Georgia  and 


Miscellaneous  Correspondence.  409 

Tennessee  when  the  Hamburg  and  Columbia  Road  is 
finished,  but  we  can  make  it  up  and  five  times  over, 
if  we  can  connect  at  Millen.  The  Central  Road  is 
now  with  us  in  this  thing,  for  their  trade  is  tapped  at 
Macon.  They  will  be  willing  to  save  one  hundred 
and  twenty-one  mil.es  to  Millen,  if  they  do  lose  travel 
on  seventy-nine  miles  from  there  to  Savannah." 


GOV.  SCOTT  AND  THE  NEWS. 


The  following  correspondence  is  published  in  the 
Columbia  "  Phcenix."  As  the  matter  to  which  it 
refers  is  one  of  public  importance,  we  place  the  let- 
ters in  full  before  our  readers. — Charleston  Nezvs. 

[LETTER  FROM  GEO.   W.  WILLIAMS,  ESQ.] 

Charleston,  April  3,  1869. 
Governor:  I  seldom  read  the  newspapers  beyond 
the  commercial  information  they  contain ;  neither 
have  I  taken  any  part  in  politics  since  the  defeat  of 
Clay,  in  1844,  and  I  attach  but  little  importance  to 
what  the  newspapers  may  say  of  you  and  your  admin- 
istration. I  must  confess,  however,  that  the  editorial 
which  appeared  in  to-day's  "  News "  fills  my  mind 
with  the  gloomiest  apprehensions.  I  sincerely  hope 
that  the  Charleston  editor  is  the  victim  of  an  April 
fool,  for  I  have  too  much  confidence  in  your  judg- 
ment to  believe  that  you  would,  at  this  season  of  the 
year,  and  in  time  of  perfect  'peace,  introduce  an  ele- 
52 


4 1  o  Miscellaneous  Correspondence. 

merit  in  the  State  which  would  demoralize  the  agri- 
cultural labor  from  the  seaboard  to  the  mountains. 
You  have  lived  long  enough  at  the  South,  Governor, 
to  learn  something  of  the  negro  character,  and  how 
easily  they  are  drawn  from  their  daily  pursuits  by 
circus  exhibitions  and  military  parades.  The  forma- 
tion of  a  few  negro  regiments  at  this  time,  would  not 
only  have  the  most  disastrous  effects  upon  the  agri- 
cultural laborers  (both  white  and  black)  of  the  State, 
but  would  unquestionably  lead  to  a  war  of  races. 

The  merchants  and  factors  of  Charleston  are  strain- 
ing every  nerve  to  aid  the  planters,  and  they  have 
been  gratified  to  learn  that  the  negroes  throughout 
the  State  were  working  with  unusual  energy,  and 
were  much  better  pleased  with  their  prospects  than 
at  any  time  since  the  termination  of  the  war.  You 
have,  Governor,  seen  enough  of  war  to  fully  appre- 
ciate the  value  of  peace.  A  few  years  of  peace  will 
restore  the  old  Palmetto  State  to  her  former  pros- 
perity ;  but  a  war  of  races  will  prove  ruinous  to  the 
interests  of  both  white  and  black,  and  reduce  the 
State  to  anarchy  and  ruin.  I  trust  you  will  tele- 
graph me  to  contradict  the  statement  made  in  the 
"  Daily  News."  You  cannot  well  imagine  the  deep 
feeling  and  apprehension  of  trouble  the  article  has 
excited  among  the  sober  and  well-disposed  men  of 
this  community. 

I  have  the  honor  to  remain, 

Your  obedient  servant, 
(Signed)  GEO.  W.  WILLIAMS. 

To  Governor  R.  K.  Scott,  Columbia,  S.  C. 


Miscellaneous  Correspondence.  4 1 1 

To  this  the  following  reply  was  transmitted  by  tele- 
graph : 

Columbia,  April  4,  1869. 
Geo.  W.  Williams,  Esq. :  Say  to  well-disposed  busi- 
ness men  of  Charleston,  that  they  should  have  seen 
heretofore  enough  of  such  blood  and  thunder  fulmi- 
nations  as  the  one  you  forward  me,  clipped  from  the 
"  News,"  to  have  justified  them  in  treating  the  authors 
with  contempt,  and  the  article  with  indifference.  I 
will  reply  to  you  by  mail. 

ROBERT  K.  SCOTT, 

Governor. 


NACOOCHEE  AND  ITS  SURROUNDINGS. 


LETTER    ONE. 


NACOOCHEE  AND  ITS  SURROUNDINGS. 


Home  again !  Yes,  after  long  years  of  desolating 
war,  I  find  myself  once  more  at  my  old  home  in  the 
mountains  of  Georgia,  in  the  sweet  vale  of  Nacoochee, 

"  Where  the  zephyrs  perfume  as  from  the  spice  islands, 
Mount  up  from  the  valley  to  welcome  the  morn, 
Where  the  gale  robs  the  zephyrs  to  gladden  the  highlands, 
With  sweetness  that  e'en  to  proud  Yonah  is  borne. 

"Tis  a  valley  of  peace,  rich  in  every  soft  feature, 
In  sunshine  or  shade,  in  its  own  verdant  green, 

'Tis  Georgia's  Egeria,  most  lovely  by  nature 

Carved  out  of  a  chaos  of  wild  mountain  scene." 

In  my  ramble  of  twenty  thousand  miles,  I  have 
found  no  country  to  me  more  lovely  than  Nacoochee 
and  its  surroundings.  Not  even  the  tropical  valleys 
of  the  West  Indies,  with  their  majestic  palms,  fragrant 
flowers  and  fruits;  nor  Italy,  with  its  vine-clad  hills 
and  groves  of  olives  and  oranges ;  nor  Switzerland, 
with  its  silvery  lakes,  fertile  valleys,  mountain  gorges 
and  snow-capped  Alps.    The  name  of  the  sweet  Indian 


NacoocJiee  and  its  Surroundings.  4 1 3 

word  Nacoochee  is  "  Evening  Star."     The  name  was 
applied  to  a  beautiful  daughter  of  a  Cherokee  Chief. 

Through  the  charming  valley  of  Nacoochee,  the 
picturesque  Chattahoochee  winds  its  way.  Broad 
fields  of  Indian  corn,  and  flowering  meadow  lands 
skirt  its  banks.  Not  even  a  thirty  years  exile  from 
this  mountain  home  lessens  the  throbbing  of  my  heart 
as  I  return  to  it ;  and  the  return  to  Nacoochee,  at  this 
time,  is  made  doubly  interesting,  as  I  brought  with 
me  two  sisters  who  had  been  absent  nearly  a  score  of 
years.  That  white  house  peeping  out  of  the  grove, 
(now  the  residence  of  my  youngest  sister,)  is  the  home 
in  which  my  parents,  of  precious  memory,  lived  and 
died.  The  grand  old  oaks  which  have  withstood  the 
storms  of  a  century — the  trees  under  which  we  in  child- 
hood frolicked,  are  still  green,  and  annually  send  forth 
their  autumn  fruit.  The  little  Lombardy  poplars  plant- 
ed by  our  tiny  hands  have  grown  to  be  lofty  trees.  The 
modest  Methodist  Church  near  by,  is  where  Andrew 
and  Olin  thundered  forth  their  youthful  eloquence,  and 
where  Richardson,  Askew,  Glenn,  and  other  sainted 
ministers,  preached  in  the  prime  of  their  manhood. 

And  there,  too,  is  the  mound  on  which  I  made  my 
first  adventure  in  agriculture.  It  was  the  custom  of 
my  father,  as  a  means  of  encouraging  his  sons  to 
habits  of  industry,  to  give  to  each  a  small  portion  of 
land,  the  products  of  which  they  claimed  as  their 
own.  My  broad  acre  begun  at  the  foot  and  ended  at 
the  summit  of  the  Indian  mound.  It  was  too  steep 
and  rugged  to  be  cultivated  by  the  plough.  I  had  to 
rely  entirely  upon  the  hoe. 


414  Nacoochee  and  its  Surroundings. 

Having  pitched  my  crop,  the  tender  plants  sprang 
forth  from  the  rich  soil,  and  my  hopes  ran  high  at  the 
prospect  of  a  bountiful  yield.  Alas  !  for  human  hopes 
and  expectations,  the  scorching  suns  of  July  came, 
but  not  a  drop  of  rain.  While  my  father's  well  cul- 
tivated fields  of  corn  in  the  moist  valley  below  were 
fresh  and  luxuriant,  mine  on  the  mound  began  to  wilt 
and  droop.  The  prospect  of  becoming  a  bankrupt 
farmer  daily  became  more  threatening.  As  I  stood 
gazing  on  my  blighted  prospects,  and  thinking  what 
should  be  done,  my  eye  fell  upon  the  beautiful  Chat- 
tahoochee, which  makes  nearly  a  circuit  around  the 
mound.  At  the  sight  of  this  mountain  stream  hope 
revived.  I  saw  that  success  was  now  within  my 
grasp.  No  time  was  lost  in  applying  to  each  thirsty 
hill  of  corn  the  refreshing  water,  which  was  brought 
in  a  bucket  from  the  Chattahoochee  by  the  light  of 
the  moon.  This  patient  and  unwearied  application  of 
water  at  a  time  when  rain  failed  to  fall  from  the  clouds, 
saved  my  crop  and  made  my  fortune  of  ten  dollars ! 

To  this  circumstance,  though  apparently  trivial  in 
itself,  I  attribute  much  of  my  success  in  after  life.  This 
small  capital  often  dollars  was  what  I  had  to  begin  life 
with,  after  a  walk  of  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles  from 
Nacoochee  to  Augusta,  Ga.,  at  which  city  I  arrived  in 
1838.  In  the  rough  path  of  commerce,  over  which  I 
have  traveled  many  long  years,  I  have  encountered 
scorching  drouths,  financial  panics,  desolating  wars  and 
steep  mounds,  covered  with  thorns  and  thistles. 

At  times,  I  felt  that  the  burdens  and  difficulties  I 
had  to  overcome  were  greater  than  I  could  bear,  and 


Nacoochcc  and  its  Surroundings.  415 

often  was  tempted  to  falter  by  the  way ;  but  in  these 
trials  I  always  remembered  the  small  farm  on  the 
Nacoochee  mound,  and  the  lesson  it  taught  me — 
which  was  to  have  faith  and  a  general  reliance  in 
Providence,  but  never  to  fail  in  using  all  the  means  a 
merciful  God  had  placed  within  my  reach.  I  have 
learned  from  hard-earned  experience  that  success 
means  toil,  energy,  watchfulness,  order,  justice,  so- 
briety and  economy.  In  this  day  men  are  not  fed 
by  ravens,  but  are  commanded  to  earn  their  bread  by 
the  sweat  of  the  brow — a  commandment  some  people 
find  very  hard  to  obey. 

G.  W.  W. 
Nacoochee  Valley,  August,  1869. 


LETTER  TWO. 


Nacoochee  Valley,  Ga.,  August,  1869. 
Seventy  years  ago,  my  father,  Major  Edward  Wil- 
liams, was  a  resident  of  Charleston,  S.  C.  An  attack 
of  "  stranger's  fever  "  and  small-pox  led  him  to  seek 
a  home  in  a  more  salubrious  climate.  This  he  found 
in  the  mountains  of  North  Carolina,  where  he  also 
found  a  sprightly  mountain  girl,  the  daughter  of  a 
successful  merchant,  whom  he  married.  His  home 
was  filled  in  a  few  years  with  half  a  score  of  boys  and 
girls.  These  new  responsibilities  made  it  necessary 
that  he  should  have  cheap  and  productive  land,  on 
which  to  make  bread  to  feed  them. 


4 1 6  Nacoochee  and  its  Surroundings. 

When  my  father  visited  this  portion  of  Georgia, 
then  almost  a  wilderness  country,  it  was  settled  mainly 
by  Indians ;  scattered  here  and  there  were  a  few 
whites,  in  civilization  not  much  in  advance  of  the  sav- 
ages ;  only  their  superiors  in  cunning  and  knavery. 
My  father  was  so  much  pleased  with  the  rich  lands, 
pure  air  and  water,  and  magnificent  mountain  scenery, 
that  he  made  an  extensive  purchase,  embracing  the 
centre  of  Nacoochee  Valley.  A  portion  of  this  pur- 
chase was  to  be  paid  for  in  corn  and  wheat.  This 
was  easily  done,  as  the  farms  were  rented  to  industri- 
ous tenants,  whom  he  brought  with  him  from  North 
Carolina.  As  the  Valley  was  very  productive,  three 
years'  rent  was  sufficient  to  discharge  the  debt.  The 
land  which  sold  at  that  time  for  one  dollar  per  acre, 
now  commands  from  twenty  to  thirty. 

At  one  time  Nacoochee  was  the  largest  town  in  the 
Cherokee  Nation,  and  was  strongly  defended  by  forti- 
fications. 

Along  the  lines  of  these  fortifications,  mounds  were 
raised,  on  which  Indian  chiefs  securely  resided  in 
their  mud-thatched  palaces.  By  whom  raised,  tradi- 
tion fails  to  say.  Such  labors  were  clearly  beyond 
the  capacity  of  the  red  men,  who  possessed  none  of 
the  necessary  implements  for  such  work.  It  is  believed 
that  the  daring  Spaniards  visited  this  country  as  early 
as  the  twelfth  century  in  search  of  gold  and  diamonds, 
and  were  permitted  to  erect  the  fortifications  of  "  Na- 
coochee Old  Town."  But  when  the  savage  curiosity 
was  satisfied,  the  Spaniards  were  exterminated.  But 
all  these  traditions  are  not   only  problematical,  but 


NacoocJice  and  its  Surroundings.  417 

some  of  them  are  in  conflict  with  known  facts  of  his- 
tory. It  would  be  better  to  say  Europeans  than 
Spaniards. 

What  a  change !  Not  a  vestige  of  that  ancient 
town  remains ;  the  Indians  who  possessed  this  beau- 
tiful country  have  been  driven  from  their  cherished 
hunting  grounds  to  the  far  West.  The  once  strong 
walls  of  Nacoochee  are  levelled  to  the  ground,  and 
the  mounds,  which  cost  so  much  toil  and  labor,  are 
sharing  the  same  fate.  No  proud  monument  stands 
to  point  out  the  resting  place  of  the  old  chiefs  and 
their  brave  warriors. 

The  lofty  pine  which  withstood  the  pelting  storms 
of  centuries,  the  tree  that  marks  the  grave  of  Nacoo- 
chee and  bore  aloft  the  Confederate  flag  during  the 
late  bloody  war,  died  with  our  lost  cause.  It  is  now 
a  blighted  tree — fit  emblem  of  the  temptest-tost  Con- 
federacy. 

The  white  man,  as  he  drives  his  plough  merily  over 
the  bones  of  his  red  brother,  thinks  that  he  came  hon- 
estly in  the  possession  of  these  broad  acres.  If  any 
wrong  was  committed,  has  it  not  been  amply  atoned 
for  by  the  introduction  among  the  savages  of  pure 
New  England  rum  and  pious  missionaries  ?  The 
dreadful  work  of  extermination  which  was  com- 
menced by  the  Pilgrim  Fathers  centuries  ago ;  an 
extermination  which  has  been  unceasingly  kept  up 
in  the  name  of  Christianity !  is  fast  blotting  from  the 
earth  a  great  family  of  populous  nations.  At  the 
last  day,  when  Gabriel  sounds  his  trumpet  to  awake 
the  slumbering  dead,  and  the  great  book  is  opened, 
53 


41 8  Nacoochee  and  its  Surroundings. 

nations  and  governments,  as  well  as  individuals,  will 
call  upon  the  mountains  to  fall  upon  them,  that  they 
and  their  sins  may  be  hidden  from  the  Judge  that  sit- 
teth  on  the  Throne. 

Tradition  has  it,  that  Nacoochee,  the  "  Evening 
Star,"  was  the  only  daughter  of  a  noted  Cherokee 
chief.  She  possessed  remarkable  beauty  and  grace 
of  manners.  This  lovely  maid  of  the  valley  was 
wooed  by  many  a  gallant  youth,  but  unfortunately 
was  won  by  a  brave  young  warrior  of  the  Choctaw 
Nation,  a  people  at  that  time  bitter  enemies  of  the 
Cherokees,  and  frequently  engaged  in  fierce  warfare 
with  them. 

One  dark  night,  Nacoochee  disappeared  from  her 
vine-clad  wigwam ;  she  had  eloped  with  Sautee,  son 
of  a  Choctaw  chief.  The  father  of  Nacoochee  sum- 
moned a  hundred  stout  warriors  to  go  in  pursuit  of 
his  erring  daughter.  The  valleys  and  mountains 
echoed  the  terrific  war-whoop,  as  they  were  search- 
ing every  hill  and  dale. 

Days  and  nights  passed,  but  Sautee  and  the  bright- 
eyed  Indian  girl  could  nowhere  be  found. 

The  enraged  father  refused  to  eat  or  sleep.  He 
believed  that  the  lovers  had  sought  refuge  under  the 
Great  Bear  (Yonah)  of  the  Valley.  Renewed  and 
more  diligent  search  was  made.  Sautee  had  selected. 
a  bridal  chamber  for  his  young  princess  (which  was 
amply  supplied  with  venison  and  wild  turkey,)  amid 
the  rocky  fastnesses  of  Mount  Yonah.  He  regarded 
the  rugged  cliffs  rising  in  their  native  grandeur 
around   him  as   secure  from  the  intrusion  of  friend  or 


Nacoochee  and  its  Surroundings.  419 

foe.  Nacoochee's  new  home  must  have  been  a  second 
Eden.  Before  her  stood  out  a  world  of  mountains, 
rising  one  above  another  until  their  lofty  peaks  were 
lost  in  the  blue  sky,  while  at  her  feet  nestled  the 
lovely  valleys  of  Nacochee  and  Sautee,  covered  with 
fragrant  forest  flowering  trees,  and  brilliant  rhododen- 
drons and  azaleas.  From  the  crevices  in  her  granite 
palace  gushed  forth  pure,  perennial  streams,  which 
are  joined  by  a  thousand  mountain  springs  that  con- 
stitute the  head-waters  of  the  picturesque  Chatta- 
hoochee River,  and  which  like  the  rivers  that  run 
out  of  the  Garden  of  Eden  abound  in  gold. 

The  cries  of  the  wolf  and  nighthawk  disturbed  not 
the  slumbers  of  the  youthful  lovers.  But  Nacoochee 
and  Sautee  could  no  more  successfully  conceal  them- 
selves from  the  revengful  warriors,  than  could  Adam 
and  Eve  hide  from  the  presence  of  the  Father  of  the 
great  human  family,  after  having  listened  to  the  beguil- 
ing serpent  and  eaten  of  the  forbidden  fruit.  A  savage 
shout  of  victory  announced  the  capture  of  the  foe, 
who  had  dared  rob  the  old  chief  of  his  daughter.  Hasty 
judgment  was  pronounced — Sautee  was  to  be  thrown, 
in  the  presence  of  Nacoochee,  from  the  highest  preci- 
pice of  Mount  Yonah.  Before  the  sentence  was  exe- 
cuted, the  warriors  engaged  in  a  death  song  and  war- 
dance  around  the  strongly  guarded  prisoner.  This 
was  kept  up  until  the  setting  sun  had  dropped  behind 
the  western  mountains,  and  the  evening  star  was 
looking  down  upon  the  tragic  scene. 

At  a  signal  from  the  old  chief,  four  strong  warriors 
seized  Sautee,  and  with  one  terrific  yell   hurled  him 


42  O  Nacoochee  and  its  Surroundings. 

headlong  int»  the  deep  chasm  beneath.  Quick  as 
thought,  Nacoochee  sprang  from  the  strong  embrace 
of  her  father,  and,  shouting  "  Sautee !  Sautee ! " 
threw  herself  from  the  overhanging  precipice.  Their 
mangled  remains  were  found  side  by  side  in  the  valley. 
The  terrific  shock  well-nigh  broke  the  heart  of  the 
aged  father.  He  directed  that  Nacoochee  and  Sautee 
should  be  buried  on  the  banks  of  the  Chattahoochee 
in  one  grave,  and  a  mound  raised  over  them  to  mark 
the  spot.  This  has  been  planted  in  vines  and  blue 
grass.  The  cypress,  ivy  and  rhododendron,  cover  the 
grave  of  Nacoochee  and  Sautee. 

The  Valleys  of  Nacoochee  and  Sautee,  which  unite 
just  below  the  residence  of  Colonel  E.  P.  Williams, 
were  named  to  perpetuate  the  memories  of  the  young 
Cherokee  girl  and  her  Choctaw  lover. 

G.  W.  W. 


LETTER    THREE 


Nacoochee  Valley,  Ga.,  August,  1869. 

The  discovery  of  gold  here  in  1828,  was  an  epoch 
in  the  history  of  this  quiet  mountain  people. 

Those  who  owned  forty  acre  lots  dreamed  of  golden 
fortunes,  very  few  of  which  were  ever  realized.  The 
excitement  was  greatly  increased  by  the  discovery  of 
a  lump  of  gold  in  a  neighboring  State  weighing 
twenty-eight  pounds.  It  is  not  an  uncommon  occur- 
rence here  to  find  pieces  weighing  from  one  to  three 
pounds. 

People  flocked  to  this  new  El  Dorado  from  all  sec- 
tions of  the  country.  Even  the  great  Calhoun  did 
not  escape  the  prevailing  epidemic.  Your  corres- 
pondent, then  a  small  boy,  knew  every  by-path 
through  the  mountains  ;  and  to  him  was  assigned  the 
honor  of  piloting  the  Carolina  statesman  to  Yonah, 
the  mines,  and  other  places  of  interest.  It  was  the 
year  the  "  abominable  "  Tariff  Act  was  passed,  and 
about  the  time  Mr.  Calhoun  resigned  his  position  as 
Vice-President  under  the  hero  of  New  Orleans. 

Mr.  Calhoun  was  at  Nacoochee  when  the  news  was 
received  that  South  Carolina  had  "  nullified."  I  shall 
never  forget  how  much  he  was  excited.  He  would 
walk  the  floor  for  hours  in  the  deepest  meditation, 
frequently  passing  his  long  fingers  nervously  through 
his  hair,  which  stood  almost  erect  on  his  head.     The 


422  Nacoochee  and  its  Surroundings . 

great  mind  of  Calhoun  penetrated  the  future ;  he  saw 
that  the  political  events  which  were  then  transpiring 
North  and  South,  would  result  either  in  a  dissolution 
of  the  Federal  Union,  or  a  desolating  civil  war.  Mr. 
Calhoun  seemed  to  dread  the  one  as  much  as  the 
other.  While  he  regarded  many  acts  of  Congress  as 
odious,  unjust  and  oppressive  to  the  South,  yet  he 
was  not  at  that  time  in  favor  of  a  dissolution  of  the 
Union  ;  he  stood  firmly  upon  the  Constitution  handed 
down  to  us  by  our  forefathers. 

The  political  fever,  however,  had  not  taken  so  entire 
possession  of  the  great  Carolina  statesman  as  that  he 
should  escape  the  gold  mania ;  he  had  studied  politi- 
cal economy  enough  to  know  that  gold  was  the  only 
true  representative  of  all  values,  and  the  great  leveller 
of  social  distinctions. 

It  was  the  custom  of  the  miners  and  speculators 
who  had  "  deposits  "  or  "  veins  "  for  sale  to  prepare 
them  for  "  testing."  My  father  warned  Mr.  Calhoun 
against  the  slight-of-hand  which  was  practiced  by 
many  of  these  Wall  street  adventurers ;  but  the  man 
who  was  wondrously  wise  in  politics  and  books,  heeded 
not  the  advice,  and  was  a  child  in  the  clutches  of  the 
rude  miners. 

To  be  certain  that  there  was  no  deception,  Mr.  Cal- 
houn would  select  a  piece  of  ground  untouched  by 
the  spade,  stand  by  and  see  the  small  trees  removed, 
then  the  earth,  until  the  gravel  and  slate  were  reached, 
which  was  washed  before  our  eyes.  If,  unluckily, 
they  did  not  succeed  in  finding  gold,  not  a  few  were 
unscrupulous  enough  to  have  it  concealed  about  their 


NacoocJicc  and  its  Surroundings.  423 

persons,  which  was  by  the  slight-of-hand  transferred 
into  the  pan.  This  was  what  was  called  "  salting," 
and  there  were  not  a  few  victims  to  this  mode  of 
"  cornering."  Mr.  Calhoun  paid  ten  thousand  dollars 
for  a  mine  not  worth  as  many  hundred  ;  he,  however, 
purchased  a  vein  of  ore  which  proved  to  be  of  im- 
mense value.  The  gold  was  embedded  in  a  stratum 
of  rocks,  and  there  could  be  no  deception  practiced 
in  such  mines.  Since  that  day,  there  have  been  great 
improvements  in  working  the  mines.  The  old  boxes 
and  log  troughs  have  given  place  to  the  hydraulic 
process,  and  all  the  latest  improvements  in  machinery 
have  been  introduced. 

The  Nacoochee  Hydraulic  Mining  Company  was 
established  just  before  the  late  war,  mainly  by  enter- 
prising New  Englanders. 

The  water  is  carried  in  a  canal  twelve  miles  in 
length,  which  cost  some  forty  thousand  dollars. 

The  canal  has  its  source  in  the  Blue  Ridge,  and  is 
carried  on  the  side  of  the  mountain.  With  its 
branches,  which  spread  out  on  the  ridges,  thou- 
sands of  acres  of  land  can  be  irrigated  and  washed. 
Deposits  and  veins  of  gold  extend  the  entire  length 
of  the  canal  and  its  branches. 

The  Nacoochee  Company  own  and  have  under 
lease,  eight  hundred  acres  of  the  best  mining  ground 
in  Georgia. 

It  is  surprising  to  see  with  what  force  the  water 
passes  through  the  pipes,  washing  down  the  hills 
almost  as  easily  as  if  they  were  so  many  banks  of 
snow.      Few  persons  fully    comprehend   the   power 


424  Nacooclice  and  its  Surroundings. 

and  force  of  water.  Such  streams  as  pass  through 
the  Nacoochee  Canal,  if  allowed  to  flow  down  the 
side  of  the  loftiest  mountain  unobstructed  by  rocks, 
would  in  a  short  time  level  it  with  the  valley.  A 
friend  of  mine,  who  had  charge  of  one  of  the  aque- 
ducts, came  near  being  buried  alive.  An  old  tunnel, 
which  had  been  dug  many  years  ago,  was  penetrated 
by  water  from  the  canal,  which  had  been  gradually 
undermining  the  mountain  for  days.  My  friend 
heard  an  unusual  roaring,  and  saw  the  forest  trees 
near  him  begin  to  shake  and  the  earth  to  quiver ; 
then  followed  a  loud  crash.  The  trees  and  ground 
were  swallowed  in  an  immense  chasm ;  he  had  just 
left  the  spot  that  disappeared  forever. 

When  and  how  the  rich  deposits  and  gold-bearing 
rocks  were  formed  is  a  mooted  question  between 
learned  geologists  who  have  given  much  attention  to 
this  interesting  branch  of  science.  Dr.  M.  F.  Steph- 
enson, one  of  the  most  experienced  miners  in  the 
South,  and  a  gentleman  of  more  than  ordinary  intel- 
ligence, in  a  recent  communication  upon  the  subject 
of  "  segregated  gold  veins,"  writes  : 

"  When  the  Yonah  Mountain  and  Blue  Ridge  for 
nine  hundred  miles  were  elevated  the  true  veins 
were  formed,  which  made  the  placers  or  deposits  at 
Richardson's  mine,  at  Nacoochee,  and  on  the  moun- 
tain near  Dean's  Cabin.  All  of  which  veins  are  and 
will  be  found  to  traverse  or  cross  the  strata,  proving 
that  they  were  made  after  the  stratified  rocks  were 
hardened,  and  by  their  upheaval  were  fissured,  and 
those  fissures  were  filled  with  silica,  gold,  iron,  etc., 


NacoocJiee  and  its  Surroundings.  425 

which,  upon  coating,  formed  the  fissure  veins,  some 
of  which  have  been  found;  and  those  at  Nacoochee 
will  be  found  whenever  the  company  abandons  the 
absurd  theory  of  Professor  Blake,  and  adopts  the 
only  rational  one  of  recent  volcanic  action  ;  for  it  is 
an  axiom  that  massive  gold  is  never  found  in  a 
'  segregated  vein  '  nor  smooth  nuggets.  Why  ? 
Because  the  gold  by  segregation  in  silica  becomes 
ragged  and  rough,  when  that  from  volcanic  veins  with 
oxide  of  iron  cools  off  in  a  matrix,  which  leaves  it 
smooth  as  if  water-worn.  These  are  facts  which  are 
predicated  on  the  immutable  laws  of  chemistry  and 
God,  and  cannot  be  successfully  contradicted.  The 
vein  which  formed  by  decomposition  the  Richardson 
mine — the  McGhee  mine,  where  the  company  are 
now  finding  large  nuggets — was  formed  when  Yonah 
Mountain  was  upheaved,  and  is  a  cross  vein,  or  what 
is  technically  called  a  true  or  fissure  vein,  and  runs 
from  Richardson's  house  to  the  Dean  hill  on  the 
McGhee  lot,  in  a  northwesterly  direction  ;  this  is 
proved  by  the  ravines,  which  all  yield  similar  nuggets 
when  they  cross  this  line  of  vein,  and  also  by  the 
volcanic  rock  which  intrudes — all  proves  a  fissure  to 
exist,  and  when  found,  like  the  Loud  mine,  will 
prove  to  be  worth  millions,  for  fissure  veins  always 
improve  in  size  and  quality." 

There  is  more  gold  in  "  Nacoochee  and  its  Sur- 
roundings "  than  there  is  in  the  vaults  of  all  the 
banks  in  the  United  States.  How  much  it  will  cost 
to  remove  it  from  the  present  snug  deposits  remains 
to  be  seen.  The  expense  of  mining,  since  the  intro- 
54 


426  Nacoochee  and  its  Surroundings. 

duction  of  improved  machinery,  is  greatly  reduced; 
with  the  use  of  canals  and  pipes  one  man  can  do  the 
work  of  a  dozen  under  the  old  process.  The  result 
is  that  mines  are  now  worked  at  a  profit,  which  were 
abandoned  years  ago.  I  see  no  reason  why  fortunes 
should  not  be  realized  by  those  who  are  engaged  in 
mining  under  the  California  system.  The  best  valley 
land  here,  commands  fifty  dollars  per  acre ;  the  pro- 
prietors sell  with  great  reluctance,  as  they  do  not  know 
but  that,  in  parting  with  a  ten  acre  lot,  they  may  sell 
a  gold  mine  worth  a  hundred  thousand  dollars. 

I  have  a  nugget  of  gold  weighing  five-eights  of  a 
pound,  which  was  picked  up  recently  by  my  brother, 
Colonel  E.  P.  Williams,  in  a  field  near  his  residence. 
This  gold  had  been  ploughed  over  for  many  years, 
and  was  brought  to  light  by  a  hard  washing  rain. 
You  can  scarcely  sink  a  pit  in  these  hills  and  valleys 
without  finding  particles  of  gold.  When  a  little  boy, 
I  got  the  gold  fever  up  to  one  hundred  degrees  Fah- 
renheit, and  prevailed  on  my  father  to  embark  in 
mining.  To  my  great  delight,  he  promised  to  begin 
operations  the  next  morning.  That  night  visions  of 
gold  dazzled  my  wakeful  eyes.  I  was  impatient  for 
the  coming  of  morning.  At  the  break  of  day,  I  was 
with  my  father  in  the  barn  yard — he  ordered  me  to 
put  the  plough-harness  upon  "  Old  Dick,"  a  favorite 
horse  he  brought  from  North  Carolina. 

In  a  short  time  Dick  was  harnessed,  and  I  was 
directed  to  hitch  him  to  the  plough  !  I  thought  this 
a  new  mode  of  "  digging  gold,"  but  as  my  father's 
orders  were  never  questioned,  I  silently  obeyed. 


Nacoochee  and  its  Surroundings.  427 

My  father  selected  a  broad  corn  field  on  which  to 
initiate  me  in  the  mysteries  of  mining.  Carrying  me 
to  the  field,  he  said  :  "  Now  George,  you  see  the  corn; 
plough  four  furrows  carefully  between  each  row. 
This  field  is  a  sure  gold  mine — one  that  has  never 
failed  me.  We  will  make  corn  to  sell  to  those  men 
who  spend  all  their  time  hunting  for  gold."  I  fol- 
lowed "Old  Dick"  and  my  father's  orders  to  the 
letter.  When  the  hard  day's  work  was  over,  I  took  for 
supper  rye  mush  and  milk.  That  night  I  was  too 
tired  and  too  little  fanciful  to  dream ;  by  morning  the 
gold  fever  was  so  effectually  cured,  I  have  never  had 
a  return  of  it. 

September,  1869.  G.  W.  W. 


LETTER      FOUR 


"  Child  of  the  Chattahoochee  ! 

Hid  in  the  hills  afar ! 
Beautiful  Nacoochee, 

Vale  of  the  Evening  Star  ! 

"  Hushed  in  the  mountain  shadows, 
With  the  May  dew  on  her  breast ; 

Her  breath,  is  the  breath  of  meadows, 
And  her  very  name  sighs  '  rest !' 

"  The  voice  of  a  loved  one  calling, 
The  feet  that  have  wandered  far ; 

Come,  for  the  night  is  falling  ! 
Rest!  with  the  Evening  Star." 


428  Nacoochee  and  its  Surroundings. 

Once  more  I  find  myself  in  the  bosom  of  this 
"  Child  of  the  Chattahoochee,"  and  after  the  cares, 
toils  and  perplexities  of  a  winter's  business  campaign, 
my  quiet  mountain  home  is  indeed  to  me,  Rest. 

To  be  comfortable  here,  one  must  come  with  bag 
and  baggage,  carriage  and  horses,  cook  and  supplies. 
The  travel  of  two  hundred  and  fifty  miles  by  rail,  and 
seventy  miles  over  rough  roads,  sharpens  the  appetite, 
if  it  does  not  improve  the  temper.  But  what  will  not 
a  man  or  woman  endure  for  a  change?  Human 
nature  is  the  same  now,  that  it  was  when  Adam  and 
Eve  grew  tired  of  looking  at  the  same  perpetual 
blooming  flowers  in  their  Eden.  Beautiful,  plentiful 
and  peaceful  as  was  their  home,  they  were  not  satis- 
fied. They  were  doubtless  both  happier  when  driven 
from  Paradise,  even  with  the  heavy  penalties  placed 
upon  them,  than  they  would  have  been  wandering 
about  for  ages,  looking  upon  the  same  objects,  with 
that  tree  of  forbidden  fruit  ever  and  anon  in  their 
pathway ;  not  that  the  quality  was  superior  to  that 
which  grew  on  all  the  other  trees,  but  it  was  "forbid- 
den fruit,"  and,  therefore,  the  more  to  be  desired- 
Nature,  too,  is  ever  changing  ;  spring  comes  with  its 
buds  and  flowers,  summer  with  its  full  verdure,  and 
autumn  with  its  ripe  fruit  and  sear  leaf,  and  then 
dreary  winter  with  its  chilling  frosts  and  ice,  but  these 
changes  of  seasons,  fields  and  forests,  are  necessary 
both  for  health  and  happiness.  This  is  peculiarly  an 
age  of  change.  Even  the  child  quits  its  garden  of 
flowers,  and  luxuriant  city  home  for  the  rude  and 
almost  comfortless  mountain  cabin,  with  an  enthu- 


Nacooclice  and  its  Surroundings.  /^2g 

siasm  that  is  refreshing  to  witness ;  and  children  of 
a  larger  growth,  from  custom  and  habit  do  the  same 
thing. 

I  am  convinced  that  the  young  are  benefited,  men- 
tally and  physically,  by  a  change  from  the  city  to  the 
country.  The  most  conceited  are  those  who  are 
brought  up  from  childhood  to  manhood  within  the 
walls  of  a  populous  city.  They  know  next  to  nothing 
of  the  country,  its  people,  or  its  products,  and  look 
upon  the  outside  world  as  only  removed  a  few  steps 
from  barbarism. 

Not  many  days  since  a  party  left  Charleston  on  the 
night  train  for  Augusta.  Children  predominated,  and 
they  were  so  overjoyed  at  the  idea  of  getting  to  the 
country,  they  would  neither  sleep  themselves,  nor 
permit  their  neighbors  to  sleep. 

A  gentlemen  said  to  his  good  wife,  "  my  dear,  where 
did  these  children  get  their  restless,  nervous  temper- 
ament, and  red  heads  from.  I  am  sure  I  am  not  very 
nervous,  neither  is  my  head  particularly  red?"  She 
replied,  "  Oh  no,  not  red,  but  slightly  flesh-color, 
especially  on  the  crown."  Something  was  said  by 
way  of  retort  about  gray  hairs,  but  the  children  kept 
up  such  a  noise  it  was  difficult  to  hear. 

The  heavy  rains  for  the  past  month  have  well  nigh 
made  a  frog-pond  of  the  flat  country  lying  on  the  line 
of  railway.  The  myriads  of  frogs  kept  up  a  per- 
petual croaking,  such  as  can  only  be  heard  in  a  Caro- 
lina swamp. 

The  children  were  amused  at  the  almost  constant 
"  quack,  quack,  quacking,"  with  an  occasional  "  foo- 
dle-de-doe."     A  little  three  year  old  girl  inquired  of 


430  Nacoocliee  and  its  Surroundings. 

her  brother  frequently  what  it  was  that  made  such 
strange  noises,  and  was  told  it  was  "  bull-frogs."  By 
morning,  her  curiosity  to  see  a  bull-frog  was  up  to 
fever-heat.  About  daylight  a  number  of  half  fed  pigs 
were  startled  by  the  whistle  of  the  engine.  Little 
Mattie  saw  them,  and  said,  "  Oh  Buddie  George,  look 
at  the  bull-frogs  !  do  look  at  the  bull-frogs  !  I  never 
saw  a  bull-frog  before  in  all  my  life."  At  the  next 
depot  a  herd  of  goats  made  their  appearence,  and 
Mattie  wanted  to  know  if  they  also  were  bull-frogs, 
being  informed  they  were  "billy-goats,"  "billy-goats, 
with  wickers  like  papa's,"  was  her  innocent  reply. 
Near  by  was  a  flock  of  sheep,  these  were  as  new  to 
Mattie  as  the  pigs  and  goats.  Being  told  they  were 
sheep,  "  Oh  pretty  &7/j/-sheep,"  said  she.  Now  if 
little  Mattie  had  remained  in  the  city  until  she  was 
ten  times  three,  her  knowledge  of  pigs  and  goats 
would  not  have  improved  much. 

It  does  children  good  to  go  into  the  country  and 
rough  it,  and  learn  about  pigs,  goats  and  the  like ; 
and  if  they  get  their  dainty  fingers  soiled  and  delicate 
complexions  sunburnt,  and  now  and  then  come  in 
contact  with  "  rough  country  people,"  it  won't  injure 
them,  morally,  mentally,  or  physically.  On  the  con- 
trary their  constitutions  will  be  strengthened,  and 
their  wits  sharpened.  They  can  learn  quite  as  much 
from  the  "  country  cracker,"  as  the  country  child 
can  from  the  city  bonne,  who  does  not  know  the 
difference  between  a  frog  and  a  pig. 

We  reached  Madison,  Saturday  evening,  and  spent 
a  quiet  Sabbath  with  the  loved  ones  there.  Madison 
is  the  old  home  of  Mrs.  W.,   and  of  course,  is  very 


Nacoochee  and  its  Surroundings.  431 

dear  to  her.  It  is  surrounded  by  a  beautiful  and 
fertile  country,  and  is  attracting  the  attention  of  the 
irrepressible  Yankee,  many  of  whom  have  purchased 
extensive  tracts  of  land,  and  are  making  capital  farmers 
and  good  citizens.  Would  that  these  thrifty  people 
were  scattered  from  the  sea-board  to  the  mountain 
top.  The  country  would  not  then  be  as  it  now  is, 
threatened  with  famine.  So  long  as  our  planters  have 
cotton  on  the  brain,  and  raise  it  to  the  exclusion  of 
food,  we  may  expect  to  look  abroad  for  nearly  every- 
thing we  eat,  drink  and  wear. 

I  brought  with  me,  from  Charleston,  a  large  pair  of 
mules,  to  use  in  the  mountains.  Their  size  and  con- 
dition attracted  the  attention  of  a  farmer  on  the  road 
side,  and  he  said,  "  Mister,  where  did  that  stock  come 
from?"  I  replied,  "they  are  Piatt's  dray  colts  from 
Charleston."  "And  what  do  you  feed  them  on?" 
"  Taylor's  Carolina  Fertilizer."  His  characteristic 
comment  was,  "by  jingoes,  I  must  have  a  few  tons 
for  my  cotton."  There  it  is  again,  cotton,  cotton — 
poor  mules,  no  corn,  no  bacon. 

We  spent  a  night  in  the  pleasant  and  growing  town 
of  Athens.  I  looked  upon  old  Wall  street  with  more 
than  ordinary  interest,  as  thirty  years  ago  I  was  a 
merchant  in  embryo  of  Athens.  In  Wall  street 
however,  we  did  not  deal  in  fancy  stocks,  but  drove 
an  honest  trade  in  exchanging  sugar  and  molasses, 
for  eggs,  chickens  and  butter !  What  toils  and  strug- 
gles some  of  us  have  undergone  since  that  day,  and 
what  a  blessing  it  is  that  we  are  .permitted  to  take 
only  a  retrospective  view  of  life.     If  I  had  been  per- 


432  Nacoochee  and  its  Surroundings. 

mitted  thirty  years  ago  to  know  what  was  necessary 
to  secure  even  moderate  success,  or  could  have  had 
the'-  labors,  trials  and  cares  of  those  thirty  years 
heaped  up  before  me,  I  am  quite  sure  I  should  not 
have  ventured  over  that  rugged  commercial  mountain, 
but  would  have  returned  to  my  quiet  Nacoochee 
home  and  been  content  with  the  occupation  of  an 
honest  farmer. 

Life  is  but  a  struggle  at  best ;  but  when  we  reach 
our  journey's  end,  whether  that  journey  has  been 
rough  or  smooth,  if  we  can  look  back  on  a  life  well 
spent,  it  matters  not  whether  we  count  our  wealth  by 
the  millions  or  hundreds.  We  bring  but  little  into 
this  world,  and  carry  less  with  us  when  we  leave  it. 
After  all,  the  man  who  is  diligent,  whatever  his  voca- 
tion may  be,  is  far  happier  than  he  who  spends  his 
time  in  ease  and  indolence.  "  Six  days  shalt  thou 
labor,"  is  one  of  the  immutable  laws  of  the  Great 
Teacher,  and  he  who  attempts  to  evade  it  pays  the 
penalty.  If  you  desire  wealth,  or  the  comforts  of 
life,  begin  to  save  when  you  are  young.  If  your  in- 
come is  ever  so  small,  strive  to  lay  up  a  little  every 
year.  By  this  course  you  will  secure  an  indepen- 
dence and  a  comfortable  home. 

When  I  resided  in  Athens,  the  town  boasted  of 
only  a  few  retail  stores ;  now  they  have  large  blocks 
of  substantial  brick  buildings  that  would  do  credit  to 
Charleston  or  Savannah. 

Mrs.  W.'s  assistant  housekeeper  was  buying  a  few 
articles  for  our  mountain  home,  assisted  by  our 
Charleston  cook,  who  had  been  accustomed  to  stoves 


Nacoochee  and  its  Surroundings.  433 

and  Philadelphia  coal.  He  said,  "  Miss  Mattie,  please 
mam,  git  a  shovel  to  put  coal  on  de  stove  !"  When 
Sempy  arrived  in  the  valley,  he  was  nonplussed  to 
find  that  we  had  neither  stove,  kitchen  nor  coal.  My 
energetic  nephew  had  a  kitchen  put  up  in  about  a 
day,  and  Sempy  gets  his  "  coal  "  from  the  dense  for- 
est which  surrounds  us.  Our  mansion  is  a  very 
modest  affair;  but  as  I  have  gone  to  work  in  earnest, 
there  is  a  reasonable  prospect  that,  one  of  these  days, 
we  shall  be  comfortable. 

Nature  has  done  her  work  here  with  a  lavish  hand — 
I  now  propose  to  see  what  art  can  do.  We  have 
already  conveyed  through  pipes  the  gushing  cold 
stream  from  Lynch's  Mountain,  and  have  a  perpetual 
fountain  sounding  in  our  ears  day  and  night.  The 
stream  of  water  can  be  carried  through  the  house, 
and  although  brought  a  considerable  distance,  is  as 
cold  as  it  is  comfortable  to  drink. 

The  butter,  when  taken  from  the  spring  house,  is  as 
firm  as  if  packed  on  ice. 

In  my  next  I  propose  to  tell  you  of  three  remarka- 
ble events,  happening  almost  simultaneously  in  "  Na- 
coochee and  its  surroundings,"  viz  :  The  arrival  of  a 
circus,  a  live  Bishop,  and  last  though  not  least,  the 
fall  of  a  water  spout. 

Ever  yours, 

G.  W.  W. 

Nacoochee  Valley,  June,  1870. 


55 


LETTER    FIVE 


Nearly  half  a  century  ago  my  father,  Major  Ed- 
ward Williams,  visited  upper  Georgia,  in  search  of 
rich  lands,  good  water,  pure  air  and  fine  mountain 
scenery.  All  these  he  found  in  this  valley,  which 
was  carved  by  an  inland  sea  out  of  the  wildest  moun- 
tain scene. 

At  that  early  day  few  whites  had  ventured  into 
these  dense  forests  of  Indian  hunting  grounds.  Na- 
coochee  Valley  was  at  that  period  pretty  much  in  its 
primitive  state  ;  cane-brakes,  rhododendrons,  azalias 
and  kalmias  grew  in  their  native  luxuriance. 

The  red  man  was  monarch  of  these  fertile  valleys 
and  lofty  mountains. 

Nacoochee  was  the  chief  town  of  the  Cherokee  na- 
tion, and  at  one  time  it  was  the  centre  of  ancient 
civilization ;  here  the  Cherokees  or  some  other  war- 
like race  had  surrounded  themselves  with  strong 
walls  and  long  lines  of  fortifications  extending  through 
the  valley  to  the  natural  fortifications,  the  mountains  ; 
with  here  and  there  huge  mounds  thrown  up  and  the 
tops  of  high  hills  levelled  to  strengthen  their  military 
defences,  the  earth  being  so  arranged  as  to  make  the 
approach  of  the  foe  who  dared  enter  their  territory 
both  dangerous  and  difficult.  It  required  only  a 
small  force  of  brave  warriors  to  defend  their  beautiful 
homes  against  an  attack  of  the  enemy.     When  or  by 


NacoocJiee  mid  its  Surroundings.  435 

whom  these  mounds,  terraces,  and  military  works 
were  constructed,  has  been,  and  perhaps  will  ever  re- 
main, a  mystery. 

It  is  very  certain  that  this  region  was  settled  by  a 
race  in  civilization  far  in  advance  of  the  Cherokees,  as 
they  were  unable  to  give  any  account,  even  by  tradi- 
tion, of  the  numerous  fortifications  and  tumuli  which 
were  found  here. 

The  strongest  fortifications  lie  between  the  Chatta- 
hoochee and  Sautee,  in  the  eastern  portion  of  the  val- 
ley, not  far  from  the  point  where  Sautee  enters  the 
Chattahoochee. 

As  a  means  of  defence,  the  situation  was  well 
chosen.  The  adjacent  heights  are  naturally  so  formed 
and  disposed,  as,  with  but  little  expense  of  military 
architecture,  to  be  rendered  almost  impregnable. 
Many  Indian  relics  have  been  found  here.  In  1834, 
the  miners,  while  searching  for  gold,  disinterred  a 
subterranean  village,  numbering  some  forty  houses, 
which  had  been  buried,  judging  from  the  forest  trees 
which  covered  the  city  of  the  dead,  a  century  or 
more. 

The  logs  were  hewn  and  notched  as  at  the  present 
day  ;  warlike  instruments  were  found  in  the  buildings. 

A  discovery  was  recently  made  in  Nacoochee  Val- 
ley, on  the  farm  of  Captain  Nichols,  that  interested 
me  very  much,  and  which  must  interest  every  lover 
of  antiquity.  A  ploughshare  struck  a  hard  substance 
near  the  base  of  an  Indian  mound ;  the  ploughman, 
while  attempting  to  remove  it,  ascertained  that  it 
formed  a  portion  of  a  regularly  walled  sepulchre,  the 


436  Nacoochee  and  its  Surroundings. 

bottom  being  paved  with  stones.  The  tomb  con- 
tained many  skeletons ;  in  one  of  the  recesses  was 
found  that  of  a  giant,  or  of  a  man  much  larger  than 
the  present  race  of  Indians. 

In  the  sepulchre  were  also  immense  conch  shells, 
pipes,  tomahawks,  and  many  curious  pieces  of  work- 
manship ;  but  the  most  remarkable  relic  was  a  piece 
of  inwrought  copper. 

As  the  natives  were  ignorant  of  the  art  of  working 
in  copper,  the  question  naturally  arises  at  what  period 
these  huge  men,  skilled  in  art,  lived.  The  tomb  itself 
showed  that  the  builders  understood  the  use  of  tools. 

I  am  now  tunnelling  the  mound  near  my  residence, 
on  which  the  beautiful  Indian  girl,  "  Nacoochee,"  and 
her  lover,  Sautee,  were  buried.  The  mound  is  situated 
on  the  Sautee,  near  its  junction  with  the  Chattahoo- 
chee. 

In  the  grave  was  found  a  pipe  of  peace,  with  stems 
to  enable  seven  chiefs,  after  they  had  ended  their 
butcheries,  to  assemble  around  the  council  chamber 
and  smoke  out  of  the  same  bowl.  Would  that  our 
Christian  chiefs  had  occupied  a  portion  of  their 
time  in  smoking  the  pipe  of  peace,  instead  of  deso- 
lating our  country  in  a  horrid  civil  war. 

A  solitary  pine  marks  the  grave  of  the  Queen  of 
the  Valley,  and  her  lover,  Sautee,  the  gallant  Choctaw 
Chief.  A  substantial  observatory  ornaments  the  tragi- 
cal tomb.  From  it  you  have  a  fine  view  of  the  Valley 
of  Nacoochee  and  Sautee,  proud  old  Yonah,  the  Blue 
Ridge  and  Trail  Mountains,  the  latter  being  the  king 
of  the  Allep;hanies. 


Nacoochce  and  its  Surroundings.  437 

At  many  points  in  the  valley  are  monuments  de- 
noting the  power  and  industry  of  the  ancient  inhabi- 
tants of  this  country  and  the  work  of  a  nation  whose 
period  long  preceded  that  of  the  discovery  of  the 
Continent  of  America  by  Columbus. 

As  you  approach  Nacoochee  from  Clarksville,  you 
have  a  splendid  landscape  view,  infinitely  varied  and 
almost  without  bound,  thought  by  some  who  have 
seen  much  of  the  old  and  new  world  to  be  unsur- 
passed, both  for  its  beauty,  softness  and  sublimity. 

Before  you  nestles  in  quiet  repose  Nacoochee,  the 
"  Child  of  the  Chattahoochee."  For  nearly  five  miles 
over  a  rich  level  plain,  bordered  by  the  finest  forests 
in  America,  you  see,  without  an  intervening  object  to 
obstruct  the  view,  broad,  luxuriant  fields  of  Indian 
corn  and  sweet  meadows.  Beyond  is  the  long  range 
of  the  Alleghany  Mountains,  towering  one  above 
another  until  their  dizzy  peaks  are  hid  in  the  skies. 
To  the  left  is  proud  Yonah,  and  to  the  right  Lynch's 
Mountain.  Those  sparkling  waters  that  you  see  dash- 
ing down  the  sides  of  the  Blue  Ridge,  are  the  Falls 
of  Minnie  Haha.     (Laughing  water.) 

The  valleys  of  Nacoochee  and  Sautee  bear  strong 
evidences  of  having  been  for  ages  one  vast  lake,  shut 
in  by  the  mountains  and  high  hills. 

Just  below  the  junction  of  the  Sautee  with  the 
Chattahoochee,  the  waters  broke  through  the  hills, 
draining  this  great  lake,  whose  fretful  waters  had 
carved  out  of  these  mountains  the  lovely  valleys  of 
Nacoochee  and  Sautee.  The  lake  must  have  been  in 
length,  running  from  East  to  West,  some  ten  miles  ; 
and   in   width,  including  the  valley  of  Sautee,  seven 


438  Nacoochee  and  its  Surroundings. 

miles.  It  was  irregular,  as  a  portion  of  it  was  shut 
in  by  precipitous  mountains  to  a  few  yards  in  width- 

At  inconsiderable  cost,  Lake  Nacoochee  can  be  re- 
produced by  throwing  a  dam  across  the  Chattahoo- 
chee, where  the  waters  of  the  lake  first  broke  through 
the  hills.  It  is  believed  by  irrigating  the  valley  it 
can  be  made  as  rich  as  the  banks  of  the  Nile.  The 
proprietors  of  Nacoochee  contemplate  making  the 
experiment.  It  will,  at  least,  prevent  the  lands  from 
washing  by  freshets,  and  cover  the  meadows  with  a 
sediment  from  the  rich  coves  of  the  surrounding  hills. 

Nature  has  done  much,  very  much  for  Northeastern 
Georgia,  but  what  shall  I  say  of  the  poor  laboring 
classes  in  these  mountain  regions  ? 

It  is  to  be  regretted  that  they  are,  generally,  sadly 
deficient  in  energy,  enterprise,  skill  and  activity. 
Many  of  them  live  in  miserable  huts,  filled  with 
ragged,  half-fed  children,  without  the  means  of  edu- 
cation. 

I  am  now  speaking  of  the  poorer  classes,  who  live 
on  rented  lands.  Of  course,  there  are  to  be  found 
here  men  and  women  of  intelligence,  of  energy  and 
refinement.  Much,  very  much,  can  be  done  for  the 
bone  and  sinew  of  the  country ;  they  are  not  afraid 
to  work,  if  they  only  knew  how  to  go  about  it.  We 
already  have  nearly  a  hundred  men,  boys  and  girls 
employed ;  and  I  say  to  those  who  are  willing  to 
work,  that  we  will  give  them  employment ;  but  I  have 
not  room  for  a  drone  in  my  Nacoochee  hive. 

A  few  days  since  I  was  engaged  in  trimming  trees 
by  the  road  side.  My  appearance  did  not  indicate 
that  of  a  city  gentleman  of  "  elegant  leisure." 


Nacoochee  and  its  Surroiindings.  439 

Some  stock  drovers  were  passing  through  the 
valley.  One  of  them  enquired  of  me  if  "  Mr. 
George  Williams  lived  in  that  house  on  the  hill." 
And  also  wanted  to  know  if  I  was  acquainted  with 
him. 

On  hearing  that  I  was  in  "  Mr.  W's.  employ,"  he 
wanted  to  know  what  wages  I  received.  I  informed 
him  that  I  had  lived  with  Mr.  Williams  from  my 
earliest  recollection,  and  further,  that  he  worked  me 
very  hard,  and  only  gave  me  my  food  and  clothes.  The 
man  cast  upon  me  a  look  of  pity,  and  said  in  an 
indignant  manner,  "  George  Williams  works  you  hard, 
and  only  gives  you  your  board  and  clothes  ?  A 
stingy  old  wretch ;  I  wouldn't  live  with  him  another 
day  ! "  Cracking  his  whip,  he  screamed  at  his  cattle 
louder  than  ever,  leaving  me  to  reflect  upon  my  sad 
fate  in  having  such  a  hard  master.  I  came  to  the 
conclusion,  as  my  pay  was  so  small  and  my  term  of 
service  was  for  life,  I  would  not  in  the  future  work  so 
hard. 

I  do  not  know  when  I  have  been  more  occupied 
than  during  the  present  summer,  while  superintending 
the  untutored  labor  I  find  here. 

But  hard  as  I  have  worked  from  my  youth  up,  yet, 
I  have  been  far  happier  than  if  I  had  spent  a  life  of 
ease  and  indolence. 

Solomon,  the  wise  man,  says :  "  Whatsoever  thy 
hand  findeth  to  do,  do  it  with  all  thy  might." 

I  am  glad  to  say  that  among  all  the  laborers,  I  have 
not  seen  a  man  under  the  influence  of  liquor.  This 
speaks  well  for  these  honest-hearted  people. 


44-0  Nacoochee  and  its  Surroundings. 

Wages  are  low  here  and  living  high.  Men  get 
seventy-five  cents  per  day  ;  women,  fifty  cents  ;  boys 
and  girls,  twenty-five  cents,  and  board  themselves. 
They  come  into  Nacoochee  from  ten  to  twenty  miles 
around  seeking  employment.  Miss  J.,  of  Charleston, 
will  be  here  in  a  few  days  to  open  the  "  Nacoochee 
Seminary."  Free  schools  must  be  established  for  the 
poor  children.  We  greatly  need  railroad  facilities 
and  manufactories.  There  is  not  a  cotton  factory 
from  Athens  to  the  Blue  Ridge.  These  when  built 
will  put  new  life  and  energy  into  the  "  Rip  Van 
Winkles." 

One  mail  a  week,  won't  do  for  a  civilized  people.  I 
have  no  doubt  in  a  few  years  we  shall  hear  the  whistle 
of  the  steam  horse  near  my  mountain  home.  The 
Air  Line  from  Atlanta  will  soon  reach  Gainesville, 
thirty  miles  distant. 

Since  Nacoochee  .was  a  little  innocent  girl  play- 
ing in  the  infant  waters  of  the  Chattahoochee,  not 
a  Bishop  had  visited  this  portion  of  Georgia.  No 
wonder,  then,  that  this  quiet  people  was  startled  when 
it  was  announced,  almost  simultaneously,  that  there 
was  to  be  exhibited  in  this  region,  a  circus  and  a  live 
Bishop.  A  few  of  the  oldest  inhabitants  had  seen  in 
Nacoochee  a  circus,  but  none  had  looked  upon  a 
Methodist  Bishop. 

I  did  intend  giving  an  account  of  their  arrival  and 
mishaps  ;  but  I  fear  I  have  already  tried  your  patience 
and  that  of  your  readers. 

For  weeks  little  else  was  talked  of,  or  dreamed  of, 
but  the  Bishop  and  circus. 


Nacoochee  and  its  Surroundings.  441 

A  little  girl  said  to  her  mother,  "  Mammy  what  is  a 
Bishop?"  "A  big  man,  my  child,  a  big  man,"  was 
the  mother's  reply.  "  Mammy,  is  he  as  big  as  a 
meeting  house?" 

Johnny  Smith  wanted  to  know  of  his  papa  what  a 
circus  was,  Mr.  Smith  piously  informed  his  son  that 
it  was  the  "  devil  on  horseback,  wolves  in  petticoats." 

Johnny  preferred  seeing  the  "  big  man." 

More  anon,  G.  W.  W. 

Nacoochee  Valley,  August,  1870. 


LETTE'R   SIX 


One  of  the  greatest  works  of  Nature  in  sight  of 
Nacoochee  is  Tray,  or  Trail  Mountain.  This  moun- 
tain is  peculiarly  interesting  to  me,  as  it  was  in  its 
deep  forests  that  my  father,  at  the  advanced  age  of 
three  score  and  ten,  established  a  cheese  dairy.  This 
mountain  and  dairy  is  so  cleverly  described  by  Charles 
Lanman,  Esq.,  in  one  of  his  "  Letters  from  the  Alle- 
ghany's," that  I  append  it. 

G.  W.  W. 

Nacoochee,  September,  1870. 


Trail  Mountain,  Georgia,  May,  1848. 
I  now  write  from  near  the  summit  of  the  highest 
mountain  in  Georgia.      I  obtained   my  first  view  of 
this  peak  while  in  the  village  of  Clarksville,  and  it 
5G 


442  Nacoochee  and  its  Surroundings. 

presented  such  a  commanding  appearance,  that  I  re- 
solved to  surmount  it,  on  my  way  to  the  North, 
although  my  experience  has  proven  that  climbing 
high  mountains  is  always  more  laborious  than  profit- 
able. I  came  here  on  the  back  of  a  mule,  and  my 
guide  and  companion  on  the  occasion  was  the  princi- 
pal proprietor  of  Nacoochee  Valley,  Major  Edward 
Williams.  While  ascending  the  mountain,  which 
occupied  about  seven  hours,  (from  his  residence,)  the 
venerable  gentleman  expatiated  at  considerable  length 
on  the  superb  scenery  to  be  witnessed  from  its  sum- 
mit, and  then  informed  me  that  he  had  just  established 
a  dairy  on  the  mountain,  which,  it  was  easy  to  see, 
had  become  his  hobby.  He  described  the  "  ranges  " 
of  the  mountains  as  affording  an  abundance  of  the 
sweetest  food  for  cattle,  and  said  that  he  had  already 
sent  to  his  dairy  somewhere  between  fifty  and  eighty 
cows,  and  was  intending  soon  to  increase  the  number 
to  one  hundred.  He  told  me  that  his  dairyman  was 
an  excellent  young  man  from  Vermont,  named  Joseph 
E.  Hubbard,  to  whom  he  was  indebted  for  the  original 
idea  of  establishing  the  dairy.  While  journeying 
through  this  region,  the  young  man  chanced  to  stop 
at  the  Major's  house,  and  though  they  were  perfect 
strangers,  they  conversed  upon  matters  connected 
with  farming,  and  soon  became  acquainted ;  and  the 
stranger  having  made  known  the  fact  that  he  knew 
how  to  make  butter  and  cheese,  a  bargain  was  struck, 
which  has  resulted  in  the  establishment  already  men- 
tioned. The  Williams  dairy  is  said  to  be  the  only 
one  in  the  entire  State  of  Georgia,  and  it  is  worthy  of 


Nacoochee  and  its  Surroundings.  443 

remark,  in  this  connection,  that  Major  Williams  (as 
well  as  his  dairyman)  is  a  native  of  New  England. 
He  has  been  an  exile  from  Yankee  land  for  upwards 
of  fifty  years,  and,  though  nearly  seventy  years  of 
age,  it  appears  that  his  natural  spirit  of  enterprise  re- 
mains in  full  vigor. 

Trail  Mountain  was  so  named  by  the  Cherokees, 
from  the  fact  that  they  once  had  a  number  of  trails 
leading  to  the  summit,  to  which  point  they  were  in 
the  habit  of  ascending  for  the  purpose  of  discovering 
the  camp-fires  of  their  enemies  during  the  existence 
of  hostilities.  It  is  the  king  of  the  Blue  Ridge,  and 
reported  to  be  five  thousand  feet  above  the  waters  of 
the  surrounding  country,  and  perhaps  six  thousand 
feet  above  the  level  of  the  ocean.  A  carpet  of  green 
grass  and  weeds  extends  to  the  very  top,  and  as  the 
trees  are  small,  as  well  as  "  few  and  far  between,"  the 
lover  of  extensive  scenery  has  a  fine  opportunity  of 
gratifying  his  taste.  I  witnessed  a  sunset  from  this 
great  watch-tower  of  the  South,  and  I  know  not  that 
I  was  ever  before  more  deeply  impressed  with  the 
grandeur  of  a  landscape  scene.  The  horizon  formed 
an  unbroken  circle,  but  I  could  distinctly  see  that  in 
one  direction  alone  (across  South  Carolina  and  part 
of  Georgia)  extended  a  comparatively  level  country, 
while  the  remaining  three-quarters  of  the  space 
around  me  appeared  to  be  a  wilderness  of  mountains. 
The  grandest  display  was  towards  the  north,  and  here 
it  seemed  to  me  that  I  could  count  at  least  twenty 
distinct  ranges,  fading  away  to  the  sky,  until  the 
more  remote  range  melted  into  a  monotonous  line. 


444  Nacooclice  and  its  Surroundings. 

No  cities  or  towns  came  within  the  limit  of  my  vision; 
no,  nor  even  an  occasional  wreath  of  smoke,  to  re- 
mind me  that  human  hearts  were  beating  in  the  un- 
numbered valleys.  A  crimson  hue  covered  the  sky, 
but  it  was  without  a  cloud  to  cheer  the  prospect,  and 
the  solemn  shadow  which  rested  upon  the  mountains 
was  too  deep  to  partake  of  a  single  hue  from  the 
departing  sun.  Grandeur  and  gloom,  like  twin  spirits, 
seemed  to  have  subdued  the  world,  causing  the  pulse 
of  nature  to  cease  its  accustomed  throb.  "  At  one 
stride  came  the  dark,"  and,  as  there  was  no  moon, 
I  retreated  from  the  peak  with  pleasure,  and  sought 
the  rude  cabin,  where  I  was  to  spend  the  night. 
While  doing  this,  the  distant  howl  of  a  wolf  came  to 
my  ear,  borne  upward  on  the  quiet  air  from  one  of 
the  deep  ravines  leading  to  the  base  of  the  mountain. 

As  I  was  the  guest  of  my  friends,  Williams  and 
Hubbard,  I  wiled  away  the  evening  in  their  society, 
asking  and  answering  a  thousand  questions.  Among 
the  matters  touched  upon  in  our  conversation,  was  a 
certain  mysterious  "  water-spout,"  of  which  I  had 
heard  a  great  deal  among  the  people  in  my  journey- 
ing, and  which  was  said  to  have  fallen  upon  Trail 
Mountain.  I  again  inquired  into  the  particulars,  and 
Major  Williams  replied  as  follows : 

"  This  water-spout  story  has  always  been  a  great 
mystery  to  me.  The  circumstance  occurred  several 
years  ago.  A  number  of  hunters  were  spending  the 
night  in  the  very  ravine  where  this  shanty  now 
stands,  when,  about  midnight,  they  heard  a  tre- 
mendous  roaring  in  the  air,  and  a  large  torrent  of 


NacoocJicc  and  its  Surroundings.  445 

water  fell  upon  their  camp,  and  swept  it,  with  all  its 
effects  and  inmates,  about  a  dozen  yards  from  the 
spot  where  they  had  planted  their  poles.  One  of 
them  was  severely  injured  on  the  head  by  the  water, 
and  all  of  them  completely  drenched.  They  were,  of 
course,  much  alarmed  at  the  event,  and  concluded 
that  a  spring  farther  up  the  mountain  had  probably 
broken  away ;  but  when  morning  came,  they  could 
find  no  evidences  of  a  spring,  and  everywhere  above 
their  camping-place  the  ground  was  perfectly  dry, 
while  on  the  lower  side  it  was  completely  saturated. 
They  were  now  perplexed  to  a  marvellous  degree, 
and  returned  to  the  lower  country  impressed  with 
the  idea  that  a  waterspout  had  burst  over  their 
heads." 

But  to  return  to  the  dairy,  which  is  unquestionably 
the  chief  attraction  (though  far  from  being  a  romantic 
one)  connected  with  Trail  Mountain.  Heretofore,  a 
cheese  establishment  has  been  associated  in  my  mind 
with  broad  meadow  lands,  spacious  and  well-furnished 
out-houses,  and  a  convenient  market.  But  here  we 
have  a  dairy  on  the  top  of  a  mountain,  distant  from 
the  first  farm-house  some  seven  miles,  and  inacces- 
sible by  any  conveyance  but  that  of  a  mule  or  well- 
trained  horse.  The  bells  of  more  than  half  a  hundred 
cows  are  echoing  along  the  mountain  side ;  and, 
instead  of  clover,  they  are  feeding  upon  the  luxuriant 
weed  of  the  wilderness ;  instead  of  cool  cellars,  we 
have  here  a  hundred  tin  pans  arranged  upon  tables 
in  a  log  cabin,  into  which  a  cool  spring  pours  its  re- 
freshing  treasure ;    instead  of  a  tidy  and   matronly 


446  Nacoochee  and  its  Sttrronndings. 

housewife  to  superintend  the  turning  of  the  curd,  we 
have  an  enterprising  young  Yankee,  a  veritable  Green 
Mountain  boy ;  and  instead  of  pretty  milkmaids,  the 
inferiors  of  this  establishment  are  huge  negroes,  and 
all  of  the  masculine  gender.  And  this  is  the  estab- 
lishment which  supplies  the  people  of  Georgia  with 
cheese,  and  the  material  out  of  which  the  scientific 
caterer  manufactures  the  palatable  Welsh  Rabbit. 


LETTER   SEVEN 


TALLULAH  AND  TOCCOA  FALLS. 


One  of  the  grandest  sights  of  Nacoochee  and  its 
surroundings,  is  the  Falls  of  Tallulah. 

It  was  a  bright  morning  in  September,  when  a 
party  of  us  left  Nacoochee  in  search  of  this  nature's 
wonder.  A  few  hours  drive  through  hill  and  dale, 
over  rough  roads  and  dangerous  bridges,  and  we 
arrive  safely  in  hearing  of  this  mountain  cataract. 
We  alight,  and  partake  heartily  of  a  lunch.  Having 
gone  through  with  this  pleasant  part  of  the  duties  of 
the  day,  we  procure  a  guide,  and  are  off  to  gaze  upon 
Tallulah !  Thirty  long  years  have  come  and  gone 
since  I  first  looked  upon  this  world's  wonder. 


Nacoochee  and  its  Surroundings.  447 

Since  that  day  I  have  visited  the  most  noted  catar- 
acts in  Europe,  and  heard  the  thundering  waters  of 
Niagara ! 

In  mildness  and  majestic  beauty  of  scenery,  the 
Falls  of  Tallulah,  and  its  surroundings,  surpass  any- 
thing of  the  kind  that  I  have  seen  in  the  Old  or 
New  World. 

The  volume  of  water  at  Niagara  Falls,  of  course, 
is  much  greater  than  that  of  all  others.  Terrora, 
the  "  Terrible,"  is  a  small  stream  which  has  been  for 
ages  cutting  its  way  through  the  Blue  Ridge. 

Its  fretful  waters  made  a  chasm  in  the  mountains 
miles  in  length,  and,  in  some  places,  over  a  thousand 
feet  in  depth. 

Here  you  find  gigantic  cliffs  of  granite,  its  huge 
masses  piled  upon  each  other  in  the  wildest  confu- 
sion. Along  the  winding,  rugged  beds  of  this  deep 
abyss,  the  swift  Terrora  rushes,  and  foams  as  it  lashes 
its  waters  in  its  onward  and  downward  course.  Ever 
and  anon  it  dashes  over  protruding  rocks  and  steep 
precipices.  And  now  we  stop  at  the  Pulpit,  a  huge 
cliff,  which  projects  over  the  chasm.  Here  you  have 
a  magnificent  view  of  several  of  the  falls. 

From  the  Pulpit  view,  Terrora  seems  to  be  gushing 
from  the  centre  of  the  mountain.  The  water  leaps 
into  an  immense  basin  at  the  foot  of  the  precipice, 
where  it  circles  round  and  round  in  a  whirpool. 

This  place  is  called  Hawthorn's  Pool,  in  memory 
of  the  lamented  Presbyterian  minister,  who  lost  his 
life  in  attempting  to  bathe  in  those  turbulent  waters. 

A  rugged  stairway  is   cut  out  of  the  side  of  the 


448  Nacoochee  and  its  Surroundings. 

cliff,  which  leads  down  to  the  edge  of  the  falls.  Now 
you  are  encircled  by  towering  stone  walls  on  every 
side. 

I  do  not  know  which  is  the  most  to  be  admired,  the 
view  from  this  position,  or  where  you  stand  fifteen 
hundred  feet  above  and  look  down  upon  the  scene. 
There  are  five  perpendicular  falls  of  water,  from  fifty 
to  one  hundred  feet,  and  quite  a  number  of  smaller 
cataracts.  The  flow  of  waters,  with  their  perpetual 
roar  and  wildness  of  scenery,  render  Tallulah  an 
enchanting  spot.  The  surroundings  are  varied  and 
picturesque,  now  beautiful,  now  grand — Nature  is 
triumphant.  These  enchanting  scenes  have  always 
inspired  the  poet  and  the  artist. 

I  will  close  this  sketch  of  Tallulah,  by  inserting  a 
portion  of  a  beautiful  poem,  by  Georgia's  distin- 
guished poet,  Henry  R.  Jackson  : 

TALLULAH. 

But  hark  !  beneath  yon  hoary  precipice, 

The  rush  of  mightier  waters  as  they  pour 
In  foaming  torrents  through  the  dark  abyss 

Which  echoes  back  the  thunders  of  their  roar. 

Approach  the  frightful  gorge  !  and  gazing  o'er, 
What  mad  emotions  through  their  bosoms  thrill  \ 

Hast  ever  seen  so  dread  a  sight  before  ? 
Tallulah  !  by  that  name  we  hail  thee  still, 
And  own  that  thou  art  rightly  called  the  Terrible  ! 

In  vain  o'er  thee  shall  glow  with  wild  delight, 

The  painter's  eye,  and  voiceless  still  shall  be 
The  poet's  tongue,  who  from  this  giddy  height, 

Shall  kindle  in  thine  awful  minstrelsy  ! 


Nacooclice  and  its  Surroundings.  449 

Thou  art  too  mighty  in  thy  grandeur — we 
Too  weak  to  give  fit  utterance  to  the  soul ! 

Thy  billows  mock  us  with  their  tempest  glee, 
As  thundering  on,  while  countless  ages  roll, 
Thou  scornest  man's  applause  alike  with  man's  control. 

Yet  standing  here  where  mountain  eagles  soar, 

Among  these  toppling  crags,  to  plant  their  nest, 
I  catch  an  inspiration  from  thy  roar, 

Which  will  not  let  my  spirit  be  at  rest. 

I  cast  me  down  upon  the  massive  breast 
Of  this  huge  rock,  that  lifts  to  meet  the  blast, 

Far,  far  above  the  foam,  his  granite  crest, 
And  eager  thoughts  come  gathering  thick  and  fast, 
The  voices  of  the  future  blending  with  the  past ! 

I  gaze  across  the  yawning  gorge  and  seem 

Once  more  to  see  upon  yon  heights  that  rear 
Their  summits  up  to  catch  the  sunset  gleam, 

The  red  man  of  the  wilderness  appear, 

With  bounding  step,  and  bosom  broad  and  bare, 
And  painted  face  and  figure  lithe  and  tall, 

Wild  as  surrounding  nature ;   and  I  hear 
From  yonder  precipice  his  hoop  and  call, 
That  mingle  fiercely  with  the  roaring  water-fall ! 

But  lo  !  he  pauses,  for  he  sees  thee  now, 

Dread  cataract  ! — he  stands  entranced  ! — his  yell 

Is  hushed  ;  appalled  he  looks  where  far  below, 

Thy  waters  boil  with  a  tumultuous  swell. 

Thou  glorious  orator  of  Nature  !  well 
May  his  rude  bosom  own  the  majesty 

Of  thy  dread  eloquence;   he  hears  the  knell 
Of  human  things — he  bends  the  suppliant  knee, 
To  the  Great  Spirit  of  the  Terrible  in  thee. 

We  left  Tallulah,  feeling  that  our  time  was  much 
too  short  to  enjoy,  to  the  fullest  extent,  the  beauties 
of  nature  which  were  so  profusely  spread  around  us. 

57 


45  o  Nacoochee  and  its  Surroundings, 

We  could  have  lingered  for  days  amid  those  fairy 
scenes,  but  the  sun  was  fast  dropping  behind  old 
Yonah,  and  we  had  several  miles  to  ride  over  rough 
roads  before  we  could  procure  lodgings  for  the  night. 
It  was  quite  dark  when  we  reached  a  farm  house, 
some  six  miles  from  the  Falls.  Our  hostess,  Mrs.  A., 
does  not  keep  a  hotel,  but  accommodates  travellers 
to  the  best  of  her  ability.  Angels  could  do  no  more. 
Travellers  often  make  themselves,  and  all  around 
them,  very  uncomfortable  by  fault-finding.  In  many 
of  the  up-country  towns,  it  not  unfrequently  occurs 
that  the  hotel  register  has  not  a  new  name  entered 
for  days.  This  quiet  of  country  hotel  life  is  occa- 
sionally disturbed  by  the  arrival  of  a  dozen  or  more 
hungry  persons,  at  an  hour  when  the  chickens  and 
cook  have  retired  for  the  night.  If  the  table  is  not 
spread,  in  fifteen  minutes,  with  hot  biscuits,  hot  cof- 
fee, fried  chicken,  beefsteaks  and  the  like,  Mr.  Brown 
will  begin  a  tirade  of  abuse  against  country  landlords 
and  country  hotels.  Fortunately,  our  party  was  made 
up  of  genteel  people.  Among  the  boys  were  Masters 
Bob,  Henry  and  George ;  and  the  young  Misses  were 
represented  by  Mary,  Hattie  and  Amelia.  All  these 
juveniles  were  under  the  watchful  eye  of  their  ac- 
complished teacher,  Miss  J e,  of  Charleston.     Well 

bred  people  are  not  given  to  unnecessary  fault- 
finding. Our  party,  at  least,  had  no  occasion  for  it, 
as  in  due  course  of  time  a  bountiful  supper  was  pro- 
vided and  ample  justice  was  done  it.  We  found  our 
landlady  jovial  and  good  natured.  Ready  to  ask 
questions    as    she   was   to   answer.     Master    George 


Nacoochce  and  its  Surroundings.  45 1 

thought  every  body  knew  "  Pa,"  and  was  nonplussed 
when  the  old  lady  told  him  that  "  she  had  never 
heard  of  Geo.  W.  Williams,  of  Charleston." 

This  reminded  me  of  a  circumstance  which  hap- 
pened at  a  State  Fair,  held  in  Macon,  Ga.  At  that 
Fair  my  venerable  father  was  contending  for  agri- 
cultural premiums.  He  had  on  exhibition  some 
mammoth  ears  of  corn,  which  attracted  a  good  deal 
of  attention.  My  father  remarked  to  me  that  the 
people  about  Macon  were  "  very  ignorant ;"  said  he, 
"  They  asked  me  where  that  huge  corn  was  raised  ?" 
When  I  told  them  in  Nacoochee  Valley,  they  wanted 
to  know  "  what  State  that  Valley  was  in  ?" 

The  good  man  was  of  the  opinion  that  everybody 
ought  to  know  where  Nacoochee  Valley  was  located. 
It  is  well  for  all  of  us  to  travel  occasionally,  in  order 
to  learn  that  our  homes,  and  ourselves,  are  not  of  as 
much  importance  to  the  outside  world  as  we  had 
vainly  imagined. 

Before  closing  this  letter,  I  must  not  omit  to  state 
that  one  of  the  most  lovely  sights  of  Nacoochee  and 
its  Surroundings,  is  the  Cascade  of  Toccoa.  This 
beautiful  Fall  is  on  a  stream  of  the  same  name.  In 
perpendicular  height  it  surpasses  anything  to  be  found 
even  at  Niagara.  Toccoa  is  within  cannon  shot  of 
Tallulah.  These  Falls  form  beautiful  links  in  the 
chain  of  Northeastern  Georgia  scenery. 

I  will  close  this  communication  by  introducing  a 
poem  of  my  favorite  Georgia  poet,  H.  R.  J.,  Esq. 

G.  W.  W. 

Nacoochee,  September,  1870. 


452  Nacoochee  and  its  Surroundings. 

TOCCOA. 

Embosomed  in  the  primal  forest  shades, 

And  singing  gayly  through  the  day  and  night;— 
Dashing  thy  waters  into  myriad  braids 

Of  diamond  spray,  that  sparkles  down  the  height. 

And  changes  hue  beneath  the  shifting  light; — 
Laughing  away  the  hours  in  childlike  mirth, 

And  gently  dallying  with  the  ear  and  sight — 
Scarce  calls  thy  murmuring  voice  an  echo  forth, 
Toccoa  !  merriest  water-fall  of  all  the  earth  ! 

Toccoa  !  or  The  Beautiful !   this  name 

To  thee  was  given  by  tawny  Indian  girls, 
When,  with  the  Summer's  sultry  noon,  they  came 

To  bathe  their  bosoms  where  the  water  curls 

Around  the  mossy  rocks  in  countless  pearls  ; 
Or  when,  in  Autumn,  seeking  o'er  the  hill, 

From  which  thy  eddying  current  lightly  whirls, 
Brown  nuts,  their  baskets  of  light  reed  to  fill, 

They  loved  to  pause  and  gaze  upon  thy  beauties  still. 

Thou  hadst  been  holy  in  the  classic  land 

Of  ancient  Hellas  ;  smiling  spirits  deemed 
Of  birth  celestial,  by  thy  rocky  strand 

To  whisper  with  a  various  voice  had  seemed 

To  him  who  in  the  cadence  of  thy  music  dreamed ; 
The  steps  of  poets  had  been  printed  on 

Thy  sparkling  sand,  and  eager  eyes  had  beamed 
Above  thy  waters,  while  the  lay  was  spun, 
Which  made  thee  famous  for  all  time  like  Helicon  ! 

Here  shall  the  fevered  soul  of  him  who  roams 

Among  these  mountains — who  has  left  behind 
Cares,  troubles,  sufferings,  ceaseless  toil,  and  comes 

To  seek  refreshment  for  the  wearied  mind — 

In  thy  soft  music,  gentle  solace  find. 
Youth  seems  to  live  in  thee  ;    thy  happy  mood, 

The  fetters  of  the  spirit  shall  unbind  ; 
Joy,  dead  for  years,  again  shall  be  renewed, 
And  Hope  rebuild  her  bark  from  wrecks  at  random  strewed  ! 


LETTER    EIGHT. 


YONAH  MOUNTAIN. 


One  of  the  grandest  objects  in  sight  of  my  old  home 
in  Nacoochee  Valley,  is  Yonah  Mountain.  This 
stupendous  pile  of  granite  seems  to  be  a  huge  off- 
shoot of  the  Blue  Ridge.  Yonah,  is  associated  with 
the  earliest  recollections  of  my  life. 

This  guardian  of  the  valley  became  as  familiar  to 
me  as  the  face  of  my  much  loved  mother.  By  the 
time  I  reached  my  tenth  year,  I  was  in  the  habit  of 
climbing,  during  the  summer  months,  to  its  giddy 
heights,  frequently  two  and  three  times  a  week,  and 
often  during  the  winter  months,  when  Yonah  was 
imbedded  in  snow,  I  have  chased  the  fox  into  its  deep 
caverns.  The  grand  views  from  the  summit  of  this 
giant  bear,  were  as  well  known  to  me  as  the  scenes  by 
the  pathway  to  our  log-cabin  school-house.  This 
lofty  mountain  was  ever  the  admiration  of  each  mem- 
ber of  our  household.  My  father,  in  building,  selected 
a  location  which  commanded  the  finest  view  of  this 
celebrated  mountain. 

Perhaps  it  may  be  considered  a  weakness,  but  I 
acknowledge  that  I  never  return  to  my  Nacoochee 
home  that  my  heart  does  not  beat  and  throb  the  faster 
whenever  I  come  in  sight  of  Yonah.     Let  me  wander 


454  Nacoocliee  and  its  Surroundings. 

where  ere  I  may,  when  I  return  to  the  home  of  my 
childhood,  this  old  familiar  friend,  which  can  be  seen 
at  a  great  distance,  is  ever  there  to  greet  me. 

I  know  at  its  foot  nestles,  in  quiet  repose,  the  "  sweet 
Vale  of  Nacoochee  ;"  and  in  the  bosom  of  this 
"  Tempe  of  the  South,"  sleep  my  parents  of  precious 
memory. 

In  July,  1834,  the  glorious  fourth  was  celebrated  on 
the  summit  of  Yonah.  A  liberty  pole  was  raised,  and 
the  Stars  and  Stripes  given  to  the  breeze. 

Mr.  Ingersoll,  Gen.  Rusk,  and  other  distinguished 
statesmen,  delivered  patriotic  speeches  on  that  occa- 
sion. 

A  few  years  later,  some  three  hundred  persons  from 
the  valleys  below  assembled  Christmas  day,  on  the 
highest  pinnacle  of  Yonah,  and  united  with  a  Methodist 
divine  in  celebrating  the  birth  of  Christ.  It  was  pro- 
bably the  first  sermon  on  this  heavenward-towering 
temple. 

A  multitude  of  voices  united  that  bright,  joyous 
December  day,  in  singing  : 

"  GOOD  TIDINGS." 

"  Good  tidings  !     Good  tidings  ! 

Ring  out,  O  Christmas  bells  ! 
The  old  familiar  music  still 

O'er  hill  and  lowland  swells  ; 
Go  twine  with  ivy  leaves  and  bay 

The  holly's  choral  jem, 
And  welcome,  Christian  hearts,  to-day, 

The  Babe  of  Bethlehem. 


Nacoochee  and  its  Surroundings.  455 

"  Good  tidings  !     Good  tidings  ! 

It  is  the  self-same  strain 
That  once  the  holy  angels  sang 

To  shepherds  on  the  plain  ; 
A  song  which  brings  the  weary  rest, 

And  comforts  those  that  mourn  ; 
The  ancient  anthem,  ever  blest — 

'  To  us  a  Child  is  born.' 

"  Good  tidings  !     Good  tidings  ! 

The  world  is  old  and  sad  ; 
We  need  the  blessed  Christmas-tide 

To  make  us  young  and  glad  ! 
To  darkened  eyes  who  saw  through  tears 

Their  earth-lights  pale  and  die, 
This  holy  radiance  appears — 

'  The  day-spring  from  on  high  ' 

"  Good  tidings  !     Good  tidings  ! 

O  meek  and  lowly  King  ! 
Teach  every  faithful  heart  this  day 

Thy  praise  aright  to  sing  ; 
Teach  us  to  do  Thy  deeds  of  love, 

Thy  precious  seed  to  sow  ; 
As  angels  work  for  Thee  above, 

So  let  us  work  below. 

"  Good  tidings  !     Good  tidings  ! 

The  music  shall  not  cease ; 
He  came  to  guide  our  wayward  feet 

Into  the  way  of  peace  ; 
Chime,  tuneful  bells,  loudly  ring 

To  hail  the  Christmas  morn  ; 
Awake  all  Christian  souls,  and  sing — 

'  To  us  a  child  is  born.'  " 

At  the  conclusion  of  these  religious  exercises,  this 
large  party  descended  the  mountain  by  various  Indian 


456  Nacoochee  and  its  Surroundings. 

trails,  many  separated  never  to  meet  again,  until  sum- 
moned by  the  trumpet  of  God  to  their  last  reckoning. 

Quite  a  party  once  spent  a  night  on  Yonah,  to  wit- 
ness a  sunrise  and  a  sunset  view  from  this  elevated 
position.  A  grand  sight  it  was.  How  scattered  is 
that  little  band  !  Some  are,  doubtless,  basking  in  the 
sunlight  of  a  holier  and  more  blissful  world,  while 
others  are  still  here,  but  have,  since  that  day,  passed 
through  great  trials  and  tribulations.  Some  are  laying 
up  treasures  above,  while  others  are  heaping  up  gold 
and  silver,  not  a  dollar  of  which  will  aid  in  securing 
their  passage  to  the  Celestial  City.  What  a  sad  feel- 
ing to  know  that  in  a  few  fleeting  years,  not  one  of 
that  once  happy  party  will  be  numbered  among  the 
living.  All,  all  will  be  realizing  the  joys  or  miseries 
of  eternity. 

The  following  beautiful  lines  were  written  on  the 
summit  of  Yonah,  in  1849,  by  D.  H.  Jacques,  Esq., 
Editor  of  The  Rural  Carolinian : 


Vain  were  the  thought  to  paint  the  scene 
Which,  gazing  from  this  height  serene, 
Seems  to  me  like  the  land  of  dreams, 
On  which  Edenic  radiance  streams. 
Thought  soars  above  expression's  reach, 
And  feeling  scorns  the  aid  of  speech  ; 
Too  proudly  high  the  mountains  rise, 
Too  blue — too  glorious  are  the  skies 
For  any  tribute  verse  of  mine, — ■ 
The  theme  trancends  and  shames  the  line. 

I  gaze  on  forests  spreading  wide 
The  fulness  of  their  verdant  tide, 


NacoocJice  and  its  Surroundings.  457 

On  mountains  piled  on  mountains  high, 
Far  up  against  the  glowing  sky, — 
Then  down,  where,  cradled  in  her  deeps, 
Nachoochee's  Vale  of  Beauty  sleeps  ! 
O  !  Valley  of  the  Evening  Star,* 
Though  I  have  wandered  near  and  far, 
No  lovelier  spot  has  blessed  my  eyes, 
Than  now  before  me  smiling  lies. 
Broad  are  thy  fields  of  waving  corn, 
And  sweet  thy  flowers  of  summer  born; 
While,  border'd  by  o'erhanging  trees, 
Through  blooming  haunts  of  birds  and  bees, 
With  dulcet  warblings  soft  and  low, 
Thy  Chattahoochee's  waters  flow, 
And  with  many  a  sun-lit  wave, 
Their  shores  of  shining  pebbles  lave  ; 
And  bright  the  golden  sun-light  shivers, 
On  this  pride  of  Georgia  rivers, 
And  skies  as  lovely  o'er  thee  bend 
As  o'er  Italia's  plains  extend. 
Encircled  by  thy  guardian  hills, 
Sure  thou  art  free  from  common  ills. 

0  !  blessings  on  thee,  valley  fair — 

On  woods,  and  rocks,  and  mountain  air \ 

1  feel  new  vigor  in  my  arm— 

The  tides  of  life  flow  swift  and  warm — 
The  radiance  of  an  earlier  day, 
Seems  shed  again  around  my  way, 
And  fragrance  of  the  primal  spring, 
These  highland  breezes  seem  to  bring. 

O  !  on  these  rocks  all  day  to  lie, 
And  watch  alternate  earth  and  sky — 
To  mark  the  varying  light  and  shade, 
By  nature's  ready  pencil  laid 


*  Nacoochee  signifies,  in  the  expressive  language  of  the  Indian,  "  The  Evening  Star.' 

58 


45  8  Nacoochee  and  its  Surroundings. 

On  mountain  cliff,  and  forest  nook — 
On  meadow  green  and  babbling  brook  ; 
And  when  the  twilight's  purple  haze, 
Should  shut  the  landscape  from  my  gaze, 
To  watch  the  stars  come,  one  by  one, 
'Till  each  its  glorious  place  has  won  : — 
Here,  on  the  earth,  yet  near  to  heaven, 
Unto  my  gaze  would  then  be  given, 
Sights  such  as  man  can  never  know, 
'Neath  human  roofs,  in  vallies  low. 
****** 
Here  mountain  wild-birds  sing  to  me, 
And  little  squirrels  fast  friends  be  ; 
Thus  nature  to  her  temples  wild, 
Still  welcomes  me  her  wandering  child. 
August  17,  184.9.  D.   H.   J. 

When  quite  a  lad,  I  accompanied  the  distinguished 
Carolina  statesman,  John  C.  Calhoun,  to  Yonah.  We 
stood  on  the  precipice,  which  was  nearly  a  thousand 
feet  in  perpendicular  height,  looked  down  into 
the  deep  yawning  abyss,  and  beyond  at  the  lovely 
vallies,  and  upwards  at  mountains  towering  one  above 
the  other  until  the  loftiest  was  lost  in  the  blue  sky. 
Mr.  Calhoun  stood  for  many  minutes  silently  gazing 
on  these  scenes  of  overwhelming  awe,  beauty  and 
magnificence.  I  have  visited  the  White  Mountains 
in  New  Hampshire,  the  Black  Mountains  in  North 
Carolina,  and  the  snow-capped  Alps  of  Switzerland ; 
for  softness  and  grandeur  of  beauty  the  views  from 
Yonah  surpass  them  all. 

The  highest  mountains  North  and  in  Europe,  are 
nearly  always  obscured  by  clouds  and  a  hazy  atmos- 
phere, while  the  views  from  Yonah  are  generally  clear 
and  bright. 


Nacoochee  and  its  Surroundings.  459 

On  our  return  to  Nacoochee  from  Yonah,  we 
pass  in  sight  of  the  old  home  of  the  late  Rev.  Jesse 
Richardson.  His  honored  son,  Rev.  John  L.  Rich- 
ardson, the  proprietor  of  the  celebrated  Richardson 
gold  mines,  lives  to  the  right  in  that  white  house  on 
Duke's  Creek.  Some  two  hundred  thousand  dollars 
worth  of  gold  has  been  dug  from  the  mines  of  Cap- 
tain Richardson. 

The  good  man's  heart  is  ever  open  to  charity,  he  is 
generous  to  a  fault,  and  is  more  concerned  about 
laying  up  treasure  in  heaven  than  upon  earth.  Since 
my  earliest  recollection,  John  L.  Richardson  has  been 
one  of  the  pillars  of  the  Nacoochee  Methodist  Church. 
The  old  gentleman  is  not  sectarian,  but  is  a  decided 
Methodist. 

That  small  cottage  at  the  foot  of  the  Sail's  Moun- 
tain, is  the  humble  school-house,  in  which,  Adeline 
Moffatt  patiently  taught  the  Nacoochee  juveniles  their 
a  b  c's.  I  had  the  good  fortune  of  being  one  of  her 
advanced  scholars,  and  was  in  a  fair  way  of  mastering 
the  "  single  rule  of  three"  and  getting  a  smattering 
of  grammar,  when  a  trading  inspiration  came  over  me, 
and,  in  my  seventeenth  year,  I  abandoned  the  school- 
house  for  the  counting  room.  From  that  day  to  this 
I  have  never  had  the  time  to  resume  my  studies  of 
grammar  and  mathematics.  Persons  who  have  been 
blessed  with  a  classical  education  cannot  appreciate 
too  highly  their  advantages.  Those  who  have  not 
been  so  favored,  keenly  feel  the  difficulties  under 
which  they  labor. 

College  education  is  but  the  ground  work  for  future 


460  NacoocJice  and  its  Surroundings. 

intellectual  attainments.  It  is  too  frequently  the  case 
with  young  men  to  imagine,  because  they  have  pass- 
ed through  a  course  of  studies  and  "  graduated,"  that 
their  education  is  complete.  They  may  possess  a 
well  proportioned  store-house,  but  it  requires  a  life- 
time of  study  to  fill  it  with  useful  knowledge.  I  am 
wandering  from  Miss  Moffatt's  little  school-house  into 
colleges. 

I  should  like,  exceedingly,  to  see  the  hills  and 
vallies  of  upper  Georgia,  dotted  with  school-houses 
and  filled  with  bright  children  under  the  instruction 
of  competent  teachers. 

But  enough,  G.  W.  W. 

Nacoochee,  1870. 


LETTER      NINE 


AN     EXCURSION    THROUGH    THE    VALLEY    TO    THE    HEAD 
WATERS    OF   THE   CHATTAHOOCHEE. 


It  was  a  bright  morning  in  August,  and  but  for  the 
refreshing  mountain  breezes,  the  sun  would  have  been 
uncomfortably  hot.  I  desired  to  show  some  friends 
the  combined  beauties  of  Nature  and  Art  in  these 


Georgia  wilds. 


We  enter  the  Unicoy  Turn  Pike  a  few  hundred 
yards  from  my  mountain  home.  That  house,  which 
stands  so  conspicuously  on  the  high  hill  to  the  right 


NacoocJice  and  its  Surroundings.  461 

as  you  go  up  the  valley,  is  the  situation  selected  by 
General  Rusk,  who  lived  there  for  many  years,  having 
married  a  daughter  of  Benjamin  Cleveland,  one  of  the 
earliest  settlers  of  this  region.  The  valley  and  moun- 
tain views  from  "  Rusk  Hill "  are  thought  to  be  the 
finest  in  Nacoochee. 

For  reasons  satisfactory  to  himself,  General  Rusk 
left  his  home  in  the  small  hours  of  the  night,  and 
some  years  later  turned  up  in  Texas. 

He  was  just  the  man  to  represent  that  people  in  the 
United  States  Senate. 

The  sheet  of  water  to  the  right  is  Lake  Nantahala 
(pretty  maid).  A  drive  of  half  a  mile,  and  we  reach 
Sautee  Creek.  The  ricketty  bridge  has  been  replaced 
by  a  substantial  new  one,  which  is  nicely  painted. 

Here  we  find  a  grist  mill,  saw  mill,  tannery,  and 
blacksmith  shop,  all  in  full  blast.  The  old  Confede- 
rate gun  factory  has  been  converted  into  a  workshop. 

It  was  in  this  building  Colonel  E.  P.  Williams 
turned  out  "  pikes  "  by  the  thousand  for  Governor 
Brown's  Georgia  Militia.  I  could  not  learn  of  these 
warlike  missiles  having  done  much  damage,  other 
than  giving  me  a  fright  when  the  Federal  soldiers 
took  possession  of  Charleston. 

My  brother  thought  the  Carolina  boys,  who  were 
pledged  to  "  die  in  the  ditch,"  ought  to  be  furnished 
with  Nacoochee  pikes. 

He  made  quite  a  shipment  to  Charleston.  Failing 
to  sell  them,  they  were  stored  at  No.  1  Hayne  street, 
and  were  found  there  by  a  Federal  officer  when  the 
city  fell.     I  had  to  give  the  best  excuse  I  could  for 


462  Nacoochee  and  its  Surroundings. 

the  appearance  of  such  warlike  destructibles  in  a 
grocery  establishment.  The  officer  sent  the  pikes 
North,  as  a  barbarous  relic  of  the  lost  cause.  I  am 
quite  sure  there  will  be  no  more  pikes  manufactured 
in  Nacoochee. 

The  Observatory,  that  you  see  on  the  pretty 
mound,  is  built  over  the  graves  of  the  Indian  maid, 
Nacoochee,  and  her  lover,  Sautee. 

A  drive  of  half  a  mile,  and  we  are  in  full  view  of 
the  beautiful  Valley  of  Sautee  and  Lynch's  Mountain. 
Those  neat  farmhouses  that  you  see,  are  occupied 
by  Mrs.  A.  G.  Williams,  Lucius  Lamar  Trotter,  and 
others.  That  house  on  the  hill,  as  you  proceed  up 
the  valley,  is  the  residence  of  my  brother,  Edwin  P. 
Williams ;  here  you  have  a  splendid  view  of  the  Val- 
leys of  Nacoochee  and  Sautee,  and  of  Yonah  and 
Tray  Mountains.  Mr.  W.  owns  a  large  body  of  val- 
uable grain  and  meadow  lands. 

He  suffered  terribly  by  the  war,  having  lost,  by 
emancipation,  nearly  one  hundred  negroes,  and  a 
large  amount  of  valuable  stock.  But  his  greatest  loss 
was  that  of  a  noble  son  in  Virginia.  The  cottages, 
on  the  opposite  side  of  the  Chattahoochee,  are  the 
homes  of  Edward  and  James  Williams,  sons  of  Charles 
L.  Williams. 

Three-fourths  of  a  mile,  and  we  pass  the  pretty 
new  home  of  Mr.  Joseph  Green,  son-in-law  of  C.  L. 
Williams. 

Near  by,  in  a  beautiful  grove,  is  the  neat  Methodist 
Church,  which  would  be  greatly  improved  by  a  coat 
of  fresh  paint ;  and  there,  too,  is  the  Nacoochee  Semi- 


Nacoochce  and  its  Surroundings.  463 

nary,  filled  with  the  little,  bright-eyed  mountain  girls 
and  boys,  under  the  careful  training  of  Miss  John- 
stone, of  Charleston. 

Almost  in  sight  of  the  church  is  the  family  man- 
sion of  my  father,  the  late  Major  Williams.  It  is  now 
the  home  of  Dr.  E.  F.  Starr,  who  married  my  young- 
est sister.  There  are  little  Stars  enough  there  to  il- 
luminate the  valley. 

From  this  point,  old  Yonah  presents  a  grand  ap- 
pearance. One-fourth  of  a  mile,  and  we  arrive  at  Na- 
coochee  proper,  the  home  of  my  eldest  brother, 
Charles  L.  Williams. 

Mr.  W.  has  been  merchandising  in  the  Valley 
nearly  half  a  century,  having  begun  trade  at  the  early 
age  of  twelve. 

Since  the  discovery  of  gold  here,  in  1828,  my 
brother  has  bought  more  of  that  precious  metal  than 
would  load  a  wagon  ! 

Not  far  from  the  mound  that  you  see  in  the  field, 
are  the  flour  and  grist  mill,  and  wool  factory  of  James 
Glenn,  Esq. 

A  drive  of  less  than  a  mile  from  C.  L.  W.'s,  and  we 
arrive  at  Captain  James  Nichols'.  This  was  once  the 
home  of  my  grandfather,  Brown,  and  is  said  to  be  one 
of  the  best  farms  in  the  Valley.  Captain  Nichols  is 
making  many  handsome  improvements ;  he  is  a  val- 
uable accession  to  Nacoochee  society.  In  sight  of 
Captain  N.'s,  we  cross  the  Chattahoochee,  and  now, 
for  nearly  a  mile,  the  Valley  is  shut  in  by  the  moun- 
tains, leaving  a  narrow  passage  for  the  river  and  road. 
The  scene  in  this  mountain  gorge  is  wild  and  grand. 


464  Nacoochee  and  its  Surroundings. 

The  high  hills  are  covered  with  magnificent  spruce 
and  white  pines.  The  rhododendrons  and  kalmias 
line  each  side  of  the  Chattahoochee. 

Again  the  Valley  widens,  and  we  are  in  sight  of 
H.  H.  Conley's.  Here  lives  my  honored  aunt,  who, 
notwithstanding  she  has  seen  her  three  score  years 
and  ten,  yet  she  is  as  active  and  bright  as  many  of 
the  girls  of  the  present  day.  The  avenue  of  pines 
leading  to  the  house  is  the  finest  in  America. 

This  portion  of  the  Valley  is  settled  by  the  Con- 
leys,  Deans,  Pitners,  and  Capps. 

We  now  follow  the  windings  of  the  Chattahoochee 
for  six  miles,  to  its  source,  through  the  wildest  of  the 
wilds  of  Georgia. 

A  wagon  road  has  been  hewn  out  of  the  sides  of 
the  mountains,  which  drop  down  almost  perpendicu- 
larly on  each  side  of  the  Chattahoochee.  We  pass 
through  groves  of  stately  forest  trees,  such  as  I  have 
not  seen  in  any  other  country. 

The  rhododendrons,  flaming  azalias,  and  kalmias 
abound,  and  illuminate  the  mountain  sides.  As  we 
ascended  the  mountain,  the  sparkling  waters  of  the 
Chattahoochee  came  rushing  and  foaming  over  the 
rocky  precipices,  forming  beautiful  cataracts  and 
cascades. 

We  are  on  the  summit  of  the  Blue  Ridge,  which  is 
the  great  natural  barrier  between  the  Eastern  and 
Western  waters. 

The  views  from  these  heights  are  grand  and  lovely. 
To  the  north  and  west,  mountains  lay  heaped  one 
above  another,  until  their  blue  summits  are  lost  in  the 


Nacoochee  and  its  Surroundings.  465 

distance.  Amid  all  this  world  of  mountains,  old 
Yonah  maintains  its  isolated  grandeur  and  dignity. 
It  has  charms  for  me  that  no  other  mountain  possesses. 

We  now  rest,  and  partake  of  a  lunch  under  the 
shade  of  an  immense  oak,  and  drink  from  a  cool, 
sparkling  spring,  the  head  waters  of  the  Chatta- 
hoochee. A  few  hundred  yards  from  us  is  a  small 
rivulet,  which  flows  west,  and  is  one  of  the  tributaries 
of  the  great  Mississippi. 

When  I  was  a  lad,  my  good  father  was  extensively 
engaged  in  stock-raising.  In  the  spring,  as  soon  as 
the  glittering  snow  disappeared  from  the  highest 
peaks  of  the  Alleghanies,  he  would  send  us  boys 
with  large  "  droves  "  of  horses,  mules,  and  cattle  to 
the  luxuriant  mountain  ranges  which  abound  here. 
Many  a  sleepless  night  have  I  passed  in  the  deep, 
dark  caves  of  the  Blue  Ridge,  in  consequence  of  the 
proximity  to  our  camp  of  the  Indian  hunters,  and 
often  that  of  a  more  dangerous  enemy,  the  fierce 
panthers,  or  troublesome  wolves  and  bears.  The 
panthers  or  wolves  seldom  attack  you  unless  they 
are  very  hungry.  Their  keen  sense  of  smell  will  de- 
tect fresh  meat  at  a  great  distance. 

One  of  our  party  had  killed  a  fine  buck,  a  portion 
of  which  was  hung  up  in  our  tent;  this  attracted  a 
couple  of  ferocious  panthers  and  a  number  of  wolves. 

The  panthers  stealthily  made  their  approach  by 
springing  upon  the  trees  some  distance  from  us,  they 
would  then  leap  as  far  as  possible  in  the  direction  of 
our  camp,  coming  nearer  and  nearer  until  we  could 
see  their  fiery  eyes. 
59 


466  Nacoochee  and  its  Surroundings. 

The  distant  howl  of  the  wolf,  gave  place  to  a  near 
and  quick  shrill  cry,  this  meant  action.  Our  fierce 
dogs,  which  we  had  relied  upon,  crouched  at  our  feet, 
and  were,  if  possible,  more  frightened  than  their  mas- 
ters, We  reserved  our  rifles  as  a  last  resort;  our 
situation  was  now  critical  in  the  extreme,  as  we  could 
not  tell  what  moment  the  hungry  creatures  would 
pounce  upon  us. 

In  this  dilemma,  my  uncle  (Maj.  Brown,)  threw  a 
stick  of  burning  wood  at  them,  which  fortunately  set 
the  dry  leaves  and  woods  on  fire,  and,  to  our  great 
relief,  frightened  away  the  horrid  creatures. 

There  are  at  this  time  but  few  panthers  in  the 
mountains,  these  are  to  be  found  in  the  dense  forest, 
not  much  frequented  by  man. 

The  wolves  and  bears  are  more  numerous,  and 
occasionally,  when  the  mountains  are  covered  with 
snow,  venture  into  Nacoochee  valley  in  search  of  food. 
The  Indians'  footprints  are  now  seldom  seen  in  their 
old  and  cherished  hunting  grounds. 

The  white  man  has  taken  from  them  their  homes, 
desecrated  their  graves,  and  have  driven  them  to  the 
far  West. 

I  saw  some  ten  thousand  of  these  poor  creatures 
who  had  been  hunted  down  by  the  United  States 
troops,  and  confined  in  pens  and  prisons  preparatory 
to  their  departure  for  their  new  homes  west  of  the 
Mississippi. 

It  was  a  sad  sight  to  see  these  people  driven  from 
the  sepulchres  of  their  ancestors,  and  the  temples  of 
their  gods,  which  they  clung  to  with  superstitious 
reverence. 


Nacoochce  audits  Surroundings.  467 

No  wonder  the  natives  did  not  become  Christians 
under  the  teachings  of  their  merciless  oppressors. 
They  were  treated  with  the  most  unchristian-like 
barbarity. 

The  Indians  were  driven  almost  to  desperation.  It 
is  not  strange  they  should  avenge  their  wrongs 
before  their  departure  from  Georgia.  A  worthy 
citizen  of  the  valley  was  shot  by  them  while  riding 
quietly  along  the  road  over  which  we  travelled  to-day. 
At  one  time  it  was  feared  there  would  be  a  general 
uprising  among  the  Cherokees,  and  bloody  work  was 
predicted. 

A  party  of  men  and  boys  took  advantage  of  the 
excitement,  to  run  several  bad  white  men  from  Nacoo- 
chee.  Although  quite  young,  I  was  eager  for  this 
adventure.  The  expedition  was  to  start  from  a  given 
point  in  the  valley. 

We  took  the  precaution  to  inform  my  father  and  the 
family  of  our  intentions. 

Having  dressed  in  the  regular  Indian  costume,  we 
started  on  a  very  perilous  undertaking.  We  raised 
the  war-whoop,  and  succeeded  in  running  a  number 
of  families  from  their  homes,  but  we  narrowly  escaped 
being  shot  by  a  party  of  whites  who  were  well 
armed. 

Returning,  a  little  after  midnight,  we  had  the  curi- 
osity to  ascertain  how  the  negroes  would  act  in  the 
event  of  an  outbreak  among  the  Indians. 

We  entered  the  cabins  and  in  a  short  time  there 
was  a  general  stampede.  Several  of  the  negro  men 
ran  to  my  father's  residence  screaming  at  the  top  of 


468  Nacoochee  and  its  Surroundings. 

their  voices,  that  the  Indians  were  murdering  them. 
They  rushed  into  the  house,  not  stopping  for  bolts  or 
locks. 

My  sisters  believed  us  to  be  true,  true  Indians,  and 
one  of  them  leaped  from  a  window  which  was  a 
considerable  height  from  the  ground,  and  came  near 
breaking  her  neck.  The  women  ran  to  the  smoke- 
house, and  offered  us  an  abundance  of  meat  and 
bread. 

It  required  some  time  to  convince  the  family  that 
we  were  not  Indians. 

Some  of  the  negroes  made  their  escape  and  spread 
the  news  far  and  wide,  that  Major  Williams  and  family 
were  murdered.  What  was  intended  by  us  as  a 
night's  innocent  amusement  turned  out  to  be  a  very 
serious  affair. 

From  that  day  to  this  I  have  had  no  inclination 
to  participate  in  a  mimic  Indian  war. 

I  now  propose  to  close  "  Nacoochee  and  its  Sur- 
roundings," by  inserting  a  beautiful  poem  by  Henry 
R.  Jackson,  Esq.: 

THE  VALE  OF  NACOOCHEE. 

Where  Yonah  lifts  his  bald  and  reverend  head 

The  humbler  Alleghany  peaks  above, 
Beneath  its  shadows  pleasantly  is  spread 

Nacoochee's  vale — sweet  as  a  dream  of  love. 

Cradle  of  Peace!   mild,  gentle  as  the  dove 
Whose  tender  accents  from  yon  woodlands  swell, 

Must  she  have  been  who  thus  has  interwove 
Her  name  with  thee,  and  thy  soft  holy  spell, 
And  all  of  peace  which  on  this  troubled  globe  may  dwell ! 


Nacoochee  and  its  Surroundings.  469 

Nacoochee — in  tradition,  thy  sweet  queen — 

Has  vanished  with  her  maidens  :  not  again 
Along  thy  meadows  shall  their  forms  be  seen  ; 

The  mountain  echoes  catch  no  more  the  strain 

Of  their  wild  Indian  lays  at  evening's  wane; 
No  more,  where  rustling  branches  intertwine, 

They  pluck  the  jesmine  flowers,  or  break  the  cane 
Beside  the  marshy  stream,  or  from  the  vine 
Shake  down,  in  purple  showers,  the  luscious  muscadine. 

Yet  round  thee  hangs  the  same  sweet  spirit  still ! 

Thou  art  among  these  hills  a  sacred  spot, 
As  if  shut  out  from  all  the  clouds  of  ill 

That  gloom  so  darkly  o'er  the  human  lot. 

On  thy  green  breast  the  world  I  quite  forgot — 
Its  stern  contentions — its  dark  grief  and  care — 

And  I  breathed  freer,  deeper,  and  blushed  not 
At  old  emotions,  long,  long  stifled  there, 

Which  sprang  once  more  to  life  in  thy  calm,  loving  air. 

I  saw  the  last  bright  gleam  of  sunset  play 

On  Yonah's  lofty  head  ;   all  quiet  grew 
Thy  bosom  which  beneath  the  shadows  lay 

Of  the  surrounding  mountains;   deeper  blue 

Fell  on  their  mighty  summits  ;   evening  threw 
Her  veil  o'er  all,  and  on  her  azure  brow 

A  bright  star  shone  ;    a  trusting  form  I  drew 
Yet  closer  to  my  side  ;  above,  below, 
Within,  were  peace  and  hope,  life  may  not  often  know  ! 

Thou  loveliest  of  earth's  valleys  !   fare  thee  well ! 

Nor  is  this  parting  pangless  to  my  soul. 
Youth,  hope  and  happiness  with  thee  shall  dwell, 

Unsullied  nature  hold  o'er  thee  control, 

And  years  still  leave  thee  beauteous  as  they  roll. 
Oh  !  I  could  linger  with  thee  !  yet  this  spell 

Must  break,  e'en  as  upon  my  heart  it  stole, 
And  found  a  weakness  there  I  may  not  tell — 
An  anxious  life,  a  troubled  future  claim  me  !  fare  thee  well  ! 


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